2011 Audi A8 - with black interior leather - an old blog of blue ink on the driver seat - I am thinking stain this old would be impossible to lift. Am I right?

2011 Audi A8 - with black interior leather - an old blog of blue ink on the driver seat -

Hi Roger,
I am interested in buying your leather kit but overwhelmed with all the different variants of your kit.
I just purchased a 2011 Audi A8 with black interior leather.
The leather is in ok condition and I want to improve and maintain it.
Please suggest a kit for it.
Also there is an old blog of blue ink on the driver seat.
I am thinking stain this old would be impossible to lift.
Am I right?

The attached pics are from the Internet as my car is at the shop.
The pic are of the same year and same model car.

#1
Attachment 2954


I got my car back and attaching pics for you to see.

You can see the ink blob in the last pic.

#2
Attachment 2955


#3
Attachment 2956


#4
Attachment 2957

>>> Also there is an old blog of blue ink on the driver seat. I am thinking stain this old would be impossible to lift. Am I right?

Old blue ink or dye on leather may take a longer time for it to suspend and have it “reverse transfer” to a stretchable paper towel. Prepare for a long dwell up to 72 hours with 24 hours inspection interval for the reverse transfer satisfaction. The paper towel can be lifted up from a corner for inspection and replace tightly back again.
Paper that becomes stain with the unknown ink may be replace with a fresh application. In most cases the first phase of using Prep-7.7 solves most problem. Plan B is to further remove the stain with Bleach-9.9 as booster to the Prep-7.7 in a formula ratio of Bleach-9.9 (1): Prep-7.7 (2): Hot-Water (2) for an 8 hour dwell for chemical reaction. When the stain are satisfactorily removed with Prep-7.7, the sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0. When Bleach-9.9 is used it first has to be pH balance with Acidifier-2.0 prior to Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0. It is recommended that you take pictures for reference for trouble shooting its effectiveness.


>>> The leather is in ok condition and I want to improve and maintain it.

There are the 2 levels of leather conditioning for this leather type. Softness and strength has to be maintain from below surface and since there is already a finishing that impede or obstruct the conditioner from entering it easily, the only approach is through the stitching rolls where the cross section is exposed. These exposures are also where the fatliquor evaporates and where the leather structure is exposed to non leather-safe solution that stiffens it and when flex cracks it. These stitching rows becomes the weakest part of the leather and has to be periodically hydrated and fatliquored with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system to keep it from cracking. A strong and soft leather will reveal a round stitching hole, a weak leather an elongated holes and stiff leather will result in cracks.

Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant conditioning or protection maintenance is to the surface, to impart a soft natural buttery-feel that keeps the nose level low when one slide in and out of the leather seat. Low noise translates to less friction rubs thus less wear to the leather with less creases and wrinkles. This protection care is easily done on a routine basis where the protector wears off instead of the finishes.


>>> I am interested in buying your leather kit but overwhelmed with all the different variants of your kit. Please suggest a kit for it.

See this Leather Doctor® Kit Ap7.di from: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ers/Categories


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]


Product Information
Attachment 3047
Leather Doctor® Kit Ap7.di, auto pigmented (perforated) leather dye and ink remover kit is an innovative concept of removing blue jeans dye and ink stains featuring a “reverse transfer” technique utilizing a paper towel over the dwelling Prep-7.7. Prep-7.7. It works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending the stains on dwell time and the paper towel reverse absorb the stain instantaneously from the leather. Prior failed attempt with set-in stains may require the help of Bleach-9.9 as booster to the Prep-7.7 to remove the residual stains. Clean sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8, rinsed with Rinse-3.0 and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 when Bleach-9.9 is cooperated. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fatliquor-5.0 rejuvenates the leather structure with softness and suppleness when dry. MicroTop-54D is an option for renewing the finish from friction wear. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe dye and ink stain removal system.

Instruction:

Testing with Prep-7.7
1. Cut out a piece of paper towel from the kit not bigger than our thumb size and soak it with Prep-7.7.
2. Test it on the worst stain area and inspect every 24 hours with fresh application until the stain is gone.
3. Observe if there is sign of stain removal, if it does, the stain will eventually be remove with repeat application.
4. To secure the test patch from dislodging wrapped it over with see through cling wrap.
5. When stain is removed with satisfaction, clean off the sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 until a
squeaky-feel.
6. The lack of a healthy squeaky feel may be the result of worn out topcoat, reapplication with MicroTop-54M is
recommended.
7. Apply a soak out paper towel with Acidifier-2.0 over the area until dry to strengthen the finish prior to topcoat application.
8. When test after 72 hours shows poor response, Bleach-9.9 may be used to boost the Prep-7.7.

Mixing Ratio (1: 2: 2)
1. A mixing ratio guide by weight is 1 part Bleach-9.9: 2 parts Prep-7.7: 2 parts Hot water.
2. From the mixing bottle, a small test portion Bleach-9.9 is first added into the bottle follow with Prep-7.7 adding and stirring
into a paste.
3. Hot water is dripped into the bottle using the pipette to activate the bleach and stirring into a creamy paste.

Testing with Bleach-9.9
1. Apply onto an inconspicuous or hidden area and leave it for a 12 hours inspection for discoloration.
2. Remove residue with damp wiping and cleaning sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0.
3. Cut out a paper towel, soak with Acidifier-2.0 and place on the test spot until naturally dry to neutralize the alkalinity.

Note
If testing with Bleach-9.9 bleach shows side effect, abandon and continue only with Prep-7.7.

Actual Application
Repeat testing successes to the actual application.


Instruction:

Preventive Care:
A non-stick, rub-resistant protection is recommended to be in place before putting the leather to daily use. Protector-B+ imparts a soft natural buttery-feel that enhances the leather luxuriously to the sense of touch. The non-stick surface shields the leather from sticky soiling thus prolonging the high level of appearance. Rub-resistant abilities reduces friction noises that translate into less friction wear as one slide in and out of auto seats effortlessly with less stress to the seat bolsters. This leather-scented protector diffuses a classic leather scent that boost the sensuous leather more appealing to the leather lover. This protection care commence at the end of each level of routine, periodic or restorative cleaning cycle. A simply spray and wipe prolongs the need for cleaning heavy soiling.
1. Apply Protector-B+ to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Routine Care:
Routine care includes procedures such as general dust cleaning, attending to spots and stains as required especially the neutralizing of swear stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. A routine non-stick rub resistant protection after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather interior in a more attractive and healthy state while preventing premature wear.
1. Spray Rinse-3.0, horsehair Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
2. Apply Protector-B+ to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Periodic Care:
Periodic care is recommend before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Driver’s seat would require more frequent attention than the other less frequent used seats. While the leather steering wheel and the gear shift knob get the most of body oil and sweat contacts.

1st phase – Periodic Care:
1. Spray Cleaner-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Towel extract until it shows clean.
3. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
4. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops, it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Besides, charging the protein fiber ionic positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the ionic negative fatliquor.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rises especially from exposed micro-crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. Leave the leather for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Wipe surface strays with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Apply Protector-B+ to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Restorative Care:
Restorative care is the ultimate corrective or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Restorative cleaning is performed by using Prep-7.7. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity facilitates coating the surface for effective dwell time. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas. For extreme cases, the Prep-7.7 can stay continuous for up to 72 hours to do its work safely.

1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1. Apply Prep-7.7 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3. Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat Prep-7.7 application with a longer dwell time as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure besides charging it ionic positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative ionic fatliquor.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rises especially from exposed micro-crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Surface strays are wipe with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Apply Protector-B+ to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gearshift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

>>> I really don't care about the blue ink blog as it is hardly visible. But I do want to maintain the current state and to remove 1 line or folding (not sure if I used the right wording). Please see the attached picture and advice me what to do.

Attachment 3197

To maintain the current state will need a corrective or restorative cleaning that will be done with Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system.

As this is a relative new finishing leather rejuvenating treatment is applicable to the stitching rows with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 and excess is clean up with Hydrator-3.3.

To relax the folding line will need the Hydrator-3.3 access to the thickness of the leather structure in order to relax it and however if not done sufficient or efficiently effort may be wasted – correction involve more work then preventive measures.

In preventive maintenance Protector-B+ will help reduce the build up of compression folding or crease or wrinkle lines. With a rub-resistant buttery feel, the effect is a noticeable reduces of friction noise when one slide in and out of the leather seat and this is done on a routine basis. This rub-resistant protection helps reduce wear to the finishes as well often seen in neglected leather seats.



Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]