Chanel brown CF lambskin leather restore

Hi Roger,

My Chanel lambskin bag has parts that are rough to the touch and matte (see circled spots in picture). I think they were caused by me using baby wipes to clean the bag and then used leather honey on it. The rest of the bag is shiny though. I tried to condition and buff these spots several times after but they haven't improved much. What can I do to restore these parts to their original condition?
Attachment 10672

Also to add, I do not wish to recolor the bag and I am looking to maintain its buttery soft texture.

>> My Chanel lambskin bag has parts that are rough to the touch and matte (see circled spots in picture).

Rough to the touch is evidence of finishing deteriorating, especially to the top coating which may be worn or due to abrasion. The solution is topcoat refinishing.
Matte also suggests that the original topcoat may be removed by cleaners and conditioners that are too high in their alkalinity that also could damage or remove the topcoat. The solution is also a topcoat refinishing.


>>> I think they were caused by me using baby wipes to clean the bag and then using leather honey on it.
Leather is an amphoteric material and alkalinity will severely damage the leather. A good test of the products used is to test on a raw wood, raw cotton or raw paper and if it turns brown, the products will also cause discoloration to the leather.


>>> The rest of the bag is shiny though. I tried to condition and buff these spots several times after but they haven't improved much.

Remember, there are conditioners that make the leather soft and strong, and this conditioner has to be absorbed into the leather, there are two types, mainly the stuffing oil that fills and block up the breathing pores and the fatliquor type that hydrogen-bond with the leather protein fibers and allows the leather to breathe.


>>> What can I do to restore these parts to their original condition?

I recommend an aniline topcoat refinishing Kit-A6.tc (the store is temporarily closed now for relocating to the Philippines)


>>> Also to add, I do not wish to recolor the bag and I am looking to maintain its buttery soft texture.

Redyeing is an option unless there is not sufficient dyestuff within the thickness of the leather to be activated with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


Attachment 10677
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Thank you for your response, Roger. Since I do not have access to the web store, would I need to clean off the leather honey/conditioner before I proceed to the topcoat refinishing? Also, would the top coat change the texture of the bag?

The corner of the bag is a bit rough to the touch. Is there something I can do to restore the buttery feel?

>>> Thank you for your response, Roger. Since I do not have access to the web store,

The www.leatherdoctor.com will reopen approximately 3 to 6 months time, it's a relocation to the
The Philippines.


>>>would I need to clean off the leather honey/conditioner before I proceed to the topcoat refinishing?

Yes, the leather honey/conditioner will need to be clean off and pH balanced, preferably with a leather eraser. Cleaning is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 (note the product suffix denotes the pH value). Remember, leather is an amphoteric protein material, and alkalinity will denature the leather. One sign of leather denaturing is tackiness, and using Acidifier-2.0 will pH balance the leather to a squeaky feel. Wet leather when it feels tacky, the leather denatures and will become stiffer when it dries. Fatliquoring follows after degreasing while the leather is still damp.


>>> Also, would the topcoat change the texture of the bag?

No, the topcoat does not change the texture of the leather. It is the thickness of the leather that lacks the fat and oil that change the leather suppleness into stiffness.


>>>The corner of the bag is a bit rough to the touch.

Roughness is the result of abrasion where the leather grains are abraded.


>>> Is there something I can do to restore the buttery feel?

Buttery-feel is the tactile feel experienced with the touch of our fingertips and is restored or enhanced with Protector-B+/B.

>>> No problem. I have responded to my thread. Please let me know if you need additional photos.

A photo is better than a thousand words!

So additional photos help.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> Thank you for your response, Roger. Since I do not have access to the web store,

The www.leatherdoctor.com will reopen approximately 3 to 6 months time, it's a relocation to the
The Philippines.


>>>would I need to clean off the leather honey/conditioner before I proceed to the topcoat refinishing?

Yes, the leather honey/conditioner will need to be clean off and pH balanced, preferably with a leather eraser. Cleaning is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 (note the product suffix denotes the pH value). Remember, leather is an amphoteric protein material, and alkalinity will denature the leather. One sign of leather denaturing is tackiness, and using Acidifier-2.0 will pH balance the leather to a squeaky feel. Wet leather when it feels tacky, the leather denatures and will become stiffer when it dries. Fatliquoring follows after degreasing while the leather is still damp.


>>> Also, would the topcoat change the texture of the bag?

No, the topcoat does not change the texture of the leather. It is the thickness of the leather that lacks the fat and oil that change the leather suppleness into stiffness.


>>>The corner of the bag is a bit rough to the touch.

Roughness is the result of abrasion where the leather grains are abraded.


>>> Is there something I can do to restore the buttery feel?

Buttery-feel is the tactile feel experienced with the touch of our fingertips and is restored or enhanced with Protector-B+/B.

---

Thank you, Roger. Is there any way that I can make my purchase sooner? I worry that the longer it sits, the harder it is for me to remove the leather honey/conditioner.

As for the process, is it Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > leather eraser > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > AnilineTop > Protector-B+/B?

Do I need to do the whole bag or can I just work on the front flap? As you can see, most of the problem is on the right side (see picture), where the leather feels a bit over-conditioned and looks more dull. There is a little bit on the left side, only visible under harsh light. The rest of the bag is fine.

Attachment 10685

>>> Is there any way that I can make my purchase sooner?

I have taken note of your request and will notify you once we are ready.


>>> I worry that the longer it sits, the harder it is for me to remove the leather honey/conditioner.

As for the process, is it Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > leather eraser > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > AnilineTop > Protector-B+/B?

In the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process, leatherEraser-4 and LeatherBrush-1 are used to brush and erase deteriorating finishes and surface conditioners, ideally to the grain of the leather (with loss of gloss to an evenly duller appearance).

The second process of Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 continues while the leather structure is still damp. Soaking the Hydrator-3.3 and letting it dwell for up to 72 hours helps to bring back the original dormant black dyestuff to the surface. To correct the alkaline pH value of the leather honey (pH above 7). Acidifier-2.0 is recommended to soak into the leather as well (the purpose is also to help control the browning effect due to the high pH value of unsafe leather cleaners and conditioners, such as leather honey).


>>> Do I need to do the whole bag or can I just work on the front flap?

I recommend that you soak up the entire bag without leaving any dry panel which will result in unwanted lines.


>>> As you can see, most of the problem is on the right side (see picture), where the leather feels a bit over-conditioned and looks duller.

Any cleaner and conditioner that has a pH value above 7 will make the leather lose its original blackness and turn browns. Dullness is due to the loss of a clear topcoat such as AnilineTop-76G.


>>> There is a little bit on the left side, only visible under harsh light. The rest of the bag is fine.
The entire bag should not have any brownish coloring, then it will be fine, however, sun fading browning is easier to rejuvenate back to its blackness. Browning that is caused by pH overexposure is more difficult as the leather structure will need to be pH balanced and the integrity of the leather with its constituents like the dyestuff may have been compromised. Remember, leather is an amphoteric material and has a pH value of about 3 to 5. Any alkaline cleaners and conditioners will shift the pH value of leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve). And all leather constituents including fatliquors are also ionic negative (-ve). Thus like-poles-repels (just like the behavior of magnets) and the leather fiber weaken ionic negative (-ve) strength breaks the hydrogen bonds with the ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the dyestuff and the fatliquors.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> Is there any way that I can make my purchase sooner?

I have taken note of your request and will notify you once we are ready.


>>> I worry that the longer it sits, the harder it is for me to remove the leather honey/conditioner.

As for the process, is it Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > leather eraser > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > AnilineTop > Protector-B+/B?

In the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process, leatherEraser-4 and LeatherBrush-1 are used to brush and erase deteriorating finishes and surface conditioners, ideally to the grain of the leather (with loss of gloss to an evenly duller appearance).

The second process of Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 continues while the leather structure is still damp. Soaking the Hydrator-3.3 and letting it dwell for up to 72 hours helps to bring back the original dormant black dyestuff to the surface. To correct the alkaline pH value of the leather honey (pH above 7). Acidifier-2.0 is recommended to soak into the leather as well (the purpose is also to help control the browning effect due to the high pH value of unsafe leather cleaners and conditioners, such as leather honey).


>>> Do I need to do the whole bag or can I just work on the front flap?

I recommend that you soak up the entire bag without leaving any dry panel which will result in unwanted lines.


>>> As you can see, most of the problem is on the right side (see picture), where the leather feels a bit over-conditioned and looks duller.

Any cleaner and conditioner that has a pH value above 7 will make the leather lose its original blackness and turn browns. Dullness is due to the loss of a clear topcoat such as AnilineTop-76G.


>>> There is a little bit on the left side, only visible under harsh light. The rest of the bag is fine.
The entire bag should not have any brownish coloring, then it will be fine, however, sun fading browning is easier to rejuvenate back to its blackness. Browning that is caused by pH overexposure is more difficult as the leather structure will need to be pH balanced and the integrity of the leather with its constituents like the dyestuff may have been compromised. Remember, leather is an amphoteric material and has a pH value of about 3 to 5. Any alkaline cleaners and conditioners will shift the pH value of leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve). And all leather constituents including fatliquors are also ionic negative (-ve). Thus like-poles-repels (just like the behavior of magnets) and the leather fiber weaken ionic negative (-ve) strength breaks the hydrogen bonds with the ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the dyestuff and the fatliquors.

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Thank you, Roger. I look forward to getting your notification.

When should leatherEraser-4 and LeatherBrush-1 be used in the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process in terms of step-wise?

When you are talking about soaking the leather in Acidifier-2.0, do you mean I have to use the Acidifier the second time (after the first process)? Wouldn't the Acidifier-2.0 in the first process neutralize the pH of the leather?

Would I need to use anything else to make sure the AnilineTop-76G bonds to the leather? Or can I use AnilineTop-76G right after the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process?

The bag is actually not black - it's a very dark brown. What you are seeing in the picture is its natural color and not browning from the sun. In fact, the leather honey may have darkened the patina a bit.

>>> When should leatherEraser-4 and LeatherBrush-1 be used in the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process in terms of step-wise?

Both leatherEraser-4 and LeatherBrush-1 are used for dry and wet soiling removal and in between each of the steps.


>>> When you are talking about soaking the leather in Acidifier-2.0, do you mean I have to use the Acidifier the second time (after the first process)?

The usage of Acidifier-2.0 depends on the severity of alkaline overexposure.


>>> Wouldn't the Acidifier-2.0 in the first process neutralize the pH of the leather?
The effect of pH neutralization with Acidifier-2.0 is the noticeable squeaky feel of the leather. A tacky or slimy feeling is when the leather shows evidence of denaturing.


>>> Would I need to use anything else to make sure the AnilineTop-76G bonds to the leather?

Adhesor-73 is the primer/sealer coating that is used to edge the leather with a fine white 3M pad of the LeatherEraser-4. The Adhesor-73 will also remove some of the deteriorating top coating/surface conditioners. The Adhesor-73 is applied when the leather is dry.


>>> Or can I use AnilineTop-76G right after the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process?

AnilineTop-76G is applied when the leather surface is dry.


>>> The bag is actually not black - it's a very dark brown. What you are seeing in the picture is its natural color and not browning from the sun. In fact, the leather honey may have darkened the patina a bit.

Good to check the original purchase to determine the color. I have yet to see a “brown” color Chanel handbag of this design. We can actually determine the color of the bag by Hydrator-3.3 releasing some of the dormant dyestuff transfer to a white tissue paper.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> When should leatherEraser-4 and LeatherBrush-1 be used in the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process in terms of step-wise?

Both leatherEraser-4 and LeatherBrush-1 are used for dry and wet soiling removal and in between each of the steps.


>>> When you are talking about soaking the leather in Acidifier-2.0, do you mean I have to use the Acidifier the second time (after the first process)?

The usage of Acidifier-2.0 depends on the severity of alkaline overexposure.


>>> Wouldn't the Acidifier-2.0 in the first process neutralize the pH of the leather?
The effect of pH neutralization with Acidifier-2.0 is the noticeable squeaky feel of the leather. A tacky or slimy feeling is when the leather shows evidence of denaturing.


>>> Would I need to use anything else to make sure the AnilineTop-76G bonds to the leather?

Adhesor-73 is the primer/sealer coating that is used to edge the leather with a fine white 3M pad of the LeatherEraser-4. The Adhesor-73 will also remove some of the deteriorating top coating/surface conditioners. The Adhesor-73 is applied when the leather is dry.


>>> Or can I use AnilineTop-76G right after the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process?

AnilineTop-76G is applied when the leather surface is dry.


>>> The bag is actually not black - it's a very dark brown. What you are seeing in the picture is its natural color and not browning from the sun. In fact, the leather honey may have darkened the patina a bit.

Good to check the original purchase to determine the color. I have yet to see a “brown” color Chanel handbag of this design. We can actually determine the color of the bag by Hydrator-3.3 releasing some of the dormant dyestuff transfer to a white tissue paper.

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Thanks for your reply, Roger. Your answers make sense. The bag has been authenticated and the interior and the inside the pockets are also of the same color, so I am certain that the bag is not black.

>>> The bag has been authenticated and the interior and the inside the pockets are also of the same color, so I am certain that the bag is not black. Also to add, I do not wish to recolor the bag . . .

Which colour shade do you wish to keep, the darker edge or the lighter centre?