Vintage Chanel Matelasse Bag - leather wrinkles and deflated quiltings!

Not long ago I've bought a vintage Chanel, which is approx 20 years old.
The majority of the leather looks good to me but some parts have a lot of wrinkles and I wanted to know if there's a way to remove them.
Even though this matelasse bag is supposed to have flatter quilts, some quilts look more deflated than the others.
I've attached pictures of the bag.
The back of it looks pretty good to me, there's nothing that bothers me.
It's just the sides and the front (lower part and upper part when the bag is open, there are a lot of creases).

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>>> I've looked through the threads on the forum but I still wanted to hear your opinion about it.

The quilts deflation is due to dryness of the leather of its original fatliquor (ionic negative -ve charged fat and oil). Fatliquoring it to about 15% moisture content when dry of Fatliquor-5.0 will relax the shrinkage and have the leather more plumps up. It is the ionic charged “fat” content that does the plumping.

The unnatural wrinkles also known as “coarse-break” are also due to dryness of its original fatliquor content from the new average of 15%. When leather is full of fatliquor flexing will produce fine-breaks when empty it will produce coarse-breaks instead. This is due to the diminishing “oil” content that unable for the millions of interlocking fibrils to slide over one another smoothly that causes these unnatural wrinkles. When those fibrils becomes over-stretch or broken, the wrinkles becomes quite permanents as it becomes weaker than the surrounding fibrils inter-locking connections. You may able to saves some much depends on the working and physical manipulation in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 first to satisfaction prior to topping up with Fatliquor-5.0.

Note:
1 - Body sweat contamination that contains traces of urea content also affect the leather fibers ionic charges. As the traces of sweat urea ferments it shift the ionic positive (+ve) amphoteric leather fiber ionic negative (-ve). Thus looses its ionic attraction with the leather ionic negative (-ve) constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor. In order to reverse and increase ionic attraction between the protein fibers and the fatliquor, the protein fiber has to be charged ionic positive (+ve) below the leather pH neutral (iso-electric point or pI) of 3 - 5 with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0).
2 - Body oils and grease is desirable to be removed as well so that during the fatliquoring process it does not contaminated the Fatliquor-5.0 and compromise its effectiveness.

My opinion to restore the leather structure is to remove foreign contamination prior to rejuvenating it. Thus the procedure should take this route:
1 - Degreasing:
Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3
2 - Leather Rejuvenating:
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 Hydrator-3.3

Note:
3 - Any cleaning process may reveal dye bleeding due to sweat overexposure, tackiness due to tanning agents loosing its ionic attraction. And since it is 20yrs old may also need color refinishing as well to improve its appearance as well with Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-B/B+ system.

4 - The health and life of leather structure depends on the fatliquor - "The lifeblood of leathers".
5 - Appearance will depends both on the fatliquor as well as compatible refinishing system - Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-B/B+

Let me know hat you think?

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

>>> Thanks for your instructions. So the products I need are
• Degreaser-2.2
• Acidifier-2.0
• Hydrator-3.3
• Fatliquor-5.0
• Aniline 76
• AnilineTop-76G
• Protector-B/B+
I'll order them as soon as possible and will contact you again when they arrive.

Have you seen this refinishing system Kit-A7.cl?
Attachment 7458
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a7-...finishing-kit/

or you may order individual products as refills.

If you like the classic leather scent - it is Protector-B+

>>> Do I need the Clean-3.8, Rinse-3.0, Adhesor-73, and Stripper-2.3?

Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 is also found in Kit-A3 - Aniline Leather Care Kit for general cleaning and rinsing.
Adhesor-73 and Stripper-2.3 is part of the refinishing system Kit-A7.cl.
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a3-...ther-care-kit/
Attachment 7459

The first step to leather restoration is corrective cleaning and leather rejuvenating found in the care Kit-A3. Finishes appearance may be improved to a like new appearance only with a fresh refinishing with Kit-A7.cl.

Instruction for Restorative Care is as follows:

Restorative Care:
This is the ultimate restorative or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Using Prep-4.4 performs restorative cleaning. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas by . . .
1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1- Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2- Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3- Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extracts until it shows clean.
4- Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extracts to a squeaky-clean.
5- Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
2nd phase – Hydrating:
Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Its surfactantcy helps check for surface tension of blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing.
1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate with an even appearance to soften up the leather.
2- Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes and towel extract wick up soiling until it shows clean.
3rd phase – Fatliquoring:
Fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1- Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2- Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3- The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4- Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.
4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Mist sprays Protector-B spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Take note these extra tips for the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 leather rejuvenating system . . .

Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 (250ml) http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/ - Hydrator-3.3 is a water-based pH3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is mainly used as a fatliquoring preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. The multi functional abilities include: A - Surface Tension Inspection: B - Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification: C - Structural Cleaning: D - Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification: E - Dye Fading Rectification: F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling: G - Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification: H - Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning: I - Leather Shrinkage Rectification: A - Surface Tension Inspection: Surface tension prevents liquid penetration and may result in undesired blotchiness with uneven absorption. Surface tension inspection is for even appearance of even absorption rate prior to Fatliquor-5.0 application. Instruction: A1 - The leather surface to be fatliquored is lightly mist spray with Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension prior to fatliquoring. It is then let to slow dry. A2 - Fatliquored surface residue sheen when dry if any, is driven into the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 in conjunction with appropriate brushes, converting milky residue if any to crystal clear. A3 - The crystal clear moisture is towel extracted until towel shows dry. A4 - When almost dry of up to 25% combine moisture content the leather is stake, stretch or massage to complete dry for desired suppleness. B - Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification: Leather stiffness is fibers structure that becomes stick together when leather commonly gets wet and in most cases fatliquor leaches out. Severe stiffness results when leather lost its fatliquor under heat over-exposure and should be handle with caution from cracking it. Leather creases are unnatural wrinkles resulting from the collapsing empty leather fiber structure due to diminishing fatliquor (fat and oil) content. To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils by manipulating away-unwanted stiffness and unnatural creases is as follows: Instruction: B1 - The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with Hydrator-3.3. B2 - The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. B3 - It is then manipulate by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction. B4 - With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with Hydrator-3.3, fatliquoring begins before the leather is completely dry. B5 - The fatliquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. B6 - The surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. B7 - Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. Best result is manipulating the leather structure to dryness for extra desired suppleness. C - Structural Cleaning: Structural cleaning is cleaning penetrated soiling or foreign contamination from below surface. This process includes the following steps: Instruction: C1 - The leather is hydrated with Hydrator-3.3, depends on severity up to 72hours dwelling is recommended to moves the soiling upwards. C2 - To maintain a consistent moisture level, the leather in question may be seal in container or plastic wrapping with periodic inspection to top up Hydrator-3.3. C3 - The suspended soiling is extracted by squeezing between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until towel shows clean. C4 - Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. C5 - Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. C6 - Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. C7 - Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. D - Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification: Common alkaline overexposure may be detected moist with tackiness or sliminess from the leaching or breaking of hydrogen bond between the leather protein fibers and the tanning agents. Bleeding detected with a white cotton towel is the result of the dyestuff breaking the hydrogen bond as well. Stiffness after leather was wet and dry again is the result of the fibers becoming stick together due to diminishing or leaching fatliquor, emptying out the leather structure. To rectify alkaline overexposure areas is by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas back to the affected areas. In severe cases Acidifier-2.0 is highly recommend in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 to effectively pH balance the leather structure back to its pH neutral (iso-electric point or pI). Note, average pH of chrome-tanned leather is from 3 - 5, and vegetable-tanned leather is about 1 point lower thus more pH sensitive. Procedure sequence for rectifying alkaline overexposure of bleeding, tackiness and stiffness is as follows: Instruction: D1 - Saturate Hydrator-3.3 into the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. D2 - Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area for up to 72hours with periodic inspection and topping up. D3 - Towel extraction test for dye bleeding, finger testing to detect and eliminate undesired tackiness or sliminess for a tactile squeaky feel and relax stiffness prior to fatliquoring. D4 - Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. D5 - Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. D6 - Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. D7 - Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. E - Dye Fading Rectification: Vat-dyed leathers or aniline dyed leathers is subject to sun fading. However, the dormant dyestuff may be activated to refresh the surface with Hydrator-3.3. It will depend on richness of the dormant dyestuff and the dwell time for the hydrator to release the excess dyestuff to resurface, and result may vary from quality of original dyeing process. This is done with sufficient hydration and dwell time up to 72hours. The common practice is as follows: Instruction: E1 - The thickness of the leather is saturated or hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. E2 - It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let to dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface. E3 - The plastic covering is removed and let to natural dry to observe color improvement. E4 - With color refreshing satisfaction, the leather is lightly wet back with Hydrator-3.3 again to relax its structure prior to fatliquoring. E5 - Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. E6 - Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. E7 - Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. E8 - Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling: Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating Hydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice the following steps are adopted . . . Instruction: F1 - The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. F2 - It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates. F3 - The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is spray wet with Hydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less then 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking. F4 - Towel-T5 is peel off when crispy dry and surface residue erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquoring. F5 - Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. F6 - Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. F7 - Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. F8 - Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. G - Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification: Leather is an amphoteric material or pH sensitive to the protein fibers. Alkalinity will shift the leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve), while the other common leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor are non-amphoteric and remains ionic negative (-ve). Thus like a magnet “like poles repels”, the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber and the leather denatures or revert to rawhide. Breaking of hydrogen bonds between the protein fibers and its constituents often manifest as tackiness, bleeding and stiffness when leather gets wet and dry again. Charging of the leather protein fibers ionic positive (+ve) has to go below its pH neutral (iso-electric point or pI) of pH 3 - 5. Thus in extreme cases Acidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 accelerate the ionic positive (+ve) charging processes to restore the pH chemistry integrity of the leather. In practice the following steps are observed . . . Instruction: G1 - The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. G2 - It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for chemical reaction to take place. G3 - The plastic wrapping is removed and lightly spray with Hydrator-3.3 to even out the surface and inspect for any unwanted tackiness or bleeding. G4 - Acidifier-2.0 treatment may be necessary for tackiness or bleeding control. Healthy leather that is stabilized, pH balanced and ionic positive (+ve) charged should feels squeaky instead with reduced bleeding. With satisfaction to restore the leather pH chemistry integrity, fatliquoring continues. G5 - Fatliquoring begins and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. G6 - Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. G7 - Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. G8 - Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. H - Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning: Fatliquor with its fat and oil content is essential for leather suppleness from cracking, it is meant for its structure, any surface remnants may alter its original surface luster and attracts soiling. Removing fatliquor surface residue is by brushing with appropriate brushes while spraying with Hydrator-3.3 turning the milky residue to crystal clear. When almost dry the leather is stack or massaged to dry for extra suppleness. The sequence of steps is as follows . . . Instruction: H1 - Likely mist Hydrator-3.3 on surface remnants and it will turn milky. H2 - Brush to drive the milky residue into the leather structure. H3 - Extract until towel shows dry. H4 - Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. I - Leather Shrinkage Rectification: Leather shrinkage is often experience when leather is water damaged in conjunction with fast heat drying from the sun or other heat sources. Another common dry shrinkage is from intense heat of the sun or fireplace. Heat evaporates the fatliquor (fat and oil); the leather fibers shrunk, become stick together and result in stiffness. Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leathers and with deficiency the leather stiffens up and easily leads to cracking. Rectification is as follows: Instruction:I1 - The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with Hydrator-3.3. I2 - The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. I3 - When fully hydrated and relaxed it is then manipulate by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing the shrinkage to satisfaction. I4 - With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with Hydrator-3.3, fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0 begins before the leather is completely dry. I5 - The fatliquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. I6 - The surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. I7 - Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0 (250ml) http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/ - Fatliquor-5.0 is an anionic negative (-ve) charged micro emulsion of fat, oil and water for rejuvenating all leather types. It is typically used in conjunction after Hydrator-3.3 relaxing and opening up the fibrous leather structure. It softens the leather when dry with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when ionic attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor: The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after an universal tannery fatliquoring process may varies up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates. In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fatliquor content. In every bottle of Fatliquor-5.0 by weight content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface. Instruction: 1- Warm-up and shake well to a full emulsion for better penetration. 2- Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation. 3- Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated. 4- Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3. 5- Allow leather to natural drying for extra softness. 6- Suppleness of leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with Hydrator-3.3. Caution: Insufficient fatliquoring (fat and oil) content may suffer cracking from staking, massaging or flexing. Tips: 1- When crispy dry, prior surface contaminations/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface. 2- Remove soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede. 3- Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance.