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The leather is very dry and feels like dusty.
The corner is very worn and the bottom is scrub.
I want to make it soft again and to dye the whole bag.
So the colour will be even, then put a coating on top, not shiny, just like the normal coating for lambskin...
#1
Attachment 3688
#2
Attachment 3689
#3
Attachment 3690
For a complete repair to the corner, leather rejuvenating to restore puffiness, skin repairs to smoothness and color refinishing you will need the following products system. I will go into the sequence of each phase when you are ready to proceed.
1: Bond-3D
2: Bond-7A
3: Kit A7.cl (aniline coating “transparent” black)
Attachment 3697
Leather Doctor Leather Bond-3D (30ml)
Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Pigment-64, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A.
Attachment 3698
Leather Doctor Leather Bond-7A (30ml)
Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-7A is a bond smoothening aid and excess clean up after Bond-3D. This is a soft nitrocellulose lacquer emulsion bonding aid to level and remove excess Bond-3D from leather surface safely without the need for sanding.
Attachment 3699
Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system. Please email [email protected] for custom matching services or choice of color: Antique-Brown, Black, Yellow, Orange, Red, Red-Brown, Rubine, Blue or Dark-Brown. And choice of topcoat luster: Gloss or Satin. This kit comes with reduced weight option to save on shipping thus the 250ml concentrate ratio such as Acidifier-2.0, Rinse-3.0, Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 has to be cut or filled up with distilled water prior to use.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for your information.
My question for the black one is...
So first I apply the Bond 3D in the damage corner?
Do I need clean the whole surface first?
Like using a wet cloth?
Then I apply Bond 7A after Bond 3D is dry, right?
1 bottle of Bond 7A is it enough?
When Bond 7A is dry, I apply the aniline coating “transparent” black.
Do I need to use anything else in the kit?
When everything is done, the coating is very shiny?
Or like a matt shiny?
And will the leather become hard?
>>> So first I apply the Bond 3D in the damage corner?
Do I need clean the whole surface first?
Like using a wet cloth?
When having a leather rejuvenating and refinishing in mind, a preparation cleaning have to be first in the sequence of processing phases as follows:
1: Preparation Cleaning:
Use Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 for surface cleaning and Hydrator-3.3 to further moves suspended soiling particulates from the leather structure to the surface to be towel extracted while wet until towel shows clean and Eraser-4 work-out to removes dried surface residue. Other classes of stains including odors are removed or decontaminated accordingly from the Aniline Leather Problem Guide as reference.
2: Leather Rejuvenating:
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system – This phase is to replenished original fatliquor that has dried that gives what you describe as “the leather is very dry and feels like dusty” and “I want to make it soft again”. You may want to plumps the leather up as it’s quilting looks shrunk and flat as the leather fatliquor has diminished drastically.
3: Repairs:
Bond-3D > Donor Fiber > Bond-7A - When the leather structure is all plumps up accordingly with satisfaction, repairs commence. Any opening without the lost of fiber should be easily put back to place with a little overlap when lightly stretched with sufficient fatliquor replenishing. Missing fibers is then rebuilt with donor fiber and Bond-3D.
4: Surface Worn or Abrasion Repairs:
Adhesor-73 – This process works back the smoothness of the skin and a smooth spatula helps. Sanding with 2000grit in between drying ensures a smooth skin surface to utmost satisfaction.
5: Color Refinishing:
Aniline-76 – “I apply the aniline coating “transparent” black. This process evens out the appearance to satisfaction. “So the colour will be even” – Anilne-76 is specially design to coats the leather surface unlike other staining dyestuff like Aniline-21 may produce a blotchy appearance. This Aniline-76 ensures an even appearance.
6: Topcoat Sealing:
AnilineTop-21G – This topcoat seals the color coating from bleeding or color rubbing-off or crocking. It will also decide the luster level. 21G the gloss version, 21S is the satin version.
“then put a coating on top, not shiny, just like the normal coating for lambskin...” – Luster level builds up as each coating will increase the gloss level. Inspection will ensure not overdoing it; otherwise they are stripped with Stripper-2.3. Luster level is also adjusted with the satin version of AnilneTop-21S.
7: Protection:
Protector-B+ a rub-resistant protector imparts a buttery-feel and reduces the surface wear to the leather with a classic leather scent to charm.
#Attachment 3702
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
>>> Thanks Roger,
For example, in the first step is "Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0". is that mean I use the first one, then wait it dry then the second one, and wait it dry again for the third one? or I do it immediately after one by one?
This is the WET phase and "do it immediately after one by one?" is correct!
After inspection when dry - other stain, soiling or odor removal is still the wet phase including Hydrator-3.3, it ends at Fatliquor-5.0 - the end of the wet phase.
Stain