Aniline Wax Pull-up - My semi-aniline sofa journey - need help!

Ok, here is the story:

I wanted a leather couch to love, my hubby and I didn't want to pay top dollar for new. We set out to find a lovely leather sofa on CL. After about a month of searching, we purchased a Flexsteel sofa made in 2000, that needed some TLC, but was in OK shape, for $200 ($100 for couch + $100 gas/etc.). It was light tan, and the cushions were very stained. Picture #1 shows the worst cushion.

Picture #1
Attachment 859

After cleaning with numerous different types of homemade cleaning solutions, as well as store-bought products, we made a little bit of progress. My preferred form of cleaning is first "hydrating" (I used a hydrating cream from leatherworldtech.com) the cushion to get it nice a squishy. Once "hydrated" and still damp, I washed the cushion down with an acidic solution (I made one with water and white vinegar) and let it soak in a bit. Then I used a teaspoon to gently scrape out the grossness that accumulated within the cushion. What came out was the hydrating cream plus dirt and oil. It basically looked like a gray paste. I repeated this "hydrating"/scraping process until the paste I got out of the cushion was white!

The cushions still had dark staining. See Picture #2.

Picture #2
Attachment 860

This is about the time I found this website! I read about staking leather to lighten the color and make it more supple. So, I used the end of a bobby-pin to do micro-stretching. (You can see the area on the right panel in the cushion in Picture #2 that had been stretched, but not re-hydrated.) My hubby and I stretched the dickens out of these, but still the darkness was still there. See Picture #3.

Picture #3
Attachment 861

After doing the best we could with every cushion, and not wanting to spend any more money on this project (by this time we had spent another $150 in cleaning products), we decided to just dye the couch darker without fully removing all the staining. Pictures #4 & #5 show the sofa to the point before we dyed it.

Picture #4
Attachment 862

Picture #5
Attachment 863

Since I can only attach 5 pictures per post, I will continue with another post!

Continuing...

Picture #6
Attachment 864

Picture #7
Attachment 865

Picture #8
Attachment 866

Picture #9
Attachment 867

We then dyed the sofa using leatherworldtech.com aniline dye. This was the easiest part of the whole process. Basically, we just wiped it on in thin coats until we achieved our desired color.

Picture #10 shows the finished result.

Picture #10
Attachment 868

Okay, so at this point my husband and I were so proud of our work! We moved the couch inside and started using it. I emailed Roger to show him my progress, and he advised me that a topcoat would be necessary to lock in the dye so it wouldn't transfer to our clothing. I did a wet wipe test and got very little dye-transfer.

We began to use and love our awesome new leather couch! I did have plans to hydrate, fatliquor, and topcoat the couch soon after, but never did it.

Fast forward 8 months: the couch looks HORRIBLE! We have 2 dogs. One big (90 lbs) and one medium (35 lbs) that love to sit on, sleep on, stand on, climb on, catapult themselves off of, and generally abuse our couch. It sits by the front window (which has wooden blinds, usually mostly closed), so it serves as a pivotal roosting point and command post for the two. We also have 2 boys, who do all the same things the dogs do! Also, our 3 year old wet the bed one night and my hubby let him sleep on the couch after getting him cleaned up. He proceeded to go back to sleep and pee on the couch. Needless to say, I was not happy. :)

Also, since the leather wasn't really hydrated (notice I used quotations around that word in my previous post), or if it was, it got dried out due to the lack of a protective topcoat. Pictures #11 - #15 show the current condition of my beloved couch. It is very sad.

Picture #11
Attachment 869

Picture #12
Attachment 870

Picture #13
Attachment 871

Picture #14
Attachment 872

Picture #15
Attachment 873

You can see very clearly, in Picture #13, the pee stain.

So, knowing that I'd done my poor couch wrong, I FINALLY ordered products from Roger! I viewed some other threads to see how to use the Hydrator3.3.

From what I understood, I was supposed to spray the cushions with Hydrator3.3, wrap, and let dwell overnight, and then apply FatLiquor after 24 hours. Also, I decided to wrap the inside of the cushion with cling-wrap, too, to conserve the product, and prevent any yuck from getting on the batting.

Well, I started spraying Hydrator3.3 on the first cushion (the pee cushion), and it soaked right in! It was dry to the touch, but cold, so I wrapped it in cling-wrap. I wasn't sure if I did things exactly right, so I checked the forum again. I read a thread, that I can't find right now, that talked about saturating the leather, so it looked wet, even on the reverse side. I had used 1/3 of the bottle of Hydrator3.3 by this point, and wrapping up the cushion was kind of hard, so I decided to start on a new cushion. This way, I can compare results, too. Pictures #15 - #18 show the first cushion all wrapped up. I took them with and without flash because I felt the representation of the color of the cushions was a bit off.

Picture #15
Attachment 874

Picture #16
Attachment 875

Picture #17
Attachment 876

Picture #18
Attachment 877

So, now to the second cushion. I took the cover off the cushion so I could see if it was going all the way through. I used the remainder of the bottle on this cover, spraying both sides of the leather. I put a trash bag on both sides of the leather, and then wrapped it in another trash bag so it was as air-tight as possible.

I didn't take a picture of this, but will take pictures of the cushions tonight, after getting a response from Roger on what to do now.

So, my questions are, was I really supposed to fully saturate the cushion? Do I apply the FatLiquor directly after the Hydrator3.3? And how soon after that can I apply the TopCoat?

Thanks for your help!

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Picture #13 the urine stain.

How do you want to deal with this problem?
Among all leather stains – urine stain is the most destructive to the chemistry integrity of the leather. Yours is a very mild case, from a small boy and only once; the least you could do is to remove the soiling particulates by the Hydrator-3.3 process. This is done by heavy saturation the spots and laying absorbent tissue over it to allows the soiling particulate to be trap as it wick through the tissue extension of the leather surface.

The functions of the Hydrator-3.3 are multipurpose, especially dealing with the structure of the leather and understanding the why and how, helps dealing with the task at hand.


You have to determine why you want to hydrate the leather – removing suspended soiling from within the thickness of the leather to the surface will require a full saturation through its thickness, you may refer to more information below. To soften the thickness of the leather is one example for a full hydration. Surface mist hydration is for checking “surface interfacial tension” to avoid blotchiness for subsequent application.

Assuming all the contamination is removed accordingly, (refer to the Aniline Problem solving guide below) hydrating is the last step of the wet soiling removing process. Soiling removal process is done with towel extraction; indirect gentle towel extraction is done by rubbing, scudding or staking a smooth spatula or other object like a spoon over the towel.

Fatliquor replenishing is done when the leather is fully hydrated so that the fatliquor could be easily redistributed once penetrated among the relaxed and separated leather fibrils. When each fibril is lubricated, the fibers will slight over one another smoothly when dry to prevent the leather from cracking.

Topcoat is water-based as well; however, it is best done when the leather is fully dry for at least a full day (See info on Topcoat below). Note that topcoat will lock in all the beauty of the leather and all the ugliness of stains, as both will be enhanced and magnified. The decision is yours, as it is not easy to remove the topcoat to reach the buried stains if any.

If you love this Flexsteel which I respect it “like a Mercedes of Sofa” I would want to do it right and keep it for life – it is already one of America’s very best of leather furnishing.

I restore much such “Flexsteel” leather furniture through the years so I know the quality and appreciate them.

You should check out the brand new price, and the potential you can put it right near to its original value. All your trouble will be very worth it, by the thousands and not hundreds of dollars you have saved.

Non-stick, rub-resistant protection will prolong the leather finish (colorcoat and topcoat) from wearing off too soon.

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Leather-Safe Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide-A9

Urine
Urine is a waste discharge from human or animal, besides the typical coloration it has the uric acid and the ammonium salt to deal with. When deposited urine attracts the natural bacteria from the atmosphere and starts to ferments, a putrid odor will develop from the protein component of the urine and ammonia odor will develop from the ammonium salt. When ammonia odor is detected, the pH of the contamination would have shifted above 10. Such high pH above the neutral average 3 to 5 of leather causes the leather protein fiber to shift ionic negative (-ve); that causes the leather to repels its other ionic negative (-ve) constituents like the tanning agent, fatliquor and dyestuff. Animals especially cats have the tendency to deposit on the same spot. The heat on the old deposit tends to leach out the tanning agents that manifest as darkening stain, while the leach out fatliquor appears as whitish powdery residue. In such severe situation, quite often the leather turns slimy and may show signs of damages. The best approach is to treat it with a low pH acidic ammonia neutralizer, to help dissolve the urine salt and slow down the bacteria activities. Such acidic treatment will help neutralize the ammonia alkalinity; simultaneous ionic charges the leather protein fiber positive to stabilize the leather chemistry, and retards bacteria activity from off gassing putrid odors. Remaining protein components are removed by using a leather protein stain remover follows with a second acidic treatment to neutralize the alkalinity once again for the sake of the leather chemistry stability. Another approach is by treating the area with culture bacteria; with the logic that the cultural bacteria will consume the food source in the urine thus eliminate the source of the putrid odors. Base on this logic, the sensitive cultural bacteria narrow pH range of neutral to alkaline has to be maintained; besides keeping them in a sufficiently moist and conducive warm environment; time of 1 to 2 days has to be set aside for it to work on. Controlling and maintaining these favorable conditions for the culture bacteria to stay alive seems a daunting task before we can see tangible results for severe problems; but may be feasible for mild situation. Thereafter the ammonia problem is to be further deal with by using an ammonia neutralizer as mentioned above, to complete the decontamination process. Leather rejuvenation follows with hydrating, first to remove suspended soiling within the leather structure follows with fatliquor replenishing to softening the leather with suppleness and strength when dry.

Leather Rejuvenator – Hydrating Conditioner
A leather safe hydrator has a pH range from 3 to 4, it is an acidic surfactantcy solution that is design to harmonize with the neutral pH of leather with a multipurpose functionality, such as:
• Hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers to separates the crushed, stick together fibrils and relaxes them in the inter-fibrillary leather structure for effective distribution of subsequent fatliquor.
• Facilitating colloidal water movement within the leather structure during the wicking process to move soiling particulates to the surface.
• Reactivating the dormant dyestuff to resurface thus reducing the contrast between the color coat and the leather crust.
• Reducing the interfacial tension as a preconditioner to eliminate blotchiness on subsequent application especially on absorbent leathers.
• Charging the leather protein fibers ionic positive below its iso-electric point to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative charged fatliquor.
• Checking surface cleanliness, since molecular layers of oil can prevent adhesion of subsequent coating.
• Facilitating better finish penetration during refinishing thus providing good surface properties, especially the uniformity of surface dyeing during aniline refinishing.
When use as a surface interfacial tension inspection purpose; a very light mist-spray suffices, to check for evenness of absorption to avoid blotchiness for subsequent application like fatliquor replenishing or dyestuff refinishing. When used as a leather structure rejuvenator, a complete plumping of the leather structure is highly recommended to realize its full potential. A check with thumb and finger with a little moisture oozing out would be the optimum level of hydration. When this level of moisture is reached, the damp leather is recommended to be sealed off with plastic cling wrapper to control evaporation. Dwelling while fully hydrated for up to 72 hours will deliver the result desired when the leather is further treated for optimum physical appearance.

Leather Rejuvenator – Fatliquor Conditioner
Fatliquor is a concoction of oil and related fatty substance derives from animal, vegetable and mineral sources; formulated as a stable emulsion that resembles the look of fresh milk in a bottle. The objective of fatliquor is for lubricating the leather fibrils like millions of interlocking miniature chains of hinges for flexibility and softness. Preconditioning the leather prior to accepting fatliquor topping-up has its share of contribution in many ways, in terms of appearance, without the blotchiness. The stiffness of leather if any, needs to be relaxed for an effectively distribution of the fatliquor. Leather fiber pH chemistry stability charge need be strengthen ionic positive (+ve), to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative (-ve) charge of the fatliquor. All these benefits from preconditioning the leather derive from the dwelling power of an acidic leather safe hydrator. It is a process of penetrating and distributing which lubricates the fibrils so that after drying they will be capable of sliding over one another smoothly. In addition to regulating its stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, the fatliquor contributes greatly to its rip tensile strength. Thus, helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.

Topcoat
Most smooth leather will come to a stage that develops topcoat damages as being part of its useful life cycle. Topcoat damages may vary from leather types and it may manifest as stickiness, common to bicast leather from perspiration contamination; scaly flakes to aniline leathers through ageing and streaks from alkaline overexposure are a common occurrence to pigmented leathers. The objective of the topcoat is to impart a film forming coating that provides abrasion and stain resistance to the colorcoat. Some forms discontinuous film especially from nitrocellulose that allows greater transpiration to take place. Others will sooner develop micro crazing especially the finer aniline topcoat, while the micro-pigmented leather may take a longer time. When topcoat is cross-linked, its performances increase. A wide variety of topcoats is available, with both ingredient and formulation varied to suite the requirement of the leather usage; not only in terms of luster level like gloss, satin or matte; but also in terms of flexibility and breathability, etc. Ingredient used includes elastomeric, acrylic, nitrocellulose, urethane, etc. Without this topcoat, the color basecoat would be: a) poor in aesthetics such as appearance and feel; b) susceptible to sticking together or attracting loose dust and dye especially in hot humid condition; c) poor physical properties such as wet rub, sweat resistant and scuff resistant; d) poor in ageing properties such as soil resistant and wet cleaning resistant.

Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Conditioner - Leather Scented Buttery-Feel Protection
The buttery-feel feature of surface conditioner is design for the majority of smooth aniline and pigmented leathers; including the oil pull-up. The additional leather scent component is for enhancing the leather with the olfactory satisfaction associated with leather. Buttery-feel surface conditioner is a non-stick, rub-resistant protector that is non-film forming for imparting a breathable barrier essential for leather transpiration. The breathable barrier is essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling; including impeding the functionality of the ballpoint to dispense its nasty ink. Moreover, the non-stick surface helps to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains, if it happens obliviously, especially on light colored leathers; the stain is easier to remove without the need of resorting to unnecessary color refinishing. The surface conditioner natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. In addition, the buttery-feel reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather is rubbed against during movement or friction that wears the leather finishes caused by getting in and out of auto vehicle.

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The red lines indicate where the creases are, these lines becomes the weaker location of the leather that flex more that the surrounding areas. Eventually these crease lines will starts to crack. To share the load of flexing and compressing to these lines, the surrounding leather areas have to be softened up.
This reducing of the creases is done when the leather is fully hydrated and relaxed to be stretch crosswise. The control dwelling can be left up to 72 hours for easier manipulating of the creases to go away.

While getting it all evenly stretched, fatliquor can be applied to hold the position, it is the fat and oil component of the fatliquor that hold up the leather tauter while the water contents evaporates and leave breathing space essential for transpiration.

OK! I'm planning on finishing my couch Dec 24th - Dec 28th, and I want to make sure I have enough of everything.

I need some more hydrator. Is there anything else I can use in lieu of it? I had used an acidic solution of lemon juice and filtered water, as well as white vinegar and water - but the pH for those concoctions are unpredictable, and I'm worried about the "food" part of those leaving residue. All I have used is the hydrator, and with completely soaking the cushion area, I used a whole small bottle. So, I'd definitely need more of that. I'm not sure if I will do further extraction, or just go over again with dye.

I now have four or so rips that need repair. The leather is very thin in some places, what is your recommendation? I have an 80 pound pit bull that likes to sleep on the couch, so I would like the leather to not soak up any of her oils and scents, what's your recommendation for that?

I need some more hydrator. Is there anything else I can use in lieu of it? I had used an acidic solution of lemon juice and filtered water, as well as white vinegar and water - but the pH for those concoctions are unpredictable, and I'm worried about the "food" part of those leaving residue. All I have used is the hydrator, and with completely soaking the cushion area, I used a whole small bottle. So, I'd definitely need more of that.

The Hydrator-3.3 besides its pH value of 3.3 (the leather-safe side of the solution) has a “surface active agent” component that is the working element of this product to relax the leather fibers. Hydrator-3.3 is a precondition for the Fatliquor-5.5 and these two products works together. When leather is hydrated and stretch of creases and wrinkles, fat and oil is replenished so that when dry they hold the leather structure, lubricates it for suppleness and strength. Suggest you purchase in concentrates to be cut with distilled water at ratio 1: 25. Fatliquor-5.0 concentrates is at ratio 1: 5.



I'm not sure if I will do further extraction, or just go over again with dye.

During hydration, penetrated suspended soiling will continue to wick to the surface and towel extraction helps remove them. By checking the towel will determine if extraction should stop. Further hydration is then concentrated on stretching the leather of un-natural creases and wrinkles in conjunction with fatliquor replenishing until the leather is saturated. When moisture evaporates, subsequent fatliquor is continuous applied until saturation (that is the leather does not absorb any more). A fully saturated leather with fatliquor thus is less prone to liquid stain.


I now have four or so rips that need repair. The leather is very thin in some places, what is your recommendation?

Rips repairs with no missing leather will just require Leather Bond-3D with Patch-4S you see in pictures below.



I have an 80 pound pit bull that likes to sleep on the couch, so I would like the leather to not soak up any of her oils and scents, what's your recommendation for that?

You would require a heavy-duty topcoat by adding 5 to 10 % of Crosslinker-25. See product below.

Super Cleaner-4.9 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 would be the recommended system products to remove the greasy soiling on a routine basis, otherwise when the stain is penetrated you would require the help of Degreaser-3.3 > Rinse-3.0 system.

Protector-B+ will help to mask with the classic leather scent, besides imparting a non-stick rub-resistant properties to the leather to prolong the wear to the topcoat.

Please email me for the products that interest you.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

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Leather Repairer (5):
Leather Impregnator,
Leather Bond,
Leather Bonding Aid,
Leather Stucco &
Leather Patch.

Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26
It’s a Leather Surface Repairer for Pigmented and Aniline leather types.
This is a protein compact resin blend compound impregnator.
It’s for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks.
It’s to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process.
It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 0.5.
Thus a quart makes 1.5 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 120ml, and 250ml and in Quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (1.5 quarts).
Email [email protected] for prices.
Note:
For color skin repairs add colors accordingly up to ratio 1: 1.
Instruction:
1] Shake well, pad to saturate all weak and absorbent areas.
2] Concentrate on weak areas otherwise wipe off unnecessary excess to reduce buildup.

Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-3D
It’s for leather structure bonding repairs.
This is an aqueous medium soft polyurethane leather bond that will not lift the leather finishes unlike other solvent based glue.
This product is available in 7gm and 30gm.
Email [email protected] for prices.
Note:
Colors and dyes can be added for aesthetic repairs
Instruction:.
1] Test for darkening effect when dry prior to repair.
2] Use leather Patch-4S as sub-patch to bond.
3] Use leather Bond-7A to smoothen repairs without the need to sanding.

Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-7A
It’s for bond smoothening aid and excess clean up.
This is a soft nitrocellulose lacquer emulsion bonding aid.
It’s to level and remove excess leather bond from leather surface safely without the need for sanding.
This product is available in 7gm and 30gm.
Email [email protected] for prices.
Instruction:
1] Let dwell, work and remove excess bond with Leather Spatula-6.
2] Wipe off and follows with damp towel to remove unwanted sheen before it dries.

Leather Doctor® Leather Stucco-90
It’s for leather filling repairs or in conjunction with leather Bond-3D colors and dyes.
This is aqueous high concentrated compact resin blend leather stucco.
This product is available in 5gm and 40gm.
Email [email protected] for prices.
Instruction:
1] For added strength and flexibility on high stress areas blend with leather Bond-3D.
2] Impregnator-26, Adhesor-73 or Pigment Standard-64 can be blended for ease of application or to produce desired repair result.
3] Apply to prep cleaned surface for better anchorage.
4] Clean up surrounding areas immediately with damp towel and let dry.
5] Refill as necessary and let 4 – 8 hours curing time.
6] Fine sanding as necessary prior to leather Impregnator-26 to reduce porosity with added strength.

Leather Doctor® Leather Patch-4S
It’s for used as a sub-patch or as a surface skin repair.
This is 0.4mm thick vegetable tanned full-grain leather.
This product is available in 1” x 4” and 6” x 4”.
Email [email protected] for prices.
Instruction:
1] Apply bond to the suede side when used as a sub-patch.
2] Apply bond to the grain side when used as an insert skin repair.

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Aniline Leather Transparent Dyeing System (12):
Topcoat:
Gloss.

Leather Doctor® Aniline Dye-21
Leather Doctor® Aniline Dye-21 is a transparent dyestuff that’s for staining absorbent naked aniline leather that includes the nappy nubuck and suede. Dyestuff is for staining the leather protein fibers and not the topcoat unless it can be easily penetrates through like pure aniline leathers, otherwise to coat over existing standard gloss aniline leathers an auxiliary adhesion promoter using Adhesor-73 is recommended.
This is a new generation aqueous transparent staining aniline dyestuff that is more lively and brilliant than most liquid dyes.
It’s to provide a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes.
For coating aniline leathers that has existing topcoating; add up to 30% Adhesor-73 to even out appearance.
Standard colors available in Black-115, Orange-157, Red-180, Red-Brown-159, Yellow-128, Dark-Brown-124, Rubine-113 and Blue-119.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 8.
Thus a 120ml makes 1.14 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 250ml and in quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in 120ml (1.14), 250ml (2.37) and quart (9 quarts).
Email [email protected] for prices.
Instruction:
1] Prep clean - use Prep-4.4 follows by Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] When prep clean using Degreaser-2.2 either rinse with Acidifier-2.0 for bleeding control or with standard Rinse-3.0.
3] Inspection when dry – use leather Eraser-4 to remove wick-up soiling particulates.
4] Shake well before application.
5] For adhesion surface coating - add 10 to 30% Adhesor-73 (less is more natural).
6] Airbrush to even out the color avoiding streaks or drips.
7] Blow dry in-between coats until desired result is achieved.
8] Leather rejuvenation – use Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
9] Topcoat protection to match original luster - use Aniline Topcoat-89N(natural), Aniline Topcoat-59M (waxy matte) or Aniline Topcoat-79G (gloss).

Aniline Topcoat
It is these topcoats that decide its desired luster of gloss, matte or natural for restoring the original finish. Without this topcoat, the dyeing would be: a) poor in aesthetics such as bronzing hue and tactile sensation; b) susceptible to crocking when dry and bleeding when wet: c) poor physical properties such as wet rub, sweat resistant and scuff resistant; d) poor in ageing properties such as soil resistant and wet cleaning resistant. Note: Pure Aniline use Topcoat-89N with matching Protection-S+; Waxed Aniline use Topcoat-59M with matching Protection-W+; and Standard Aniline used Topcoat-79G with matching Protection-B+.

Leather Doctor® Aniline Topcoat-79G
It’s a gloss finish for upholstery Aniline leathers.
This is an aqueous fine particular size urethane resin emulsion topcoat.
It’s to protect aniline dyestuff with excellent toughness and flexibility.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 1.
Thus a quart makes 2 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 250ml and in quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (2 quarts).
Email [email protected] for prices.
Instruction:
1] Apply after Aniline Dye-21;
1.a] otherwise prep clean - use Prep-4.4 follows with Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0;
1.b] or degrease and rejuvenate after this sequece - Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0
2] Pad or fine spray without streaks or drips.
3] Non-Stick, Rub-Resistance buttery-feel protection with a classic leather scent - use Protection-B+ (leather Scent-B).

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Leather Dyeing & Coloring Auxiliary (3):
Leather Adhesion Promoter,
Leather Topcoat Crosslinker &
Leather Color Flow Controller.

Leather Doctor® Crosslinker-25
It’s an auxiliary for refinishing topcoats to improve adhesion properties and increase top coat film strength.
This is a high solid, polyaziridine crosslinker, without the VOC (volatile organic compound).
It's super-concentrated and when incorporating 3 to 10% to the topcoat it will significantly boost adhesion.
By creating a tougher film that also ties up some of the hydrophilic elements.
This product is available in 60ml.
Email [email protected] for prices.
Instruction:
1] Mix and stir simultaneously.
2] Use topcoat within 8 hours.

OK!

I have done the first round of fatliquoring on the cushions, and I like my results. But, I have a few questions.

First, here are some pictures of the hydrating and fatliquoring process...

Picture #19: Before any work
Attachment 1000

Picture #20: During Hydrating (saturation)
Attachment 1001

Picture #21: Covered with plastic
Attachment 1002

I ended up actually covering the cushions with tissue under the plastic, but did not take a picture.

Picture #22: After overnight dwell
Attachment 1003

Picture #23: Used Dry brush to remove particulates
Attachment 1004

Picture #24: After fatliquoring, dwell 5 hours
Attachment 1005

Picture #25: Close up
Attachment 1006

Picture #26: Thumb Print
Attachment 1007

Picture #27: Area "rubbed-out" print
Attachment 1008


So, you have seen my progress. I have not done the rips repairs yet, or the topcoat. I have used a 1 1/2 bottles of fatliquor on 3 cushions. (Only one shown here.)

The cushions are still pretty rough to the touch, not crispy, but just bumpy. Do I need to do more fatliquor? Absorption is slow now, and the leather feels sturdier.

But I have a concern: You can see that when I press my thumb into cushion, it causes the grains to separate and show the lighter fibers underneath. I can rub the area to smooth out the indentation, but you can still see the lighter fibers showing through. This is the same thing that happened after I finished the dying. It looked really nice... until you sit on it!

The leather was "loose" and relaxed in some areas, and I was hoping the fatliquor would tighten them up. It did appear to tighten them, as I hoped. But, when I pressed on the cushion, it was relaxing again!

How can I correct this? Will applying the topcoat fix it? I don't want to go through all the trouble of doing the topcoat only to have to undo it, to fix it again!

I have read in other posts that you sand to get the desired finish of the leather. However, I'm hesitant to do that, because the leather is very thin in these areas (that's why they are ripped in places).

Please advise, thanks!

But I have a concern: You can see that when I press my thumb into cushion, it causes the grains to separate and show the lighter fibers underneath. I can rub the area to smooth out the indentation, but you can still see the lighter fibers showing through. This is the same thing that happened after I finished the dying. It looked really nice... until you sit on it!


You may be describing the characteristic of an “Aniline Wax Pull-up leather”.

We need to re identify the original leather type.
Fine a hidden unused spot and try to pull or stretch it, if lightens, then probably yours is “Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers.

Please show good pictures to help you determine the leather types.

You may consider reviving the characteristic with additional dyeing with penetrating Aniline Dye-21 follows with Wax Effect-8.6

Here is some info about Pull-up leathers.

Aniline - pull-up wax (A.w)
These are aniline dyed leathers, which have a secondary wax effect infused into the leather structure that gives its characteristic when the leather is pull, stretch or scuff lightens up. Brown colored Bicast leather is typically a close imitation of this high-end aniline type leather. The amount of wax effect also determines the intensity of the color and as it ages or dries up, the color is lightened. The cleaning procedure is similar to (A) only with additional of the wax effect replenishing after the fatliquor process.
The draggy-feel protector is recommended to match this wax pull-up as it heals scuff and the lightening effect during routine care, besides imparting a non-stick surface and rub-resistance features against surface wear. The characteristic shine is maintain by the wax effect application that when it penetrates the surface it also leaves a cloudy residue of fine wax crystalline and when activated with hair dryer coats the surface with a natural waxy shine. On high wear location, an aniline gloss topcoat may be due to restore the desired original sheen luster of the leather.


See this Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers problem solving guide.

See worn and over-stretch procedures. . .

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Aw.jpg
Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.w) – Aniline Wax Pull-up Leathers

Roger Koh
[email protected]

System products for Aniline Wax Pull-up are found in this Kit Aw6.dr, Impregnator-26 is an optional add-on.

[CENTER]http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/KitAw6dr.jpg
Leather Doctor® Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather – Color Refinisher & Degreaser – Kit Aw6.dr

Ok, I will try to do so today, and post pictures of results.

This is our only couch, can we sit on it (maybe covered?) while we're waiting for products to arrive? Or will this undo the progress I've made?

By all means you can sit on it as long as it is dry.


Show pictures of contrast, how the original should look, just turn over the middle cushion and take pictures that show both used and unused.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

Hi Roger,

I didn't have time last night to snap some photos, but I did manage to take a quick one of the original swatch. Does this help?

Attachment 1009

Thanks!

Please take a good picture of the label, please!

In addition, take also other tag that describes the leather type, if any.

I have looked at the label - it does not say anything about wax pull-up, just anline. I am getting back to finishing the couch again, as I am tired of it looking so bad!

I have also pulled the original swatch, and it, too, lightens as it's pulled.

I may want to re-dye as well. Can you suggest a color?

Thanks.

The original swatch is positively an Aniline Wax Pull-up.

So thus your test confirms it.

Before suggesting a color the non-compatible dyestuff have to be stripped with Stripper-2.3.

Aniline dyestuffs are transparent so a darker stain if any may show through.

Alternative is to have a darker shade to camouflage unsightly stains.

Bear in mind that Aniline Wax Effect colors is derived from a combination of Anine-21, Fatliquor-5.0 and Wax Effect-8.6.

Here are the instructions:



Instruction:

Stripping Existing Topcoat
1. Cover and tape off frames and trims.
2. Mist sprays Stripper-2.3, Eraser-4 scrub and towel extract to the entire section for an even appearance.

Degreasing
1. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use.
2. Transfer to Eraser-4, agitate to saturate the stain, feather out to the entire section and let dwell 10 to 30 minutes.
3. Towel extracts suspended soiling before it dries until it shows clean.
4. Spray Acidifier-2.0, towel extract until it shows clean to a healthy squeak.

Hydrating
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 saturating the stain area and feather out for an even appearance.
2. Covering the stain with tissue paper without airspace allows wick up soiling particulates to be trapped by the paper instead of remaining on the leather surface as it dries.
3. Check for satisfaction when dry with Eraser-4 of wick up soiling prior to dyestuff refinishing.

Dry Prep
1. Erase wick-up residue with Eraser-4.


Redyeing
1. Apply Aniline-21 with airbrushing to produce professional result by controlling even dispersion over the surface.
2. Light mist spray is preferred and let dry in between coats to observed color build up effect.

Fat and Oil Replenishing
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
2. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
3. Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
4. Allow natural drying for extra softness.

Wax Effect Rejuvenating
1. Shake well, spray Wax Effect-8.6, spread evenly with brush or towel and leave natural dry until wax crystal forms on the surface to be heat activated with heat blower or hair dryer to a glossy sheen.

Adhesion Promotion
1. Brush applies Adhesor-73 to promote adhesion of the topcoat over the wax.

Topcoat Refinishing
1. Shake the product well and apply by airbrushing for professional result.
2. Use lint free paper towel to even out drips and streaks.
3. Speed dries between coats with help of hair dryer.
4. 2000-grit sanding may applies to improve touch and appearance.
Note:
When tackiness is experience after drying a 10% Crosslinker-25 is recommended to be added into the AnilineTop-21G for reapplication.

Rub-Resistant Protection
1. Mist sprays Protector-D+ redistribute with a paper towel and ready for use when dry.