Started on the driver seat last year after receiving my kit from Leather Doctor. Had to put it aside for other things and hope to get back to it soon. The going proved rough last year. Going to start with the outside lower bolster as it's the worst - very hard, nearly smooth from in and out, and much dark.
Following picture was somewhere in the initial go:
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...x/IMG_0138.jpg
From picture, it looks like the soiling from the creases has to go prior to the next phase of leather rejuvenating the leather hardness to suppleness.
So for Restorative Cleaning follow the instruction in maroon as the first phase and show the result before going further.
■ Auto Pigmented Leather - Restorative Care:
This is the ultimate restorative or salvage cleaning system that removes accumulated soiling including the unwanted conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. This restorative cleaning is achieved by the chemical reaction of the Prep-7.7 to effectively break down those tough soiling with its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity allows it to coats the surface allowing effective dwell time, thus providing the opportunity for the prep to fully emulsify or suspend stubborn soiling. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas, sufficient to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas.
Instructions
If alkaline or all purpose cleaners were used before, it’s recommended to wet finger test for tackiness by using distilled/tap water. If it is, neutralize the side effect of alkaline overexposure with Acidifier-2.0 found in Kit AP3.ts to return the leather to a healthy squeaky feel prior to Prep-7.7 application. It is recommended that dry soil removal takes place prior to prep application.
1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1] Apply Prep-7.7 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2] Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
4] Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean.
5] Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
2nd phase - Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro-crazing develops, it’s the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again, have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together, resulting in stiffness and when stressed, may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure; besides charging it positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative fatliquor.
1] Spray Hydrator-3.3, control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2] Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather effectively.
3rd phase - Fatliquor Replenishing:
Restorative fatliquor replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability. Fatliquor diminishes as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rises especially through exposed micro-crazing, perforation and stitching rows. It also diminishes through leaching when leather becomes wet and dry again especially when exposed to non leather-safe solution. So if leather protein fibrous structure can be hydrated, it can be fatliquor replenished to the desired suppleness with increased strength; thus preventing leathers from cracking commonly beginning from these weak areas.
1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4] Strays on the leather surface are further driven into these absorbent stitching rows or perforated section until crystal clear with a squeaky feel.
4th phase - Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
This rub resistant protection helps reduce friction wear; that also imparts a non-stick natural buttery/draggy-feel against sticky soiling; with an unforgettable classic leather scent.
1] Apply Protection-B+ (Leather Scent-B) to the seats and Protection-D+ (Scent-D) to steering wheel and gear shift knob after shaking well, spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Here's the copy from the Autopia forum...
Not sure what the original color was supposed to be but started going at the seats in my new old Jag with my Leather Doctor Kit. Got ahead of myself and didn't test for color-fastness and did the whole drivers seat (a little). Here's pictures...
#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...rSeat__139.jpg
#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...rSeat__138.jpg
#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...arSeat_137.jpg
1. Kept going with the center of the seat/ top panel to see how it would turn out.
Am I takin away color - how do I tell - if I am what to do next?
If (as I hope) I'm just taking off 17 years worth of grime - any tips on how to make it easier?
#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...arSeat_195.jpg
Here is the section I'm starting with this time. It's the worst but easiest for me to reach with my back out. I've had the Leather Doctor Prep-7.7 on it since this afternoon and will let is sit till tomorrow.
When it’s dry you may continue to reapply to stay moist and this dwelling can continued up to 72 hours before you clean off the remaining sticky residue using the horsehair Brush-1 with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0. No dwelling necessary for the cleaning and rinsing.
Alternative method is to use cling wrapper to cover it to control evaporation, keeping the surface constantly moist and similarly be left to dwell up to 72 hours, before cleaning and rinsing.
Let’s see some pictures when completely dry; we should see all the grooves, creases and wrinkles free of the 17 years of unwanted accumulations.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Thanks for the help Roger. Here is a picture of cling wrap on it...
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...x/IMG_0196.jpg
Hard getting it totally wrinkle free but it seems to keep it from evaporating too quickly. The temps here have been around 80*F. It may just be my imagination but it already feels less slick and softer.
How long has the Prep-7.7 being dwelling from this picture?
What kind of time frame you have in mind for removing the sticky residue thereafter?
The finishes must have cracked to cause the darkening effect (we can talk about such repairs with impregnator and leather bonds after fatliquor replenishing to rejuvenate the leather for suppleness with softness and strength).
Any darkening effect should be even out with cleaning and rinsing to achieve an even appearance.
We will see the drying result after rinsing for a close inspection of imbedded soiling removal to decide the next move from there.
It is a good practice to just work on this bolster to see what the end result before even messing up the rest.
I believe if you intend to repair those cracks, you may end up with a color refinishing project in hand.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
The picture was taken the morning after I started in the afternoon. Doing the math - approx 3pm to 8 am - 17 hours. I've been keeping is as moist as possible in the interim - much easier with the cling wrap.
Some progress shots:
After my 68 hour-ish dwell of Prep-7.7 I started on the seat bolster.
Seems to be cleaning nice but things began pealing up.
Is this the topcoat?
It does feel rather plastic-like.
A great bit of it came off in a strip as you can see in picture #2.
Not too worried about since it seemed to be failing anyway and I think I've seen that I can put new back on.
Going to continue unless you tell me to stop!
#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...gress_3201.jpg
#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...gress_3207.jpg
#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ress_32072.jpg
#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...gress_3222.jpg
Well after searching and searching I've discovered that the material isn't top coat and after being told it is possibly vinyl (ambla) I am now sure it is leather. The leading suggestion is that it is a previous poorly-done repair for the cracking in the leather. The Leather is Connolly brand which is not top coated and is vat-dyed. Does the vat dyeing effect the way we move on after it is cleaned and as I repair?
The leading suggestion is that it is a previous poorly-done repair for the cracking in the leather.
It may be a wrong prognosis believing that the leather was crack with darken crease lines; which is actually not as shown when the poor refinishing was partially removed.
Does the vat dyeing effect the way we move on after it is cleaned and as I repair?
A telltale sign for vat dyed leathers is fading and bleeding which is not apparent at all; so too early to conclude; just have the unwanted poorly unnecessary repairs removed first.