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Hello! I am looking for advice on giving life back into my Wax pull up sofa from restoration hardware. I bought the Kit-Aw3, but I may need more products to bring it to a higher level of restoration.
Here is a link to the photo album (with chair and sofa) https://imgur.com/a/DetactB
Please let me know how to go about this.
Thank you Doctor
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>>> I bought the Kit-Aw3, but I may need more products to bring it to a higher level of restoration.
Picture #10 shows the hidden unused condition and would be your desired result for the entire couch.
However different location will need special attention, to even out the difference,
Example-1
Picture #5 seating cushion is over-stretched and the leather thins with diminishing Fatliquor-5.0 and Effectax-8.6 to plumps it up (to decrease horizontal dimension and increase vertical dimension of the structural). This special attention is accomplished with extra Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > EffectWax-8.6 process.
Example-2
Picture #4 & #6 body oil, grease and sweat contamination will need Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process with need help of LeatherEraser-4 to remove repeated resurface soiling off the leather surface. This area will then appear lighter in appearance due to alkalinity damages (displacement of dyestuff, fatliquor and effectWax).
Example-3
Picture #8 Surface light cracking is where the original AnilineTop-76G gloss topcoat is worn off. And the surface original gloss appearance is accomplished with Fatliquor-5.0 > EffectWax-8.6 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-W/W+
>>> I may need more products to bring it to a higher level of restoration.
To bring it to a higher level of restoration will need Kit-Aw6.tc
Attachment 9687
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw6...finishing-kit/
Here is the instruction for Restorative Care with Kit-Aw3.
Restorative Care:
Restorative care is the ultimate corrective or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Restorative cleaning is performed by Prep-4.4. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity facilitates coating the surface for effective dwell time. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes, especially on heavily used areas. For extreme cases, the Prep-4.4 can stay continuous for up to 72 hours to do its work safely including ‘reverse transferring’ of unwanted dye stains from new blue jeans, newsprints and ballpoint ink.
Instruction . . .
1st step - Restorative Cleaning:
1- Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2- Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3- Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
4- Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
5- Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat Prep-4.4 with Towel-T5 for a ‘reverse transfer for dyestuff stains, application with a longer dwell time as necessary and check for reverse transfer satisfaction.
6- Proceed with Hydrator-3.3 after Rinse-3.0 and satisfied inspection.
2nd step – Hydrating:
Hydrating is essential to relax unnatural creases and wrinkles. Leather shrunk and becomes stiff when the structural fibers become stick together as the fatliquor diminishes through aging or under heat over-exposure or under influence of alkaline solution. They are stretched crosswise when the leather is plump. Plumping the stiff leathers may take up to 72hrs under evaporation control. Besides, its pH value of 3.3 helps charge the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to increase the hydrogen bonding attraction between the ionic negative (-ve) fatliquor at the molecular level.
Instruction . . .
1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with a foam brush to hydrate deep into the leather thickness.
2- Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes to break surface tension, depending on severity of dryness, with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time up to 72hrs, to plumps the leather more effectively for ease of cross stretching unnatural creases and wrinkles.
3rd step – Fatliquoring:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed micro crazing and stitching rows. Periodic fatliquor (ionic negative (-ve) charged emulsion of natural fat and oil) replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus increase leather tensile strength with softness and added intensifying color richness.
Instruction . . .
1- Spray Fatliquor-5.0 after shaking in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2- Repeat application while still damp about 25% moisture content remaining in between drying until saturated again.
3- Leave the leather for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4- Wipe surface strays with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.
4th step – Wax Effect Rejuvenating:
EffectWax-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen.
Instruction . . .
1- Shake well, spray and brush EffectWax-8.6 with sufficient penetration or saturation for an even appearance and let dry naturally.
2- When fine wax crystalline forms within 8 hours or until it appear, it is thereby activated with a heat blower or hot hair dryer to convert into a natural characteristic gloss.
5th step – Top Coating (optional):
AnilineTop76G is applied accordingly to achieved or match the desired gloss level.
Instruction . . .
1- Shake well and apply with bristle or foam brush with the lightest touch to reduce streaking.
2- Complete dry between each coating with the help of dryer and using a new brush will reduce streaking as well.
6th step – Protection:
Instruction . . .
1- When dry, apply Protector-D after shaking well, towel spread and is ready for use when dry.
Attachment 9688
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]
Hello Doctor,
I followed your instructions. I completed the sofa right now and have a few imperfections needing attention. The chair will be completed once I get my hands on the other kit.
For hydration I saturated then plastic wrap covered for 6 hours, fatliqour covered for 12 hours, hydration covered for a few hours, finally fatliqour not covered.
After that, the microcracking was still apparent. I then applied the wax and protection to keep it from progressing.
The microcracking became apparent after trying to remove the blue paint with acetone then wiping the area with water. (which after spending time on this forum I learned, that was a very bad mistake...)
What is the solution to the microcracking? Longer hydration?
Also I was not able to remove the white stain and blue paint mark with prep. Is a reverse extraction up for a few days needed?
Here are the photos in question plus the final result. I am very pleased with the results.
Any suggestions is much appreciated. Thank you very much!
Attachment 9669Attachment 9670Attachment 9671Attachment 9672Attachment 9673Attachment 9674Attachment 9675Attachment 9676Attachment 9677Attachment 9678
See this Aniline Wax Pull-up - Leather Problem Solving Matrix
Attachment 9683
>>> What is the solution to the microcracking? Longer hydration?
A longer Hydrator-3.3 dwell will relax the tightening tension, opening up the interfibrillar spaces within the leather structure to allow a free excess of the Fatliquor-5.0 to hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber giving added strength and suppleness. These microcracking areas need to massage out so that the leather will produce a “fine-break” instead of a “coarse-break” you see as creases. Cracking is broken fiber and it is too late that might use Impregnator-26 to strengthen it physically within the leather structure.
>>> Also I was not able to remove the white stain and blue paint mark with prep. Is a reverse extraction up for a few days needed?
The white stain need to be positively be identified, if it is solvent based stain such as the blue paint mark will need “Stripper-2.3”. It has a pH of 2.3 to reduce dye bleeding, but will still dries the leather of its original fatliquor. After removing it with a leather spatula or a bamboo skewers will need immediate Hydrator-3.3 > Faliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system to replenish the fat and oil content. EffectWax-8.6 is also highly recommended to restore its pull-up effect. Further lost or damaged topcoat will need to be restored with AnilineTop-76G.
Attachment 9685
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/stripper-2-3/
>>> Dark spot, is that moisture or need degreasing?
Dark spot is first stretch or pull to lighten it, if it is there for a long time, it is not moisture but some oil, grease or sweat content that need to be degreased and pH balance with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system
Attachment 9686
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/degreaser-2-2/
Attachment 9684
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
To avoid ruining the surface coating should I apply hydrator 3.3 and impregnator-26 from the reverse side?
Also if I wanted to add anilinetop 76g should I use rinse 3.0 or clean 3.8 to remove protector D?
Thank you for the response.
>>> To avoid ruining the surface coating should I apply hydrator 3.3 and impregnator-26 from the reverse side?
Yes! Working from the back into the structure is the best approach.
>>> Also if I wanted to add anilinetop 76g should I use rinse 3.0 or clean 3.8 to remove protector D?
Yes! Protector-D/D+ has to be removed with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 to ensure that the surface is not patchy. Use Surfactant-3.6 to test for surface-tension (even absorption rate) prior to AnilineTop-76G application to achieve the best even result in appearance.
Attachment 9689
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/surfactant-3-6/
Another quick question. I ran out of hydrator and I'm about to order more. Meanwhile to prevent further damage to the microcracking area, would it be a good idea to soak more fatliqour through the reverse side for a day or two until I receive the shipment of products?Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Thank you and have a nice night.
Hey Roger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
I understand you're very busy. Is hydrator a requirement for the fatliqouring to achieve its penetration? Would it be OK to soak fatliqour on the reverse side without applying hydrator?
>>> Is hydrator a requirement for the fatliqouring to achieve its penetration? Would it be OK to soak fatliqour on the reverse side without applying hydrator?
Hydrator-3.3 is developed to partly break any surface tension, relax and separate the fiber structure - making an easy entrance first for effective fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0.
No harm trying, if it does penetrate easily then process with Fatliquor-5.0 alone.
Hello Roger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
I began working on the micro-cracking area with the impregnator. I noticed there are a few overstretched areas in the leather on the reverse side. Overstretched to the point of damage.
What do you recommend to rectify this overstretching, BOND 3D? I did a treatment of impregnator, hydrator, fatliqour.
The microcracking has definitely improved tremendously. But these overstretched parts are worrisome...
Also the cushion does have some uneven dye bleeding, would applying acidifier rectify this on the reverse side?
Attachment 9690Attachment 9691Attachment 9692
>>> What do you recommend to rectify this overstretching, BOND 3D? I did a treatment of impregnator, hydrator, fatliqour.
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Impregnator-36 > Bond-3D in this sequence.
>>> The microcracking has definitely improved tremendously. But these overstretched parts are worrisome…
Use Impregnator-26 to tighten overstretching, after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3
>>> Also the cushion does have some uneven dye bleeding, would applying acidifier rectify this on the reverse side?
Yes, use Acidifier-2.0 to control dye bleeding
Good evening Roger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
What would cause Effectwax 8.6 to turn a bit brown when applying? This is on the area I treated with Acidifier 2.0 to control dye bleeding and even it out. I saturated the cushion heavily with hydrator 3.3> fatliqour 5.0> hydrator 3.3> acidifier 2.0> hydrator3.3> effectwax 8.6. The hydrator, fatliqour, and effectwax were heavily saturated. Acidifier I let dwell for 30 minutes then soaked any bit of it I could.
Does acidifer dry out the hydrator3.3 and fatliqour 5.0 significantly?
Also I noticed the leather was stiff from the reverse side on the heavily treated area?
Thank you, I placed an order for more. Have more stuff to treat.
>>> What would cause Effectwax 8.6 to turn a bit brown when applying?
You will need to show some pictures better a before and an after.
Most probably the leather you are treating is too light and to become “a bit brown” or saturated is exactly what this product does. A well treated Aniline Wax Pull-up when new is very dark. To lighten it, simply pull or stretch out the leather to lighten it.
>>> This is on the area I treated with Acidifier 2.0 to control dye bleeding and even it out. I saturated the cushion heavily with hydrator 3.3> fatliqour 5.0> hydrator 3.3> acidifier 2.0> hydrator3.3> effectwax 8.6. The hydrator, fatliqour, and effectwax were heavily saturated. Acidifier I let dwell for 30 minutes then soaked any bit of it I could. Does acidifer dry out the hydrator3.3 and fatliqour 5.0 significantly?
No Acidifier-2.0 will not dry out the Fatliquor-5.0 of its (fat and oil) content, one of its functions is to stabilize the leather pH integrity more to the ionic positive (+ve) so that the ionic negative (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0 hydrogen bonds to the protein leather fiber for strength and suppleness. The other function is to control excessive dye bleeding.
>>> Also I noticed the leather was stiff from the reverse side on the heavily treated area?
When leather dries too fast just like hanging clothing under the hot sun, it stiff out. A natural slow drying away from direct heat will produce a more supple leather. This principle is based on the science of “London Forces” or “Van der Waals Forces”. You can check it out why you should not fast dry leather as well. Leather Doctor system is based on science and logic and all these products works in a system to achieve the best result same as back to the tannery where you leather originally comes from.
>>> Thank you, I placed an order for more. Have more stuff to treat.
I think you have to consider to have this Kit-Aw6.tc
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw6...finishing-kit/
And get additional refills to sufficiently complete your project. You also have to look into the tool recommended to use.
Especially the brush, and the eraser and the 2000grit sandpaper which you may already have.
Without the LeatherEraser-4 any wick up body oil, grease will still be stubborn on the surface of the leather. So we will wait if you need further items to go together with your order #1975.
Hey Roger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
I am not getting great results on the area that had heavy microcracking and overstretching after heavy saturation of hydrator (wrapped for 24 hours) and ample fatliqour. I was successfully able to remove most of the blue paint using a q-tip saturated in stripper.
At this point what do you think about making a U-turn and do the full top-coat restoration with Kit-Aw3? I found out the previous owner had used heavy coatings of "Lexoil leather conditioner before selling. I been trying to avoid redoing everything but at this stage it's looking necessary to remove the Lexoil and get back to a tannery system as you mention.
Attachment 9693Attachment 9694Attachment 9695
Above picture is the one problematic area. Treatment follows:
Impregnator (reverse side)>hydrator (reverse side, 24hr dwell plastic-wrapped)>fatliqour x3(reverse side)>acidifer (surface for 30 minutes then extracted to control dye bleeding)>rinse 3.0 (surface)>hydrator (reverse side)>effectwax (surface)
I should of applied the hydrator before the impregnator.
Would like to know your thoughts, Thank you Roger.
Just seen your reply, I did order AW6 plus additional refills. My order name is Austen Harke.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Thanks again for your patience in answering my many questions.
Go ahead with order #1975 my previous order was Kit-Aw6.tc. Order 1975 is just extra product. Do you recommend any additional addons?Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Then it is OK for the time being!
Hey Roger did you see my reply with updated photos? I'd like to hear your input.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Thank you
>>> I found out the previous owner had used heavy coatings of "Lexoil leather conditioner before selling. I been trying to avoid redoing everything but at this stage it's looking necessary to remove the Lexoil and get back to a tannery system as you mention.
Lexol is not used in the tannery. The Leather Doctor system is>
Try remove with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3.
When dry give a full inspection then with satisfaction you may continue with EffectWax-8.6 > Topcoat.
Any leather with creases is too dry, cross section stretch during the Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 process to get rid of 'coarse' breaks!
Good afternoon Roger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
I'm currently in process of applying the anilinetop-76g and I'm getting good gloss but with inconsistent spots. I am applying using the foam applicator then "floating" a lint-free 3in roller over the top to even it out.
3 pillows I've done so far turned out very good but I am having issues with these 2. I am using surfactant-3.6 before applying to help. Also I'm using the provided 2000 grit sand paper after the coat dries but it doesn't help the cloudy spots.
Thank you!
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What is the temperature in this room?
You may use 3" foam paint roller to eliminate the streaks!
Use a hot hair dryer and heat up the cloudy spot to eliminate it.
Good morning Roger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
The room is about 21c/71f maybe 30% humidity not a whole lot of sunshine where I'm doing this at.
I'm getting better results now after 4-7 coatings, sanding in-between with the 2000 grit. Also, hair drying a bit to not let it dwell.
The small cloudy spots cleared up after further drying.
What can I do to reduce my coatings? I'm working on a cushion now, the wax seems to be interfering. (extreme cloudiness after 2 coatings but keeps improving every coating.) Running out of the aniline76g quart bottle fast.
My process is EffectWax-8.6>Surfactant-3.6>Anilinetop76g heavy duty gloss.
Any suggestions are much appreciated.
Here is the cushion after Surfactant-3.6 and 2 coatings of aniline76g + sandingQuote:
Originally Posted by Djrabbit
Attachment 9701
Did you activate the cloudy surface after EffectWax-8.6 dries?
Yes, I am activating until I get an oil-like residue on the surface.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
OK you do it right!
But after applying the aniline topcoat the wax is not melting or do I need more heat? I'm using low volume air with mid heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Heat the surface cloudy wax to shine before you apply AnilineTop-76G.
>>> do I need more heat? I'm using low volume air with mid heat.
Yes, I use a heat blower, hair dryer will need higher setting
Hey Roger I finished all bottles of anilinetop76g and the results are great. (Will post photos soon...)Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Last question I had was on the reapplication of the topcoat. Can I overtime reapply the topcoat without having to redo the entire process?
One cushion is having a trouble with a strong topcoat bond. It began flaking slightly in the middle left and right corners. (where the leather bunches together when sitting).
Attachment 9702
Please let me know, this cushion was especially hard when applying the topcoat.
Much appreciated. Have a nice evening.
>>> Last question I had was on the reapplication of the topcoat. Can I overtime reapply the topcoat without having to redo the entire process?
It depends how the topcoat is damaged, if by aging then the entire process is recommended. But if by accident that the topcoat need repairs, then the basic recommendation is Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Surfactant-3.6 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-D/D+.
>>> One cushion is having a trouble with a strong topcoat bond. It began flaking slightly
Sanding to feather out the edges then follow this sequence: Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Surfactant-3.6 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-D/D+.
>>> Please let me know, this cushion was especially hard when applying the topcoat.
Massaging it before Fatliquor-5.0 dries help to make the leather more supple.
Good afternoon Roger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
I will leave the topcoat as is for now. This project was extremely time-consuming.
Attachment 9703
Attachment 9704