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Dear Roger,
The new bottle arrived intact and I’m ready to start my project. How do I find the instructions to restore a shearling coat?
Also, it has paste stones around the neck which don’t detach - do these need to be covered when I start spraying?
Many thanks,
Sally Ann
#1 Shearling coat with stones around the neck!
Attachment 9125
#2 Leather Doctor Kit-Sn4 - Shearling Nappalan care Kit
Attachment 9126
>>> How do I find the instructions to restore a shearling coat?
Shearling coats have two faces, the inside face could be the common lamb/sheep wool or the rare hair wool.
The outside face varies and selecting a shearling kit is primarily base on the outside varieties.
From the picture, this outer face is suede with stone and non-absorbent embellishments, thus the correct shearling kit should be Leather Doctor Kit-Ss3 - Shearling Suede Care Kit instead.
Leather Doctor Kit-Ss3
Attachment 9132
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-ss3...uede-care-kit/
The cleaning of the inside wool/hair face is the same in all the kits, only difference is the outer face.
>>> Also, it has paste stones around the neck, which don’t detach - do these needs to be covered when I start spraying?
There is no need to remove these non-absorbent and non-staining embellishments. Just gently clean around it with the detailing brush without leaving a dry space. Kit-Sn3 does not have the appropriate products and tools for the suede surface - See Kit-Ss3 instead.
Attachment 9131
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Online-Life-Coaching
online store: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]
>>> How do I find the instructions to restore a shearling coat?
Here is the instruction for cleaning and rejuvenating a "SUEDE" shearling coat . . .
Instruction:
In practice the wool inner face is first clean, let dry and groom for inspection satisfaction prior to cleaning and conditioning the suede face.
Wool Face Cleaning and Conditioning:
Sequence-W1: A- Dry Soil Removal: Instruction: A1- Vacuum off foreign soiling with help of suede Brush-3.
Sequence-W2: B- Wet Soil Removal: Instruction: B1- Spray CleanWool-5.5, brush at an angle in one direction and towel extract until it shows clean. B2- Spray RinseWool-4.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean. B3- Let natural drying and dry towel wipe of wick-up soiling.
Sequence-W3: C- Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection: Instruction: C1- Shake well, mist spray Protector-S evenly and brush-in with towel to pick up soiling at the same time. C2- When dry thereafter, groom with suede Brush-3 or a slick comb for best appearance and it is ready for use.
Suede Face Cleaning, Rejuvenating and Conditioning:
Sequence-S1: A- Dry Soil Removal: Instruction: A1- Vacuum off foreign soiling with help of SuedeNapaBrush-2. A2- Exfoliate to renew fresh nap with help of suede Eraser-5 follows with vacuum cleaner. Then proceed to Sequence-S2.
Sequence-S2: B- Wet Soil Removal: Instruction: B1- Apply CleanSuede-3.8 and agitate with Brush-2/Eraser-5 and towel extract until it shows clean. B2- Spray RinseSuede-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean. B3- Let natural drying and wick-up soiling is erased with Eraser-5 prior to hydrating. Then proceed to Sequence-S3.
Sequence-S3: C- Hydrating: Hydrating is to relax the suede structure of dryness, stiffness or shrinkage from diminishing original fatliquor (ionic negative charged fat, oil and water). Fatliquor diminishes as the skin ages, accelerated when expose to direct heat, evaporate as VOC (volatile organic compound) or cleaning with products pH value out of this leather-safe (pH 3 – 5) range. Dryness, Stiffness or shrinkage is common from an immersion cleaning method, when fatliquor leaches out, and when it becomes dry again the fibrils suede structure becomes stick together. Hydrating is to precondition the skin prior to fatliquoring; it helps to relax and separate the stick together fibrils and opens up the inter-fibrillary spaces for effective colloidal water movement within the skin structure. It facilitates to wick-up foreign contamination to be towel extracted when damp and erased when crispy dry. It plumps the skin to ease away the unnatural creases and wrinkles by cross stretching. It stabilizes the pH integrity of the suede and charges the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) as it hydrate the suede structure to an optimum level. Optimum hydrating is with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. Prolong dwell time of up to 72hours will maximize the effects with the help of covering with clear plastic to prevent evaporation. Instruction: C1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to hydrate the entire thickness of the suede structure; extract with dry absorbent white terry towel to inspect for an even appearance without blotchiness and it is ready for immediate fatliquor replenishing. C2- Severe dryness or stiffness will require a longer dwell time of up to 72hours with evaporation control, covering with a clear plastic sheet. When the suede structure is plump, limp and stretched of unnatural creases and wrinkles, extract until towel shows dry or about 25% reading from a leather moisture meter and immediately proceeding to Sequence-S4.
Sequence-S4: D- Fatliquoring: Fatliquor-5.0 an ionic negative (-ve) charged emulsion of fat, oil and water originally introduces to the suede structure to impart its desirous suppleness, continues to diminish through evaporation as it ages, accelerated when exposed to heat. It diminishes through leaching during immersion cleaning as well as cleaning products used out of this leather-safe (pH 3 to 5) range. Non suede-safe cleaning results commonly manifest as stiffness, dryness or shrinkage when the skin becomes dry again. Fatliquor replenishing is done with “fatliquor-in-a-bottle” as a spray-on instead of the original immersion method. Fatliquor, the lifeblood of leathers derived from ionic negative (-ve) charged fats, oils and water. Looks like fresh milk, when applies penetrates the suede and hydrogen bond with its ionic positive (+ve) charged protein fiber. The fat plumps the suede with fullness, the oil lubricates the individual fibrils and the encasing water breaks free leaving the inter-fibrillary spaces void for natural transpiration. Effective fatliquoring will leave a non-greasy or non-oily surface when dry. Besides softening the suede free of unnatural wrinkles, fatliquor enhances its rip tensile strength greatly. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles and prevents cracking. It helps to keep the suede at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. Suede Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor: The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the suede structure after an universal modern tannery fatliquoring process may varies up to 14% depending on the suede types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the suede in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the suede in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates. In suede rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 are 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry suede from less than 1% back to the original tannery up to 14% fatliquor content. Instruction: D1- Spray Fatliquor-5.0 for an even appearance. D2- Repeat application in between drying as the water contents evaporates until it’s saturated. D3- The fully saturated suede is left for slow natural drying for extra softness. D4- Use Eraser-5 to remove wicks up residue and Brush-3 at an angle to groom the naps for visual inspection satisfaction and proceed to Sequence S5.
Sequence-S5: E- Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection: Instruction: E1- Shake well, mist spray Protector-S evenly and brush-in with towel to pick up soiling at the same time. E2- When dry thereafter, groom with suede Brush-3 or a slick comb for best appearance and it is ready for use.
Oh, no - are you sure? This is what a new one looks like (before I washed mine in the bath.)
Attachment 9134
>>> Oh, no - are you sure? This is what a new one looks like (before I washed mine in the bath.)
This “what a new one looks like” and if it was smooth without a “finger-writing-effect” or nap then it would have a clear gloss topcoat like AnilineTop-76G which gave it a napallan sauvage appearance. Then Kit-Sn4 is correct!
However, you may have to restore the napallan effect with Aniline-76 clear (optional depending on nap coarseness) > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-B/B+ back to the “new one looks like”.
This napallan smooth finishes gives a better water repellency effect then just suede.
Does the suede have a “finger-writing-effect” now?
>>> Great, so I have the right kit? No, no finger writing.
Here are the instructions for smooth "Nappalan" shearling , please clarify when in doubt before you commence . . .
A both sides cleaning begin with the inner wool face turning outside. When it is complete return and begins with the leather face.
Wool Face Cleaning and Conditioning:
Sequence-W1 - Dry Soil Removal - Instruction: W1-1) Vacuum off foreign soiling with help of suedeBrush-3 brushing at an angle. Proceed to Sequence-W2.
Sequence-W2 - Wet Soil Removal - Instruction: W2-1) Apply CleanWool-5.5, brush at a low slant and terry towel extract until it shows clean. W2-2) Spray RinseWool-4.0 and terry towel extract to a squeaky clean. W2-3) Let natural drying and dry towel wipe of wick-up soiling. Proceed to Sequence-W3.
Sequence-W3 - Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection - Instruction: W3-1) Shake well, mist spray Protector-S/S+ evenly with brushing to redistribute deep. W3-2) When dry thereafter groom with suedeBrush-3 or a slick comb to bloom for best appearance. Return to the leather face and continue as follows:
Napallan Smooth Face Cleaning, Rejuvenating and Protection:
Sequence-N1 - Dry Soil Removal - Instruction: L1-1) Dry soiling is brushed with LeatherBrush-1.
Sequence-N2 - Wet Soil Removal - Instruction: L2-1) Apply Clean-3.8 and agitate with Brush-1 (horsehair) and terry towel extract until it shows clean. L2-2) Spray Rinse-3.0 and terry towel extract to a squeaky clean. L3-3) While still damp: Proceed to Sequence-L3.
Sequence-N3 - Hydrating - Hydrating is to relax the leather face of stiffness and creases from diminishing original fatliquor. Fatliquor (ionic charged fat and oil) diminishes as the skin ages, accelerated when expose to direct heat and evaporate as VOC (volatile organic compound) shown clearly on the elbow region. Hydrating is to precondition the leather prior to fatliquoring; it helps to relax and separate the stick together fibrils and opens up the inter-fibrillary spaces for effective colloidal water movement within the leather structure. It facilitates to wick-up foreign contamination to be towel extracted when damp and erased when crispy dry. It plumps the skin to ease away the unnatural creases and wrinkles. It stabilizes the pH integrity of the skin and charges the protein fiber ionic positive below its iso-electric point (pI) to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively. It is recommended therefore to hydrate the skin to an optimum level, with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. Prolong dwell time will maximize the effects with the help of covering with clear plastic to prevent evaporation. Instruction: L3-1) Spray Hydrator-3.3 with foam brush control to hydrate the entire thickness of the leather. To remove unnatural creases and wrinkles especially the elbow regions, allow to dwell and to stretch to satisfaction. Extract with a dry absorbent white terry towel, inspect for an even appearance without blotchiness and it is ready for immediate fatliquoring. L3-2) Severe unnatural creases and wrinkles will require a longer dwell time of up to 72hours with evaporation control, covering with a clear plastic sheet. When the skin is plump, limp and lay flat, extract until towel shows dry or about 25% reading from a moisture meter and immediately proceed to Sequence-L4.
Sequence-N4 - Fatliquoring - Fatliquor-5.0 an emulsion of fat and oil originally introduces to the skin to impart its desired suppleness. The fat and oil content continues to diminish through evaporation as it ages, accelerated when exposed to heat. It diminishes through leaching as well in a non leather-safe solution and immersion cleaning, manifest as stiffness when the skin becomes dry again. Replenishing or rejuvenating is done with “fatliquor-in-a-bottle” as a spray-on instead of the original immersion method. Fatliquor, the lifeblood of leathers composition derives from fats, oils and water. When applies penetrates the skin and hydrogen bond with its protein fiber. The fat plumps the skin with fullness, the oil lubricates the individual fibrils and the encasing water breaks free leaving the inter-fibrillary spaces void for natural transpiration. Effective fatliquoring will leave a non-greasy or non-oily surface when dry. Besides softening the skin, fatliquor enhances its rip tensile strength greatly. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles and prevents cracking. It helps to keep the skin at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. Instruction: L4-1) Spray Fatliquor-5.0 with foam brush control for an even appearance. L4-2) Repeat application in between drying as the water contents evaporates until it’s saturated. L4-3) The fully saturated skin is left for slow natural drying. L4-4) Stretch and massage it before it is completely dry for extra suppleness.
Sequence-N5 - Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection - Instruction: L5-1) Shake well, mist spray Protector-B (scentless) B+ (leather-scented) with Towel-5 to redistribute evenly. L5-2) When dry, it is ready-to-use.
Tips:
Smartness of appearance may be improved with a low heat wool setting ironing. Place a white absorbent paper between leather and iron and iron for to improve appearance. Lacquer emulsion pigmented opaque finishes like Napa-84 system produces the best result then Micro-54 system or the transparent Aniline-76 system.
Hide/Skin Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor: The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the skin after an universal modern tannery fatliquoring process may varies up to 14% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the skin in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the skin in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates. In the skin rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 are 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0.It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up to 14% fatliquor content.
MothProof-5.4
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/mothproof-5-4/
helps prevents moth attack on wool when store during the warmer seasons.
>>> I hydrated the coat and it is resting now. I didn’t clean it first - can I do that next BEFORE I apply the Fatliquor ? (I think I’m doing it in the wrong order?)
Yes, you may re-start the “wet” continuous cleaning and rejuvenating process in this sequence:
Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 (surface Fatliquor-5.0 residue is rinse off with Hydrator-3.3 let to slow dry and before it dries you may want to stretch with a smooth sauce or spoon to supple it up.