Hi there,
I am wondering if it is possible for me to restore the puffiness of this vintage Chanel bag without damaging it? I have posted pictures. Can you please tell me if this is possible and any directions would be much appreciated!
Hi there,
I am wondering if it is possible for me to restore the puffiness of this vintage Chanel bag without damaging it? I have posted pictures. Can you please tell me if this is possible and any directions would be much appreciated!
Pictures show shrinkage of the leather that result in the loss of the much-desired puffiness.
The only possibility is to replenish the diminishing tannery fatliquor (fat, oil and water) that have evaporated as gases. Fat plumps and gives fullness to the leather structure, oil lubricates the leather fibers for softness and strength and water when dries leaves a breathing space for leather natural transpiration. These are the three main function of a fatliquor, as fatliquor is a volatile organic compound like all fat, oil and water will sooner or later vanish into the thin air. This shrinkage is a leather structure problem and in order to replenish the fatliquor with Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0) it has to penetrate and redistribute to the entire leather structure in between all the inter-fibrillary spaces. The preconditioning of the leather structure requires the work of a hydrator using Hydrator-3-3 with a pH value of 3.3 close to the pH neutral of leather average 4. The function of the hydrator is multi fold and in this purpose it is to relax the separate the stick together fibers to increase its physical dimension, thus increases the puffiness. When this dimension increment is achieved, then the leather is ready to accept the Fatliquor-5.0. Another function of the hydrator is to charge the “amphoteric” protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to increase the ionic attraction between the ionic negative (-ve) fatliquor. Fatliquor-5.0 is a micro emulsion similar to natural fresh milk, where the fat and oil is encase within the water molecule. The water molecular size is much smaller than an oil molecule thus easier for penetrating into the leather inter-fibrillary spaces. As the encased fat and oil is ionic attracted to the leather protein fiber, the encasing water breaks free and wick up as free water, leaving a breathing space for leather transpiration. Fat at room temperature turns solid that plumps the leather for fullness and the oil that lubricate each leather fibril like millions of interlocking hinges to slide easily against each other to provides softness when flex. This is exactly how a modern tannery does soften its leather after preserving the raw lambskin from perishable to imperishable that makes leather so supple and practical to make into this beautiful handbag. Damaging is without the understanding about the material in question that is leather. Leather is not homogenous; the main component of leather is the “amphoteric” protein lambskin fiber. In the tanning process three main other leather constituents is introduced to the skin, they are the tanning agent, fatliquor and the dyestuff. Tanning agent is the preservative, fatliquor impart suppleness and dyestuff provides the aesthetic. Leather is pH sensitive and is acidic thus this holistic system utilizes an acidic leather-safe system where the product suffix denotes its pH value.
When leather is damaged or denature due to pH, its clear indication is that the leather will become tacky and in worse cases slimy just like all protein food that loose its freshness when wet, squeakiness of feel will indicate that the leather is healthy with chemistry integrity intact.
Although we are talking about below surface rejuvenating the leather structure for plumpness, it is also practical that we take care of its surface as well, thus an holistic approach would entail surface soiling removal, leather structure relaxing with fullness and plumpness and a breathable (leather natural transpiration) non-stick rub-resistant protection that impart a buttery feel with a classic leather scent to charm.
The sequence of a holistic approach may follow these procedures.
1] Restorative Cleaning:
Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0
2] Leather Rejuvenating:
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0
3] Protection:
Protector-B+
This Aniline Problem Solving Guide is use as reference:
Attachment 1659
Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide by Leather DoctorŽ
Non-immersion fatliquor replenishing a Chanel bag.
Attachment 1657
Product information:
Attachment 1656
Leather Doctor Kit A3 – Aniline Leather Care Kit
Leather DoctorŽ Kit A3, aniline leather care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system designed for keeping leathers at their highest level of appearance, maintaining its pH chemistry integrity, enhancing their suppleness and prevents premature ageing. Leathers that faced the sun, closed to fireplace and heaters dries out the fat and oil that keeps it supple sooner than the non-heat exposed areas. The diminishing of the fat and oil through evaporation results in the leather fibers being stick closer together that results in stiffness and when flexed during used will lead to cracks. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to plumps the stick together fibers prior to fat and oil replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple and strong. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness and cracking. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced with friction noise reduction. This is preventable with a rub-resistant Protector-B+ that imparts a natural buttery-feel. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Cleaner-3.8 follows by Rinse-3.0 to the bare body contact areas like headrest and armrest helps reduce greasy soiling build-up. Restorative cleaning and occasional dye stains removal from new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-4.4. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system.
Instruction:
Preventive Care:
A non-stick, rub-resistant protection is recommended to be in place before putting the leather to daily use. Protector-B+ imparts a soft natural buttery-feel that enhances the leather luxuriously to the sense of touch. The non-stick surface shields the leather from sticky soiling thus prolonging the high level of appearance. Rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear. This leather-scented protector diffuses a classic leather scent that boost the sensuous leather more appealing to the leather lover. This preventive care is kept in place at each level of routine, periodic or restorative cleaning cycle. A simply spray and wipe prolongs the need for cleaning heavy soiling.
1. Mist sprays Protector-B+ spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.
Routine Care:
Routine care includes procedures such as general dust cleaning, attending to spots and stains as required especially the neutralizing of swear stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. Routine non-stick rub resistant protections after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather in a more attractive and healthy state while preventing premature wear. 1. Spray Rinse-3.0, horsehair Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
2. Mist sprays Protector-B+ spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.
Periodic Care:
Periodic care is recommended before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Body contact areas would require more frequent attention than the unused areas. While the leather headrest and hand rest gets the most of body oil and sweat contacts.
1st phase – Periodic Care:
1. Spray Cleaner-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Towel extract until it shows clean.
3. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
4. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
2nd phase – Hydrating:
Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Moreover, it is used to check for surface tension from blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to check for an even appearance.
3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rise especially from exposed surfaces. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.
4th phase – Preventive Care
1. Mist sprays Protector-B+ spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.
Restorative Care:
This is the ultimate restorative or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Restorative cleaning is performed by using Prep-4.4. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas.
1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1. Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3. Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extracts until it shows clean.
4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extracts to a squeaky-clean.
5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
2nd phase – Hydrating:
Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Its surfactancy helps check for surface tension of blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate with an even appearance to soften up the leather.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes and towel extract wick up soiling until it shows clean.
3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.
4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Mist sprays Protector-B+ spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.
Kit Content and Product Description:
Leather DoctorŽ Prep-4.4 (60ml)
This is the leather-safe milder version of Prep-7.7 with a pH value of 4.4. Its high viscosity is designed to be painted on neatly with a foam brush onto the leather. It works by allowing sufficient dwell-time to penetrate, lubricate and suspense soiling prior to towel extraction.
Leather DoctorŽ Clean-3.8 (250ml)
This is a leather-safe pH 3.8 cleaner for removing Prep-7.7 sticky residue.
Leather DoctorŽ Rinse-3.0 (250ml)
This is a leather-safe pH 3.0 rinse to neutralize alkalinity and remove all traces of cleaning residue to a healthy squeaky-feel.
Leather DoctorŽ Hydrator-3.3 (250ml)
This is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator with active surfactantcy for lowering the interfacial tension. It is for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers to separate the crushed, stick together fibrils and relaxes them. It is for charging the leather protein fibers below its iso-electric point positive for long lasting hydrogen bond with the ionic negative charged Fatliquor-5.0. It is for facilitating colloidal water movement within the leather structure during the wicking process to move soiling particulates to the surface.
Leather DoctorŽ Fatliquor-5.0 (250ml)
This is a pH 5.0 anionic charged micro emulsion fatliquor to rejuvenate leather with softness, suppleness and strength. It is for replenishing original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure or cleaning. It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying they will be capable of sliding over one another smoothly. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It relaxes coarse breaks; creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.
Leather DoctorŽ Protector-B+ (120ml)
This is a leather scented, non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that impart a natural buttery-feel. Its non-stick breathable barrier is essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. It reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes during used.
Leather Brush-1 (1pc)
This horsehair detailing brush is designed ergonomically to be an extension of our hand with a sturdy grooved grip. It is designed to produce effective result easily and efficiently. It is recommended for all smooth leather for a soft and scratch-free cleaning. Its length is 7 inches with a three-row bristle 1˝ inches cleaning head.
3 inch Poly-Brush (1 pc)
This is a dense foam that resists tearing and shredding and carries more material. It has a solid wood handle that allows greater control for quality results. It is used for controlling and spreading fatliquor for a more even distribution.
Paper Towel Rags (5 pc)
This rag works like cloth, lint free, highly absorbent and washable. General application is for extracting suspended soiling or for spreading hydrator, fatliquor or protector. It is used for both dye and topcoat padding for smooth leathers.
Hi Roger,
Thanks so much for your response and for the comprehensive details. Your research and knowledge is very impressive; but I hope you understand that i am a bit afraid to do this. I would like to see if this has been done before on lambskin leather. I am interested in trying out the system as long as it is sure that it will not cause damage to the lambskin.
Thank you again!
Pre-existing finishes damages are evident from the first picture (bottom center to right shows extreme shrinkage) – the finishes (topcoat) shows blistering. Most probably from sweat related damages. A possible refinishing is due for reverting the damages. That is to say this bag now suffers from “structural” damages as well as “finishes” damages. Can a leather-safe hydrating and fatliquoring system which is pH specific cause further damages – the answer is NO! – It is Leather-Safe! In this situation, the hydrating my take more than 72 hours to accomplish the objective just for shrinkage. Refinishing is another consideration. I would suggest you have a knowledgeable well train personnel to do this task for you, giving you some peace of mind.
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant.
www.LeatherDoctor.com