Blotchy topcoat

Hello, I've followed procedures, finishing with Aniline Top 76G. However there are areas where topcoat won't adhere and makes the surface look blotchy. What should I do? I tried going over dull spots more but it doesn't seem to make it better at all

>>> However there are areas where the topcoat won't adhere and makes the surface look blotchy.

Poor adhesion is due to a surface that is not free from foreign residue, for example, if Fatliquor-5.0 (fat and oil) still remains on the surface without sufficient clean off with Hydrator-3.3. The AnilineTop-76G will not be able to adhere to.


>>> What should I do? I tried going over dull spots more but it doesn't seem to make it better at all

The poorly adhered topcoat has to be removed, with the sand2000 sandpaper, Topcoats are also removed with Stripper-2.3.


Note:
I suggest you have a coaching session with me by WhatsApp and explain on time with your project to do it right the first time. Email me.

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Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Thank you for the reply. I actually want to redo the topcoat. In order to strip it, do I need something other than stripper? I do have a3 stuff still

Also when do you plan on reopening the website for order?

>>> Thank you for the reply. I actually want to redo the topcoat.

Tips to redo topcoat . . .

Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system is the first step.
This degreaser system ensures the surface is free from grease, otherwise, there may be poor adhesion with topcoating.

The second recommended step is Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3. Note the reason why Hydrator-3.3 follows after Fatliquor-5.0 is to remove all surface fatliquor residue. The first sequence of the Hydrator-3.3 is to relax the thickness of the leather as a preconditioner for the Fatliquor-5.0. Fatliquor-5.0 is applied each cycle; the leather soaks up the fat and oil while the water content evaporates. The purpose of this second step is to achieve supple leather from shrinkage and structural weakness. Improper cleaning up residual fatliquor from the leather surface will result in poor adhesion of the top coating with AnilineTop-76G.

The third step is to use Surfactant-3.6 to spray the surface after Hydrator-3.3 clean up to inspect for surface tension. When Surfactant-3.6 pools or droplets without spreading out, such surface may need to be recleaned to ensure that top coating will adhere properly.

The fourth step to ensure the surface is ready for top coating is using Adhesor-73 to scrub with a fine 3M white scrub pad to ensure deteriorating existing finishes are removed. The final light application will also ensure a successful topcoat application.

The fifth step is the top coat application, and the first coating is preferred to be brushed with a horsehair brush. The subsequent application can be a fine brush with a typical foundation facial brush.

>>> In order to strip it, do I need something other than a stripper? I do have a3 stuff still

Products and tools for stripping of the finishes include Leather Doctor Stripper-2.3 (that has a pH value of 2.3 safes on the leather). Remember, leather is an amphoteric material and all alkaline products with a pH value of 7 and above will denature the leather. A leather eraser is also recommended to scrub the leather grains clean of foreign residue without physically damaging the leather surface or grains.

>>> Also when do you plan on reopening the website for order?

I wish to reopen the online store as soon as possible, but realistically it will be 3 to 6 months' time.

I am also available to offer you online coaching by WhatsApp at US$99 an hour to assist you to do it right the first time.