How to clean-up and soften a very shiny, hard and full of sweat Saab Turbo leather steering wheel?

I saw your blog with guy who cleaned up his BMW steering wheel and I am intrigued. I recently purchased a used leather wheel for a Saab Turbo and need to do the process, as it is very shiny, hard, and full of sweat and dirt from the previous owner. I would like to get the leather cleaned up and soft again. Can you please send me your process and products list to accomplish this?

Here are a couple of pictures to share with you before ordering. See what you think and let me know if this wheel is restorable?

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P1263200.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P1263201.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P1263202.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P1263203.jpg

#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P1263204.jpg

#6
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P1263205.jpg

#7
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P1263206.jpg

#8
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P1263209.jpg

Picture #1
This picture shows that the rough surface may require some fine dry and wet sanding (1000 to 1500grit) to smoothen it without hurting the leather grain.

Picture #2
This picture shows accumulation of soiling and may require a leather Eraser-4 to remove without hurting the leather grain.

Picture #3
This picture shows cracking; most likely is from the soiling accumulation rather than the leather itself and may need removal as #2.

Picture #4
This picture shows shine accumulation that need the work of Prep-7.7 to strip if off.

Picture #5
This picture shows color worn to the brown leather crust that may require color and topcoat refinishing. Besides the stitching areas is best accomplished with the detailing horsehair brush in conjunction with the Prep-7.7.

Picture #6
This picture shows the brown leather finish that is worn, that require color refinishing as #5; and also the grayish soiling accumulation that need to be stripped off as in #4.

Picture #7
This picture shows a combination of #1 and #6 mentioned.

Picture #8
This picture shows another view liken to #2.


To summarize what’s need to be done in the sequence of process is recommended as follows:

1] All foreign contamination is to be stripped by using – Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.

2] Tools that help in the cleaning restoration may include:
a. Leather Eraser-4 is used to erase lodge-in soiling particulates more effective because of the effective friction without hurting the leather grains.
b. Fine sanding paper (1000 to 1500grit) may be used to smooth rough areas, as necessary.
c. Horsehair detailing brush (included in the kit).
d. Foam brush (included in the kit).

3] Inspection during the rinsing process to check for leather sliminess or tackiness when wet with our fingers – a healthy leather should have a squeaky feel – when it is slimy or tacky – acidification is recommended with Acidifier-2.0.

4] Leather Rejuvenation:
To soften the leather structure hydrating and fatliquoring is recommended with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.

5] Color Refinishing:
An option to airbrush color that match original; Pigment Micro-54 is recommended (looks like it’s black or could be with 5 to 25 % of white with 1 to 3% ochre – just making a wild guess).

6] Topcoating:
A soft and strong urethane non-yellowing topcoat is recommended – use Topcoat Micro-72S (satin).

7] Non-stick, rub-resistant protection:
A draggy-feel is recommended for steering wheel with more grips and a duller sheen – use Leather Scent-D.

From the above you can decide what products you may need from Leather Doctor®.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Roger,

Many thanks for your insights. I would like to see how far we can go to clean and restore the original leather before investing in a dyeing and refinishing program. So, I will order materials covered in steps 1-4 and then see how it looks.

Thanks again for your advice,
DPM

Let us have some overall view, so that we can appreciate it more aesthetically.

To retain its character and age I would conserve it, rather than to restore it.

The option is as follows:

1] Conservation:
Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrate-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Leather Scent-D.

2] Conservation with Soft Urethane Topcoat Protection:
Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrate-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Topcoat Micro-72S (satin) > Leather Scent-D.

3] Restoration
Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrate-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Pigment Micro-54 > Topcoat Micro-72S (satin) > Leather Scent-D.


Recommendation:
When restorative cleaning (>99%) reveal worn or abraded surface it is recommended that a clear non-yellowing urethane topcoating is put in place to conserve it from further deteriorating; this application also allows you to have a smooth grip of the steering wheel without the irritating roughness. All the character beauty will still show through. I can see there is sure a need for this clear urethane non-yellowing protective topcoat.


What do you think?

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Roger,

The urethane topcoating sounds totally appropriate if the we cannot get the leather to come back from the cleaning and saturating. The only rough spots are where the sun hit the top of the wheel, but the surface is intact--not abraded, and the roughness is due to the small cracks. I was wondering if the dried and cracked portion of the wheel will soften and "fluff up", filling the small spaces in the cracks as the leather is re-moisturized from the conservation treatments?

I'll try to supply some pics showing the entire wheel--both sides.

Thanks again,
DPM

Only use the urethane topcoating when the leather is absolutely clean; it’s recommended after leather Eraser-4 > 1000 to 1500grit sanding and in-between sanding.
(sanding is not recommended for leather grain itself; its only for damaged or deterioated the leather finish - the more leather grain is sanded, the coarser it becomes).

If the cracks look like picture #3 & #8; it's most likely the heavy accumulation that is cracking rather than the leather itself. You can show us the before and after cleaning and we can go from there, how best to conserve it and prevent it from deteriorating – that’s where the urethane topcoat may be necessary.

Roger,

I received the kit the other day and am ready to begin. The bottle of 7.7 is rather small. Did I see an instruction to apply the gel and then wrap the wheel in plastic wrap to keep it moist as long as possible? How much should I apply? How long should I wait before wiping it down? Will I be doing this several times, as in several cycles with the 3.8 and 3.0?

Cheers,
DPM

Follow the instruction from the individual bottle:

Start with Prep-7.7; the dwell time ranges from half hour to 2 days; tools that help with agitation or erasing is the horsehair brush and the leather eraser follows by towel extraction.

Cling wrapping is an option when longer dwelling time is desired; usually recommended if its meant for an overnight dwell or up to 2 days - purpose is to prevent from evaporating and dripping away.

How much should I apply?
As much as the surface can hold without dripping away wasted; longer wrapping would used more; shorter dwell time should use less.

How long should I wait before wiping it down?
Continue working with the brush and the eraser over however long you wish says half hour or an hour - wipe off immediately - if if comes up clean - then remove the sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky clean minus any foam residue and its done.

Will I be doing this several times, as in several cycles with the 3.8 and 3.0?
You will know it when you have gone through 1 cycle. It is between the Prep-7.7 and the Cleaner-3.8 that you can stretch the dwelling time from half hour to 2 days; from Cleaner-3.8 to Rinse-3.0 is immediately.

Let's see some pictures if you are stuck...

Hi Roger,

Well I applied the 7.7 and wrapped, stored for 24 hours, and then scrubbed with brush and eraser with some fresh 7.7 for about an hour. Most visible dirt is gone, except in the 10 and 2 crotches, where people tend to grip the wheel. I went ahead and used 3.8 with the brush around the wheel about 3 times front and back, until the foam turned mostly whitish. I then used the same procedure with 3.0, but only once around. I can see the grain of the leather in the clean areas (YES !), and dull darkness where the dirt still exists, which is only about 2-3% of the surface area.

Because every wipe with towel shows grayish color still, I was thinking of doing the whole cycle again--beginning with 7.7, wrapping, etc. Is this advisable? Should I just use the 7.7 in the visibly dirty spots (in places with micro cracks from sun I can't determine if I got all of the dirt or not)? Or continue with the 3.8/3.0 on the remaining dirty spots and pack away the 7.7?

Thanks,
DPM

You are doing it right!

The idea is not to over clean it unnecessary; as the sticky residue from the Prep-7.7 has to be removed by Cleaner-3.8 and follows with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky feel.

You may want to give another round with Prep-7.7 onto these two areas.

Let's have some pictures...helps you see better.

You want to remove the surface contamination thoroughly before moving to the hydrating stage with Hydrator-3.3 - this will help to remove those penetrated sweaty contamination our eyes cannot see prior to Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather structure.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

OK, Here's the pictures, need to match up with the description, though...

Well, are you satisfied what you have done?




Roger,
For some reason I could not upload the pictures. So, here they are with explanatory text:

Cheers,
Dwight

Wheel untreated:
Wheel after cleaning:
Wheel after hydration:
Wheel after Fatliquor:

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2203216.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2203217.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2243218.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2243219.jpg

#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2243223.jpg

#6
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2253224.jpg

#7
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2253225.jpg

#8
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2253227.jpg

#9
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/P2263228.jpg

This is a test.

Roger,

I noticed that my last posting never made it to your blog. I reported the results of the work and the condition of the steering wheel. You posted the pics, but now I need to send text to explain them.

Whole wheel prior to cleaning #1-#2. After cleaning #3-#5. After hydrating #6-#8. After fatliquoring #9.

I do have mixed feelings about spending $130 on chemicals to basically clean and moisturize my $50 steering wheel, but all of your products did their jobs perfectly, as advertised. The questionable results apply only to my wheel, my expectations, and how the wheel looks and feels after all the treatments. I think you need to manage expectations somewhat with your clients--for instance, mention that in some cases a small amount of the dyes could be extracted with the cleaning processes, and that when the leather is rehydrated, sometimes the surface can get rougher than when it was dry and compressed, as the terrain features get magnified with the hydration (makes sense to me now).

My questions remain in considering going to the next level of restoration:

1. How do you match dyes and original color of the leather?

2. Will dyeing the leather make the good parts very dark and the faded parts less dark?

3. Will using the matte polyurethane make the rough patches and smooth patches look more similar, or just give them all a new smooth surface? For example those two rough spots at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions -- would they be less noticeable? When cleaning and hydrating, they just soaked up anything I put on them--like a sponge...

4. Does using the poly take away the feel of the leather? You know, the tacky "grippiness" one feels with bare hands or leather gloves on a smooth leather surface.

5. Do you have any poly that does NOT increase the shine of the leather finish?

6. Can the wheel be moisturized in the future after applying the poly finish?

I noticed that my last posting never made it to your blog.
Please re-post it!

I do have mixed feelings about spending $130 on chemicals to basically clean and moisturize my $50 steering wheel,
I do not have an answer to your question on price or worth. Your comment on post #6 “The bottle of 7.7 is rather small”; is noted. However, A 60ml bottle for the Prep-7.7 is in proportion ratio with the 250ml Cleaner and Rinse in terms of volume of usage when packaging as a kit in concern. Prep-7.7 does come in 250ml and quarts as refills, so you know, and the rest comes in concentrates to save on shipping.

but all of your products did their jobs perfectly, as advertised.
Thank you!

The questionable results apply only to my wheel, my expectations, and how the wheel looks and feels after all the treatments. I think you need to manage expectations somewhat with your clients -
Thank you for your comments, sometimes it is hard to gauge the level of experience the user may have, and even harder while trying to translate experiences into words, and are sometimes oblivious to whom am I talking to – a novice or a seasoned veteran; I apologize, I’ll try harder!

for instance, mention that in some cases a small amount of the dyes could be extracted with the cleaning processes.
There is no dyestuff used in this steering wheel; its pigmented coated; most of the surface contact areas have already worn off and missing; and deteriorated surface coating just like old paints do fall off with much scrubbing and erasing. This is typical of all corrective cleaning and not something abnormal.

and that when the leather is rehydrated, sometimes the surface can get rougher than when it was dry and compressed, as the terrain features get magnified with the hydration (makes sense to me now).
This caution about roughness was mention on my first post for Picture#1.
“Refer to Picture #1
This picture shows that the rough surface may require some fine dry and wet sanding (1000 to 1500grit) to smoothen it without hurting the leather grain.”


1. How do you match dyes and original color of the leather?
Match from Post #11, picture #1 with Pigment Micro System (this is the finer version of Pigment System). The color looks black, but it could be tinted with white to match the exact color; otherwise additional color can be added to shift it to the desired hue.

2. Will dyeing the leather make the good parts very dark and the faded parts less dark?
Dyeing is using “Transparent” color and what you describe fit the expectation. However the finish as identified from picture #1 of Post #11 clearly shows that it is colored by “opaque” pigmentation. It will block off existing color to give a mono-tone look – what you see is what you get!

3. Will using the matte polyurethane make the rough patches and smooth patches look more similar, or just give them all a new smooth surface? For example those two rough spots at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions -- would they be less noticeable? When cleaning and hydrating, they just soaked up anything I put on them--like a sponge...
To prevent the leather to soak liquid just like a sponge; Impregnator-26 helps to seal and tighten up these over absorbent area; making the entire surface more uniform for Adhesor-73 > Pigment Micro-54 (custom) > Topcoat Micro-72 Matte, Satin or Gloss. Whatever luster level is used it will produce a constant desired level of luster.

4. Does using the poly take away the feel of the leather? You know, the tacky "grippiness" one feels with bare hands or leather gloves on a smooth leather surface.
Naked leather and leather has a finish feels different. The tactile-feel protector makes the adjustment of a draggy, buttery, silky or a waxy feel. In this situation for a grippy feel; the Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) is just designed for such tactile-feel.

5. Do you have any poly that does NOT increase the shine of the leather finish?
Topcoat Micro-72M (matte)

6. Can the wheel be moisturized in the future after applying the poly finish?
Until micro cracks appear – that’s why the finer version of Micro-pigment is recommended.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n.../Repairer5.jpg
Leather Repairer (5)

Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26
It’s a Leather Surface Repairer for Pigmented and Aniline leather types.
This is a protein compact resin blend compound impregnator.
It’s for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks.
It’s to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process.
It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 0.5.
Thus a quart makes 1.5 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 120ml, and 250ml and in Quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (1.5 quarts).
Note:
For color skin repairs add colors accordingly up to ratio 1: 1.
Instruction:
1] Shake well, pad to saturate all weak and absorbent areas.
2] Concentrate on weak areas otherwise wipe off unnecessary excess to reduce buildup.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...xiliary3-1.jpg
Leather Dyeing & Coloring Auxiliary (3)

Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73
It’s an auxiliary for Pigmented and Aniline leathers refinishing.
This is an aqueous compact resin adhesion promoter to ensure proper adhesion prior to color coating.
It’s also used after WaxEffect8.6 prior to top coating.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 1.
Thus a quart makes 2 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 250ml and in Quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (2 quarts).
Email [email protected] for prices.
Note:
Strip clean of foreign contamination prior to application – use Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
Instruction:
1] Shake well, hand padding preferred to ensure better anchorage for non-absorbent leathers.
2] Fine airbrushing for absorbent leathers to reduce patchiness.
3] Let dry naturally or speed dry with blow dryer.
3] Proceed with choice of further coating.

Leather Doctor® Thickener-48
This is an auxiliary aqueous carboxylated acrylic co-polymer thickening agent to stabilize color during spraying.
It’s to adjust the flow of color to improve hold-up especially on vertical panels and antiquing two-tone fashion leathers.
It is highly effective and maintains the viscosity over the period of use.
This product is available in 60ml and 120ml.
Email [email protected] for prices.
Instruction:
1] Add 5 to 15% of total weight of color and stir simultaneously while adding.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...-Pigment12.jpg
Semi-Aniline Leather Coloring System (12)

Leather Doctor® Pigment Micro-54
It’s micro-pigment for semi-aniline leathers.
It's an aqueous soft compact resin blend high performance pigment color; strong against UV light than standard pigment.
Standard colors available in Black-512, White-505, Tan-586, Ochre-584, Maroon-502, Yellow-526, Orange-504, Red-554 and Blue-540.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 0.5.
Thus a quart makes 1.5 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 250ml and in quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (1.5 quarts).
Instruction:
1] Prep clean - use Prep-7.7 follows by Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] Leather rejuvenation – use Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
3] Strengthen weak and worn areas - use Impregnator-26
4] Ensure adhesion - use Adhesor-73.
5] Control flow and color stability - use Thickener-48.
6] Ensure anchorage – pad first coat avoiding streaking for better penetration.
7] Ensure uniformity - fine spray and allow in-between drying with subsequent light coat.
8] Topcoat protection - use Topcoat Micro-72 Gloss, Matte or Satin.

Leather Doctor® Topcoat Micro-72G
It’s a gloss finish for Micro-Pigmented, Semi-Aniline leathers.
This micro-pigment topcoat is an aqueous soft polyurethane leather topcoat.
It is lightfast and non-yellowing.
It has excellent flow and leveling properties.
Recoatable and forms a flexible film coat.
It gives good performing results when used for fine semi-aniline effects.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 1.
Thus a quart makes 2 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 250ml and in quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (2 quarts).
Instruction:
1] Apply after color coat otherwise prep clean - use Prep-7.7 follows with Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] Satin finish - mix Matte with Gloss.
3] Fine spray evenly a panel at a time for even coverage avoiding drips and spits.
4] Buttery-feel, non-stick rub-resistant protection with a classic leather scent - use leather Scent-B.

Leather Doctor® Topcoat Micro-72S
It’s a satin finish for Micro-Pigmented, Semi-Aniline leathers.
Gloss is more durable than satin finish.
This micro-pigment topcoat is an aqueous soft polyurethane leather topcoat.
It is lightfast and non-yellowing.
It has excellent flow and leveling properties.
Recoatable and forms a flexible film coat.
It gives good performing results when used for fine semi-aniline effects.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 1.
Thus a quart makes 2 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 250ml and in quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (2 quarts).
Instruction:
1] Apply after color coat otherwise prep clean - use Prep-7.7 follows with Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] Fine spray evenly a panel at a time for even coverage avoiding drips and spits.
3] Buttery-feel, non-stick rub-resistant protection with a classic leather scent - use leather Scent-B.

Leather Doctor® Topcoat Micro-72M
It’s a matte finish for Micro-Pigmented, Semi-Aniline leathers.
Satin is more durable than matte finish.
This micro-pigment topcoat is an aqueous soft polyurethane leather topcoat.
It is lightfast and non-yellowing.
It has excellent flow and leveling properties.
Recoatable and forms a flexible film coat.
It gives good performing results when used for fine semi-aniline effects.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 1.
Thus a quart makes 2 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 250ml and in quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (2 quarts).
Instruction:
1] Apply after color coat otherwise prep clean - use Prep-7.7 follows with Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] Satin finish - mix Matte with Gloss.
3] Fine spray evenly a panel at a time for even coverage avoiding drips and spits.
4] Buttery-feel, non-stick protection with a classic leather scent - use leather Scent-B.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...onditioner.jpg
Leather Tactile-Feel Conditioner (8)

Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-D
It’s for Aniline and Nubuck Wax Pull-up leathers, Bicast, Vachetta and Leather Flooring.
This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub-resistant protector that enhances a draggy-feel with a classic leather scent.
It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink.
And it does help to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing.
Its natural draggy-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion.
It is also used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance.
The drag produces an unforgettable familiar sound sweet to the ears when leather is rubbed.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 9½.
Thus a 120ml bottle makes 1.39 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 250ml and in Quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in 120ml (1.39 quarts), 250ml (2.77 quarts) and in Quart (10.5 quarts).
Note:
To reduce sheen and scent add Draggy Feel-79.
Instruction:
1] Identify, inspect and dry soil removal before application.
2] Shake well, mist spray and spread evenly with a foam brush.
3] Spray and wipe with absorbent towel for quick easy care.
4] Groom nubuck with Nubuck Brush-2 for a “finger writing effect”.

Micro-Pigmented Leather Problem Solving Guide

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...niline-LPG.jpg

"2. Will dyeing the leather make the good parts very dark and the faded parts less dark?
Dyeing is using “Transparent” color and what you describe fit the expectation. However the finish as identified from picture #1 of Post #11 clearly shows that it is colored by “opaque” pigmentation. It will block off existing color to give a mono-tone look – what you see is what you get!"

Not exactly sure what you are saying here. Are you saying that the picture indicates my original dye is opaque, but that the dye you supply is transparent? Or that you have both types and that I need to order opaque dye in black to cover all of the uneven pigment left in the wheel?

We supply both dyes and pigments; dyes are transparent and pigments are opaque.

To match the original finish, use pigment instead of dye.

Roger Koh

Hi Roger,

It has been over a year, but I am back and ready to finish the steering wheel. I have decided not to attempt to dye or use pigment. I just want to get the Impregnator-26 and the Topcoat Micro 72 Satin. Please advise as to how to do this.

Thanks,
DPM

Impregnator-26 is for specific leather structure damages, otherwise skip and go direct to the Micro Topcoat-72S (satin, matte is available as 72M). This is a clear topcoat that going to amplify how this season steering wheel looks – giving it a used well maintained appearance. You can fine sand using a 2000grit in between application to give it a smooth feel.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Roger,

You previously recommended the Impregnator-26 for the micro cracks in the top of the wheel. I just rehydrated and fatliquored anew, after 18 months, and the micro cracks seemed to have swelled up somewhat and filled in, so I may not need the 26. Can you tell me how to order the Micro Topcoat 72S ???

Thanks,
DPM

Please email me your shipping address and we will prepare you a PayPal invoice.

[email protected]

Roger Koh