Pigmented Two-tone: Cat Urine: How to Decontaminate Cat Urine from this Leather Sofa...Question by MC.

Picked up the Love seat today with the cat urine....

The left side has a lot of urine, while the right side has splatter.

The left back cushion (attached) has been sprayed by a female, who is acting out due to being moved to a new city.

The right back cushion just has some over spray.

The part of the bottom cushions that goes under the back cushions has a lot of urine on it, and it appears that it may be as old as 6 months.

The urine has not solidified, nor turned the leather gummy, but it has started to crack the leather in that area only.

The fronts of the cushion and backs appear to have a more fresh urine coating, approximately 2 - 3 weeks old.


The photos attached should be able to give you some detail.


Should I do all the steps that you outlined, or just some of them?

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...atUrine001.jpg


#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...atUrine002.jpg


#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...atUrine003.jpg


#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...atUrine004.jpg


#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...atUrine005.jpg


#6
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...atUrine024.jpg

Urine decontamination depends on a few factors:

1. The duration of the cat urine (roughly how many times).

2. How long ago did it happen?

3. Dry-up or still wet.

4. Does it has odor and how bad.

5. What type of leathers?

6. Penetrated or just on the surface coating?

How long or tedious to decontaminate it, depends on all of the above.


Please match up the pictures:

Which picture shows stains as old as 6 months, 2 – 3 weeks old, left side has lot of urine and the cracks?


Then we can talk about the relevance procedure to match the severity of the situation on each particular area.


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

#1, 2, 3, & 4 are the back cushions that according to the owner have been sprayed recently.

#5 is showing only light splatter on the back cushion.

#6 is the bottom cushion, showing the area where the back cushion sits on top. This area is starting to show cracking, and has a dryer and more stiff feel to the hand.

Picture #6 is not sharp enough to determine if it is cracking or just deep creases (coarse-breaks).

Cracking is either finish cracking or structure included.

That may need finish repair or bonding repairs.

Deep creases is a sign of diminishing fatliquor that need hydrating and fatliquoring.

From the pictures it looks like this is a non-absorbent leathers (need confirmation from you).

And this is an antique finish that has secondary darker colors that created this molted design.

It is wise to know the leather finish leather type before we begin, just in case the finished is affected by the urine decontamination process that need refinishing.

Is the deck fabric cotton or synthetic that requires treatment too!


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

The photo is of medium to deep creasing, surface not cracked yet.

The leather is non-absorbent.

The material on the decking is synthetic, and I can treat it with our normal cleaning agents for cat urine.

I also plan on flipping the unit over, pulling some of the bottom material back, and treating the frame inside.

It appears that some of the pooling cat urine leaked through the decking onto the frame.

This is the recommended procedure for urine decontamination:

All products has to be tested against the weaken leather finishes prior to application.

To remove the uric acid (protein) component of the stain:
1] Use d’Protein11.0 – spray, dwell and agitate with leatherBrush1 and extract with a lint free paper rag until towel shows clean.

To neutralize the ammonia and phosphorus salt from shifting the pH of the stain higher that ultimately denatures the leather and deteriorates the finish.
2] Use d’Urine2.2 – spray, dwell and agitate with leatherBrush1 and extract with a lint free paper rag until towel shows clean.

To deodorize
3] Use d’Odor4.5 – spray, dwell and agitate with leatherBrush1 and extract with a lint free paper rag.

To clean off all residues
4] Use clean3.8 – spray, dwell and agitate with leatherBrush1 and extract with a lint free paper rag.

To acidify rinse to a healthy squeaky clean
5] Use rinse3.0 – spray, dwell and agitate with leatherBrush1 and extract with a lint free paper rag.

To acidify further if leather feels tacky or slimy.
6] Use acidifier2.0 - spray, dwell and agitate with leatherBrush1 and extract with a lint free paper rag.

To sterilize against micro-organism
7] Use d’Bacteria3.7 – spray, agitate and dwell.

To impart a non-stick buttery-feel with a classic leather scent.
8] Use leatherScent’B – Spray and spread with a foam brush.

Note:
The same treatment applies to other fabric and wooded frame too.
To control mold infestation on absorbent wooden frame and other absorbent material – use d’Mold3.6

Try it out, and share with us the outcome.


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®