2003 Mazda Infiniti M45 - y34 black leather, splotchy and dull discoloration after other conditioners

Hi I have a 2003 Infiniti m45, I Tried using leather conditioning products from Meguairs and 3M, as well as Lexol. I prefer the shiny look, But now they look far worse than when I started. They have seemingly now shown age since I just started trying to condition them, which is what the opposite of my expectation. Is there a treatment/process to bringing back the color and shine I once had? should I use a dye to restore the color? What products would you recommend?


#1
http://i.imgur.com/PLcjpZT.jpg




#2

http://i.imgur.com/ApKAbdN.jpg



#3


http://i.imgur.com/2SbYjwL.jpg





#4
http://i.imgur.com/i9JCmGU.jpg




#5

http://i.imgur.com/7lFJKsS.jpg





#6
http://i.imgur.com/ytMXpju.jpg



#7


http://i.imgur.com/Tw7Xad8.jpg

This last pic is close how they used to look on the seat back
my leather is coated correct?

>>> should I use a dye to restore the color?
No! That will be an overkilled!

>>> my leather is coated correct?
Yes, basically there are three coating above the leather crust – the Adhesor-73 sealer and adhesion coating, the Micro-54 color coating and the MicroTop-54 top coating in its original equivalent when comes to refinishing it.


>>> I tried using leather conditioning products from Meguairs and 3M, as well as Lexol. I prefer the shiny look, but now they look far worse than when I started. They have seemingly now shown age since I just started trying to condition them, which is what the opposite of my expectation. Is there a treatment/process to bringing back the color and shine I once had?

What we see clearly on the last pictures are accumulation of solids that stays on the perforations, seams, scratches and textures. All these cloudy mess have to go, the technique is to use a detailing horsehair Brush-1 and toothpick to clear off the perforated holes. Leather-safe products used for perforated leathers are equivalent to products that are safe for cleaning suede. When view closely the perforated are not protected or color coated, they are just punch through and leave the edges as raw as suede. Leather-safe products are using products that have a pH value from 3 – 5. That is within the range of the leather pH neutral or iso-electric point or pI of the leather. Leather protein fiber is an amphoteric material and its leather constituents are not and for this leather type, there is the tanning agent and the fatliquor that is non-amphoteric that we have to be aware of from denaturing the leather or reverting back to rawhide. Thus restorative cleaning with leather pH chemistry integrity or leather-safe priority has to rely on a Prep cleaner with a pH value of 4.4. Prep-4.4 is about half the strength of Prep-7.7 but will be a safer product to use because of all the raw suede stitching and perforated holes.

>>> What products would you recommend?
Prep-4.4 for a detail restorative cleaning to emulsify all the unwanted solid accumulation is the first choice, second choice is Degreaser-2.2 and third choice is Prep-7.7. System cleaning for each restorative cleaning would have to be tied up with match product system, thus:

A: Restorative Cleaning
1: Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 or
2: Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 or
3: Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Acidifier-2.0

B: Leather Rejuvenating (below surface leather structure)
1: Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0

C: Non-stick, rub-resistant Protection:
1: Protector-B+

We will go into more details in each of the above steps when you are ready.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]


Either add Prep-4.4 and Acidifier to this kit or replace the Prep-7.7

Attachment 3624
Leather Doctor Kit Ap3 – Auto Pigmented (perforated) Leather Care Kit
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...Kit-Ap3/Detail
Leather Doctor® Kit Ap3, auto pigmented (perforated) leather care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system designed for keeping leather interior at their highest level of appearance while maintaining their structural chemistry integrity and enhancing their suppleness with needle holes tear strength. Auto leathers are often under hot sun and those exposed to thermal heating during cold season dries out their fat and oil sooner. The first place to check for leather dryness is the stitching holes, if they are perfectly round the leather is healthy, dried out leathers will show signs of elongation or splits. The diminishing of the fat and oil will results in stiffness to the leather and when flexed or stretched during used will lead to cracks or rips first to the stitching holes. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to hydrate the stick together fibers in these weak points prior to fat and oil replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple with increase tensile strength. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness, tearing and cracking. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub resistant protection with a buttery feel that makes sliding in and out of seat smoothly. The rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear especially to the side bolster. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 respectively to the steering wheel leather helps reduce greasy sticky soiling build-up. Removing of unwanted stains such as the common new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-7.7. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system.

Ok I have ordered the kit, where do I start?

Prep-7.7 comes with the Kit P3.

Did you have Degreaser-2.2 or Prep-4.4?

Below are the options we discuss depends on what you may have and I will gives specific instructions for your peculiar problems.

A: Restorative Cleaning
1: Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 or
2: Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 or
3: Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Acidifier-2.0

unfortunately I just ordered the p3 kit, I have the prep 7.7, forgot to order the prep 4.4 and acidifier.

We will do a test using picture #2 from your original post.

Cut the paper towel from the kit about a third size from left to right (leave top and bottom with excess) of this section and place it onto the center.

Apply Prep-7.7 onto the paper and use horsehair Brush-1 to work it through without any airspace in-between.

One session of Prep-7.7 dwell time is up to 72hrs.

Inspection is done at interval of 4, 8, 12 or 24 hours period to check for satisfaction.

If at any interval time the stains are gone and being “reverse transferred” through the paper towel, the mission is accomplished, sticky residue is clean with Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 for a healthy squeaky feel.


Here is an example you might want to preview for better understanding what we are trying to achieve, different problem, similar technique to “reverse transfer” leather surface contamination neatly, using this proven LeatherSafe™ technology - http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...o-you-suggests


Must see if you are doing it right before dwell time begins!

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

http://i.imgur.com/KsC7itp.jpg
Ok is this what you mean. Not sure if i used enough prep 7.7, but want to be able to finish the rest of the seats too.

This is meant for a test on one third to the center of this side non-perforated section to compare the result with the other 2/3 from each side.

From what we observed, the result will be patchy of blotchy as the entire paper towel is not entirely tight with the surface of the leather without any air space – it should looks all evenly black with no whiteness to the towel to be correctly done.

To correct the placement of the towel:

1: Place Prep-7.7 onto one end, hold down the towel and work with horsehair Brush-1 towards the opposite direction, stretching the towel a little at the same time so that it clings tight onto the surface. As I said this is only a test and one small square onto the center will do the job. When done right, the saturated paper towel becomes an extension of the leather surface to allow the suspended soiling particulates to wick through it rather than still remaining on the leather surface. With satisfaction, you can then follows the success throughout the entire leather surface section by section.

Let see again if you are doing it right!

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]