Landau semi aniline ottoman (2of2)

hey roger this is pat ive been busy around the shop sorry it took a bit to get back to you. this ottoman im still waiting to hear from the client if they want a full restoration or not. i will send you the swatch as soon as i hear back from the client. this one has some concerns of shallow scratches or scuffs and some water marks and rings from a cup just wanted to get your advice on how to treat the marks without getting too aggressive on it. thanks again

1a Scope:
Attachment 10024

1b side 1

Attachment 10025
1c side 2

Attachment 10026
1d side 3

Attachment 10027
1e side 4

Attachment 10028

2a concerns
Attachment 10029

2b concerns
Attachment 10030

i meant to use this image as 2a.

Attachment 10031

>>> this one has some concerns of shallow scratches or scuffs

Scratches or scuffs when repaired with Topcoats like AnilineTop-76G (in concentrates) will have less of a darkening. Otherwise, use Bond-3D and smooth out with Bond-7A.


>>> and some water marks

Watermarks that browns typically are from solutions of alkaline (pH value above 7) solution.
pH balancing is performed with the CleanPro-1.5 > Acidifier-2.0 system (note the 1.5 and 2.0 represent the pH value of the products). Note that alkalinity browns and acidity lightens.

Some marks may be old bloodstains with darker outer rings. Blood is a protein that also binds into the leather protein fibers that will need ProteinRemover-9.9 to dislodge the protein binding and pH balanced with a low pH value Acidifier-2.0 rinse. The next continuous secondary process is to remove the iron rusty component of the old bloodstain with TarnishRemover-1.3 in a redox (reduction-oxidation) process then pH balanced back with Basifier-8.8 to the pH neutral of the leather of around pH value 3 to 5, for leather chemistry integrity, otherwise acidic rotting sets in.


>>> and rings from a cup

A cupping mark on an aniline leather could be possible from the drinks it contains, possibly a coffee or any drinks from vegetables and plants. All vegetables and plants derive tannin stain is removed with TanninRemover-3.5 and rinsed with Rinse-3.0.

thanks for the advice roger I got approval from the client on price im gonna be sending you out the swatch today.

>>> im gonna be sending you out the swatch today.

You need color matching if you need an "opaque" color Micro-54 - it will become pigmented finishes (what you see, is what you get).

A transparent dyestuff like Aniline-76 will require a uniform appearance otherwise the stain marks just show through. And to retain an aniline transparent finishing the darkest stain is the color required to camouflage it. I hope it makes sense to you.

i know what your saying. for the most part the rings lightened up enough to be barely visible i didnt have any luck with the dark marks that were caused by some sort of dribble like blood or some other protein or tannin stain. but i think we should go ahead with an aniline dye and keep it as natural as possible.

Some marks can be blocked with Micro-54 just to camouflage and give it a transparent dye coating to remain as much as aniline as possible is one option.

that seems like a good plan the customer understands and is okay if theres a couple marks showing through because the ottoman is over 10 years old but i should still try to the best of my ability to hide what i can. So if i read that correct your saying to use a micro 54 color matched to try and cover the dark marks up before proceeding with an aniline dyes?

Use a fine point bristle brush and fine block with a color-matched Micro-54 after Adhesor-73. Adhesor-73 may be scrub with a fine white 3M nylon pad to removed deteriorating finishing prior to dye coating it for a more durable lasting refinishing.

hey roger its pat. im pretty sure i can custom a micro 54 color to help hide the couple spots left over i just wanted to double check with you and see if received the swatch for the aniline dye match yet.

Hey roger its pat so this piece was looking pretty good after the couple spots and hydration im just getting it prepped and ready for once the dye comes in. heres a picture of before adhesor:
1A:
Attachment 10081

after i used adhesor it seemed to darken certain areas of the leather and the color never came back. i was curious if this will be corrected during the dye process or if theres something i should do before proceeding. i dont believe i scrubbed too hard and i tried to get the whole pannel as evenly wet as possibly. heres a picture of after the adhesor:
2A:
Attachment 10082

2B
Attachment 10083

just wanted to add that the side panel in picture 2B has some stretch marks i know it looks like drip lines.

>>> after i used adhesor it seemed to darken certain areas of the leather and the color never came back.

These dark areas are topcoat (AnilineTop-76G) damaged areas, revealed with Adhesor-73.


>>> i was curious if this will be corrected during the dye process or if theres something i should do before proceeding.

A transparent dyestuff has to be darker to camouflage this darkening effect.

Options:
1- Refinishing to a darker color will even out the difference in appearance.
2- Because these darken areas are without topcoat, recommended that the Adhesor-73 is removed with
Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 together with the existing deteriorating topcoat to even out surface absorbency. Use Surfactancy-3.6 to inspect damaged topcoat.
3- You may want to skip Adhesor-73 for light coloring, Instead use AnilineTop-76G to even out absorbency with less darkening effect, prior to Dye refinishing.
4- If the raw grain is not sealed for even absorbency, it will be very difficult to have an even appearance for light color refinishing.
5- Recommended that all aniline leather redyeing use a darker color to reduce technical difficulties.


I suggest you have some training - at least by "Skype" at US$99 an hour to get familiar, with the pros and cons of leather refinishing.