Aniline (Wax Pull-up) - Restoration Hardware - Help!

I have a RH sectional that I have begun cleaning. I was following the guide here.

I cleaned another RH chair using the same process minus the prep-4.4 and it worked amazing. I couldn't have been more pleased. Because the RH sectional had some more stains I decided to use the prep-4.4 but the result is scaring me and I need some guidance please!

I used the brush-1 to agitate the prep-4.4 and let it sit for about 20 minutes. I then sprayed on cleaner 3.8 and when I was agitating that with a brush a brown looking mixture was coming up. I would gently wipe it with a towel and a brown looking substance was coming off which I assume was the body oil. I then sprayed with Rinse 3.0.

But now it has this raw feeling to it. I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area and my biggest fear is turning the leather into rawhide and completely ruining our expensive sectional.

Attachment 5143Attachment 5144Attachment 5145

>>> I have a RH sectional that I have begun cleaning. I was following the guide here.

But now it has this raw feeling to it. I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area and my biggest fear is turning the leather into rawhide and completely ruining our expensive sectional.

When comparing the two leather condition both originally the same from Restoration Hardware.
The one in question is far more aged, micro-cracked and neglected than the other, so the experience is scarily true.
This experience may vary from unused areas to used areas – “I cleaned another RH chair using the same process minus the prep-4.4 and it worked amazing. I couldn't have been more pleased. Because the RH sectional had some more stains I decided to use the prep-4.4 but the result is scaring me and I need some guidance please!”


>>> I used the brush-1 to agitate the prep-4.4 and let it sit for about 20 minutes. I then sprayed on cleaner 3.8 and when I was agitating that with a brush a brown looking mixture was coming up. I would gently wipe it with a towel and a brown looking substance was coming off which I assume was the body oil. I then sprayed with Rinse 3.0.

This Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system is for restorative or corrective cleaning and the result will vary accordingly to the existing condition of the leather from smooth unused areas under or near to the back cushion to the heavily used cracked and wrinkled areas. A restorative cleaning is to remove foreign soiling and may also exaggerate existing condition as the soiling that hides the existing condition may be removed and will need further corrective measures to improved the existing condition.

Prior to cleaning the surface damages may be detected both visual and by feel of hand. “Mud cracking” effect suggest the dryness of the leather of its original fatliquor (ionic charged fat and oil) perhaps with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent moisture meter may read less than 5% from the original 14% when dry. Leather rejuvenation is proceed with first using Hydrator-3.3 to relax the ‘mud-cracking’ effect and could be done up to 72hrs with cling wrapper to control evaporation. With visual and feel of hand we can see and feel the improvement and any unwanted creases and wrinkles are also work crosswise to reduce the coarse breaks. This hydrating treatment will also improve the overall softness with some hand massaging. When the general suppleness of the leather is improved the next phase is applying the Fatliquor-5.0 with repeat each cycle the water contents evaporates. The higher the percentage of fat and oil left behind the softer and stronger the leather is. Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leather and without it or below the optimum level the leather dries out and cracks. Without resorting to applying additional color Hydrator-3.3 will activate the dormant dyestuff to resurface as well and the fatliquor magnify the color richness.

Fashion Effect rejuvenating is done with WaxEffect-8.6. The leather is saturated for an even appearance after the Fatliquor-5.0 process. WaxEffect-8.6 saturates the leather to rejuvenate the pull-up effect below surface and will also deposit wax crystalline on the surface to be activated with heat blower or hair dryer. Micro-cracks will be healed by it to a degree less noticeable with the tips of our fingers.

Further surface smoothness is corrected with AnilineTop-21G or the heavy-duty version of AnilineTop-76G. This top coating process is done with fine sanding in between drying of the topcoat until satisfaction.

The final topping is with leather scented Protector-D+ or the scentless version of D.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
[email protected]


Product information:

A complete color restoration Kit-Aw7.cl from this link:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw7...finishing-kit/

A topcoat restoration Kit-Aw6.tc from this link:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw6...finishing-kit/

Attachment 5152
Leather Doctor® Kit-Aw7.cl, aniline wax pull-up leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing after degreasing in a holistic approach. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains from the bare head and hands that show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the oil, grease and sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or show signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Wax Effect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen. Protector-D+ enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline wax pull-up leathers topcoat and dyestuff refinishing system.

Attachment 5153

After Applying Prep-4.4 & Cleaner 3.8 I seem to have a major problem?!
I have a RH wax pullup sectional and I was following Roger's guide here: http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...er-Care-System.

I started at the 1st phase of restorative cleaning:

1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1. Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time. 

2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean. 

3. Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extracts until it shows clean. 

4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extracts to a squeaky-clean. 

5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating. 


But the leather is looking and feeling odd after applying the prep and cleaner... the picture from the camera is looking dirtier than it looks to the eye but the leather has a raw feel to it. Whatever I spray on it instantly soaks in. What in the world is going on?!



>>> Whatever I spray on it instantly soaks in. What in the world is going on?!

The leather prior cleaning surface has developed surface cracking and this porosity is not found on unused areas.
It will need further processing to correct this surface cracking.


>>> the picture from the camera is looking dirtier than it looks to the eye.

Penetrated soiling has been suspended and wick to the surface; it will need brushing them off with the detailed horsehair Brush-1.
Micro shrinkage takes place (Van der Waal or London Forces - the law of physic at work) and when the leather is stretched it will lighten up


>>> the leather has a raw feel to it

Micro-cracking or ‘mud-cracking’ and will need further processing:
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > WaxEffect-8.6 > AnilineTop-21G or 76G (heavy-duty).

Thanks for the reply.

1. Will applying the hydrator and fatliquor work if there is a coat of wax on it?

2. Is the 'surface cracking' that you mention the same as 'mud cracking'? If not, how do I distinguish and also fix it?

3. Regarding mud cracking, after applying the fatliquor and waiting for it to dry, can I immediately apply another fatliquor treatment if mud cracking persists or should I do another hydrator first?

>>> 1. Will applying the hydrator and fatliquor work if there is a coat of wax on it?

From Post #3 picture, I don’t think you have a wax coating anymore to those crack areas.
Work out the creases and wrinkles first with Hydrator-3.3 and only satisfaction that Fatliquor-5.0 continues.


>>> 2. Is the 'surface cracking' that you mention the same as 'mud cracking'? If not, how do I distinguish and also fix it?

It is the degree of cracking from micro to macro. Cracking is due to dryness or shrinkage where the original fatliquor evaporates or leaches out.
Leather rejuvenating is first by Hydrator-3.3 to satisfaction prior to replenishing Fatliquor-5.0 (ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil).


>>> 3. Regarding mud cracking, after applying the fatliquor and waiting for it to dry, can I immediately apply another fatliquor treatment if mud cracking persists or should I do another hydrator first?

Mud cracking effect is rectified with Hydrator-3.3 first to relax and separates the stick together fiber and becomes visually apparent when the leather is plump up (a little moisture should oozes out of the leather when gently press between thumb and fingers. The coarse creases should also be stretched crosswise to ease off the coarse creases. When the leather is hydrated the micro cracks disappear just like a little rain on a mud-cracked pond. It is maintain this hydrating condition at 25% moisture level that Fatliquor-5.0 continues. And as each evaporation cycle of the fatliquor water content more is applied up to about 14% fat and oil moisture level content retain in the leather structure when completely dry.

Regarding my first question, before I had spoken with you I had given the coushins to a local person to try and fix. They returned it recently and I discovered they simply applied multiple wax coatings without any hydration...

So will the wax affect the hydration and fatliquor?

>>> So will the wax affect the hydration and fatliquor?

Remember that your original is ‘Wax Pull-up’ different from just ‘Wax’.
And there are variations of wax in the market place.

"Wax pull-up leathers derive its color from dyestuff and effect wax that gives the leather a lively distressed look. When this leather is pulled, stretched or scratched, the waxes dissipate characteristically and become lighter in those areas. Sunlight and stretching through high wear areas are two main indications that the infused wax needs replenishing. As this, effect wax behaves just like the primary fatliquor they do diminish through ageing and will need periodic replenishing. Besides contributing to the color intensity, it improves in water shedding effect. Effect wax when applied to the leather penetrates while some transforms into fine cloudy crystal and remains on the surface. The dried surface white powdery deposits are then heat activated and when they melt, they coat the surface with a glossy sheen. In a restorative care cycle an urethane gloss topcoats is applied to restore its original appearance."

The unknown wax may affect the original finish type – you have to try it out.
It may retard any hydration that is necessary to plumps up the leather structure – you have to try it out.
It may affect the surface tension – thus have a blotchy appearance due to uneven absorbent rate – try it out.
It may also retard the original topcoat (Aniline-21G) thus not be able to restore back to original sheen – you have to try it out.

It may be simpler to remove the unknown wax entirely and get back to the original ‘tannery’ system.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor

I'm not sure whether she applied a pull up wax or something else unfortunately. I'll try hydration of a test area in a week or so after I return from a trip.

What is involved in removing wax?

P. S. Thank so much for the advice!

>>> I'm not sure whether she applied a pull up wax or something else unfortunately.

Whatever wax being used, it is still not a sound sequence or logic to do so (just like putting the cart before the horse).
I suggest you bring this forum discussion to her attention.



>>> I'll try hydration of a test area in a week or so after I return from a trip.

Like to know how you could even out the surface tension – that is to have an even absorption surface.
It also has to depends on the type of wax used either forms a ‘continuous’ or ‘discontinuous’ film.



>>> What is involved in removing wax?

Leather Doctor Stripper-2.3 is generally used for stripping of surface finishes.
Note that stripping will also removes existing original fatliquor leaving the leather stiffer when dry.
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system has to be followed through immediately while the leather is at this wet stage.



Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor

I am working on some of the back cushions and finished using a heat gun on the wax. I then proceeded to apply anilinetop 21g to a cushion and the result is cloudy. compared to a cushion that I did not apply the anilinetop to yet.

Why is it looking worse? Is anilinetop not to be applied after waxeffect?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattz

I am working on some of the back cushions and finished using a heat gun on the wax. I then proceeded to apply anilinetop 21g to a cushion and the result is cloudy. compared to a cushion that I did not apply the anilinetop to yet.

Why is it looking worse? Is anilinetop not to be applied after waxeffect?

---

Six coats and lots of sanding later it finally looks great!

If you have some pictures I may help you see better ...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

If you have some pictures I may help you see better ...

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The first is a back cushion I finished. Took maybe 6 coats of anilinetop 21g and sanding. The second is the seat cushion. It is worse off so it might take more. Unless there is something I am missing...

Back cushion finished:
Attachment 5444

Seat cushion with one top coat no sanding:
Attachment 5445

>>> The first is a back cushion I finished. Took maybe 6 coats of anilinetop 21g and sanding. The second is the seat cushion. It is worse off so it might take more. Unless there is something I am missing...

Using the heavy-duty AnilineTop-76G version will reduce the number of coatings.

Observation:
1 - I see dull lineal streaking on first picture.
2 – Coarse breaks, creases or wrinkles on picture #2 may be further improves otherwise the AnilineTop-76G makes the leather surface less absorbent until the next restoration, good to rejuvenate the leather sufficiently prior to topcoating it. Any darkening effect is further stretched lighter prior to topcoating it.

Tips - Topcoating:
1 – A soft dabbing brush action application eliminates lineal streaks.
2 – When using the same brush for multiple applications, the product may have dried up on the brush that gives traction to the brushing stroke. Complete removing any dried residue helps reduce streaking or completely used a new brush.
3 – Use as little a force as possible that allows the brush to have a floating effect to reduce streaking.
4 - A small foam 3” roller may helps after the brush application to eliminate any streaking.

Thanks!

I found out something interesting. I had excellent, and I mean excellent, results by applying wax in-between top coats. For example, wax, 2 top coats, wax, 2 top coats, wax, 4 top coats and done. The results are incredible aside from the streaking from my brush. I will order more product soon and use a sprayer to eliminate them.

I have a few (okay, a lot) more questions if you don't mind. I found out that I get myself into trouble if I don't fully understand things...

1. General Questions

• What does "towel extract" mean? Rubbing, scrubbing, patting, other?
• How much surface area will 120ml of stripper and degreaser work on?
• How much surface area will 250ml of acidifier work on?

2. Regarding Stripper 2.3

• What does it mean when it says it removes "old finishes"? Just the top coat? Top coat + wax? Or more? I'm trying to figure out it's purpose.
• It is safe to immediately degrease after stripping, or must one hydrate and fatliquor first?
• In either case, should it be left to dry before degreasing/hydrating?

3. Regarding Degreaser 2.2 and Acidifier 2.0

• What if after degreasing (but before acidifier) the stain is not gone from towel extraction? Should I use more degreaser and wait another 30 minutes? Or must I immedately proceed to acid->hydrate->fatliquor and only then try my luck at degreasing again?
• The same question at the acidifier stage. What if towel extraction isn't giving me that squeaky clean noise?

4. Adhesor-73

• Is this needed? I read it helps the top coat bond with the wax. When I first applied the top coat the wax caused it to bead up but after some continued light brushing it finally absorbed. How would I know if I need this product because it is just as expensive as anilinetop-21g.

Thanks in advance!

Please show picture of the after Post #3 how it looks?


>>> I found out something interesting. I had excellent, and I mean excellent, results by applying wax in-between top coats. For example, wax, 2 top coats, wax, 2 top coats, wax, 4 top coats and done. The results are incredible aside from the streaking from my brush. I will order more product soon and use a sprayer to eliminate them.

Did you wait till the WaxEffect-86 turns cloudy, then activate with heat blower or hot hair dryer before you applied the AnilineTop-21G/76G?

As for eliminating the streaks you may use the lint-free Towel-T5 as application – a soft touch will eliminate the streaks. Fine sanding with the 2000grid helps as well. Excess spray may need to be blot up with the Towel-T5 or equivalent – you will get it right eventually.


I have a few (okay, a lot) more questions if you don't mind. I found out that I get myself into trouble if I don't fully understand things...

1. General Questions

>>> What does "towel extract" mean? Rubbing, scrubbing, patting, others?

“Towel extract” is to remove surface soiling. A one-foot square cotton white terry towel is recommended for high absorbency and ease of use. Folding over to a new surface once the surface is soiled. Physical techniques may include all those mentioned as long as it does not cause physical damages to the leather.


>>> How much surface area will 120ml of stripper and degreaser work on? How much surface area will 250ml of acidifier work on?

One ml or gm of any liquid should able to spread a square foot of non-absorbent surface, thus 120ml covers 120sq ft and 250ml covers 250 sq ft.
In practice, the coverage will vary depending on absorbency of surface and coverage varies accordingly.


2. Regarding Stripper 2.3
>>> What does it mean when it says it removes "old finishes"? Just the top coat? Top coat + wax? Or more? I'm trying to figure out it's purpose.

In reference to Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers, the “old finishes” would be surface finishes such as the wax and the topcoat. Some surface dyestuff may be removed as well to a clean grain. A horsehair Brush-1, Eraser-4 helps besides towel extract.


>>> It is safe to immediately degrease after stripping, or must one hydrate and fatliquor first?

Stripping, degreasing will also removes some of the existing fatliquor and the leather is recommended to be allowed to be let dry only after the fatliquor process, thus this wet phase is a continuous process starting with Stripper-2.3 > Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0/Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. Note that ages leather already has very low percentage of fatliquor content, new from tannery is about 14%, when aged most will read below 7%, and with further removing during the stripping and degreasing process, the leather fibrous structure is quite empty of fatliquor and when it dries the “Van der Waal or London Forces” phenomenon sets in the leather stiff up and may leads to cracks. To loosen the stick together fiber, it will need Hydrator-3.3 to separates and relax them prior to Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing. Thus by a continuous wet process that is removes up to 75% moisture contents from each process before continuing the next until the final Fatliquor-5.0 (more than one application) prior allowing to dry. Fast drying will stiffen the leather; slow drying will produce a softer leather to the hand. (Fatliquor moisture level is read from a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter


>>> In either case, should it be left to dry before degreasing/hydrating?

Not ideal to let leather dry when there is insufficient (less than 7% fatliquor moisture content) – it will stiff up, shrink and cracks accentuated.


3. Regarding Degreaser 2.2 and Acidifier 2.0
>>> What if after degreasing (but before acidifier) the stain is not gone from towel extraction? Should I use more degreaser and wait another 30 minutes?

Cleaning stains below leather surface will depends on how much more is still below surface just like an iceberg. A more even appearance will indicate that not much is left below. A contrasting appearance where the stain is will indicate that more is still below. Degreaser-2.2 will need to reach below the darkening appearance in order to emulsify and suspend the soiling. Towel extraction will determine if any suspended soiling is picked up. Dwell time may be up to 30 minutes and before it dries completely (25%) Acidifier-2.0 is flooded to move more suspension to the surface.


>>> Or must I immedately proceed to acid->hydrate->fatliquor and only then try my luck at degreasing again?

At 25% total moisture level Acidifier-2.0 comes in keeping the soiling particulates suspended and extracted to 25% level and continue with Hydrator-3.3 helping the more efficient water movement in the fibrilary structure and may stay up to 72 hours with moisture oozing out when pressed between fingers and thumb, having Towel-T5 set up for a reverse transfer and cling wrapping it to control evaporation. Towel-T5 is changed when soiling is picked up during inspection for an even appearance. When inspection does not show any darkening rings and towel shows clean, chances are that the below soiling has all wicked up. The plastic control wrapping is removed and allow the excess moisture content to wick through the Towel-T5 up to the 25% total moisture level. Fatliquor-5.0 is introduced with a few in between before dry (25%) application and Towel-T5 is again place over with Hydrator-3.3 to seal it without any air space and let it dry. Any foreign soiling will still be trapped by the Towel-T5 and is peel off when crispy dry. Surface is worked with Eraser-4.


>>> The same question at the acidifier stage. What if towel extraction isn't giving me that squeaky-clean noise?

This sticky-feeling detect by hand is often the sweat-contaminated areas, that the shifting of the leather surface alkaline may have displaced the tanning agents. This sticky areas has to be treated with Acidifier-2.0 with Towel-T5 and control evaporation up to 72 hours. The acidification of the leather amphoteric protein fibers with a low pH value of 2.0 charges it ionic more positive (+ve) like a weak battery that need to be charged. Charging the leather protein fiber ionic more positive (+ve) increases the ionic attraction of the negative (-ve) tanning agents. Sufficient dwelling during the Acidifier-2.0 helps to redistribute the fugitive tanning agents to the alkaline overexposure areas – thus returns the leather to a squeaky clean with pH chemistry integrity then still remaining a tacky feeling.


4. Adhesor-73
>>> Is this needed? I read it helps the topcoat bond with the wax. When I first applied the topcoat the wax caused it to bead up but after some continued light brushing it finally absorbed. How would I know if I need this product because it is just as expensive as anilinetop-21g.

This is as necessary, as long as the topcoat adheres to the WaxEffect-8.6 heat activated surface.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator / Practitioner / Consultant / Instructor / Coach

Thanks for the detailed information! I am really starting to understand this now lol!

Here are the shots of the seat after multiple wax in between top coat treatments. I placed an order for some 76 so I can't eliminate any streaks until it arrives. But I am more than pleased with the result given how out of shape this thing was...

Also, yes, I waited for the wax to turn cloudy, heat gunned it, and let it cool before top coating.
Attachment 5479

Attachment 5480

Is this post #17 the after picture of post #3?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

Is this post #17 the after picture of post #3?

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It is of #13. I am still working on #3. I might run out of topcoat so 3 might be a week or two.

I received my order today but it seems the Anilinetop 76G is short by about 30%. It's a 1:2 ratio so if I add 2.5" of distilled water it only gives 5" which is far shy from a quart.Attachment 5524

Please see the Quart-Fill bottle, it looks correct.
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/anilinetop-76/


Ratio is work by weight

You also see the shipping weight as specified as O.372kg.

As compared with the Quart-RTU bottle of 1.002

Minus the bottle the net content should be 0.372kg minus 0.056kg = 316gm

1 part 316gm by weight of AnilineTop76G to 2 parts 632gm of distilled water = 948gm

1Quart is 946gm in weight or 32oz.

If you add 632gm (weight) of distilled water it should be right as explained above.

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks.

By the way, that 76g is crazy! Forget the 21g. I want to spray 76g on everything :D because the result is awesome. I dont have a great sprayer so I had to do ever so light brushing to get the spray spread. But given where I started from the result is more than satisfying. I'll get some pics when I finish the arms and non cushion areas.

AnilineTop-76G is the 'heavy-duty' version, that's why.

Like to see some of the results that you have achieve, but also show the before for comparison.

So here is the final before and after. It's not perfect, and it's my first attempt, but I am happy and that's all that matters lol.

Attachment 5531

Attachment 5548

The gloss is beautiful!

May you show us a comparison of your post #3.

Here are two shots of #3. It's hard to capture a good shot due to the gloss + lighting but you can get a general idea. This cushion is 10% darker than the rest because it went through more treatments but overall it's hard to tell a difference unless you know what you are looking for. We have sat on the cushions now so the wrinkles are from the wax which is expected. It looks like dryness but I couldn't have hydrated this sucker any more than it currently is. I will probably apply another treatment of hydrator,fatliquor,wax, and anilinetop in 4 months and then gradually allow for more time between coats. This sectional wasn't loved for about 10 years so it's taken (and will continue to take) a lot of love to bring it back.

Attachment 5552

Attachment 5553

Is there a zipper to this cushion?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

Is there a zipper to this cushion?

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Yes. Are you going to suggest stuffing it so that it is less prone to wrinkles? If so, what type of stuffing would you recommend? I have read that batting will compress too quickly.

The leather is not supple enough!

See the coarse creases and wrinkles and you want to get rid of it.

Work from the suede side with the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.

You do not need to mess up the new finishes.

What do you think?

I guess I could try. It can't hurt.

So hydrator on suede side, wait for it to absorb about an hour, then fatliquor, fatliquor, fatliquor, fatliquor?

>>> wait for it to absorb about an hour

Recommended it to be absorbed, control evaporation with a cling wrap and let it dwell up to 72hours.

The cling wrap is then removed and the leather stretched of unwanted creases and wrinkles to satisfaction.

Let it almost dry when towel does not pick up any moisture or about 25% moisture level.

Fatliquor to saturate . . . when water content evaporates . . . repeat saturation . . . let water content evaporates until satisfaction.

Before fully dry put back the cushion and let it dry from there slowly.

Remember to record the amount of Fatliquor-5.0 used, so that you may want to use the same amount for the other cushion to have the same level of fatliquor (fat and oil) content.

If the fatliquor content is periodically rejuvenated, the leather will live forever, the suppleness of the leather depends on it.

Fatliquor-5.0 is the lifeblood of the leather, but do not forget the Hydrator-3.3 doing all the hard work to relax the leather prior.