Can you recommend what I should use on a vintage Chanel soft leather bag, it is dry, and I would like to strip and redye black. and what do I do for top coat after the dye, its a soft lamb leather, thank you
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>>> Can you recommend what I should use on a vintage Chanel soft leather bag
Use this Chanel Aniline Lambskin guide as reference:
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And most of the products for general refinishing are found in Kit-A7.cl refills and relevant products are available as individual bottles
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http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a7-...finishing-kit/
Leather Doctor® Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.
I'm just thinking on how I'm going to do the chain part when my bag comes that I am going to repair, here are a couple photos again, thinking maybe using a q-tip ?
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>>> thinking maybe using a q-tip ?
Q-Tips would have lint problems.
I have tried both refinishing without removal and with complete removal and find that a complete removal would be a better option. Use soft varnishing brush or facial brushes otherwise airbrushing with a Paasche will produce a professional result. Best optimise pressure for the Paasche is 80 to 100psi.
The above post #3, picture #3 will need Bond-3D for repairs to smooth out the damages.
>>> so the bag came today, so I have sprayed alot of Hydrating on and then sprayed alot of Fatliquoring. do I wrap the bag up a bit with the clear wrap for up to 72 hours,
Step-1 Stuff up the bag with a bag of rice in a plastic bag to keep the bag in shape.
Step-2 Saturate the dry leather with Hydrator-3.3 until a little moisture ooze out of the leather when press between fingers and thumb.
Step-3 You may cling-wrapped it out put in an airtight bag to prevent evaporation that will keep the Hydrator-3.3 within the leather structure to relax it and opens or separate all fibers for breathing space and this may be let dwell up to 72hrs. Inspect at intervals to inspect and test the moisture content by pressing, if it becomes too dry top up the moisture level again. Until the leather is very limp that Fatliquor-5.0 commence.
Step-4 The damp leather may be towel extract until towel shows clean and when the towel shows dry Fatliquor-5.0 can be replenished in the same manner. Leave it to slow natural drying and may continue to replenish as the water contents evaporates leaving behind the ‘fat’ to plumps the leather for fullness or puffiness and the oil contents to lubricates the leather for suppleness.
>>> I wanted to do this before the prep, because of the dryness, then i thought when this is dry, I will start with the prep and redo the hydrating and fatliquoring?
Correct, Prep cleaning or degreasing will take off some of the fatliquor as well and we need to be repeat step -2, 3 and 4.
ok, thank you very much, yes I did stuff the bag first, I used a nice soft cotton pillowcase, :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
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here is a couple pictures of progress, I also wrap chain in wrap before inserting inside plastic bag
HI Roger, well so far so good, I am finding out that this Chanel handbag isnt originally brown, it was so dry it looked Brown, it actually is Black, and starting to look good, so now if I dont want to redye this bag afterall, after the hydrating and fatliquoing, what would be best for me to do with no dyeing, do I still use the rinse after I am done with the fatliquoing? I should still protect it , last step would be the gloss finish?
>>> HI Roger, well so far so good, I am finding out that this Chanel handbag isnt originally brown, it was so dry it looked Brown, it actually is Black, and starting to look good,
By hydrating with sufficient moisture level that is important and up to 72hrs dwelling will bring the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure to resurface, it should also relax the leather.
Fatliquoring will also contribute to the color intensity to enrich it.
Gloss topcoat will magnify and amplify it as well.
So the mention 3 steps will improve the color tremendously, otherwise you still be able to dye over it, but if there are repairs to be made you may need Bond-3D > Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-B system sequence.
>>> so now if I dont want to redye this bag afterall, after the hydrating and fatliquoing, what would be best for me to do with no dyeing, do I still use the rinse after I am done with the fatliquoing?
Any Fatliquor-5.0 residue that remains of the finishes has to be further drive into the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 (acting as a rinse).
>>> I should still protect it,
Protector-B is the last sequence to protect the finishes from friction rubs so as to reduce wear and also to impart a soft natural buttery-feel.
>>> last step would be the gloss finish?
AnilineTop-76G is before Protector-B.
After you have done the leather rejuvenating system (Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0) to replenish the leather dryness you may want to go back to do a restorative or degreasing cleaning thus your sequence would be:
Step-1: Stripping old and deteriorated finishes with Stripper-2.3 system.
Step-2: Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier.2.0 system.
Step-3: Other Identified Soiling or Stain Removal system with reference to the Guide in a continuous ‘wet-system’ with Step-1
Step-4: Leather Rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.
Step-5: Repairs with Impregnator-26 > Bond-3D accordingly.
Step-6: Aniline-76 transparent dye coating system.
Step-7: AnilineTop-76G topcoating system
Step-8: Protector-B or B+
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sure is turning out beautifully, this is only first steps,
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you can see the leather has been drinking up the fatliquor quit well, this is still only the beginning, very happy so far , :)
>>> you can see the leather has been drinking up the fatliquor quit well, this is still only the beginning, very happy so far
Remember that fatliquor is the lifeblood of leather.
In the lifetime of the animal (in this case is lamb) water, blood and nutrients flow through the skin to keep the skin healthy.
The skin becomes leather now will now need your help and generosity to supply the fat, oil and water to have a healthy plump and supple leather.
If this is continued being done periodically the leather will outlast our lives.
Leather can be stretch up to 60% and all depends on the amount of fatliquor in the leather structure.
The fat and oil will remain behind and the water content about 5 parts will evaporates and leave the leather with a natural transpiration.
That is to say the leather will also need to breathe to stay healthy.
Believe what I say?
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what a big big difference already, looks so gooooood
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:) will add more photos after second stage, looks so much better
Yes I do believe you! I have seen what happened already. AmazingQuote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
>>> do i have to remove any finish before adding new finish?
Any finishes should be removed just like prior varnishing of any restoration work - Use Stripper-2.3 transfer to a cotton towel and test out one square to see the appearance difference - it should be evenly dull.
If satisfactorily, the finishes should be stripped first before the repairs, otherwise the repair may be removed as well.
Stripping will also remove fatliquor and you may wish to go backwards of Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 and let dry before refinishing.
Dyeing is optional and may be skipped and go forward to top coating.
ok, thank you very much for your help and great advise, will let you know how to goes, :)
>>> I'm just letting it dry naturally now after using alot of the hydrator and fatliquor
How much did you use both the Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 - one bottle 250ml each or two bottles 250ml each?
hi, I used one bottle each, its dry now naturally, but the puffness did not come too much, I think I might use a bit of stripper now to get old finish off, then i will have to do the hydrator and fatliquor again before new finish
>>> I think I might use a bit of stripper now to get old finish off,
From your picture post #18, you may use a cotton swap as well and clean up alternate square to see any contrasting differences (show picture)
Note to avoid the stitching rows, go along it and not across it.
Getting the old deteriorated finishes off will produce a better appearance as the topcoat will magnifies and amplifies both the "beauty and the beast" you want the beautiful grains not old ugly finishes!
>>> WELL I am finished!! here are more photos of my finishing procedures
How did the repair at the edges turns out?
I believe you skip the dyeing and goes straight to topcoat it - right?
Did you remove the leather strip from the chain?
What do you think could be improved?
hi Roger, yes, I skipped the dye, i did strip of the old finish off the front , no I did not do the chain, I think with more practice I could do much better with stripping more and perhaps do a re dye, If i need to order more products do i do it here or do i email you?
>>> If i need to order more products do i do it here or do i email you?
If you know what you need go straight to order from the on-line store:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/
Email me [email protected] if you need help on deciding on the products.
ok, thank you,
Hi again RogerQuote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
I was wondering. Its only the front I used a cotton swab to remove the old finish. I noticed after Appling the new finish the whole handbag is nice buttery soft except where I removed old finish on front. Wonder why? Is there a way to get the buttery soft back to the front?
Thank you
>>> It’s only the front I used a cotton swab to remove the old finish. I noticed after Appling the new finish the whole handbag is nice buttery soft except where I removed old finish on front. Wonder why?
Removing the old finishes with Stripper-2.3 will also removes some of the fatliquor – did you rejuvenate it with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system thereafter?
>>> Is there a way to get the buttery soft back to the front?
It would be much more difficult as new topcoat will resist the absorbent rate to a degree (thus always remember the sequence of the entire process), it will become easier when the topcoat develops micro-crazing again.
Protector-B+ (leather-scented) or Protector-B (scentless) will impart a buttery-feel to it – have you applied?
yes I did the hydrator and fatliquor after, maybe if I add more of the protector B might help?
To improve structural softness or suppleness massage or flex it after fatliquoring will soften it.
To improve tactile-feel "buttery smoothness" Protector-B helps.
ok, thank you, I will order more too from your website and a couple other products,
hi, this morning i did add more hydrator and fatliqour, its nice and soft now! but i do notice fish like scales coming abit, would this be some of the new finish?
Lets see pictures!
i also placed an order today from your website, thank you again
>>> most of the scales I brushed off, heres one,,,, looks almost like the gloss finish didnt stay too well, maybe I did something wrong?
Here is the recommend procedure to correct the topcoat failure:
1 – Remove failed topcoat with Stripper-2.3.
2 – Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system – the main purpose for the Hydrator-3.3 after Fatliquor-5.0 again is to remove all fatliquor surface residue otherwise the fat and oil may interfere with new finishing.
3 – The surface is work with Eraser-4 to remove any surface deteriorating leather crust – just like rubbing our skin to remove dead cells.
4 – Any repairs that need damaged leather to be bond is done with Bond-3D.
5 – The entire leather surface is work over with Adhesor-73 with either the foam brush or the horsehair brush and use Towel-T5 to extract surface build-up – this is the foundation coating or primer coating or adhesion coating to ensure that new finishes will not peel.
6 – Dye coating follows.
7 – Top coating seals the dye coating.
8 – Protector-B/B+ protect the finishes.
A full system when practice will seldom need redo and that is what I practice and that is also why the products and tools are selected to form the makeup of this Kit-A7.cl with Bond-3D and Impregnator-26 as optional.
[email protected]
>>> is it ok to use meltonian shoe cream or wooly shoe cream on these soft leathers
You may ask the manufacturer of these products for whatever reasons you may have in mind.
I do not use them in my professional services so you may try it out and let us know your findings.
hi again Roger, thank you so much for these steps, I redid the Chanel flap, I think it turned out way better, and feels better, here are a couple pictures
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Looks good!
What do you think could be improved?
thanks, Im not sure what could be improved , what do you think?
Done any work to the chain leather strips?