Louis Vuitton - Leather Cracking and Stains.

Can I save this handbag?
What type of products I need?
Should I so it myself?
I have read the forum regarding all the Louis Vuitton handbag issues, it sound so complicate.
I notice some people make their handbag worst than prior to the usage of your products.
Should I even try it?
Please guide me through the complete process (including the very details steps, such as whether to use a dry towel; the time between one step to the next step.).
Thank you.

#1Louis Vuitton leather cracking.
Attachment 4223


#2
Attachment 4224

>>> Can I save this handbag?

From your pictures I see three main issues.
1 – Leather Cracklings.
Since this is a naked unfinished vegetable-tanned leather any repairs to the cracks will look unnatural and it is best to leave it as a natural crack. However, narrowing of the opening gap may be improved with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.
2 – Dark Stains.
Dark stains is probably from an oil or grease based source and degreasing is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0
3 – Browning Stains.
Browning stains are removed with Vachetta-2.8 a redox system.


>>> What type of products I need?

For the above 3 main issues, Leather Doctor Kit-V4 is what you need.


>>> Should I so it myself?
If you do most cleaning yourself example like facial, nails and hairs the same principle applies – it is all simple science and logic.
Who do you think will do a better job perhaps sending it to Leather Doctor?


>>> I have read the forum regarding all the Louis Vuitton handbag issues, it sounds so complicate.

The science or theory part may sounds complicated but in practice you just follow sensible instructions.


>>> I notice some people make their handbag worst than prior to the usage of your products.

It will be more helpful if you could give example and we learn from it or where goes wrong. It is wiser we learn the mistake from others.


>>> Should I even try it?
Leaving the crack alone, the rest is following instructions.
Cracking is the deminishing up of the original fatliquor through chemistry contamination that leaches out the fatliquor.
This is a technical facts that may sounds complicated.
In practice we need to soften up the leather by Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process.
Hydrator-3.3 when dwell up to 72 hrs will relax and soften up the leather prior to fatliquor replenishing it.
And if you used a moisture meter to read its existing fatliquor percentage you will know why it cracks.
When fatliquor percentages reaches 14% it will not crack thereafter.

Dark stains are removed from within the leather structure with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0.
The same principle as degreasing an oily hand, we need a suitable degeaser that will not hurt our skin and rinse off thereafter safely with no side effects.

Browning stains are are simply apply Vachetta-2.8 and let it dry. It works by redox chemical reaction.


>>> Please guide me through the complete process (including the very details steps, such as whether to use a dry towel; the time between one step to the next step.).

When you ready with picture reference I will walk you through. Meanwhile take a look at Leather Doctor Kit-V4


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]


Attachment 4225
Leather Doctor® Kit V4 Vachetta Leather Body Oil, Grease and Sweat / Browning Removal Kit

Leather Doctor® Kit V4 specialty problem solving kit include Vachetta-2.8 for browning removal and Degreaser-2.2 for body contact decontamination systems in a holistic approach. Kit V4 is a combination kit from Kit V3 and Kit V5.dr without duplicating of products for these common related problems.
Darkening appearance from body contact and browning from liquid stain are two main inevitable common problems associated with naked unfinished vachetta leathers. Leather being absorbent absorb and accumulates body moisture from contact and when neglected resulted in a darkening appearance. Besides appearance the sweat with traces of urea may cause the protein fiber from shifting ionic negative (-ve) manifesting as tackiness and reverting to rawhide.
Degreaser-2.2 solves the darkening effect by penetrating, lubricating and suspending the soiling particulates and simultaneously protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve). The amphoteric protein fiber is further rinse and ionic positive (+ve) charge with Acidifier-2.0 to strengthen the ionic attraction between its other non-amphoteric ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agent and the fatliquor. This dual duty removes the unwanted soiling particulates and pH balance the pH chemistry integrity of the leather at the same time.
Browning of vachetta leathers is associated with alkaline over-exposure, vachetta being a lower pH value than most other tanned leathers averages pH 4 is more sensitive to alkaline cleaning or stains and even water at pH 7 will cause discoloration and browning.
Vachetta-2.8 with its low pH works by oxidation-reduction reaction to reduce the discoloration or browning effect to a more even appearance when the leather is left to dry naturally.
Leather rejuvenating is mandatory and comes next when appearance become satisfactorily. This is accomplished with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system. Hydrator-3.3 plays a significant role in absorbent leathers like vachetta where stains are usually penetrated. The hydrator’s surfactancy helps internal leather structure colloidal movement by moving suspended soiling particulates to the surface at each wicking process until exhausted and is often used as part of the rinsing process. Besides hydrator is used to check for surface tension and relax the leather fiber prior to ionic negative (-ve) charged Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing. Natural slow drying in between application until saturation produces a softer leather.
Protecting the leather with Protector-D impart a natural draggy-feel and reduces wear to the grain of the leather, conceal scuff with its healing properties that also allows transpiration to take place or breaths naturally. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing the common problems associated with vachetta, saddlery and veg-tan leathers.

This leather shows it is too dry with cracks and has to be rejuvenated prior to degreasing and browning treatment process and perhaps another cycle of leather rejuvenating it thereafter after an inspection evaluation.
Cracks will be reveal to decide how best to handle them, it may be better to leave them alone as this is naked unfinished vegetable-tanned leathers and any repairs may not look natural.

1st – Hydrator-3.3
The first process is to hydrates the leather through the entire thickness. Agitating the leather with horsehair Brush-1 and extracting until terry towel shows clear in the process may helps in the cleaning suspended soiling if any. Thereafter the leather is left to dwell up to 72hrs to relax the stiff and stick together fibers, limps and plumps up.

2nd – Fatliquor-5.0
Optimum percentage of fatliquor in the original leather may be up to 14%. A moisture reading with a leather moisture meter or its equivalent may help us understand how much we need to top up, otherwise goes by appearance and suppleness to satisfy. It is vital not to allow the Hydrator-3.3 after limps and plumps up condition under evaporation control to dry up on its own, otherwise the leather becomes stiff again.
Fatliquor-5.0 must be applied to replace the water contents evaporated at each cycle until increase suppleness as the leather dries. To ease the suppleness and reduce cracking a gentle massaging or flexing is done at 25% moisture level until it reaches up the desired 14% moisture level when dry.

We shall review once this step is accomplished to proceed to the dark and browning marks.

Ask to clarify is you need.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]



For further readings. . .

Attachment 4272
Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
The multi functional abilities include:
a) To check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.
b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles.
c) To clean the leather of structural foreign contamination, the plump and limp leather is squeeze with towel laid between the leather and a smooth spatula or equivalent.
d) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.
e) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.
f) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
g) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively.
This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

Instruction:
A. Surface Tension Inspection:
A1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension for an even appearance prior to fatliquor replenishing.
B. Stiffness, Creases and Wrinkles:
B1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
B2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for softness.
B3. Manipulate by stretching and cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction prior to fatliquor replenishing.
B4. With satisfaction the Fatliquor-5.0 has to be immediately replenished while the leather is perhaps at 50% Hydrator-3.3 moisture level.
C. Cleaning:
C1). A combination of cleaning while saturating the leather is done with horsehair Brush-1 on the surface and towel extracting it. Deep cleaning beneath the surface from the leather structure for liquid stain is done with squeezing the leather with a smooth spatula with a towel in between to reduce abrasion and absorbing the foreign contamination – See F below
D. Rectify Alkaline Overexposure:
D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area.
D3. Observe for appearance and test by finger for tactile squeaky feel prior to fatliquor replenishing.
E. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:
E1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
E2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.
E3. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.
F. Removing Penetrated Stains:
F1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
F2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
F3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking.
F4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquor replenishing.


Attachment 4273
Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0, a micro emulsion of fat, oil and water is an anionic charged pH 5.0 fatliquor for rejuvenating all leather types. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.
Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor:
The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after an universal tannery fatliquoring process may varies up to 14% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure.
Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows:
If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%.
By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates.
In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0.
It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up to 14% fatliquor content.
Instruction:
1 Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
2 Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
3 Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
4 Allow natural drying for extra softness.
5 Suppleness for vegetable-tanned leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with Hydrator-3.3 prior to doing so to prevent cracking from under replenished leather.
Tips:
1 When crispy dry, prior surface contaminations/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface.
2 Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.
3 Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance.

>>> Hi Roger. Thanks for the reply. Since this is the first time I am using your product, I wanted to make sure I am not making my handbag to worst than it is. So I am trying on a very old LV wallet first until I feel comfortable on my other handbags. Please walk me through the process on lighting up this wallet. Thank you.

Attachment 4274


>>> Please walk me through the process on lighting up this wallet.

This is simulated leather with monogram design and has its own system for restoration cleaning quite unlike for the Vachetta. For both Vachetta and Simulated leather or vinyl the general care kit design is Leather Doctor Kit –V7.

Restoration cleaning to lighten up the leather of general soiling including dye transfer is done with Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 and follow-up with Protector-B+ found in Leather Doctor Kit-V7.

If the soiling is grease related then Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 is similarly used for both vachetta and simulated leathers.

Always test the products on a conspicuous spot prior to actual degreasing or cleaning. Monogram or logo prints may be deteriorated by prolong soiling and may not stand up with heavy cleaning.

A degreasing test may be conducted with a saturated cotton swab and test out for various colors and rinse out with Acidifier-2.0 accordingly. Upon satisfaction the entire wallet may be work over with horsehair Brush-1 and towel extract with a white terry towel until towel shows clean. This process is repeated with Acidifier-2.0. A non-stick rub-resistant protector appropriate would be Protector-B+ rather than the D.


See appropriate problem solving guide that matches leather in question below. Identify the problem on the left column. The numbers are the step to be taken with the top horizontal products.


# Simulated or Artificial or Faux Leather (L.s) Problem Solving Guide.
Attachment 4275


# Vegetable-Tanned (V) Naked Unfinished Leather Problem Solving Guide
Attachment 4276


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]


For further readings:

Attachment 4277
Leather Doctor® Kit V7 design for the care of Louis Vuitton (LV) bags is a combination problem solving kit that is an upgrade from Kit V6 with an addition of Protector-B+ for the simulated leather to impart a non-stick rub-resistant buttery-feel with a classic leather scent. Common stains encounter in the course of vachetta leathers lifetime includes the darkening effect from neglected body oil, grease and sweat contact, the occasion ink and dye transfer, and the browning from liquid and sun tanning seasoning effect just like our skin. The protein leather fiber is an ionic positive (+ve) “amphoteric” material thus pH sensitive to influence by alkaline solution shifting ionic negative (-ve), even water with a pH of 7 often discolors or browns it. Its other non-amphoteric leather constituents like the tanning agent and the fatliquor remains ionic negative (-ve), hence just like a magnet – “like poles repel”, breaking of the hydrogen bond between them, the leather denatures and in extreme cases revert to rawhide. This adverse contamination is rectify by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system, both to simultaneously degrease and protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to its pH chemistry integrity. Ballpoint, printing ink, dye transfer, gum, sticky substance and accumulated soiling will require the penetrating, lubricating and suspending power of Prep-4.4 follows with Clean-3.8 to remove the sticky residue and Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky feel. Browning from liquid stain or sun tanning is eliminated or reduced by chemical reaction from Vachetta-2.8 when dry. The above describe the three common class of stain removal. Leather rejuvenating mandatory sequence follows to soften and strength the leather from stiffness that may leads to cracking when flexed. Among leather finishes type, vachetta leathers is the most fatliquor (emulsified fat, oil and water) thirsty and will require more fatliquor to soften it then chrome-tanned leathers. In order to lubricate each fibril within the leather structure behaving like millions of interconnecting hinges the fat and oil has to be hydrogen bonded to the fibrils. This is accomplished by preconditioning the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 effectively prior to faliquor replenishing it with Fatliquor-5.0 in between drying cycle until fully saturated. Natural slow drying in between application produces softer leather. Protecting the leather with Protector-D reduces wear to the grain of the leather, conceal scuff with its healing properties that also allows transpiration to take place or breaths naturally. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing the common problems associated with vachetta leathers.

>>> Hi Roger, I am reading the instruction on each bottle from the v4 kit. There are several questions I need to understand the proper way of doing it:
1). What is dry soil removal?
2). What is dwell 10 to 30 minutes?
3). What is extract residues?
4). What is apply and agitate?
5). What is drive-in surface milky strays when dry?
Please explain it in details of each steps of the process. Thank you.


>>> 1). What is dry soil removal?

Any foreign contamination either accumulated onto the surface or into the leather structure being absorbed is know as soiling. Dry soil removing is removing soiling during the dry process and wet soil removing is removing soiling during the wet process. Dry soil removing could be done with appropriate brushes, erasers, and towels or by vacuum cleaning with appropriate dusting tools. In a cleaning process dry soil removal is the first step prior to cleaning products application.


>>> 2). What is dwell 10 to 30 minutes?

Dwelling is allowing the liquid products to react with the soiling to suspense it from the leather surface or from within the leather structure. Dwelling adds cleaning efficiency to produce the best result. Depending on situation or the physical condition of the finishes and sometimes it is not wise to dwell too long if the finishes strength is questionable. That is to say not to over clean it; neither do we want to under clean it. Judgment is critical when comes to cleaning especially we are not yet experience on how the products will response. Similarly response will correspond with degree of soiling severity.


>>> 3). What is extract residues?

Residues are remaining suspended soiling after surface towel extraction that wicks up to the surface of the leather during the drying cycle. Extractions suggest that the process is still within a wet process towards drying.


>>> 4). What is apply and agitate?

Agitate is light brushing from the tips of the brush helping to dislodge soiling particulates from the leather pores and creases. Apply could be by direct spray or applying by transferring onto a brush, foam brush or eraser.


>>> 5). What is drive-in surface milky strays when dry?

Fatliquor-5.0 is for beneath the surface of the leather.
Any lingering remnants that stray on the leather surface are thus drive-in or push-in into the leather again otherwise wasted with wipe away. System product is to use Hydrator-3.3 until surface is crystal clear. Spray Hydrator-3.3 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1 and towel extract any wick-up residue until towel shows clean.

>>> Hi Roger, I tried to lighting up the wallet today but it doesn't work. The following are the procedures:
1) dry soil cleaning: I used the brush and the eraser that comes with the V4 kit to do the task, then the dry towel from the kit.
2) I apply the degreaser 2.2 to the vachetta, then right away, I used the brush to brush onto the vachetta leather.
3) when I am done with step 2, I used the dry towel to extract the vachetta leather right away (I just used the towel rub against the vachetta leather).
4). After step 3, I spray acidifier 2.0 to the vachetta leather.
5) then I used the brush to agitate the vachetta leather.
6) after step 5, I used the dry towel right away to extract the vachetta leather until little residues shown on the towel. (Now the wallet is covered in dry towel paper and wrap in plastic for hydrator 3.3)


>>> Roger, did I did it wrong?

Not sure what you are doing the Vachetta (brown leather) or the Wallet (white monogram simulated leather)?
Please show pictures for reference.


>>> Please tell me what do I needed to do to see a difference on my wallet so I can proceed to do my other handbags.

What are you trying to remove, please give a description of its existing condition with pictures for reference and I will recommend.
Please do not cross instructions from bag to bag if they have difference soiling problems or leather types.


>>> I tried to lighting up the wallet today but it doesn't work

Please show pictures for reference in each of the steps if possible.

>>> I tried to lighting up the wallet today but it doesn't work

Here are two examples of lightening up the vachetta leather.

#A1 - Vachetta-2.8 is applied with a saturated cotton swab and when soiling shows, change to a new cotton swab with saturated Vachetta-2.8 and repeat to satisfaction.
Attachment 4312


#A2 - Leave the leather to natural drying and any lightening will show up.
Attachment 4313


#B1 - Vachetta-2.8 application
Attachment 4314


#B2 - The after drying result of Vachetta-2.8
Attachment 4315

>>> Hi Roger, since the practice on lighting the wallet is a failure,

Common sense or logic, if there are no browning problems (rather a browning discoloration fro liquid stain or suntanning), it will not work, not a failure of the product but failure of the user to understand how the product works (no offence intended).


>>> I am going to try to clean and lighting this vachetta handle with the V4 kits.

A - Cleaning is the removing of foreign contamination and it depends on the severity of soiling as well as the soiling found in the Vachetta Leather Problem Solving Guide – see post #4. The Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system for surface grease, oil and sweat contamination is handpicked to perform this function and stubborn below surface soiling decontamination is further assist with Degreaser-2.2 > Hydrator-3.3 system to facilitate colloidal water movement within the inter fibriliary system to wick to the surface with consecutive drying process until the last trace is clear – again all by the wicking process during the drying cycle where the soiling is towel extract and erased with Eraser-4 when crispy dry. Stretching also helps lighten up appearance.

B – Browning treatment with Vachetta-2.8 will lightening up sun tanned effect and unsightly browning discoloration by just letting the product soak into the leather and allow it to a slow natural drying.
Using the Eraser-4 over it and stretching it will lighten and even out the appearance as well.

C – Leather structural integrity is very vital to Vachetta leather as it easily crack with lack of percentage of original fatliquor. This will need to be top up, up to 14% of original tannery standard. Sometimes the pale biscuit color shows lack of percentage of fatliquor is a possibility, the other is the hides used and the others the types of vegetable tannin used plays a role in the color range. A moisture reading may be taken from various parts of the bag to determine their remaining percentage of fatliquor left over. The process of leather rejuvenating is first by means of Hydrator-3.3 and may take on a deeper intensity as dyestuff may be activated and freshen up on the surface. Again excess may be corrected with above mention B with Vachetta-2.8. Fatliquor-5.0 continues while the Hydrator-3.3 is about between 14% to 25%. At each drying cycle to the 14% to 25% level additional fatliquor is replenished until the desired color or suppleness. A greater percentage of fatliquor intensifies or magnifies the grain beauty correction is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0.

D – Protector-D heals and seals scuff and over protection that produces intensity not to liking are corrected with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0.

The Leather Doctor Kit-V4 comes in the above modules and add-on products are available as individual

In all of the above modules only module D is place to the last of the sequence.
All the other modules may be place over one another in whatever sequence you wish until satisfaction.

Caution!
Only cracking is irreversible, the other problem describe with this kit is solvable with knowledge and understanding.

Let me know what sequence you choose and I will give tips how best to do it.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]

Hi Roger, since you the expert on this. What is your suggestion? My goal is to remove the stain/marks on the handle and make the handle color to 2 shades lighter tan color. Thank you.
Ps. I am not that good in English and Chemistry, please provide the steps in simple plain form.

Please include pictures for reference and a description to it as well - see http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...30-How-to-Post