BMW E92 M3 - tire marks on leather

So, yes I am an idiot and managed to stain my tan leather seats with tires. I had some new tires delivered to my work and didn't have the forethought to bring garbage bags, towels, etc. Even then, I didn't realize the damage would be so severe (and difficult to remove as I've seen a couple other posts on this site).

I'm guessing, but have not been able to confirm, that BMW Novillo leather is aniline, although I've also heard that all BMW leather has a protective sealant coat, so maybe it's some sort of hybrid? Anyway, what products would you guys recommend for the damage in the pics below? (also, it's hard to tell in some of the pics, but #2,5,7,8 are on vertical surfaces)

#1 - Front Passenger Seat (a)
Attachment 5241

#2 - Front Passenger Seat (b)
Attachment 5242

#3 - Rear Seat (a)
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#4 - Rear Seat (b)
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#5 - Rear Seat (c)
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#6 - Rear Seat (d)
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#7 - Rear Seat (e)
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#8 - Rear Seat (f)
Attachment 5248

>>> stain my tan leather seats with tires.

We are talking about micron carbon stain, dyes would be easier to removed by (Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system).



>>> I'm guessing, but have not been able to confirm, that BMW Novillo leather is aniline, although I've also heard that all BMW leather has a protective sealant coat, so maybe it's some sort of hybrid?

The success of removal without distorting the coloring depends on the strength of the protective sealant coat and if the protective sealant coat stays healthy throughout then there is no fear finishes damages. Aniline dyestuff will be affected by the Prep-7.7 when it seeps through the protective coating with a lighter discoloration. Pigmented coloring would not be affected at all, thus Bleach-9.9 is added to the Prep-7.7 as a booster.



>>> Anyway, what products would you guys recommend for the damage in the pics below?

You may learn the technique but note the differences in stain type from this link:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...o-you-suggests


Attachment 5249
Leather Doctor® Kit-Ap7.di, auto pigmented / perforated leather dye and ink remover kit is an innovative concept of removing blue jeans dye and ink stains featuring a “reverse transfer” technique utilizing a paper towel over the dwelling Prep-7.7. Prep-7.7. It works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending the stains on dwell time and the paper towel reverse absorb the stain instantaneously from the leather. Prior failed attempt with set-in stains may require the help of Bleach-9.9 as booster to the Prep-7.7 to remove the residual stains. Clean sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8, rinsed with Rinse-3.0 and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 when Bleach-9.9 is cooperated. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fatliquor-5.0 rejuvenates the leather structure with softness and suppleness when dry. MicroTop-54M is an option for renewing the finish from friction wear. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe dye and ink stain removal system.

Instruction:


Testing with Prep-7.7
1. Cut out a piece of paper towel from the kit not bigger than our thumb size and soak it with Prep-7.7.
2. Test it on the worst stain area and inspect every 24 hours with fresh application until the stain is gone.
3. Observe if there is sign of stain removal, if it does, the stain will eventually be remove with repeat application.
4. To secure the test patch from dislodging wrapped it over with see throughcling wrap.
5. When stain is removed with satisfaction, clean off the sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 until a
squeaky-feel.
6. The lack of a healthy squeaky feel may be the result of worn out topcoat, reapplication with MicroTop-54M is
recommended.
7. Apply a soak out paper towel with Acidifier-2.0 over the area until dry to strengthen the finish prior to topcoat application.
8. When test after 72 hours shows poor response, Bleach-9.9 may be used to boost the Prep-7.7.

Mixing Ratio (1: 2: 2)
1. A mixing ratio guide by weight is 1 part Bleach-9.9: 2 parts Prep-7.7: 2 parts Hot water.
2. From the mixing bottle, a small test portion Bleach-9.9 is first added into the bottle follow with Prep-7.7 adding and stirring
into a paste.
3. Hot water is dripped into the bottle using the pipette to activate the bleach and stirring into a creamy paste.

Testing with Bleach-9.9
1. Apply onto an inconspicuous or hidden area and leave it for a 12 hours inspection for discoloration.
2. Remove residue with damp wiping and cleaning sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0.
3. Cut out a paper towel, soak with Acidifier-2.0 and place on the test spot until naturally dry to neutralize the alkalinity.

Note
If testing with Bleach-9.9 bleach shows side effect, abandon and continue only with Prep-7.7.

Actual Application
Repeat testing successes to the actual application.




Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor

Wow, thanks for the extremely detailed reply! I will post back with updates once I receive my kit.

Due to some delays, I just now got a chance to start treating this. I'm hoping it hasn't "set in" more over this time.

I started by testing area #6 as it was the worst. Somehow I lost my picture of the progress after 24 hours, but here is the picture after 48 hours of Prep 7.7 (sorry for the low quality, I had to take it at night).
The flash makes it look worse than it actually is due to the residue, but the surface is actually ok, and the progress seems slow, but working. One question though, should I be cleaning the residue off after each 24 hour test?

Attachment 5286

>>> One question though, should I be cleaning the residue off after each 24 hour test?

Just peel off the T-5 Towel saturated Prep-7.7.

Like to see if you place done the first step correctly as follows:

1. Cut out a piece of paper towel from the kit not bigger than our thumb size and soak it with Prep-7.7 onto a test spot.

Yeah, here's a picture of Step 1. As you said, I have been applying a small piece of paper towel soaked with Prep 7.7 and letting it set for 24 hours. After that, I am reapplying a new piece of paper towel with Prep 7.7 and I am not cleaning the surface before hand. Did I misunderstand? Should I be only using 1 piece and just checking on the status every 24 hours but not reapplying?

Attachment 5288

>>> I have been applying a small piece of paper towel soaked with Prep 7.7

Try to remove the air spaces to that the paper turns translucent for direct surface contact for a reverse transfer.


>>> and letting it set for 24 hours.

You may leave it up to 72hrs with a continuous dwell.


>>> After that, I am reapplying a new piece of paper towel with Prep 7.7 and I am not cleaning the surface before hand. Did I misunderstand? Should I be only using 1 piece and just checking on the status every 24 hours but not reapplying?

Practical to used only 1 piece of paper and check for color transfer to the paper every 24 hours.
Only if there is a color transfer that you change to a new piece, otherwise top-up the Prep-7.7 and make sure no air space and let continue dwell.

You may learn the technique but note the differences in stain type from this link:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...o-you-suggests

Note that tire marks will be tougher than the above removal of prints from a plastic bag.
Abstain from any physical action on the stain to reduce or prevent any damages to the finishes.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Practitioner / Consultant / Instructor / Coach.
[email protected]

Alright, thanks for the tips. Here's one last picture from after 72 hours. I will make sure to saturate the paper like you said and will post back after 72 hours of not changing the paper and just checking/topping-up every 24 hours.

Attachment 5291

>>> I will make sure to saturate the paper

Otherwise suspended stain that has an air space above will not to transfer to the towel.

This reverse technique also avoid any unnecessary physical contact (like rubbing and brushing) to the vulnerable finishes.

I think that color refinishing is most likely a necessary step, if the stain is not completely removed or the finishes is being damaged.

Anyway the stains has to go, otherwise it may still wick-up on the new finishing.

Ok, here's some updated pics after another 72 hour test. The only thing I forgot was to take a picture of the paper (to see the color transfer), but there was a little, not a lot though. However, the stain is getting noticeably better, and as far as I can tell, it's not damaging the leather surface in any way (visually at least). As you said, I guess this will just take time with this kind of stain. I will start another 72 hour test today.

Attachment 5304

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>>> As you said, I guess this will just take time with this kind of stain. I will start another 72 hour test today.

Carbon stain is unlike other dye, ink or print stains – keep trying as long as the finishes can take it.

Keep the paper towel always saturated at all times, otherwise poor transfer to the paper.

Note:
Even though color refinishing may be the last resort, the stain is best to be removed as much, otherwise it may wick-up through the new coloring.

Alright, sorry for going so long without an update. Unfortunately I had to be away from home for a month for business. Anyway, after getting good results with the first test spot, I've moved on to tackling the entirety of the worst stain. The picture below is after 3 sessions of 72 hours. As before, the camera/leftover gel seems to magnify and/or make the leather look kind of bad, but in person, the results are great. Obviously, this spot isn't finished (I want to at least take care of the heavy stains before cleaning up the light ones), but just wanted to update. Thanks again Roger for recommending this product line and giving so much detailed assistance :)

Attachment 5493

Good to see the improvement!

Of course, this is the best solution of removing carbon stain from leather on planet earth so far to date known.

But is there a tacky feel to it?

A light refinishing with a matching color may be the next option.

No tackiness so far, but I will keep that in mind and check again after everything's finished.

>>> No tackiness so far

Good, it means the finishes remains strong, perhaps a little discoloration that need to be reduce for the rest of the treatment.