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Pictures #3 & #4 shows Hand Grease Embedded Stains!
Phase 1: Degreasing.
Procedure for degreasing and restoration cleaning prior to color refinishing is as follows:
Use Degreaser-2.2 to penetrate, lubricate and suspense the embedded greasy soiling with the help of Suede-Brush-3.
The process continues with acidifier Rinse-3.0 thereafter to extract the suspended grease until towel shows clean.
Fast dry it to a crispy-dry then use Nubuck Eraser-5 to erase wick-up soiling particulates and exfoliating for new nap simultaneously.
Inspect for degreasing satisfaction, otherwise repeat where necessary.
Note: Need to warm-up the Degreaser-2.2 and shake until it turns to a milky gel prior to use.
Prep clean the non-greased areas with Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0
Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2:
It's for all Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
This is a pH 2.2 high viscosity aqueous formulated leather degreaser.
It’s primarily for degreasing leather of penetrated oil and grease stains from skin and hair contact prior to refinishing.
Also assist in removing solvent based stains like permanent marker, paint and nail-polish.
Oil and grease based stains like: crayon, wax, ballpoint ink and lipstick.
Dye-transfer stains from blue jeans, ink prints and newsprints.
Leather Doctor® Prep-4.4:
It's for Aniline, Nubuck, Suede and all Absorbent leather types.
This is a leather-safe pH 4.4 aqueous high viscosity leather preparatory cleaner.
It works by allowing sufficient dwell-time to penetrate, lubricate and suspense foreign soil contamination prior to Cleaner-3.8.
Leather Doctor® Cleaner-3.8:
It's for all Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
This is a pH 3.8 all purpose leather-safe anionic cleaner that is particularly effective in emulsifying oily soils and in suspending particulates.
It cleans by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling safely and effectively through gentle chemical reaction.
Cos its pH value works in perfect harmony with all leather constituents that include the tanning agent, preservative, fatliquor, dyestuff and others.
Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0:
It's for all Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
This is a pH 3.0 aqueous leather-safe rinse to neutralize harmful alkaline and perspiration residues.
It’s for stabilizing and strengthening leather constituent pH chemistry integrity.
And cationizing (+ve) protein fiber below its isoelectric point to increase hydrogen bonding prior to anionic (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0
Phase 2: Leather Rejuvenating.
Hydrate with Hydrator-3.3 evenly follows with Fatliquor-5.0 adequately and rinse the fatliquor for stronger hydrogen-bonding with Rinse-3.0 of any strays fatliquor.
Leave it for very slow drying (cover up to reduce evaporation overnight to freshen up the dye shade difference those faded areas as revealed in picture #2).
Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3:
It’s for Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on and Woolskin leather types.
This is a pH 3.3 aqueous leather-safe hydrator.
It’s for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers (to separates the crushed, stick together fibrils and relax them) prior to strengthening and softening with Fatliquor-5.0.
And it’s also used for facilitating colloidal water movement within the leather structure capillary motion during the wicking process.
That will cause suspended soil particulates to be moved to the leather surface to be extracted with rag while damp and erase with Leather Eraser-4 when dry.
Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0:
It’s for Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on and Woolskin leather types.
This is a pH 5.0 anionic charged micro emulsion fatliquor leather rejuvenator.
It’s for replenishing original fatliquor that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure or cleaning.
It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying they will be capable of sliding over one another smoothly.
Besides softening the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, it enhances the leather rip resistance tensile strength greatly.
Thus relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles to provide drapes, suppleness and prevents cracking.
It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.
Phase 3: Color Refinishing.
Use color matching - Leather Doctor® Nubuck Color-94:
It's for Nubuck and Suede.
This is an aqueous non-bleed micro-pigment color formulation.
It’s to provide an excellent hiding power with opacity.
Phase 4: Color Fixing.
Use Leather Doctor® Nubuck Fix-99: for Pure-Aniline, Nubuck and Suede.
This is an aqueous formulation color fix spray to abate crocking.
Crocking is greatly reduced or eliminated on most leather with good fixing of both dyes and micro pigment colors.
It improves wet rub fastness and reduces bleeding.
It maintains the natural feel and “finger writing effect” of the nap.
Phase 5: Non-Stick Protection.
Use Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-S:
It’s for Pure-Aniline, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-On and Woolskin leather types.
This is a non-film forming, non-stick protector that enhances a natural silky-feel with a classic leather scent that charms.
It imparts a non-stick surface essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink.
And it does help to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing.
Its natural silky-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion.
And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather rubs against leather during movement.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Roger,
Jermaine started on thes chairs a few days ago, they look much better, but are still much lighter than original.
This client has 10 of these chairs, they are 30 years old and were custom made. I think they must be top grain suede to have lasted this long? Is there a way to tell? The picture of the cushion being pulled back shows the original deep teal color, is there any chance of the color coming back without dyeing, or is re-dyeing the only way to bring back the color.
The office decor and carpeting is stil that vibrant color and they are classic chairs that are unique.
The client might be satisfied if rehydrating and fatliquoring bring back most of the color.
What do you think?
Jermaine started on thes chairs a few days ago, they look much better, but are still much lighter than original.
(I like to see pictures, please.)
This client has 10 of these chairs, they are 30 years old and were custom made. I think they must be top grain suede to have lasted this long? Is there a way to tell?
(Suede from small animal may be just the reverse side of leather, and it is known as “napa suede” without splitting.
Split-Suede is usually from the bigger and thicker bovine family and as the name suggest are suede on both sides.
Otherwise custom made could be using the “Top Grain” in reverse that will be much stronger.)
The picture of the cushion being pulled back shows the original deep teal color, is there any chance of the color coming back without dyeing, or is re-dyeing the only way to bring back the color.
(Depending on how exhausted the dyestuff has been through UV fading.
Reviving a 30 years will be 3 times more difficult than a 10 years fading.)
The office decor and carpeting is stil that vibrant color and they are classic chairs that are unique.
The client might be satisfied if rehydrating and fatliquoring bring back most of the color.
What do you think?
(I suggest redyeing might be a good idea, the only risk is not having a perfect color match.
It is either using Nubuck Dye-28 “Translucent” or Nubuck Color-94 “Opaque”.
Have to see the after Hydrating and Fatliquoring results to recommend.)
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Leather Doctor® Nubuck Dye-28:
It’s for nubuck and suede.
This is a new generation aqueous translucent hybrid dyestuff with more penetrating power than Nubuck Color-94.
It’s to provide a more lively and brilliant color with better translucency hiding power than standard dyes.
Like to see some pictures of what you have accomplished, please!
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor(r)
Thank you for the feedback!
I believe the degreasing was not a problem with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.
But how did you manage to bring back the color?
Did you dye it?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
No, I did not dye them. The color came back after hydrating & fatliquoring a couple of times.
Roger, although much of the color came back, the client decided to have us try to add more color. They match the carpet in their offices. I sent you a swatch.
Do you think we can get them back to original, and make them more uniform in color?
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...6-10-10001.jpg
As you can see there si still a lot of missing color. There are 10 chairs all together that need restoring. I will need enough dye to do them all.
Yes!
We can return to them in showroom condition!
There is two choice to the color one is using a micro-pigment / dye hybrid that have a translucent look would be the preference for this job using Nubuck Dye-28.
The other is using Nubuck Color-94, an opaque color that has no bleeding problem, only used when Dye-28 does not have enough power to hide unwanted blemishes.
It will also depend how close the color can be after the trial color matching to decide which one to go, or having the Color-94 as a back-up.
Keep it up with excellent work!
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
The color is matched.
Will 1 quart be enough?
You only have 94.6 gm for each chair if you go for 1 quart; depends how absorbent these chair is; for comparison; because of naps; it would have more surface areas absorbing than smooth aniline leather.
For 2 quarts you will have left overs; but very relax to enjoy what you have been doing.
You decide on the Nubuck Fix-99 too, 1 or 2 quarts; left overs can be used for other projects.
These products are non-perishable.
The chairs are a little on the lime green side, need to be a richer green (kelly green)?
I have 1 and 1/2 quarts of dye left, please send me the color(s) necesarry to resolve this concern by express post.
We have these three chairs blus 9 more still to come in. Jermaines original post shows all sides of the chairs.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...6-30-10027.jpg
To have all the chairs look equally good; it has to be done in gradual synchronization towards the desired shade of green.
That is to say that the nine other chairs has to be done as accordingly to the three already done and proceed with the increase in shade from there onwards; as the second round.
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Like to see some pictures of the final result!
Thanks
Roger Koh
[email protected]
here is the way they looked when they left our workroom
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