Universal Casual Shoe Care

I’ve been brainstorming the ideal “universal casual shoe care method” with Leather Doctor products. The thing that all my casual shoes have in common is that I never use cream or wax polish on them.

Some example shoe leathers for this universal care routine:

- Horween Chromexcel Aniline Pull Up. Examples: Alden Indy boot, Rancourt Handsewn moccasins.
- Suede. Example: Alden snuff suede plain toe blucher
- Full Grain Rough Out. Example: WW II style army boondocker boots
- Aniline calf: dress calf, trapper calf.

I have not found products, until now, that both clean & condition all of these types of leather with the same products. So I wanted to run propose a routine to check if it seems advisable for these leathers (not to mention a wide variety of upholstery, jackets, etc.)

This is describing regular maintenance that I’d be performing on all of my shoes, ignoring special problems like removing grease or urine :)

Routine care, as needed:

- spray & wipe with Rinse-3.0 and brush (on suede I use different eraser & suede brush)
- Spray Rinse-3.0 and wipe inside linings, as needed, to bring PH down from sweat from regular wear
- Spay & wipe Protector-S+? Questions about this below. S+ is for all leathers, but suede is in the minority.

Periodic care, as needed:

- Hydrator-3.3 + Fatliquor-5.0 + Protect S+. When the leather seems dry, less supple. Perhaps around Quarterly.

Occasionally, as needed:

- Clean, Rinse, Hydrator, Fatliquor, Protect
- Use Prep-4.4 first if it is a more intensive restoration, or requires a deeper clean (not considering special problems from which the other products might be needed).

My questions are:

1. Does the hydrator need to dry fully before applying Fatliquor, or just dwell or period of time (from a few mins up to 72hrs as needed)?
2. Wipes: I always have on hand the Kimberly Clark WypAll x60 wipes. Would these be suitable to use for every step requiring the paper wipes you sell?
3. Protect: I was thinking I could use Protect S+ for everything, since it can be used on all the above leather types. Would it be a problem to use the silky feel on all leather types? Is using it on the linings problematic? On the other hand, the vast majority of leather I would care for is not suede or rough out, so perhaps I should get buttery feel, which would work almost everything, and all linings. But then I’d have to also get S+ for suedes, or is buttery feel also fine for suede? I have a feeling I might need mostly buttery feel, plus a little silky feel, so not quite universal but close. What would you recommend?
4. Nano protector. I had been using Terrago Nano Spray—a water and stain repellent spray on my suedes. There are many like this on the market. Lasts a couple weeks. Is the protector essentially the same thing? Since I already have nano protector, should I continue to use this as the protector for suedes, and use buttery feel for everything else? Then I only need the buttery feel protector.
5. Lexol: I have mainly used lexol cleaning and conditioner products on all my non-suede/nubuck/roughout leathers. Any product interaction problems I should be aware of? I would probably continue to use lexol on certain items, in conjunction w/ Leather Doctor products, simply because I have a supply that will last a while. (Though I would plan to just use the Leather Doctor routine above on most of my shoes moving forward.)

Thanks for your help!

Armando

>>> 1. Does the hydrator need to dry fully before applying Fatliquor, or just dwell or period of time (from a few mins up to 72hrs as needed)?

Hydrator-3.3 is the wide card of the leather doctor system that plays a few varied functions if you go into the detailed usage. Dwelling up to 72hrs in a complete saturation with moisture oozing out when pressed between fingers and thumb is to relax the leather structure making it limp and plumbed for dimension manipulation from shrinkage tightness or a new pair that does not fit the contour of our feet. Leather can be stretched up to 60% and hydrating helps in this process. During the long dwell it also moves foreign contamination to the surface to be towel extracted at interval as it protonates the leather constituents like the tanning agent, fatliquor and help to distribute the dyestuff to the re-surface as well. These multi function activities one aspect also strengthen the hydrogen bonding between the ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents (tanning agent, fatliquor & dyestuff) with the leather ionic positive (+ve) protein fiber for leather pH chemistry integrity sake. As the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 is the second stage after cleaning and Hydrator-3.3 does a deep cleaning moving foreign contamination to the surface as well it should be at a 25% total moisture level (or wipe until cotton towel shows dry) for ease of distribution throughout the entire inter-fibrilary spaces for the Fatliquor-5.0. Simply apply Fatliquor-5.0 when the leather structure has a 25% combine moisture level after Hydrator-3.3.


>>> 2. Wipes: I always have on hand the Kimberly Clark WypAll x60 wipes. Would these be suitable to use for every step requiring the paper wipes you sell?
Any absorbent towel would do for wiping, including cotton terry towel.


>>> 3. Protect: I was thinking I could use Protect S+ for everything, since it can be used on all the above leather types. Would it be a problem to use the silky feel on all leather types?

It is not a problem to use Protector-S+ for all leather type, but under protect if use on Wax Pull-up (use Protector-D+ instead), too light for split-suede (use Protector-W+ instead) and too light for most smooth leather including the Oil Pull-up (use Protector-B+ instead).


>>> Is using it on the linings problematic?

Too light for lining (use Protector-B/B+ instead) and after all the prices of these 4 tactile feels are the same and it makes no difference to your cost of service, however when match accordingly the leather tactile feel is enhanced tremendously.


>>> On the other hand, the vast majority of leather I would care for is not suede or rough out, so perhaps I should get buttery feel, which would work almost everything, and all linings. But then I’d have to also get S+ for suedes, or is buttery feel also fine for suede?

Use Protector-S+ for napa-suede and velvet-suede (nubuck); and Protector-W+ for split-suede.


>>> I have a feeling I might need mostly buttery feel, plus a little silky feel, so not quite universal but close. What would you recommend?

As there are more smooth leather and the lining, you would use Protector-B+ most, second would be Protector-S+, besides the other two mentioned.


>>> 4. Nano protector. I had been using Terrago Nano Spray—a water and stain repellent spray on my suedes. There are many like this on the market. Lasts a couple weeks. Is the protector essentially the same thing?

No, just like insurance, there are varied policies. The Protector-B+/D+/S+/W+ is a nonstick stick rub-resistant protector that matches the original tactile feel of the leather enhancing or magnifies it. Protector-D+ has healing and concealing properties that repairs surface scuffing for Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers.


>>> Since I already have nano protector, should I continue to use this as the protector for suedes, and use buttery feel for everything else? Then I only need the buttery feel protector.

Any products that repels water would also restrict water from sweaty feet from evaporating, making the feet too warm, thus more uncomfortable due to buildup moisture trapped in the shoe. The leather natural transpiration is thus retarded, it may also interfere with the original tactile-feel as well, you decide!


>>> 5. Lexol: I have mainly used lexol cleaning and conditioner products on all my non-suede/nubuck/roughout leathers. Any product interaction problems I should be aware of? I would probably continue to use lexol on certain items, in conjunction w/ Leather Doctor products, simply because I have a supply that will last a while. (Though I would plan to just use the Leather Doctor routine above on most of my shoes moving forward.)

Average pH value of leather is between 3 and 5, and any cleaning products above 5 for cleaning would need to be pH balance to 3-5 to be technically correct. Remember that leather is pH sensitive, the protein fiber is an amphoteric material and any pH above its pH neutral or iso-electric point or pI will cause a shift of the protein fiber ionic negative (-ve). Leather pH chemistry works the same principle as magnet – ‘like poles repels’. When the pH of the leather protein fiber shift ionic negatives (-ve) the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agent leaches out result in tacky (denaturing or reverting to rawhide), fatliquor leaches out result in leather stiffness that leads to crack when flexed and the common dyestuff discoloration or bleeding are all signs of pH imbalance. Check out the pH value of the Lexol. All leather doctor cleaning products suffix numbers denotes its pH value, thus Clean-3.8 has a pH value of 3.8 (leather-safe).

Thank you so much of for the excellent information. It's really helping me decide. A couple remaining questions on the protectors. I'm optimizing more for minimizing storage space for all of the products needed for my routine (city apartment living, scarce shelf space), and secondarily for not having more product than I could ever possibly use. Perhaps if there were smaller sizes I could purchase each protector type that I need.

First, it looks like I don't need Protector-S+ at all, since I have no napa suede or nubuck--just a few pairs of split suede between my wife and I, and no suede garments or upholstery.

So that leaves: B+ for most of my leathers and linings, W+ for split suedes and roughout, D+ for the Wax Pull-up (I assume Horween Chromexcel is in this category--they say they use both oils and waxes in their "hot stuffing" process, and I believe that means default to Wax pull up products).

I want to see if I can get it down to 1 or 2 protectors. I'll try to optimize.

- For linings, I do care about the correct tactile feel, because that is where my feet make contact. So B+ is a must.
- For leather on the outside of the shoe, however, matching the tactile feel is irrelevant to me, since only my pants hem will touch it. The protection/prevention for rubbing and stains is important to reduce maintenance, as is squeak reduction.

Given this:

1. I'll definitely want B+ for the linings and many outer leathers. Would it provide suitable protection if I used it for all my other leathers, too? Split suede, roughout, wax pull up...if tactile feel is not an issue. And if I were to get only 2, would it be B+ and W+?

2. What rule of thumb would to recommend for how often to apply the protector? Certainly after every cleaning cycle, and before first use. Beyond that...every few weeks, every quarter as a part of routine maintenance?

Here's what I'm planning on getting so far:

- Rinse-3.0 30ml conc
- Hydrator-3.3 60ml conc
- Fatliquor-5.0 250ml RTU (would be nice if there were a smaller conc size)
- Clean 3.8 ... hmm, probably the 250ml RTU, the conc be overkill since I clean less often.
- Prep-4.4 60ml
- Protector-B+ and ?

Thanks again!

>>> 1. I'll definitely want B+ for the linings and many outer leathers. Would it provide suitable protection if I used it for all my other leathers, too? Split suede, roughout, wax pull up...if tactile feel is not an issue. And if I were to get only 2, would it be B+ and W+?

B+ would be a better choice for smooth leather and lining. D+ is a must for wax pull-up as it also repairs surface scuff and still maintain the pull-up originality.


>>> 2. What rule of thumb would to recommend for how often to apply the protector? Certainly after every cleaning cycle, and before first use. Beyond that...every few weeks, every quarter as a part of routine maintenance?

All what you have mentioned if you like the leather scent and the buttery-feel and noise reduction that translate to less friction from the shoe lining (so easy and smooth to slide in and out) and scuff rubs from the outside.

>>> Here's what I'm planning on getting so far:

>>> - Rinse-3.0 30ml conc
Will need a 250ml that comes with mini-sprayer for practical application.

>>> - Hydrator-3.3 60ml conc
Will need a 250ml that comes with mini-sprayer for practical application.

>>> - Fatliquor-5.0 250ml RTU (would be nice if there were a smaller conc size)
The dilution is only 1: 5 thus and use a lot thus a smaller quantity would deem impractical.

>>> - Clean 3.8 ... hmm, probably the 250ml RTU, the conc be overkill since I clean less often.
A 30ml conc bottle would not take up much space

>>> - Protector-B+ and ?
250ml spray bottle with a 120ml concentrate for Protector-B+, a 250ml Protector-D+ and a 250ml Protector-W+

Ok thanks for the info. Hmm, that is quite a lot of product I would be ordering for routine shoe care. But it makes sense. Perfect for leather restorers or the small group of shoe nerds, I suppose :) If I may, a couple of questions to satisfy my curiosity:

- What exactly would be the problem with using B+ on suede and rough out leather other than incorrect tactile feel? Would it still be fine as a protector on these? Would it interfere with the leather appearance?
- D+ makes sense for wax pull-up if B+ would make it no longer look right, or ruin its pull up type behavior. I guess for my pull up leathers the other option is to use no protector, as these are mainly very casual boots or moccasins, and the pull up leather already is good for rubbing out minor scuffs on its own. So far I have never had a problem with just brushing & conditioning pull up leather, but then again I've only recently started wearing more casual shoes like this.

I may get all 3 protectors, but would just like to understand the tradeoffs and satisfy my curiosity.

And some bonus questions:

- Breaking in stiff boots: it is a common issue with heavy duty boots made of thick leather and thick soles to have a long and uncomfortable break-in period. I have seen you mention that the hydrator can help in break in. Would I saturate with hydrator, then wear the shoes? Would hydrator be harmful to my feet if I walked around for a couple of hours to break in the boots? Or would I walk in them after applying hydrator, bringing to 25% saturation, and applying fat liquor? So the boots would instead be damp with hydrator + a first application of fat liquor. (then I would continue the fatliquoring process, followed by the final hyrdrating wipe down)

- Does regular brushing of suede reduce the effectiveness of the protector? I brush with a nylon suede brush every few wears or as needed to brush out dust/surface dirt, and use a suede eraser to on dirty spots.
- Similarly, does brushing of other leathers just rub off the protector? I brush my leather shoes almost every wear to keep them clean

Finally, below is the type of suede that are used in most of my shoes. This particular example is an unlined snuff suede. The vamp is unlined, and I can see the grain on the inside of the leather. It is snuffed velvety soft, and the suede side is has a short and velvety nap as well. Just wanted to confirm the W+ is indeed the protector for this, or if it's meant for thicker, tougher suedes.

Thanks again!

Attachment 6265
Attachment 6266

>>> - What exactly would be the problem with using B+ on suede and rough out leather other than incorrect tactile feel? Would it still be fine as a protector on these? Would it interfere with the leather appearance?

Other then tactile-feel it would not interfere with the leather appearance. It will still retain its abilities to resist sticky soiling and against friction rubs.


>>> - D+ makes sense for wax pull-up if B+ would make it no longer look right, or ruin its pull up type behavior. I guess for my pull up leathers the other option is to use no protector, as these are mainly very casual boots or moccasins, and the pull up leather already is good for rubbing out minor scuffs on its own. So far I have never had a problem with just brushing & conditioning pull up leather, but then again I've only recently started wearing more casual shoes like this.

The short term Protector-D+ assists or compliments the long term EffectWax-8.6, thus makes it easy to correct or conceal minor scuffs. Other then this special effect and tactile feel, the protection basically is the same as B+.


>>> - Breaking in stiff boots: it is a common issue with heavy duty boots made of thick leather and thick soles to have a long and uncomfortable break-in period. I have seen you mention that the hydrator can help in break in. Would I saturate with hydrator, then wear the shoes?

Stretching with a shoe tree may be used as a first step with tightness (either a new shoe or an old pair of shoes that shrunk of its original fatliquor).
Conforming to the shape of our feet would be by wearing it will the leather structure is saturated with Hydrator-3.3 .


>>> Would hydrator be harmful to my feet if I walked around for a couple of hours to break in the boots?

They are not harmful to our skin (remember that leather is skin too).


>>> Or would I walk in them after applying hydrator, bringing to 25% saturation, and applying fat liquor? So the boots would instead be damp with hydrator + a first application of fat liquor. (then I would continue the fatliquoring process, followed by the final hyrdrating wipe down)

Stretching is perform with Hydrator-3.3 and get it fully saturated with a little moisture oozing out when press between fingers and thumb. Cling wrapped (using kitchen cling wrapper) our feet, put on a thin sock and wear the shoe walking around until the shoe is stretched and conform to the shape of our feet. When it becomes too dry apply Hydrator-3.3 again then apply Fatliquor-5.0 with a few drying cycles. When it is dry apply Protector-B+ to the entire interior or lining, now we have a shoe in shape and is easy to slide in and out.


>>> - Does regular brushing of suede reduce the effectiveness of the protector? I brush with a nylon suede brush every few wears or as needed to brush out dust/surface dirt, and use a suede eraser to on dirty spots.

Re-apply what has rub-off and the cycle is repeated.


>>> - Similarly, does brushing of other leathers just rub off the protector? I brush my leather shoes almost every wear to keep them clean

Yes they do rub off protecting the original leather finishes from wearing out from constant brushing. It is reapply after cleaning and brushing.


>>> Finally, below is the type of suede that are used in most of my shoes. This particular example is an unlined snuff suede. The vamp is unlined, and I can see the grain on the inside of the leather. It is snuffed velvety soft, and the suede side is has a short and velvety nap as well. Just wanted to confirm the W+ is indeed the protector for this, or if it's meant for thicker, tougher suedes.

This would be considered to be equivalent to split suede (it all depends on the thickness of the skin and either adult or young). The thinner the split the finer is the suede towards the grains side and coarser towards the flesh side). A lamb or kid suede due to its finest would need S+ to compliment it. Point is we can put on a lighter protector on a heavy material but not the other way round to cheapen it.

A guide to protector usage:
Suede from light to heavy – S+ > W+ > D+
Nubuck – S+ (B+ for Oil Pull-up and D+ for Wax Pull-up),
Smooth leather from light to heavy – S+ > B+ (B+ for Oil Pull-up and D+ for Wax Pull-up),

That was extremely helpful. I placed my order and I have a good idea how to use each product, and what to expect. Thanks again!