How can i fill leather crack on this dress shoes?

Hi Roger,

I need your help to fix this pair of dress shoes.
My customer need them to be fix it on the sides and also to get a factory refinish.
What would you recommend me to use?


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Thanks,
BT

Like to know how this shoe has this problem?

I guess it may be cause by over stretching when the leather is not properly hydrated and fatliquored.

That resulted in breaking up the inter-locking leather fibrils that also weaken the leather structure.

This is my recommendation:

Phase 1: - Leather rejuvenates in conjunction to stretch the leather to conform to the desired configuration for wearing comfort.
The leather has to be soaked damp easier from the inside and also through the damaged areas.
This will cause the leather to relax and easier to be stretch to the desired configuration or shape of the foot.
When the leather is equally stretched and not concentrated only in that small area; it is then fatliquored for suppleness with strength and softness.
Two products is required in this process namely; the Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0.

Phase 2: - Repair to the damaged leather “structure” with Impregnator-26 that will impregnate micro cracks fills and tightens that is film forming to strengthen and becomes part of the leather structure.

Phase 3: - The leather has to be prep for repair and refinishing accordingly depending on what has been used before.
An alcohol stripping may be necessary if solid wax has been used.
Otherwise Prep-7.7 may be used as prep to remove all foreign contamination including conditioners to the raw leather finish.
Surface repair requires Leather Bond-3D in conjunction with matching black to original coloring with a transparent dye using Aniline Dye-63, a translucent Dye using Anitque-26 or a opaque micro color using Pigment Micro-54.
This is done with in between leveling and compressing with Leather Spatula-6, blow drying and fine sanding (1000 to 1500 grit).
It is worked until the cracks are smooth.

Phase 4: Color Coating.
From high-end transparent dye, medium translucent hybrid to low-end opaque micro-pigment has to be determined to match the original.

Phase 5: Gloss, Satin or Matte Top Coating.
For transparent Aniline Dye-63 either used Topcoat Aniline-79Gloss or Topcoat Aniline-53Waxy Matte.
For translucent Dye Antique-26 and Pigment Micro-54 used Topcoat Micro-72Gloss

Mentioned products description can be found in this link:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...read.php?t=360

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
[email protected]

Hi Roger,

I couldn't understand this part.

Surface repair requires Leather Bond-3D in conjunction with matching black to original coloring with a transparent dye using Aniline Dye-63, a translucent Dye using Anitque-26 or a opaque micro color using Pigment Micro-54.

Should i use one of this three with any black dye?

And also phase 4:

From high-end transparent dye, medium translucent hybrid to low-end opaque micro-pigment has to be determined to match the original.

can you explain better for me?

thank you very much,
BT

Hi Roger,

I couldn't understand this part.

Surface repair requires Leather Bond-3D in conjunction with matching black to original coloring with a transparent dye using Aniline Dye-63, a translucent Dye using Anitque-26 or a opaque micro color using Pigment Micro-54.

Should i use one of this three with any black dye?

63, 26 and 54 series each has a black color; decide which series black matches the original; then use it not more than 25% mix with the 3D bond to have a black colored bond instead of natural color for a better aesthetic repair.

And also phase 4:

From high-end transparent dye, medium translucent hybrid to low-end opaque micro-pigment has to be determined to match the original.

The value of leathers at the high-end is usually finished with a “transparent” dye, medium range may be a “translucent” dye and the low-end is usually an “opaque” pigment color.

All these colors as the primary coat; requires a transparent topcoat as the secondary coat.

Therefore in this situation where refinishing is called for; it is preferably to use a “coating” dye instead of a “staining” dye (may not penetrate the topcoat to stain the leather grain).

Aniline Dye-21 is a “staining” transparent dye; Aniline Dye-63 is a “coating” transparent dye.

If transparent dye matches the original use Dye-63 for this shoe repair.

Thanks Roger for your quick reponse.
I ll update my order with June today.

sinceraly,
BT

Can you help me with this one? Because i only have few days left before the costumer come back .

I started cleaning the wax built up using thinner.
Now, how should i proceed next?

Thanks,
BT

The wax need to be totally removed especially the cracks otherwise it may retard the bonding.

When doing so, the thinner will also cause the fatliquor to leach out; and makes the leather stiffer when dry.

To remove any sticky residue from thinner; use Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0.

Thereafter use Hydrator-3.3 to relax the leather prior to Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish the leach out original fatliquor; to lubricate and soften the leather structure when dry.

When dry, Impregnator-26 is applied into these cracks and any surface excess is to be wiped clean; the impregnator is to tighten-up the overstretched fibrils and becomes part of the leather structure thus strengthening it.

Cracks are filled with leather Bond-3D; optional mixed with color; fast dry with blow dryer; and subsequently filled to the brim and dry.

Leather Bond-7A helps to smoothen up the Bond-3D; applied over the 3-D; blow dry and as the milky color turns transparent; work with the leather Spatula-6 to smoothen it.

To ensure dye bonding without peeling (since it has been waxed) use Adhesor-73 to wipe on the entire shoe with a lint-free rag.

Airbrush Aniline Dye-63; blow dry and fine sanding for a smooth finish until satisfactory result.

The final topcoat protection airbrush Topcoat Aniline-79G (gloss); optional sanding in-between coat.


I suggest, a practice is essential on a piece of leather prior to the actual repair to the shoe.

At least you want to know how the products work.

"It is easier to apply; many more times more difficult to removed".

It would be wiser to practice twice and do it right the first time!


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

Thanks Roger.

Which airbrush do you think can suit my needs?
I'm confused on which should be the right needle for this kind of job.
I was thinking about using Preval spray gun.

Thanks again.

I prefer to use the Paasche Single Action Airbrush for detail work like this!

Use the one that has the biggest orifice for this type of work.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®