How to clean waxy pull-up

I just received this leather set. It's two leather recliners and a sofa. Right now I just have one of the recliners and the cushions to the couch until I can pick up the rest. I wont be restoring the first love seat and sofa I posted earlier, this is replacing that but I will be restoring the leather sectional I posted and that kit has been already ordered. I just want to clean the sofa and chairs on this project and not bother too much with trying to remove the oil stain on the recliner's head rest because it blends right in with the rest of the dark cocoa colored chair and don't want to take a chance making it look worst. I know I can use this kit :Aw3 Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Care Kit. Is this all I need? This is for sure Wax pull-up because it does lighten when stretched. I'm actually happy with the patina it has but just want to soften it up and protect it. I know some may say the oil stain is an eyesore but it doesn't appear to be in this case. I also know oil stains damages the leather. What do you suggest, Roger?

I just ordered the kit. If I do any of the oil stain removal, I will use the degreaser from my other kit.

>>> This is for sure Wax pull-up because it does lighten when stretched.

Then use this Aniline (A.pw) Pull-up Wax Leather Problem solving Matrix as reference to clean accordingly to match the soiling level.
From Soiling Type row A1 to A6 and Stain Type mentioned from row B1.

Attachment 6636


>>> just want to soften it up

To soften up the leather structure or the thickness of the leather will need Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 to rejuvenate it.


>>> and protect it

There are 3 levels of protection:

1 – EffectWax-8.6 not only rejuvenates the original fashion pull-up effect, it also coats the surface with a layer of white crystalline and when activated with a heat blower melts to a glossy natural shine a characteristic of Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers. The wax effect is then manipulated to suite desired appearance.

2 – AnilineTop-76G is a polyurethane coat that improves water resistant and gives an extra gloss to this characteristic leather finish type.

3 – Protector-D (scentless) or Protector-D+ (leather scented) is used on a routine basis to correct surface scuff hiding and concealing them.


>>> I also know oil stains damages the leather.

It is the sweat rather than the body oil and grease that damages the leather by shifting the leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve) thus denatures the leather. Signs of sweat damages are:

1 – Dyestuff crocks when dry or bleeds when wet.

2 – The surface becomes tacky when it is moist or wet (the leather is denaturing and reverting to rawhide).

3 – Signs of cracking when the fatliquor (ionic charged fat and oil) breaks hydrogen and leach out.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Attachment 6637
Leather Doctor® Kit-Aw3, aniline wax pull-up leather care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system designed for keeping leathers at their highest level of appearance, maintaining its pH chemistry integrity, enhancing their suppleness and prevents premature ageing. Leathers that faced the sun, closed to fireplace and heaters dries out the fat and oil that keeps it supple sooner than the non-heat exposed areas. The diminishing of the fat and oil through evaporation results in the leather fibers being stick closer together that results in stiffness and when flexed during used will lead to cracks. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to plumps the stick together fibers prior to fat and oil replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple and strong. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness and cracking. WaxEffect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen during periodic care. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced in preventive care with a rub-resistant Protector-D that enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Clean-3.8 follows by Rinse-3.0 to the bare body contact areas like headrest and armrest helps reduce greasy soiling build-up. Restorative cleaning and occasional dye stains removal from new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-4.4. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system for aniline wax pull-up leathers.

Cycle of Care Instruction:

Preventive Care:
A non-stick, rub-resistant protection is recommended to be in place before putting the leather to daily use. Protector-D imparts a soft natural draggy-feel that enhances the leather luxuriously to the sense of touch. The non-stick surface shields the leather from sticky soiling thus prolonging the high level of appearance. Rub-resistant abilities reduce wear to the topcoat and also have properties that seal and conceal scuffing. Optional leather-scented version Protector-D+ diffuses a classic leather scent that boost the sensuous leather more appealing to the leather lover. This protection care commences before usage and at the end of each level of routine, periodic or restorative cleaning cycle.

Instruction:
1. Apply Protector-D on dust free surface after shaking well, towel spread and is ready for use when dry.


Routine Care:
Routine care includes procedures such as general dust cleaning, attending to spots and stains as required especially the neutralizing of sweat or perspiration stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. A routine non-stick rub resistant protection after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather in a more attractive and healthy state while preventing premature wears.

Instruction:
1. Spray Rinse-3.0 on a dust free surface, horsehair Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
2. When dry, apply Protector-D after shaking well, towel spread and is ready for use when dry.


Periodic Care:
Periodic care is recommend before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Body contact surfaces would require more frequent attention than non-body contact surfaces. While the headrest and armrest gets the most of body oil and sweat contacts.

Instruction:
1st phase – Cleaning:
1. Spray Clean-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform saturation application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Towel extract until it shows clean.
3. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
4. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Hydrating is essential to relax unnatural creases and wrinkles. Leather shrunk and becomes stiff when the structural fibers become stick together as the fatliquor diminishes through ageing or under heat over-exposure or under influence of alkaline solution. They are stretched crosswise when the leather is plump. Plumping the stiff leathers may take up to 72hrs under evaporation control. Besides, its pH value of 3.3 helps charge the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to increase the hydrogen bonding attraction between the ionic negative (-ve) fatliquor at the molecular level.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate deep into the leather thickness.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes to break surface tension, depending on severity of dryness, with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time up to 72hrs, to plumps the leather more effectively for ease of cross stretching unnatural creases and wrinkles.

3rd phase – Fatliquoring:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed micro crazing and stitching rows. Periodic fatliquor (ionic negative (-ve) charged emulsion of natural fat and oil) replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus increase leather tensile strength with softness and added intensifying color richness.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 after shaking in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application while still damp about 25% moisture content remaining in between drying until saturated again.
3. Leave the leather for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Wipe surface strays with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.


4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. When dry, apply Protector-D after shaking well, towel spread and is ready for use when dry.


Restorative Care:
Restorative care is the ultimate corrective or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Restorative cleaning is performed by Prep-4.4. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity facilitates coating the surface for effective dwell time. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas. For extreme cases, the Prep-4.4 can stay continuous for up to 72 hours to do its work safely including ‘reverse transferring’ of unwanted dye stains from new blue jeans, newsprints and ballpoint ink.

1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1. Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3. Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat Prep-4.4 with Towel-T5 for a ‘reverse transfer for dyestuff stains, application with a longer dwell time as necessary and check for reverse transfer satisfaction. 6. Proceed with Hydrator-3.3 after Rinse-3.0 and satisfied inspection.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Hydrating is essential to relax unnatural creases and wrinkles. Leather shrunk and becomes stiff when the structural fibers become stick together as the fatliquor diminishes through ageing or under heat over-exposure or under influence of alkaline solution. They are stretched crosswise when the leather is plump. Plumping the stiff leathers may take up to 72hrs under evaporation control. Besides, its pH value of 3.3 helps charge the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to increase the hydrogen bonding attraction between the ionic negative (-ve) fatliquor at the molecular level.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate deep into the leather thickness.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes to break surface tension, depending on severity of dryness, with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time up to 72hrs, to plumps the leather more effectively for ease of cross stretching unnatural creases and wrinkles.

3rd phase – Fatliquoring:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed micro crazing and stitching rows. Periodic fatliquor (ionic negative (-ve) charged emulsion of natural fat and oil) replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus increase leather tensile strength with softness and added intensifying color richness.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 after shaking in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application while still damp about 25% moisture content remaining in between drying until saturated again.
3. Leave the leather for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Wipe surface strays with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. When dry, apply Protector-D after shaking well, towel spread and is ready for use when dry.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

The kit I ordered didn't have the Prep 4.4. After picking up the other recliner I decided to degrease/clean the headrest. I hope between the two kits coming in, I have what I need to do the job. Unfortunately I can't get to the back of the recliner's back rest unless I break it down. My goal with this leather set it to NOT use any other dye.

>>> Unfortunately I can't get to the back of the recliner's backrest unless I break it down.

It is always easier to degrease from the reverse suede side – more open pores and no change of grain damages.
Just need more effort from the front or grain side.
In most degreasing the topcoat already has been damaged, what the shine or gloss we see are the grease and oil.


>>> My goal with this leather set it to NOT use any other dye.

Dyeing is an option – Hydrator-3.3 is used to activate the dormant dyestuff from the leather structure to resurface.
However, AnilineTop-76G is almost a must to return to a gloss or satin appearance.

Here is the rest of the set, I took one of the seat cushions out.

I stand corrected, the kit does have Prep 4.4. So the only thing I need is AnilineTop21 or 76? I assume my gloss will be gone once I do the first few steps. The last picture is the actual color of this leather set, the incandescent light makes the set look like all the other pictures. I will see what it takes to break the recliners down.

The second recliner is in need for some repairs I didn't see earlier. The seat appears to have no topcoat at all as well as a few spots on the side of the arm. As a matter of fact one section of the arm was sanded and now feels like nubuck. That part is last on my repair list because it's in a spot that doesn't get touched or seen. What is needed to restore this recliner? This was definitely sat on more than the other two pieces. The fifth picture is the the sanded side of the arm and the last picture is the seat on the other recliner.

This cow seen better days with those scars.

Which do you recommend, AnilineTop-76 or21? I know the 76 is heavy duty and 21 take more coat to finish but which is better for my two projects?

AnilineTop-76G has more flexibility in application - you can further dilute it with distilled water but not for AnilineTop-21G

Thanks, I will get the 76g on order.

What is the step by step procedure I would use for the recliners that need the most restoring. The degreaser kit is coming in first and a couple of days later the wax pull up kit. The leather eraser-4 and AnilineTop-76g won't be in for a little while. I am going to work on the oil stains. What can I do until the eraser-4 comes in?

Leather Eraser-4 is an essential tool when comes to degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

It is also used after the penetrated soiling particulates wicks to the surface and you will need Eraser-4 for better traction to remove them.

It is also used during the "Dry Prep" after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Here is the recliners after Degreaser>Acidifier>Hydrator. The soil wicked up and I used Eraser4 on one of the chairs as seen in the 1st three pictures. I haven't Erased the second chair but I'm including the picture. They both looked exactly the same after the process. Is my next step is to Hydrate with tissue because I'm sure more soil is going to wick up?

>>> Is my next step is to Hydrate with tissue because I'm sure more soil is going to wick up?

Yes!

The darker areas within this panel may be further work with Degreaser-2.2 and cotton terry towel extract until towel shows clean.

Hydrator-3.3 is to saturate deep into the leather structure until a little moisture ooze out when press between fingers and thumb.

You may then apply Towel-5 skin tight using the Brush-1 to work out any air space and wrapped with cling wrapper for control evaporation and leave it up to 72hours.

Please show some pictures if you are doing it right (otherwise the "reverse-transfer" may not work properly - thus effort and time wasted for another try).

The darker areas within this panel may be further work with Degreaser-2.2 and cotton terry towel extract until towel shows clean.

I will have to substitute Towel-5, they were mistakenly thrown away after I used them. After Degreaser-2.2 can I use Rinse because I have no more Acidifier or do I keep spraying Hydrator-3.3 and wiping until it shows clean? And how long show I let the Degreaser-2 dwell?

Attachment 6716Attachment 6717Attachment 6718Attachment 6719

Wax pull up ottoman. Cleaned 3.8, rinse 3.0, prep 4.4 over night, clean and rinsed again. Going to repair tears re-dye. Will need to apply wax pull-up, any suggestions?

First two pictures are after clean and prep, 2nd set of two are after cleaning and prep.

The sequence should be as follows:

1 – Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Prep-4.4 (this is the Restorative Cleaning system)

2 – Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 (this is the Degreasing system of penetrated body oil, grease and sweat as shown as darker appearance)

3 – CleanProtein-9.9 > Acidifier-2.0 (this is the Protein stain system for spots that has an outer ring, and as protein stains tends to coagulate removal will need a bamboo skewers or toothpick to work out the crusty stains.)

4 – Hydrator-3.3 with reverse transfer technique using Towel-5 helps to wick up soiling particulates especially the penetrated body oil, grease and sweat.

5 – Inspection for stain removal satisfaction otherwise repeat until stain is off the leather surface and work out the stain with Eraser-4 for an even appearance.


>>> Going to repair tears

Like to see where the tears are as repairing with Bond-3D will produce an undesired darkening effect, unless the new dye can camouflage it.


>>> re-dye.
There are two methods of re-dyeing either with “staining” dyestuff with Aniline-21 or with “coating” dyestuff or both in this sequence.

Surfactant-3.6 > Aniline-21 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > EffectWax-8.6 > Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-D or D+

A -Surfactant-3.6 purpose is to break surface tension preparing the surface for an even absorbency without blotchiness.

B - Aniline-21 is the staining dyestuff original used in the tannery and preferably by very light airbrushing for an even appearance.

C - Hydrartor-3.3 is for helping to redistribute the dyestuff for an even appearance.

D - Fatliquor-5.0 is for imparting suppleness to the leather.

E - EffectWax-8.6 is for rejuvenating the characteristic Pull-up effect (Crystal wax deposit is activate with a heat blower to shine).

F – Aniline-76 as the “coating” dyestuff.

G – AnilineTop-76G is an extra gloss over the activated wax (if without Anilne-76 or over Aniline-76)

H – Protector-D or D+ as the finished protector.