Aniline Wax Pull-up - Leather Sectional Fading - What products do you have that would bring this back to "almost new"?

I have an aniline leather sectional that is about 4 yrs old and starting to fade. .
I have had the Leather Techs from the store come out twice over the years to try to repair the fading back and they can do a little but since it is exposed to sun if keeps fading.
I have used Guardsmen leather conditioner (need more).
What products do you have that would bring this back to "almost new"?
I can also put UV film on the windows.
Strong sun here in AZ and I keep shades down most of the day.

Thanks
Bob


#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ilineFade1.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#6
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#7
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#8
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#9
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#10
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

#11
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineFade.jpg

Leather Identification:

Picture #10 shows that these are Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers and may need a test to confirm it. It will usually lighten up in color when it is pulled or stretched, and a litter heat will revert back to original appearance. Besides this is in combination with the darker embossed leather that make up this sectional.

Leather Constituents:

The makeup of leather may be up to 70% protein fiber; the rest are other chemistry that transforms a rawhide into leather. Besides the tanning agents and other leather preservatives against bacteria and fungi, it’s the dyestuff, fatliquor and the fashion wax effect that need to be constantly replenished. Besides these constituents are pH sensitive and to keep them healthy; leather-safe products are recommended; alkaline pH products may break the hydrogen bond between the cationic (+) protein fibers with the anionic (-) leather constituents.

Embossing:

The embossing of this leather is done by pressing the leather surface against a raised, pattern hard surface; the fiber structure of the leather surface becomes distorted so that, on releasing, it retains the mirror image of the hard surface.
The embossing retention is what concerns us when the leather is subject through hydration that may cause the embossing to relax; thus reducing the embossing effect. Usually leathers that are to be embossed is usually chrome tan with aluminum for better retention.

Embossing Precaution:

It is best to have the swatch be tested under hydration preferably for 3 days in a seal zip lock bag; a bid of stretching to stimulate what is going to take place in actual hydrating process to reactivate the dyestuff from within the leather structure to the surface.

Fading:

All dyestuffs fade on exposure to sunlight; indoor UV light do cause fading too. UV film and keeping the shade down will prolong the effect of these bleaching Ultraviolet rays. As can see from picture #1 and #2; there is a different in dyestuff fading strength; thus to bring up to an even appearance the lighter shade has to be build-up; thereafter a take-off from there to the desired intensity. Fading besides the lost of color through sun bleaching; the lost of the primary fatliquor (fat, oil & water) contribute in the lost of intensity.

Transparent Dyestuff:

This is done with transparent aniline dyestuff and the color is build up in layers (unlike pigment color which is “what you see is what you get’’).

Topcoating:

Existing gloss topcoating enhances the beauty of the transparent aniline dye that seals the leather; it will hinder penetration and absorption to a degree; and to avoid uneven absorption the entire topcoating may have to be stripped off if a thorough restoration is in mind.

Body oil, grease and sweat stains:

Prolong contamination thru hydrolysation and oxidation may result in yellow or brownish stain which would not be obvious to the already red brown color. It is the sweat that when ferment from the natural bacteria in the atmosphere turns the pH alkaline and this is more damaging to the leather. It may shift the pH of the protein fiber anionic that repels the other anionic leather constituents especially you would notice the dye bleed in this area more than other areas and will stiff up more than other areas too as a result from the lost of the original fatliquor.


Any question so far before we go into part 2 – the recommended procedure to bring this back to "almost new” ?


Roger Koh
[email protected]

Thanks Roger for the detailed explanation. It is understandable. One thing I noticed on some other pictures I had taken when I bought the sectional is that the embossed leather areas are a little bit darker in color than the smooth sections. So it may not be necessary to get everything the same. You can see a little of this in the photo of the swatches.

I would like to proceed with the swatch testing and repair process and would look forward to your recommendations and product tips.

Thanks
Bob

Here are the recommended products:

1] Kit-AW.c
2] Stripper-2.3
3] Aniline Dye-21
4] Adhesor-73
5] Topcoat Aniline-79G (gloss)

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...oh/Kit-AWc.jpg
Leather Doctor® Aniline Wax Pull-Up Leather Care Kit-AW.c

Contents:
Degreaser-2.2 – 60ml
Prep-4.4 – 60ml
Cleaner-3.8 – 250ml
Rinse-3.0 – 250ml
Hydrator-3.3 – 250ml
Fatliquor-5.0 – 250ml
Wax Effect-8.6 - 250ml
Leather Scent-D – 120ml
Leather (horsehair) Brush-1 – 1pc
3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
Washable Rags – 5pcs

Adhesor-73
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...sor-7360ml.jpg

Aniline Dye-21
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dBrown60ml.jpg

Topcoat Aniline-79G
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...eGloss60ml.jpg


This is the recommended sequence of the refinishing process:

1] Degreasing:
Degreasing of penetrated oil, grease and sweat is done with recommended product – Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0

2] Stripping:
Existing topcoating need to be stripped that also includes those aftermarket conditioner back to the leather dyed crust with recommended product – Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0.

3] Hydrating:
a] To relax the leather structure, by separating the stick together fibrils to reduce unnatural creases and wrinkles (here is where the embossing leather need to be tested out regarding the embossing retention – otherwise an option for these panels to be left out).
b] To move the foreign contamination to the surface to be further extracted or erased.
c] To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure to refresh itself to the surface.
d] To reduce surface tensions for the ease of the fatliquor to distribute evenly throughout the leather structure especially the surface to produce an even appearance.
e] To ionic charge the protein leather fibrils cationic (+) for a more effective and long lasting hydrogen-bonding with the anionic (-) fatliquor.
Product recommended – Hydrator-3.3.

4] Dyeing:
a] Transparent Aniline color matching dyestuff is airbrushed to even out the color difference.
b] Hydrate it one more time to distribute the dyestuff evenly.
Product recommended – Aniline Dye-21 (Red Brown or a blend of Orange and/or Yellow to match existing color).

5] Fatliquoring:
a] Fatliquoring is the process of replenishing the diminished original fatliquor that keeps the leather soft, strong and suppleness.
b] Fatliquor which comprises of ionic charged fat, oil and water is a contributing factor to the intensity of the color too.
c] A healthy leather average moisture content is about 14% and these comes mainly from the fatliquor – as the life-blood of leathers diminishes the color lightens, leather stiffen and creases becomes more apparent, when flex eventually the fibrils breaks that leads to cracks.
Product recommended – Fatliquor-5.0

6] Rejuvenating the Fashion Wax Pull-up Effect:
a] It is to restore the original pull up effect; that when pull or stretch it turns lighter in shade; another characteristic feature is that of a natural waxy crinkle look.
b] The secondary effect is the natural waxy shine; this is achieved about 4 hours after application (depending on the temperature and humidity) a white cloudy crystal will form on the surface that when heat (hair dryer) activated will produce a natural waxy shine.
Product recommended – Wax Effect-8.6

7] Topcoat Protection:
a] An urethane topcoat gives a much durable protection, than what can be derived from just using the Wax Effect-8.6; this is what original being done at the tannery.
b] To achieve a good bonding; an adhesion promoter is recommended prior to the topcoating.
Product recommended – Adhesor-73 > Topcoat Aniline-79G.

8] Non-stick, rub-resistant protection:
a] This is first applied and reapplied on a routine basis as the first defense against sticky soiling and reduce the dry and wet rub.
b] It helps to eliminate those scuff common found in these leather types too.
c] Besides you will know that your leather is truly leather, your nose will sniff it out; for the scent of leather is more leathery than the leather itself – smells better than most showroom high-end leathers.
Product recommended – Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) with the classic leather scent.

So with the above recommendation we should take care of not just the look, in terms of color and smartness; but also how the leather should be handle characteristically, what a wax pull-up leather should be; its original tactile draggy-feel and the added bonus of the unforgettable legendary classic leather scent.

If you can follow instruction you can achieve the “almost new” as you wish or even better.


Check your email for the recommended product prices.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Thanks again for all the process steps. Looks like a lot of "technique" may be required to obtain a nice uniform streak free finish. Can this be done over a weekend?
Never used and airbrush before - do you supply these also? What about custom color matched dyes? Are these enough supplies for this size sectional?

Does the final topcoat/finish help out at all with the fading or will I always have this with the aniline dye finish?

And lastly - what will this cost and where do I buy these supplies? Can't find your web site.

Thanks
Bob

Looks like a lot of "technique" may be required to obtain a nice uniform streak free finish.
Each step not only accomplish its immediate purpose; but also in preparation for the next step; in a continuous sequence of process; as each process will adds up to how good or bad the whole project will turn out – Unsatisfactorily, OK or Excellent!

Can this be done over a weekend?
To produce a mediocre result why not; to produce an Excellent result not possible!

Never used an airbrush before - do you supply these also?
Check out some local equipment rental places or engage some professional to do this phase of spraying for you.

What about custom color matched dyes?
You may want to send me a sample to custom match for you; otherwise get the smallest sizes and do it at your end.

Are these enough supplies for this size sectional?
It is recommended that the smallest quantity is purchase to test a cushion out; thereafter the remainder will be estimated from this test-out.

Does the final topcoat/finish help out at all with the fading or will I always have this with the aniline dye finish?
UV light will still go through this transparent urethane topcoat to bleach out the dyes; so no help at all!

And lastly - what will this cost and where do I buy these supplies? Can't find your web site.
Check your emails for the prices; product is direct from Leather Doctor® coming on line soon as www.leatherdoctor.com


Roger Koh
[email protected]