Recolor Aniine Couch in Good Shape

Hello, Roger.
From our discussion: I have a couch in very good shape, but the color is teal instead of the deep blue I ordered. The leather, Echo Blue Marlin, is an aniline wax pull-up leather (specs attached). I would really like to darken the leather. The couch was custom-ordered and delivered in 11/16. I have no family, no pets, and rarely use the couch. The leather quality is awesome - but the color is wrong.

From reading the aniline forum, if I understand it correctly, any color change may require depositing pigment and will likely obscure the natural characteristics of the leather. That's a shame, because I do like the leather. Is there any way to possibly darken the leather and retain the natural quality? If not, can you recommend a complete system to change the color? I have attached pictures. It isn't necessary to go 100% deep blue, but I just hate teal.

You recommended

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/aniline...ing-kit-a7-cl/ in Navy Blue.

Questions:
1) Does the kit come with instructions? Or should I use the instructions for Aniline 21
2) There doesn't appear to be any staining or abrasions and the leather is very soft. Should I still go through all the steps using Adhesor, Hydrator, Fat-liquor, etc? Don't mind doing it if the couch will be better.
2) Will one kit be enough for the couch? It's roughly 76x34x24

Thanks, Carol

Picture 1 Attachment 9912 Original Color
Picture 2 Attachment 9913 Desired Color

>>> The leather, Echo Blue Marlin, is an aniline wax pull-up leather

This leather in appearance is a transparent aniline-dyed finish, otherwise, an opaque pigment would look monotone in appearance. Wax pull-up in the secondary leather structure conditioner that has a characteristic of lightening up when it is pulled or scratched. A little warm rubbing with our hand returns back to normal. With the wax effect, the luster is normally more glossy than typical aniline leather. As both primary fatliquor conditioner and secondary wax effect conditioner diminishes as the leather age, the leather loses its suppleness and the characteristic wax effect.

>>> From reading the aniline forum, if I understand it correctly, any color change may require depositing pigment and will likely obscure the natural characteristics of the leather.

To change color will require an opaque pigment is correct, so we can change from red to blue for example. Saturating with increase intensity within a close color range, a darker transparent dyestuff will still do the job. A test can confirm when you apply Aniline-76 navy blue on a clear see-thru plastic sheet and place over your “teal” leather for your desired result. Color intensity increases with multiple layers until satisfaction. Otherwise Aniline-76 black can be added to navy blue for a darker result or less fine airbrushing coats.


>>> 1) Does the kit come with instructions?

Individual products will have their instruction. If you take instruction from here, then it is specific for your project.


>>> Or should I use the instructions for Aniline 21

Aniline-21 is not suitable for your application, as it is a “staining” dyestuff into the leather grain. Your existing leather already has a finishing, so you will need a “coating” dyestuff like Aniline-76 to stick on the surface of the existing finishing. However, the existing surface will need degreasing, dry preparation and a primer coating before the Aniline-76 follows with AnilineTop-76G then Protector-B/B+.


>>> 2) There doesn't appear to be any staining or abrasions and the leather is very soft. Should I still go through all the steps using Adhesor, Hydrator, Fat-liquor, etc? Don't mind doing it if the couch will be better.

A holistic process will includes the following steps: Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Dry preparation > Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-B/B+


>>> 2) Will one kit be enough for the couch? It's roughly 76x34x24
Every kit is just a system kit, and all individual products are available to finish your project. We can estimate, how much you will need later.
Professional results are produced with fine Airbrushing.


Attachment 9923
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Hi, Roger. The products arrived (kit A7-cl) and everything looks great. One product appears to have seeped out - Cleaner 3.8. Is there something I can use instead of Cleaner 3.8 so I can get started? The only other cleaner I have is Furniture Clinic Leather Cleaner - the MSDS doesn't have much info on it and the product info says <5% anionic and <5% non-ionic surfactants. Some benzalkonium chloride and fragrances. I haven't ever used it - and I don't have any pH paper, although I can probably get some from Amazon.

I am looking forward to getting started and I was wondering if you had time next week to do a 1 hour consultation? I look forward to hearing from you and getting started! Best regards, Carol

>>> One product appears to have seeped out - Cleaner 3.8.
Please remove the wrapping and weight the entire bottle and send me a picture.


>>> Is there something I can use instead of Cleaner 3.8 so I can get started?

In a refinishing project, LeatherCleaner-3.8 > LeatherRinse-3.0 is only a secondary cleaning to the non-soiling exposed areas. The main cleaning depends very much on Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system to remove greasy and oily soiling that might interfere with the adhesion of coating dyestuff. It is also used as an extra cleaning as Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system. Any specialty is between these two cleaning systems as: Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > (specialty cleaning system) Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system you may want to take a look at this matrix . . .
# Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide.
Attachment 9941

And this Stain Identification guide.

Leather Stain Identification

Appearance -
Stain identification by appearance will show whether it is the characteristic of a spill, rub-on, penetrated, or deposited. It may also reveal dye or finishes damages caused by the stain.

Odor -
Stain identification by smell can be very helpful in positive identification. Some of the more common odors may be moldy, smoke, putrid, or ammonia from urine.

Color -
Stain identification by color will also give a clue to the staining material. If the stain is red, it could be beverages, nail polish, lipstick, blood, or some other things. Color identification may not necessarily be right; with time, a red bloodstain may turn to a stain that is tan to black. The color of the leather may mesmerize or alter the color of the stain.

Feel of Hand -
Stain identification by feel of hand may help determine the stain types. For instance, if it is sticky and red it could be candy, beverages, or other things that have sugar in them. If the stain is brittle and stiff, it may be nail polish, shellac, or paint. If it smears, it may have a grease base to it, such as lipstick.
Location - Stain identification by location may give a clue as to the makeup of the staining substance. If it is dark at the headrest or the edge of the armrest, it is most likely stain by body oil, grease, and perspiration by hand or by the head.

Buildup or Absorbed -
A stain may take several appearances. The stain may be lying on top of the leather (buildup) on most pigmented leather or absorbed into the leather on most unfinished, aniline, and nubuck leathers. Naturally, it could also be a combination of absorbed and built up. If it has been absorbed, this will be an indication that it was a liquid when it penetrates the leather. It should also alert us that it may have chemically changed the dye of the leather. An example of this would be a perspiration stain that has reacted with the leather dye and changed it in some way. This would occur more likely on dyed absorbent leathers. The perspiration could also have weakened the fibers of the leather. In any event, this leather may show a marked color change in that area after spotting, and possibly after cleaning. Examples of built-up stains are paint and some foodstuff, etc. Examples of absorbed stains are beverages, wine, tea, coffee, etc. A combination stain may be lipstick, ink, mustard, etc. it will have part of its staining matter absorbed into the leather, and part of it accumulated on the surface. A stain may also be a substance that has wet solvent-soluble and dry solvent-soluble components combined. An example of this would be gravy which contains grease, flour (from a plant), and milk (from an animal). Paint type stains are readily detected because of their stiff nature and generally bright colors and they seem to be sitting on top of the leather. When identifying stains always try to determine whether they are of a protein, cellulose, oil-based, or a colloidal make-up nature. Three common types of soiling or stain are solvent-soluble, water-soluble, and insoluble. Stains are frequently of a combination nature, and in most instances, there will be no information from the customer regarding the stain especially if they are bought used.

>>> I was wondering if you had time next week to do a 1-hour consultation?

I have sent you a Paypal invoice for the 1 hour consultation to set you right the first time.