D1 WW2 Flight Jacket

Hello from Paris France,

I would like to buy some products on the web site, but before I need your opinion of what I have to use?

I found an old ww2 sheepskin D1 flight jacket in an old attic, I think it stay here 50 years!!!! Leather outside and wool inside

So, the jacket is stiff and the wool is a bit yellow, stiff also, but in overall good condition, the problem is that the jacket stink a lot a old mold odor, so I would like to make the best for this jacket : a good cleaning, sanitization brushing soils....

Same thing for the leather side, it's a bit stiff with mold odor....

Please can you help me how to proceed exactly and the products list I have to take?

Thanks for your reply and sorry for my poor english!!!!!!

Titi73

>>> I found an old ww2 sheepskin D1 flight jacket in an old attic, I think it stay here 50 years!!!! Leather outside and wool inside

Shearling (Nappalan Aniline)
Shearling Nappalan Aniline produces a 'sauvage' appearance and is smooth leather on the outer side finished over the suede and shorn wool on the inner side. Depending on the finishes used, the absorbent types are easily scuffed and will create a distress look when the suede naps are partially revealed. They are made from the pelts of sheepskin or lambskin by tanning them with the wool of uniform depth still on them.

See the range of kits available from this link:
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/shearl...palan-aniline/

>>>So, the jacket is stiff and the wool is a bit yellow, stiff also, but in overall good condition, the problem is that the jacket stink a lot a old mold odor, so I would like to make the best for this jacket : a good cleaning, sanitization brushing soils.... Same thing for the leather side, it's a bit stiff with mold odor....

So certainly this jacket has compound problems that will need to be solved in successive sequences dovetailing to your desired result in one continuous process.
General cleaning is needed for both sides, starting first with the wool with this sequence found in the Kit-Sn4 as . . . CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 > Protector-S/S+. (Yellowing of the wool may improve with rising with a lower pH value with Acidifier-2.0

https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leatheracidifier-2-0-1/

and reverse oxidation by reduction-oxidation (redox)with Vachetta-2.8).

The details you can find in https://www.leatherdoctor.com/vachet...remover-2-8-1/

Attachment 10624
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/shearl...-care-kit-sn4/

See mold odor inhibitor product here: https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...hibitor-3-6-1/

When the wool side is taken care of and dry. Proceed with the leather side as follows:
Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > (Mold-3.6) > Protector-b/B+

General cleaning is performed by the Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system.

Leather stiffness is rejuvenated by the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.

Mold odor is inhibited by Mold-3.6.
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...hibitor-3-6-1/

Body odor is freshened with CleanOdor-4.5
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leatherodorremover-4-5-1/

Attachment 10623
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

[QUOTE=Roger Koh;39146]>>> I found an old ww2 sheepskin D1 flight jacket in an old attic, I think it stay here 50 years!!!! Leather outside and wool inside

Shearling (Nappalan Aniline)
Shearling Nappalan Aniline produces a 'sauvage' appearance and is smooth leather on the outer side finished over the suede and shorn wool on the inner side. Depending on the finishes used, the absorbent types are easily scuffed and will create a distress look when the suede naps are partially revealed. They are made from the pelts of sheepskin or lambskin by tanning them with the wool of uniform depth still on them.

See the range of kits available from this link:
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/shearl...palan-aniline/

>>>So, the jacket is stiff and the wool is a bit yellow, stiff also, but in overall good condition, the problem is that the jacket stink a lot a old mold odor, so I would like to make the best for this jacket : a good cleaning, sanitization brushing soils.... Same thing for the leather side, it's a bit stiff with mold odor....

So certainly this jacket has compound problems that will need to be solved in successive sequences dovetailing to your desired result in one continuous process.
General cleaning is needed for both sides, starting first with the wool with this sequence found in the Kit-Sn4 as . . . CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 > Protector-S/S+. (Yellowing of the wool may improve with rising with a lower pH value with Acidifier-2.0

https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leatheracidifier-2-0-1/

and reverse oxidation by reduction-oxidation (redox)with Vachetta-2.8).

The details you can find in https://www.leatherdoctor.com/vachet...remover-2-8-1/

Attachment 10624
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/shearl...-care-kit-sn4/

See mold odor inhibitor product here: https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...hibitor-3-6-1/

When the wool side is taken care of and dry. Proceed with the leather side as follows:
Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > (Mold-3.6) > Protector-b/B+

General cleaning is performed by the Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system.

Leather stiffness is rejuvenated by the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.

Mold odor is inhibited by Mold-3.6.
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...hibitor-3-6-1/

Body odor is freshened with CleanOdor-4.5
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leatherodorremover-4-5-1/

Hi Roger, thanks for your fast reply,
Now I prepare my order, just one thing, can you just tell me when, in the wool side sequence ,I have to proceed with acidifier and Vachetta 2.8 (yelowing of the wool) and also mold ?

I understand that for wool side :
CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 > Protector-S/S+ > Acidifier-2.0 >vacheta and mold 3.6 at the end, is that correct?

Thanks again

Titi73

Hi Roger
Thanks for your fast reply!
I'm now on my account to place my order!
Just one thing:
In the wool cleaning sequence I understand that:
CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 > Protector-S/S > Acidifier-2.0 >Vachetta 2.8 > and mold 3.6 and the end, is that correct?

Thanks again

Titi73

>>> In the wool cleaning sequence I understand that:
CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 > Protector-S/S > Acidifier-2.0 >Vachetta 2.8 > and mold 3.6 and the end, is that correct?


Recommend:
CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 > Acidifier-2.0 (wait until it dries) > Vachetta-2.8 > Acidifier-2.0 (wait until it dries) > Mold-3.6 (wait until it dries) > Protector-S/S+ (wait until it dries and ready to use or turn over to clean the leather side).

Thank you Roger for your reply,
I place my big order yesterday !!!!!!
For the wool sequence that's ok!
for leather side I note:
Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > (Mold-3.6) > Protector-b/B+
I have to wait until it dries between them please?
Thanks again

>>>Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > (Mold-3.6) > Protector-b/B+

Clean-3.8 > (damp) > Rinse-3.0 > (damp) > Hydrator-3.3 > (damp) > Fatliquor-5.0 > (dry) > (Mold-3.6) > (dry) > Protector-B/B+ (dry and is ready for use).


>>> I have to wait until it dries between them please?

I mentioned ‘damp’ means that after towel extraction moisture until the towel almost shows dry but the leather structure is actually damp. Dry means let nature dry, perhaps overnight, do not use any heating device including a hairdryer. To reduce stiffness to the leather or increase suppleness, stretch and massage the leather to dimension before it becomes dry.

Hi Roger,
I just received my order, thank you !!!!!!

One more thing, can I use demineralized water because I cant find distilled ?
About the bottles, I have to add water and stop at five centimeters of the top on each , is it correct?
Thank you for your reply!
regards

>>> One more thing, can I use demineralized water because I cant find distilled ?

Alright!


>>> About the bottles, I have to add water and stop at five centimeters of the top on each , is it correct?

Correct!

Hi Roger ,
just to let you know that the process is now ok, the products i bought are perfect!
just 2 things:
-In the wool side, there's already a little attic smell, what do you advice (maybe essentials oil?) I follow all the cleaning process like you said up before?
-In the leather side, yesterday I treat with hydrator and after fat liquor like you said, when damp the leather was soft and now it's dry and it's already a little stiff, what's your advice for this please?
thanks for your reply
best

>>> -In the wool side, there's already a little attic smell, what do you advice (maybe essentials oil?) I follow all the cleaning process like you said up before?

Clean again with CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 to reduce unwanted smell.


>>> -In the leather side, yesterday I treat with hydrator and after fat liquor like you said, when damp the leather was soft and now it's dry and it's already a little stiff, what's your advice for this please?

Before the Fatliquor-5.0 goes completely dry, massage it to dry to ensure beetle suppleness. However, it still depends on the percentage of fatliquor when it dries, tannery standard is 15%. Sufficient fatliquoring will also increase tear strength.