Chanel - What can I do to restore this vintage Chanel

Hello,

I was wondering if there is a way to restore the softness to my vintage Chanel without having to re-dye? It does not have much fading but was not stored properly and is dry and stiff in places...some areas worse than others. I want to do as little as possible as it is vintage and I'd like it retain it's vintage look. I just want to restore the leather to a healthier state if possible and soften/condition the leather to lessen the possibility of cracking. Thank you in advance for your time!
Attachment 1244Attachment 1245Attachment 1246Attachment 1247Attachment 1248

A few more photos....Attachment 1249Attachment 1250Attachment 1251Attachment 1252sorry they are so huge!

>>>I was wondering if there is a way to restore the softness to my vintage Chanel without having to re-dye?


Certainly, you can, as there are many areas of restoration, color is just one of the many. To restore the softness, we have to go into the thickness of the leather to replenish the fat and oil, which have diminished both by evaporation and by breaking of the bonds between the amphoteric protein fibers and the fat and oil. Heat is one cause of fat and oil evaporation, sweat is another cause of the breaking of the hydrogen bonding, especially if you can detect an ammonia smell from the urea trace of sweat. Restoration to soften the leather is accomplished by Hydrator-3.3to relax the tension prior to replenish with Fatliquor-5.0. The saturation of the hydrator is best done when the leather express a little oozing of the hydrator when press between finger and thumb. If this level of saturation is left to dwell for up to 24 hours or so, it will also activate the dormant dyestuff to resurface, thus saving new dye application as well. However, a topcoat application will improve the appearance as some of the finishes is wear off especially seen on the 3rd pictures on the front.

Pictures Observation:

Picture #1 – Wear
The front left corner shows wear of the topcoat to the area with bluish appearance instead of pure black.

Picture #2 – Structure Collapsing
This picture shows the folding develops creases, as the leather is now quite empty of its fats. Fatliquor is an emulsion of fat and oil; it is the fats that plumps the leather with fullness, the oils lubricates so that the interlocking fibers can slide over one another smoothly like millions of hinges. The quilting has loss its puffiness as well, instead of convex or curving outwards, it now concave due to shrinkage with the lack of fatliquor. The percentage of fatliquor during tannery averages 14% and as it dries the leather shrink that is the reason for the shrinkage.

Picture #3 – Topcoating Wear:
This picture suggest that this bag is often hold by the right hand and open by the left hand – am I right?
Fingernails often cause surface wear; appearance could be easily improved with fresh topcoat application with the old and deteriorated removed by Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0.

Picture #4 – Creases and Concaving of the Quilting:
This appearance is the lack of fatliquor, which diminish through time – the bag loses its smartness of appearance.
Correction is by hydrating to relax the uneven tension and relax the shrinkages thereafter fat and oil is replenished to rejuvenate it.

Picture #5 – Over-Stretching:
The bottom of the bag may have overwork that caused the over-stretching that weakens the structure.

The rest of the pictures are all about the leather structure being too dry that cause uneven compression that develops “coarse breaks” or heavy creases, where the often flex lines becomes too soft and the seldom flex areas becomes too stiff. If left unattended the too lose creases will eventually develops cracks as the interlocking fibrils without lubrication breaks.

Products available for a complete restoration are found in this Leather Doctor® Kit A7.cl, while topcoat restoration products mentioned are found in this Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc.

Let me know your reconsideration and we can discuss the approach to take, with or without redyeing.

Roger Koh
[email protected]


Leather Doctor® Kit A7.cl
Attachment 1257


Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc
Attachment 1258

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>>I was wondering if there is a way to restore the softness to my vintage Chanel without having to re-dye?


Certainly, you can, as there are many areas of restoration, color is just one of the many. To restore the softness, we have to go into the thickness of the leather to replenish the fat and oil, which have diminished both by evaporation and by breaking of the bonds between the amphoteric protein fibers and the fat and oil. Heat is one cause of fat and oil evaporation, sweat is another cause of the breaking of the hydrogen bonding, especially if you can detect an ammonia smell from the urea trace of sweat. Restoration to soften the leather is accomplished by Hydrator-3.3to relax the tension prior to replenish with Fatliquor-5.0. The saturation of the hydrator is best done when the leather express a little oozing of the hydrator when press between finger and thumb. If this level of saturation is left to dwell for up to 24 hours or so, it will also activate the dormant dyestuff to resurface, thus saving new dye application as well. However, a topcoat application will improve the appearance as some of the finishes is wear off especially seen on the 3rd pictures on the front.

Pictures Observation:

Picture #1 – Wear
The front left corner shows wear of the topcoat to the area with bluish appearance instead of pure black.

Picture #2 – Structure Collapsing
This picture shows the folding develops creases, as the leather is now quite empty of its fats. Fatliquor is an emulsion of fat and oil; it is the fats that plumps the leather with fullness, the oils lubricates so that the interlocking fibers can slide over one another smoothly like millions of hinges. The quilting has loss its puffiness as well, instead of convex or curving outwards, it now concave due to shrinkage with the lack of fatliquor. The percentage of fatliquor during tannery averages 14% and as it dries the leather shrink that is the reason for the shrinkage.

Picture #3 – Topcoating Wear:
This picture suggest that this bag is often hold by the right hand and open by the left hand – am I right?
Fingernails often cause surface wear; appearance could be easily improved with fresh topcoat application with the old and deteriorated removed by Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0.

Picture #4 – Creases and Concaving of the Quilting:
This appearance is the lack of fatliquor, which diminish through time – the bag loses its smartness of appearance.
Correction is by hydrating to relax the uneven tension and relax the shrinkages thereafter fat and oil is replenished to rejuvenate it.

Picture #5 – Over-Stretching:
The bottom of the bag may have overwork that caused the over-stretching that weakens the structure.

The rest of the pictures are all about the leather structure being too dry that cause uneven compression that develops “coarse breaks” or heavy creases, where the often flex lines becomes too soft and the seldom flex areas becomes too stiff. If left unattended the too lose creases will eventually develops cracks as the interlocking fibrils without lubrication breaks.

---

Hello Roger and thank you so much for your detailed reply! I do not smell even the faintest hint of ammonia...she just smells like old leather. Although the wear to the corners and front of the bag is much more visible in the photos than in real life, the topcoat does definitely show some wear and I believe that the bag would indeed benefit from a new topcoat. I would like to restore the hydration and fatliquor to the leather and redo the topcoat without redyeing. Is this really something I can do myself? What will happen to the lining if I saturate the leather with product? The lining has some flaking but can be replaced by Chanel as long as they cannot tell that the bag has been serviced by anyone other than Chanel. I have seen some of their "restorations" and don't trust them to do that part, but I am concerned about sending the bag in for the lining when the outer leather is so fragile. I don't want to further damage the bag. Thanks again and I look forward to your response!

Sincerely,

DJ

>>>Is this really something I can do myself?
If you have check out this forum, you will see how some DIY have done it smilingly.
I have personally done Chanel bags have can share with you my experience whatever the situation of the condition.

>>>What will happen to the lining if I saturate the leather with product?
I suggest you show a picture of the lining.
If they are the typical maroon color lining, this are the pigmented opaque finish as oppose to the transparent black aniline finish.
Before you saturate any leather, you should check the pH value of the products and only product ranges from 3 to 5 are safe to do so.
A leather-safe product can saturate the leather up to 72 hours to rejuvenate the leather for each hydrating and fatliquoring treatment to achieve the best result.

>>>The lining has some flaking
It is very common to see flaking in used Chanel bag and most of these are the pigment that peels from flexing can compression.
Some of these linking are leather as well and benefit from leather rejuvenating from Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0.
Leather dried of its fat and oil weakens and thus the finishes peel from the weakness of the leather rather than if the leather is strong it is due to adhesion.
To solve both cases, besides replenishing the fat and oil for structure softness and strength, an adhesion promoter Adhesor-73 is applied prior to the color matching maroon and seal with a matte or satin luster topcoat to match.

>>>I have seen some of their "restorations" and don't trust them to do that part
Which part, the outer surface?
Can you share your experience, so I know my recommendation would not be disappointing?

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>>Is this really something I can do myself?
If you have check out this forum, you will see how some DIY have done it smilingly.
I have personally done Chanel bags have can share with you my experience whatever the situation of the condition.

>>>What will happen to the lining if I saturate the leather with product?
I suggest you show a picture of the lining.
If they are the typical maroon color lining, this are the pigmented opaque finish as oppose to the transparent black aniline finish.
Before you saturate any leather, you should check the pH value of the products and only product ranges from 3 to 5 are safe to do so.
A leather-safe product can saturate the leather up to 72 hours to rejuvenate the leather for each hydrating and fatliquoring treatment to achieve the best result.

>>>The lining has some flaking
It is very common to see flaking in used Chanel bag and most of these are the pigment that peels from flexing can compression.
Some of these linking are leather as well and benefit from leather rejuvenating from Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0.
Leather dried of its fat and oil weakens and thus the finishes peel from the weakness of the leather rather than if the leather is strong it is due to adhesion.
To solve both cases, besides replenishing the fat and oil for structure softness and strength, an adhesion promoter Adhesor-73 is applied prior to the color matching maroon and seal with a matte or satin luster topcoat to match.

>>>I have seen some of their "restorations" and don't trust them to do that part
Which part, the outer surface?
Can you share your experience, so I know my recommendation would not be disappointing?

Roger Koh
[email protected]

---

Hi Roger,

Last question first...My concern is with Chanel doing the outside. The 3 bags I have seen that were "restored" by Chanel just looked like they had been conditioned a bit and then "painted" with something shiny? Did not perk up the quilting at all...it was still very concave. The leather felt rather grainy or sandy instead of the smooth finish you typically find on Chanel vintage bags. In other words, they "looked" better due to a more consistent finish but not really "healthier". I have recently found out that there are 2 or 3 places in the US that do repairs/restorations for Chanel and of the course the factory in Paris for certain repairs. I guess some do a better job than others but you never know where your bag is going to end up. Chanel will replace the lining rather than restore it.

I am attaching photos of some of the places where the flaking is occurring on the lining. I just have this feeling that the lining is NOT leather, although it is the traditional maroon. I understand that Chanel experimented with some synthetic materials over the years for the linings. Apparently they will replace the lining on many of the bags with these synthetic linings as they proved to be problematic. I have several other Chanel bags but none with the maroon lining so I can't compare but the lining in this bag feels too soft? I don't know how to describe it. It feels thicker than the linings in my other bags...almost "fluffy" or "spongy".

I was referring to your products when I said "saturate" the leather, which from my reading here...are the appropriate and safe Ph for leather... This is correct, yes?

Do you personally do restorations on Chanel bags?

Thanks again for your time...I really appreciate the help!!!!

Kindest regards,

DJ

Attachment 1264Attachment 1265Attachment 1266Attachment 1267

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>>Is this really something I can do myself?
If you have check out this forum, you will see how some DIY have done it smilingly.
I have personally done Chanel bags have can share with you my experience whatever the situation of the condition.

>>>What will happen to the lining if I saturate the leather with product?
I suggest you show a picture of the lining.
If they are the typical maroon color lining, this are the pigmented opaque finish as oppose to the transparent black aniline finish.
Before you saturate any leather, you should check the pH value of the products and only product ranges from 3 to 5 are safe to do so.
A leather-safe product can saturate the leather up to 72 hours to rejuvenate the leather for each hydrating and fatliquoring treatment to achieve the best result.

>>>The lining has some flaking
It is very common to see flaking in used Chanel bag and most of these are the pigment that peels from flexing can compression.
Some of these linking are leather as well and benefit from leather rejuvenating from Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0.
Leather dried of its fat and oil weakens and thus the finishes peel from the weakness of the leather rather than if the leather is strong it is due to adhesion.
To solve both cases, besides replenishing the fat and oil for structure softness and strength, an adhesion promoter Adhesor-73 is applied prior to the color matching maroon and seal with a matte or satin luster topcoat to match.

>>>I have seen some of their "restorations" and don't trust them to do that part
Which part, the outer surface?
Can you share your experience, so I know my recommendation would not be disappointing?

Roger Koh
[email protected]

---

Hi again Roger,

I forgot to ask... will using the hydrator and fatliquor products mean that I MUST redo the topcoat? Or is it possible that I will not need to? Also, as for giving me instruction that may disappoint...not to worry as I don't expect perfection or a "new" looking bag and I understand that it is difficult to give opinions when you do not have the bag in hand. I just feel like the results I've seen from Chanel's "restoration" are less than the best they could do. I also do not see a place to purchase your products so I must be overlooking it? Thanks again and I look forward to your reply.

Kindest regards,

DJ