A dark Grease Spot on my Red Aniline Leather Skirt – how to remove it?

I have a leather skirt, which has a dark grease (I think) stain and a few other small stains on it.
I don't know what kind of leather it is but it is smooth, supple and soft.
I didn't know it wasn't protected (not very well anyway).
It stains very easily and the stains seem to soak right into the leather.
I tried wiping it with a bit of soapy foam and tried sprinkling baby powder on it.
Neither removed the stains.
Having seen how easily the leather stains, I didn't want to use any product that might leave any oil or grease on it.
I was also afraid to spot clean it in case that would result in faded spots.
I got a feeling it would actually be safer to immerse the whole thing in soapy water so I washed it inside out in the woolen cycle in a mesh bag in the washing machine with Castile soap.
The stains are still there after the wash.
What would you suggest I use to remove the stains without rubbing off the colour and creating faded spots?
And, what should be used to condition and protect it after cleaning?

Please find attached pictures of the red leather skirt with stains.
It might be aniline?
It is supple, soft and smooth.
It absorbs moisture so it stains easily and spot cleaning seems to be a bad idea.
I hope to remove as much of the stains as possible before applying any conditioner or protector on it.
I washed it (please see my previous email below if additional information is helpful).

Catherine

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...tStain-046.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...tStain-050.jpg

Leather Identification:
This leather is identified as “Goatskin”. Goatskin has this special pebble grain texture. It is also tougher to scratches than sheepskin. Typically, goatskin is more expensive then sheepskin and
pigskin.

Leather Finish Identification:
This leather is positively identified as “Pure Aniline” as it has a very natural luster without the typical gloss of a Topcoated aniline.

Protection:
The only original protection it has is a typical dye fix. Dye Fix-99 is such product and when used on pure-aniline allows the natural transpiration to take place while it reduces crocking and
bleeding. The heavier the protection the less value is the leather. In leather, less is more beautiful and this is the most beautiful leather among all the other aniline variety with a premium price.


What would you suggest I use to remove the stains without rubbing off the color and creating faded spots?


To understand how to clean and remove spots on leather without rubbing off the color and creating faded spots, we need to know how leather behaves when it comes in contact with any liquid solution. We have to acknowledge that leather is rawhide/skin that is converted from an “amphoteric” protein fiber with the help of non-amphoteric tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. They come together by hydrogen bonding with a positive and a negative ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein component is sensitive to pH value, while the other constituents remain stable. Liquid solutions that comes in contact that has a pH above its neutral pH of 4, also known as its iso-electric point (pI) of the leather will cause the protein leather fiber to shift ionic negative (-ve). Conversely any solution below the pI average of pH 4 will strengthen the protein fiber positive (+ve). It is when the ionic positive protein fiber begins to shift negative (-ve) that the leather begins to denature. When tanning agent breaks its hydrogen bond, it results in stickiness of the leather and denaturing back to rawhide/skin. The leather dyestuff will start to bleed from the protein fiber once the ionic attraction weakens. Drying of the leather that stiffens and when flex cracks is the result of diminishing or leaching out of the fatliquor that breaks the hydrogen bond as well.

All cleaning products has to have its pH value check and any alkaline product used has to be neutralized back to its neutral pH value of 3 – 5. This is the “leather-safe” approach to leather
cleaning. Products suffix of leather-safe system denotes its pH value, thus making the leather-safe system simple to understand and use.

From now on, just identify the stain on the leather and use this aniline leather problem-solving guide as reference.


And, what should be used to condition and protect it after cleaning?

The basic fatliquor condition will return the leather less stiff and it will drape as it is relaxed.

A non-stick, rub-resistant protection with a silky feel is how this leather is suppose to be enjoyed with optional leather scent.


The left column is where we identify the problem, the top row is product that is to be use and the number suggest the sequence of process.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Ap.jpg
Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.p) – Pure-Aniline Leathers


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n.../KitA3dr-1.jpg
Leather Doctor® Kit A3.dr

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Thank you, Roger for the clear explanations.

1) I am not sure what kind of stains they are. I know the biggest one appeared after I had Chinese dim sum. So it is a food stain, likely a combination of cooking oil, sauce(s) and maybe animal fat. The other smaller ones appeared while I was trying the clean the first big one and my hands weren't completely dry and clean. They might even be soap stains. Do I have to use the Degreaser, the Super Cleaner, the Strong Clearner or would Cleaner 3.8 do the job? I don't want to get more products than is necessary, so it would be ideal if Clearn 3.8 would do the job.

2) To what extent would Protector 5.0 protect it from staining in the future? If it continues to stain so easily, I would be afraid to wear it and it would just sit in the closet forever!

3) "The basic fatliquor condition will return the leather less stiff and it will drape as it is relaxed." By draping, do you mean it will hang flat and smooth as if it has been ironed? I assume it's a bad idea to iron it?

4) I don't think I want/need to re-dye it. The colour looks fine to me.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Catherine

1] I am not sure what kind of stains they are. I know the biggest one appeared after I had Chinese dim sum. So it is a food stain, likely a combination of cooking oil, sauce(s) and maybe animal fat. The other smaller ones appeared while I was trying the clean the first big one and my hands weren't completely dry and clean. They might even be soap stains. Do I have to use the Degreaser, the Super Cleaner, the Strong Clearner or would Cleaner 3.8 do the job? I don't want to get more products than is necessary, so it would be ideal if Clearn 3.8 would do the job.

Products you may need with reference to the Pure-Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide would include:

Degreaser-2.2
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Hydrator-3.3
Fatliquor-5.0
Protector-S+

2] To what extent would Protector 5.0 protect it from staining in the future? If it continues to stain so easily, I would be afraid to wear it and it would just sit in the closet forever!

A very dry, wrinkle, crease and “empty of fat and oil” leathers are very thirsty of any liquid.

A “full of fat and oil” leather has a moisture content of up to 14% and will feel dry even with the touch of hand.

A well fatliquor saturated leather will becomes less absorbent to stains as the fibers are lubricated with fat and oil.

This is the natural way of how leather of this type “pure aniline” is protected without any exterior “film forming coating”.

Fatliquor-5.0 is the emulsion fat and oil used in tannery, now available in a bottle.

Protector-S+ is a non-stick, rub-resistant protector and does nothing against liquid stain.


3] "The basic fatliquor condition will return the leather less stiff and it will drape as it is relaxed." By draping, do you mean it will hang flat and smooth as if it has been ironed? I assume it's a bad idea to iron it?

Drape is to picture ourselves looking at a curtain that is smartly hand down, with its natural flow without the unsightly creases and wrinkles.

Yes and no to iron leather, the leather will shrink if it is “empty” of fat and oil. When leather is “full” of fat and oil derived from fatliquor replenishing, it will response very well to indirect ironing. This process will return the leather to showroom smartness.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

You said Protector-S+ wouldn’t prevent staining.
With this coat, after all the steps moisturizing and applying Protector-S+,
if I want to minimize staining, should I spray it with regular leather protector?

Do you wish to retain the characteristic of a “Pure Aniline” or something else?

The only topcoating or fix use for “Pure Aniline” is Dye Fix-99 (originally used in the tannery and this has nothing to do with waterproofing).
Leather is by nature hydrophilic and has up to 14% of moisture, so technically it is already 14% wet inside.
Any solventbased products will create issue with the dyestuff (bleed) and the fatliquor (dries-up) when the product soaks in.

The coat has been washed with water and soap.
It doesn't need any more cleaning.
Should I skip the cleaning step and go straight to the hydrating step?

Cleaning is an option.

Hi Roger,

I purchased the Rinse 3.0, Degreaser 2.2 and fatliquor 5.0 to clean and recondition this skirt.

Can you please walk me through the cleaning, rinsing and reconditioning processes?

Many thanks.

Cathy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

1] I am not sure what kind of stains they are. I know the biggest one appeared after I had Chinese dim sum. So it is a food stain, likely a combination of cooking oil, sauce(s) and maybe animal fat. The other smaller ones appeared while I was trying the clean the first big one and my hands weren't completely dry and clean. They might even be soap stains. Do I have to use the Degreaser, the Super Cleaner, the Strong Clearner or would Cleaner 3.8 do the job? I don't want to get more products than is necessary, so it would be ideal if Clearn 3.8 would do the job.

Products you may need with reference to the Pure-Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide would include:

Degreaser-2.2
Cleaner-3.8
Rinse-3.0
Hydrator-3.3
Fatliquor-5.0
Protector-S+

2] To what extent would Protector 5.0 protect it from staining in the future? If it continues to stain so easily, I would be afraid to wear it and it would just sit in the closet forever!

A very dry, wrinkle, crease and “empty of fat and oil” leathers are very thirsty of any liquid.

A “full of fat and oil” leather has a moisture content of up to 14% and will feel dry even with the touch of hand.

A well fatliquor saturated leather will becomes less absorbent to stains as the fibers are lubricated with fat and oil.

This is the natural way of how leather of this type “pure aniline” is protected without any exterior “film forming coating”.

Fatliquor-5.0 is the emulsion fat and oil used in tannery, now available in a bottle.

Protector-S+ is a non-stick, rub-resistant protector and does nothing against liquid stain.


3] "The basic fatliquor condition will return the leather less stiff and it will drape as it is relaxed." By draping, do you mean it will hang flat and smooth as if it has been ironed? I assume it's a bad idea to iron it?

Drape is to picture ourselves looking at a curtain that is smartly hand down, with its natural flow without the unsightly creases and wrinkles.

Yes and no to iron leather, the leather will shrink if it is “empty” of fat and oil. When leather is “full” of fat and oil derived from fatliquor replenishing, it will response very well to indirect ironing. This process will return the leather to showroom smartness.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

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>>> I purchased the Rinse 3.0, Degreaser 2.2 and fatliquor 5.0 to clean and recondition this skirt. Can you please walk me through the cleaning, rinsing and reconditioning processes?


Test:
A testing on a hidden area is necessary to see the response of the leather to Degreaser-2.2.

1st – Shake the Degreaser-2.2 till it is completely gels up.
2nd – Transfer to a cotton swab and apply to hidden area, it will darkens it with saturation, however note if color is transfer to the cotton swab.
3rd – If cotton is transfer, use Acidifier-2.0 for rinsing and betters bleeding control other than Rinse-3.0.
4th – Let dry and see if rings appears (to eliminate rings on the actual application the entire item has to be damp through out before drying).

Let us have some pictures of the above test before we recommend actual application.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Roger,

I tested the degreaser. Please see attached picture of the cotton swab after several rubbing. There is some bleeding but not a lot.

I would imagine when I actually try to rub the stain off, it would take several rubbing and soaking. See the darker spot immediately after application of the degreaser. It's not very obvious. I will have to see what happens after it dries.

Please also clarify what you mean by having to dampen the entire article if rings appear? Dampen with what, the degreaser, the acidifier, the hydrator, or water? Which do you mean? I didn't purchase the acidifier. I am hoping I won't have to deal with purchasing and shipping again. Please advise if there is any alternative to dealing with bleeding.

Thanks.

C.

>>> I tested the degreaser. Please see attached picture of the cotton swab after several rubbing. There is some bleeding but not a lot. I would imagine when I actually try to rub the stain off, it would take several rubbing and soaking. See the darker spot immediately after application of the degreaser. It's not very obvious. I will have to see what happens after it dries.

Good to see pictures after it dries.
If the stain is visible from the reverse suede side, turn the skirt inside out and do the stain removing from the suede side instead (this will reduce any physical stress to the surface).
Avoid rubbing, just apply Degreaser-2.2 let it soak through and blot out after dwelling 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries. Thereafter apply Rinse-3.0 and blot out until surface feel squeaky.


>>> Please also clarify what you mean by having to dampen the entire article if rings appear?

Dampen or feather out the wetness to reduce darkening contrast while wetting out the stain during rinse (If the entire skirt is wet out, there should have no rings when dry and if rings appear wet out the entire skirt and let it dry again).


>>> Dampen with what, the degreaser, the acidifier, the hydrator, or water? Which do you mean? I didn't purchase the acidifier. I am hoping I won't have to deal with purchasing and shipping again.

If you only have Rinse-3.0, use it.


>>> Please advise if there is any alternative to dealing with bleeding.

Acidifier-2.0 is the next best alternative when dealing with bleeding.

Hi Roger, just thought I show you the dried test spot. (Oops, can't find the attachment button?!) It is slightly visible.

The stain does show on the reverse suede side so I am going to try cleaning it from the suede side first to see what happens.

Also, how do you feather out the rinse 3.0? Given the small spot, I thought I would just dab a little bit of the rinse agent on the spot after de-greasing.

Cathy

The attached icon is the top 3 from the right.

Yes, preferably clean it from the suede side if the stain have gone through.

Get rid of the stain first, then a wetting out entirely will get rid of any ring marks if any.

I am going to apply the fat liquid as well. Should I let the rinse liquid dry up before applying the fat liquid?

Letting Rinse-3.0 dry up is the better approach allowing us a time for inspection.

Fatliquor replenishing is for the entire skirt to achieve an even appearance and mist hydrating for surface tension inspection prior to fatliquoring will ensure that fatliquoring will be even without any blotchiness.

Hello Roger,

I am done applying the fatliquor on this skirt. I applied it 4 or 5 times, I feels soft now and looks pretty good (see pics).

I know you advised against applying any commercial protectors or conditioners. How about just leather polish? Would it be advisable to apply a layer of clear polish?

Thanks.

Cathy

Is it possible you post pictures for an after stain removal effect in comparison to pictures posted in post #1, picture #1 and #2.


Is the stain all gone?


>>> How about just leather polish?
We have identified the leather as from “goat” or “kid” – this should be aniline-pure finishes and breathability for natural transpiration is greatly appreciated – any polish that retard the characteristic kills the leather – you will only need to have a non-stick, rub-resistant protector with a choice of leather sent or scentless – Protector-S+ or Protector-S, otherwise I feel sorry for the leather. In leather less is more natural and beautiful.


>>> Would it be advisable to apply a layer of clear polish?

It is insane if I say it is OK – leave it as pure-aniline – the highest end of leather – why down grade it?


Tips:
Iron the leather for smartness – use an iron on wool setting and iron it between a plain white printing paper – you will be smiling.

Please show us how smart it is!



Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Attachment 2578Attachment 2577Hi Roger,

Th big picture is the original stain. The small picture is the stain after applying the degreaser, then the rinse agent, then the hydrator and then the fat liquor. The stain is still visible if you know where to look. It is the spot right on top of the finger.

My observation is that the degreaser and rinse agent didn`t do much to remove the stain. By it was the hydrator and the fat liquor that made the stain seem less obvious. It is faded enough that you have to know it to see it.

I applied the fat liquor a few times to make sure that it has got enough. Maybe I overdid it, but it is supple again.

OK, I hear you. I won`t apply anything to it. I don`t have the protector. I guess I will get that next time I order something from you.

Yes, I did iron it.

The sheepskin coat feels much softer after it dried completely, that was after applying the fatliquor 4 times, I think.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

Is it possible you post pictures for an after stain removal effect in comparison to pictures posted in post #1, picture #1 and #2.


Is the stain all gone?


>>> How about just leather polish?
We have identified the leather as from “goat” or “kid” – this should be aniline-pure finishes and breathability for natural transpiration is greatly appreciated – any polish that retard the characteristic kills the leather – you will only need to have a non-stick, rub-resistant protector with a choice of leather sent or scentless – Protector-S+ or Protector-S, otherwise I feel sorry for the leather. In leather less is more natural and beautiful.


>>> Would it be advisable to apply a layer of clear polish?

It is insane if I say it is OK – leave it as pure-aniline – the highest end of leather – why down grade it?


Tips:
Iron the leather for smartness – use an iron on wool setting and iron it between a plain white printing paper – you will be smiling.

Please show us how smart it is!



Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

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>>> The stain is still visible if you know where to look.

Try stretching it a bit and it may just lighten up and blend in.