Vegetable-Tanned (Vachetta / Naked Unfinished) - Fredericia 2213 - Help needed - from Singapore…this beautiful vegetable-tanned Fredericia 2213 sofa from Denmark was stained by grubby hands during freight handling.

Hi, after 3 years of saving, I have finally managed to buy the beautiful Fredericia 2213 from Denmark. However, during shipment the sofa was stained by grubby hands of freight forwarder and now I am devastated. I have made a claim for the insurance but while that is getting sorted, I am bracing for the worst - stuck with stained sofa.

I do not know anything about leather care other than polishing my shoes but willing to try anything to rescue my investment. From what I can tell the stains are combination of sweat and dirt mostly with little bit of wet mark left by my local "leather care expert".

Here are some pics to help clarify. In short HELP~

Below shows the primary offending section (all the major stains are on the front lower section below shows the middle seat). Two wet looking patches near the top and next to cloth section are "cleaning tests" performed by aforementioned expert.

#1

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dericia-01.jpg

#2
Next is left panel (viewed from front). Mainly just dirty sweaty hand marks.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dericia-02.jpg


#3
A close up of middle panel section stains. Shows the "test marks" towards upper right corner.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dericia-03.jpg

#4
Another close up of middle section. Showing dirty palm mark and more stains.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dericia-05.jpg

#5
An extreme close up of the palm mark.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dericia-06.jpg

#6
Another extreme close up (middle section again), showing the dirty and greasy residue.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dericia-07.jpg

#7
A close up of the stain at the lower front section.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dericia-11.jpg

#8
Finally close up of the stain at the left panel.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...dericia-04.jpg

Picture #1: Two wet looking patches near the top and next to cloth section are "cleaning tests" …
It is good to know the products pH value that have been used to do the testing.
Alkaline products having a pH value above 7 will cause a yellowing/browning effect.
A possible solution to rectify this problem is to use a pH 2.0 Acidifier.

Picture #2: Mainly just dirty sweaty hand marks.
Sweat contains traces of urea, and when fermented by the natural bacteria from the atmosphere shift alkaline. Alkaline over exposure will result in yellowing/browning of this pH sensitive leathers. In comparison with the above test marks, we can see that it has less brown, thus a weaker alkaline over exposure; by using the same Acidifier-2.0 treatment will produce a very satisfactorily result; where else the test mark may need repeat pH rectification.

Picture #3: A close up of middle panel section stains. Shows the "test marks" towards upper right corner.
There is also a lighter version of yellowing stain in front, as discuss above; the yellowing to browning stains depend on the amount and degree of alkaline exposure; with a higher pH value, the browner the side effect will be.

Picture #4: Another close up of middle section. Showing dirty palm mark and more stains.
These dark marks may derive from a combination of carbon, soot or newsprint transfer. A recommended system is as follows: Eraser-4 > Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0

Picture #5: An extreme close up of the palm mark.
Dark marks are more physical surface stains while yellow to brown marks are chemical changes that is more damaging to the chemistry integrity of the leather-structure. Dark marks are easily correctable as above #4.

Picture #6: Another extreme close up (middle section again), showing the dirty and greasy residue.
Here is a mixture of gray soiling with very mild alkaline exposure that show a bit of yellowing. You may like to clean it first as picture #4 thereafter follows with #1 Acidifier treatment.

Picture #7: A close up of the stain at the lower front section.
You may want to retake this picture again…color not right.

Picture #8: Finally close up of the stain at the left panel.
Again this picture is diagnosed as mild alkaline exposure that causes the yellowing side-effect and can be easily rectified similarly to treatment as #2.

In conclusion all yellowing and browning stains are to be rectified with a pH 2.0 acidifier and all the black/grayish marks are to be removed with Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 (suffix denotes its pH value). Cleaning products that have a pH value of between 3 and 5 will not cause yellowing or browning stains on this pH sensitive leather.

Tips:
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 always follow after stains are removed to satisfaction.
Vegetable-Tanned / Vachetta leathers are more fatliquor hungry than the other chrome-tanned leathers.
Fatliquor with the fat and oil makes these leathers less absorbent.
Healthy leather has an average 14% of moisture content, and almost all derives from this fatliquor – the lifeblood of leathers.
These leathers breathe naturally (transpiration) and a non-film forming non-stick, rub-resistant protector like Leather Scent-B is recommended.
In humid climate where sweat is common, its best to neutralize it routinely with a pH 3.0 rinse to prevent it from turning yellow; a double precaution is to prevent microbial activities with a routine wipe with a pH 3.9 sanitizer.
Unlike all other leather types, this leather behaves just like our skin, it will darken under sunlight.
The paleness of the skin may indicate the need of fatliquors; in order to have an even appearance it is recommended that the surface is preconditioned (to break surface tension) with Hydrator-3.3.

Here’s the Vachetta Problem Solving Guide-V9

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...etta11-LPG.jpg

The Vachetta Leather Care Kit-V3

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...achettaKit.jpg
Leather Doctor® Vachetta Leather Care Kit-V3

Contents:
Degreaser-2.2 – 60ml
Prep-4.4 – 60ml
Cleaner-3.8 – 250ml
Rinse-3.0 – 250ml
Hydrator-3.3 – 250ml
Fatliquor-5.0 – 250ml
Leather Scent-D – 120ml
Leather (horsehair) Brush-1 – 1pc
3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
Washable Rags – 5pcs

Add-on to the kit can be found in this link:

http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...read.php?t=360


I will walk you through with the “how-to” when you have the products at hand, to achieve the best possible desired result.

You have good taste; I too would like to own such a beautiful leather, it’s leather at the purest, closest to our skin, naked leathers is what these leather types is often referred to – it’s pH sensitive, heat sensitive, sunlight sensitive – I wish you own this set for life, keeping it beautifully looking at all times, worry free and enjoying it. And after the stains are gone don’t forget to impart the unforgettable leather scent – for the scent of leather is more leathery than the leather itself.


Please show us the complete set to appreciate this leather more, thank you!


Roger Koh
[email protected]
Tomorrow’s Leather Care Technology Delivered Today!

Thank you for your advice and help!! I am relieved just to know that someone knows what's going on (cuz I don't).

How do I make the purchase of the care kit (I can pay via PayPal or any other methods you prefer - can you send me an invoice with payment details?) and what other packages would you recommend to help me take care of this sofa?

Again, thank you!!

Show us a picture of the sets; is it a 3, 2 and a 1?



You have to look beyond the stains removal and have a preventive program in place; to keep it consistendently at a high level of appearance at all times; besides the tactile-feel of the leather and the leather scent that charms.



I will introduce you to a perpetual cyclematic maintenance system for this vachetta leather types the next posting.

It's a 3 seater. This is what the sofa looked like before it was shipped.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_QL...model_2213.jpg

Excellent! I will need as much advice as possible. By the way, I have sent through my delivery address detail as well as preference towards air shipment for faster delivery to Singapore. Please send the invoice so that I can pay soon.

Thanks!

Vachetta leather behaves exactly like our skin; the hue comes from the depth of the skin and it shows through. The intensity or chroma depends on the moisture level or percentage of the fatliquor presence.

From picture it would notice the color intensity of the back cushion ranges from the left to the paler right. It may not be true when view with our naked eyes.

The preference of hue for this leather type is to take the deepest color intensity if possible; reason being…

A] A deeper intensity derived from fatliquor is the natural appearance it should be, up to the tannery standard of averaging 14% moisture content, should give its original color. Remember that fatliquor diminishes as VOC (volatile organic compound) thus the color appears paler in color. Sunlight will sun-tanned it darker, however it may be dry and darker versus fullness in fatliquor in deeper color intensity with softness, suppleness and strength.

B] When this leather is paler in color it becomes more absorbent to liquid than if it is well fatliquored (fat and oil does repel water in within the leather structure).

C] Although this leather is newly delivered, but from where? Is it freshly fatliquored or stale from tannery storage waiting to be delivered to the furniture maker? And what was the time frame for these bundles of leathers to be made into this beautiful sofa and delivered to the home owner?

D] It would be wiser to have this vachetta leather having a deeper tone from fatliquor than any other liquid stains from body contact.

This message is to caution the need to even out the entire sofa each time a product is used that has an effect to the shift of color tone within the acceptable color intensity or chroma range.

Example:
The dark stain removal with (Eraser-4 > Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 follows with the yellow stain removal with Acidifier-2.0) when concentrated on the affected areas successfully removed; has to be extended to the entire panel with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 to even out the appearance within this panel. And if the freshly fatliquored panels shows a deeper tone when dry, then it is recommended that the entire sofa takes up the same color tone with the similar hydrating and fatliquoring process to achieve a holistic appearance.

When this initial beyond the stain removal concept of a total appearance is acceptable, then it will make sense to extend this holistic leather-safe system further to what I mention earlier - "a perpetual cyclematic maintenance system for this vachetta leather type" yet to be mentioned.


This vachetta is the most sensitive leather of all types - so think thrice and act once!


Roger Koh
[email protected]

This short video from Discovery Channel explains more about "fatliquor" and vechetta leather is especially thirsty to this lifeblood of leathers.

Vechetta leather is without the dyeing process; the color comes from the vegetable tannin agent and fatliquor enhances the color through.

Vachetta leathers, just like the color of our facial skin tone; varies and depends on our blood circulation especially with those that have the same pale color tone skin like these vachetta leathers.

http://videos.howstuffworks.com/disc...quor-video.htm

Further questions on fatliquor are welcome.

Keep an eye on the color-tone of this freshly fatliquored leather; and compared with the color-tone of the delivered sofa; and hope you understand how important is fatliquor is to this vachetta leathers.

Pay attention to the stress on pH value in every steps of the process, so you know the equally important emphasis is also on the pH value of cleaning products used to maintain its chemistry integrity of the leather.

Video explaining the making of Vegetable-Tanned Leathers - Hermann Oak Leather Tannery Tour http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyCaonpEd70

“Danish leather sofa with patina. Designed by Borge Mogensen made by Fredericia Furniture. Model 2213. One of the best Danish leather sofas available and a lot cheaper than this model usually presents itself due to patina”.

We do not know how cheap is cheap mentioned above, but what do you think of the patina?


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...thpatina-1.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...thpatina-2.jpg

Roger Koh
[email protected]

ouch! i love the general color pallette but this looks dirty. i would like to keep my much more even toned :)

just read the shipping notification, cant wait for the items to arrive. thank you

I would agree that it should look evenly pleasant, but take a look at this piece still auction off @ DKK18,000 equivalents to US$3,338.86.

Description:
Børge Mogensen, 1914 - 1972. Sofa, model 2213. Oak legs. Cushions, sides and back upholstered with cognac-coloured patinated leather. Designed in 1962. Produced by Fredericia Stolefabrik A/S. L. 222 cm. Traces from washing on sides and back, a bit of crackling and wear to piping as well as corners at back.

Prior bids Show 5 15 50 All bids

Customer no. Date Time (CET) Bid
4362 01/10/2009 20:03:06 DKK 18,000
45825 01/10/2009 20:00:25 DKK 17,500
4362 01/10/2009 20:01:38 DKK 17,500
45825 01/10/2009 20:00:25 DKK 17,000
4362 01/10/2009 19:59:16 DKK 16,500

Price Indicator 1 Model 2213 by Børge Mogensen typically sells between

USD 4,159 - USD 12,684

* This is an indicative market value, based on objects sold on auctions and by dealers in the last 12 months. The price for an individual object may deviate from this indicative price, for many reasons. Factors such as rareness, condition and provenance all affect the price. Furthermore, objects sold by Dealers are typically refinished to good or perfect condition while objects sold on auctions may often need to be refinished or reupholstered.

Average Price Trend
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...rkoh/chart.png
“This graph shows the illustrative development of the average sales price of this object. The average sales price per year is based on a combination of object sold from auctions and from dealers.” By Lauritz.com


#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...oh/1603177.jpg
#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n.../1603177-2.jpg
#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n.../1603177-3.jpg
#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n.../1603177-4.jpg

Roger,
I have received the products today and I am psyching myself for cleaning during the weekend.

I am now ready for the step-by-step how-to whenever you are ready.

Thanks!

You may have notice the additional of 2 other products namely the d’Tarnish-1.3 and the d’Yellow-6.7, hopefully you may never need to use them but as a standby.

It is good to know what products have been used on the testing that resulted in the stains.

This shall be the general structure of rectifying these stains in the following sequences:

1] All black marks are to be removed first – starting from the weakest to the strongest so as not to over-clean unnecessary, leaving residue to be cleaned and rinsed off.

2] Yellow marks to be rectified using acidifying, reducing agent or fluorescent whitening agent.

3] Testing stain marks is best to deal accordingly if we know what products have been used in terms of their pH value and/or conditioning ingredients.

4] Until the stains are satisfactorily removed before we go into hydrating, fatliquoring and protecting the entire sofa as the first step to preventive maintenance.

We shall proceed with Picture #5 - An extreme close up of the palm mark.

Step 1
Try softly erasing part of the dark palm mark with the sponge side of Eraser-4 and see if the dark mark is removed, if it does, then erase all dark marks accordingly without damaging to the skin. It is best to gently removed them safely prior to proceedinf with step 2 (otherwise the stain may spread when wet out).

Step 2
Clean the horsehair brush with Cleaner-3.8 and test out with a white towel to ensure that the brush is clean. Spray Cleaner-3.8 onto the brush and transfer agitation onto the palm mark and extract with white towel until towel shows clean and dry; then proceed to step 3.

Step 3
Spray Rinse-3.0 over the cleaned area and towel extract until towel shows clean and dry.

Leave it to dry naturally; when dry show us some pictures – don’t be disappointed as we may not get the best result as we are testing it out at the lowest cleaning strength. We would also like to see how this pH sensitive leather response to the pH 3.8 cleaner and the pH 3.0 rinse.

Roger Koh
[email protected]