How to use Solvent dyes for furniture

Hello,
I recently tried using Angelus solvent dyes to redye a sofa. These are normally used for crafts on veg tan leather and applied using a wool swab. Swabbing large pieces would create streaks so I used a spray gun and they went on well. It seems to work for aniline leather since the absorption of the dyes varies across the hide. I wanted to use these because they actually penetrate the leather as a real dye would. My concern is on bleeding or crocking on clothes. The color I used was a dark burgundy. I used the Angelus acrylic top coat finish and it worked pretty good but there was some color transfer to their clothes. I would like to know if you have preps and topcoats that would work with these type dyes. Do you have any recommendations for the preparation, application, and top coating leather that has been dyed using these solvent dyes? I have attached a picture of the before and after. This was a semi aniline that a dog had run across and removed much of the top coat and color. I have also done a wax pull up but probably should have used a deglazed to remove the wax top coat first.

Thank you for your help.
Sincerely,
Frank

Attachment 7929

>>> I would like to know if you have preps and topcoats that would work with these type dyes. Do you have any recommendations for the preparation, application, and top coating leather that has been dyed using these solvent dyes?

I suggest you stick to a matched system (that is use entirely from the same source). A solvent dyestuff has to match up with solvent topcoat to reduce the problem you have. Anyway the solvent system is already obsolete in some of the states like California and New York. We still have solvent topcoat, if you are interested for the solvent dyestuff. All latest dyeing systems are water based. Aniline-21 water-based is for staining the leather crust and Aniline-76 water based is for coating over the existing finishes, not necessary to completely stripped off existing finishes.

>>> My concern is on bleeding or crocking on clothes.

A “staining” dyestuff (like Aniline-21) is more prone to bleeding or crocking then a “coating” dyestuff (Aniline-76).


Here is an example of a “coating” dyestuff refinishing system
Attachment 7930
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a7-...finishing-kit/


>>> I have also done a wax pull up but probably should have used a deglazed to remove the wax top coat first.

To reduce dye bleeding and denaturing the leather use a pH controlled product like Stripper-2.3, which has a pH value of 2.3.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Hey Roger,
Thank you for your reply. I do have solvent top coats from Leathermaster that are mixed with a crosslinker/hardener. I like the idea ofbsolvent dyes vs aniline dyes because they have very nice, dark colors and the shade can be achieved with less time and fewer applications. I am aware they now have water based dyes but have not tried them.
Regards,
Frank

The trend has been moving from “solvent” dyestuff to “water-based” dyestuff.

In a water-based dyestuff it has two categories the “staining” dyestuff and the “coating” dyestuff.

Most of the aniline refinishing restoration work Chet used are now “coating’ dyestuff with Aniline-76 more then Aniline-21.

Aniline-76 “transparent “ dyestuff can be coat over “opaque” pigment like Micro-54 to retain the lighter range of color bring the restoration back closed to aniline then pigmented.

Retaining aniline finishing back to aniline maintains it value then to downgrade into pigmented.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]