AA Library

Roger, I will need some dye to restore all this leather in a library. I sent you the swatches today. They only have 8 weeks to get this done so we will need to expedite the order. We will be using Micro-54 for all of them.

Attachment 9711
12-26 A This is the worse on the bottom cushion is very worn. I was going to remove the bottom leather cover and strengthen it from behind with Impregnator before cleaning and restoring unless you have a better idea.

Attachment 9712
12-26 B The other sofa

Attachment 9713
12-26 C Cushion

Attachment 9714
12- D Matching Chairs

There are 2 of theses sofas and 9 full size chairs in this orange/ brown color so I will need 1 gallon. This furniture is all manufactured by "Montis" maybe we can find the exact color swatch?

Attachment 9715
12-26 E There are 8 Medium size chairs in dark brown, minor color restoration. These are made by knoll and I will need 1 quart of this color.

Attachment 9716
12-26 F There are 3 chairs and 1 sofa in this group. They are made by Knoll and I will need 1 quart of this brown.

Attachment 9717
12-26 G There are 2 of these Eggplant colored chairs made by"Montis" they are only faded so I will only need 1 quart of dye.

Thanks, will look out for all the swatches . . .

>>> 12-26 A This is the worse on the bottom cushion is very worn. I was going to remove the bottom leather cover and strengthen it from behind with Impregnator before cleaning and restoring unless you have a better idea.

1- From the suede side - processing as follows - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Impregnator-26.

2- From the smooth side - Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Stain-Removal-System > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Impregnator-26 > Dry-Preparation > Adhesor-73 > Micro-54 > MicroTop-54 > Protector-B/B+.

To expedite your work, I recommend you send in your order for the necessary cleaning and auxiliary refinishing products for immediate shipment and meanwhile waiting for the color matching Micro-54 (opaque coloring) and Aniline-76 (dye stuff) products to arrive.

Attachment 9718
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Roger,
Have you received my samples? I mailed them to you December, 26th

Yes, got it yesterday!

Hi there roger this is pat with chets cleaning. i have done all the necessary cleaning and hydrating to the leather and im beginning the adhesion process. the 3 knoll chairs and sofa (12-26 F) seem sticky or "tacky" prior to me adhesoring them. i dont imagine it will cause any issues while dying i was just curious to know if you have any knowledge as to why it happened or if i should look out for anything moving forward. so far i applied 7.7 let dwell over night clean and rinse and appied 7.7 again to a couple very dirty areas then another clean rinse hydrate and fatliquor

Tips:

Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorb body contact oil, grease and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifest as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In additional to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average iso-electric point (pI) of leather revitalize the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive attraction towards the negative leather constituents that includes the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reduce dye bleeding in a leather-safe waterbased system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system.

Attachment 9723
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

1- The proper procedure for leather refinishing is Degreasing.
With Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system.

2- Any Tackiness or Stickiness is pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 until stickiness or tackiness is reduced or revert to a healthy squeaky feel.

3- Leather Rejuvenating system with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 follows while the pH rinsing is still damp.

4- Leave to slow dry.

5- Dry Preparation

6- Any Repairs as necessary

7- Adhesion-73 application to promote adhesion.

8- Color coating with Micro-54 plus Thickener-48 to control flow.

9- MicroTop-54

10- Protector-B/B+


Let me know if you need on time coaching by “skype”.

See instruction fro this Kit-Sa7.cl . . .

Attachment 9725

Leather Doctor® Kit Sa7.cl, micro-pigmented leather color refinishing kit is design for a holistic restoration approach to the finishes and also rejuvenating the leather for suppleness. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages into the leather structure. Some expose areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling that includes conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease and sweat or alkaline overexposure from cleaners. A comprehensive repair for a long-term lasting solution will require a holistic approach to deal with both the exposed structure and surface finishes. The practical and functional softness and strength of the leather depends on the health of the structure with average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking. The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 micron) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking. A leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper-2.3 and rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. The suffix numbers of these four products denotes it pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination. The leather integrity is revitalizes once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its negative leather constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is initiated. Leather rejuvenating system for softness and strength is accomplishes with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Surface uneven absorption is seals with Adhesor-73 to reduce the need for color over-coating thus increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking. Protector-B imparts a non-stick rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reduces noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated it reduces compression when comes to heavy body contact thus reduces compressed creases and wrinkles.
Instruction:

Stripping Existing Deteriorating Finishes:
1. Cover and tape off frames, trims and protect flooring.
2. Mist sprays Stripper-2.3, Eraser-4 scrub with help of 2000-grit sandpaper feathering out seamlessly and towel extract for an even appearance.

Degreasing:
1. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use with a repeat shake and rest until it gels.
2. Transfer to Eraser-4; agitate to saturate the stain, feather out to the entire section.
3. Towel extracts suspended soiling after 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries until it shows clean.
4. Spray Acidifier-2.0, towel extract until it shows clean to a healthy squeak.

Hydrating:
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 saturating the stain area and feather out for an even appearance.
2. Covering with tissue paper without airspace to trap wick up stains instead of remaining on the leather surface as it dries.
3. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and use Eraser-4 to erase surface residue prior to fat and oil replenishing.

4. Another function of hydrating is to activate dormant dyestuff to resurface.


Fat and Oil Replenishing:
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to precondition the leather prior to fat and oil replenishing.
2. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
3. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
4. Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
5. Allow natural drying for extra softness.

Dry Prep:
1. Erase wick-up residue with Eraser-4 prior to repairs.

2. Find sanding to removed deteriorating finishes and surface dry rotting.

Adhesion Promotion Coating:
1. Fine scrub with 3M white pad to remove some deteriorating finishes and lint free towel extract until towel shows clean. Further coating is for smooth surface abrasion and as an adhesion coating for the Micro-54 finishing system.

Color Coating:
1. Apply color matching Micro-54 + 10% Thickener-48 for flow control and airbrushing for professional result.
2. Fine dry atomize dispersion with more air is achieve with 80 to 100psi of air pressure.
3. Light spray is preferred and let dry in between coats to build up colorcoat.

Topcoating:
1. Shake the product well and apply by airbrushing for professional result.
2. Use lint free paper towel to even out drips and streaks.
3. Speed dries between coats with help of hair dryer.
4. 2000-grit sanding may applies to improve touch and appearance.

Rub-Resistant Protection:
1. Mist sprays Protector-B redistribute with a foam brush / paper towel and ready for use when dry.

Roger, The brown set pic 12-26F are extremely sticky, We have tried to Degrease 2.2 and Acidifier. Repeating Acidifier multiple times and letting it dwell but it is still very sticky. Any other suggestions?

Hi roger, the 12-26 f chairs as mentioned before seem to only be tacky on the main contact pannels for example the side and front pannels are dull and not sticky or tacky and the top and bottom pannels are shiny and feel very tacky. we tried to strip one of the cushions and it brought the sheen down and some of the tackiness then ultimately using adhesor after seems to bring it to an acceptable feel. just wondering if you had any other suggestions or if you think we are on the right track.

Hi roger this is pat, i also have a question about the sofa in pic 12-26 A. The center pannels are very worn and a lot of the grain is rubbed out or missing i have impregnated the underside so far i was wondering if you had any suggestions of what i should attempt on the top side we were thinking impregnator with some color added.

1-1
Attachment 9726


1-2
Attachment 9727


1-3
Attachment 9728

I recommend that the deteriorated finishes be removed by sanding otherwise it becomes a poor foundation for the new finishes.

1- Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 (This system also helps ionic charging the leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to have an effective hydrogen-bonding with the ionic negative (-ve) fat liquor (fat and oil) from Fatliquor-5.0.

2- A good Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 will help supple up the dry-rotting leather.

3- Impregnator-26 is used ALONE direct into the leather structure.

4- Bond-3D alone for the first layer and the second layer with added coloring.

5- Adhesor-73 alone first layer and second layer with added coloring.

6- Micro-54

7-MicroTop-54

8- Protector-B/B+

Hey roger just finished this order, figured id update you on the progress. the 2.2 and acidifier didnt do too much but we ended up stripping off some sort of film so after that we got it back up to a non tacky feel prior to dye. the orange seat we had to impregnate and bond came out well too heres some pics.
Attachment 9750

Attachment 9749

Good you give us feedback.

What do you think can be improve further:

* The individual product ?
* The system of procedure or sequence ?

Tips on tacky issue:

Tacky issues may be from both the deteriorating finishes and the leather structure itself.

For future similar project, I would recommend stripping off existing finishes with LeatherStripper-2.3, then degrease with LeatherDegreaser-2.2 and rinse with LeatherAcidifier-2.0 to pH balance controlling and reverting the tackiness, prior to repair and refinishing - what do you think?

Roger,
The furniture that became sticky were the Knoll pieces in pics, 12-26E and 12-26F, After cleaning with Prep7.7 and cleaning with Clean 3.8 and rinse the seats and arms became sticky. They were not worn and really didn't need any dye repair. Unsure why they became sticky?

>>> Unsure why they became sticky?

If you have a leather pH meter you can read the surface pH value.
It will show a pH value above 7, and that is the reason it is sticky.

You may ask why?
You should then check what products have been using all these while.
Also ask if they pH balance it?

When a leather surface reads a pH value of 3 to 5, it will have a squeaky feel when wet.

Prep-7.7 has a pH value of 7.7 and is not leather safe.
Prep-4.4 has a pH value of 4.4 and it is leather-safe and would result less tacky if the leather already is alkaline overexposed.

Leather ProCleaner-1.5 should than be used because it has a pH value of 1.5

You see all the suffix numbers of Leather Doctor product - it is the product pH value.

And in this leather care market, no one talks about the pH value of their product.

The Leather Doctor system is based on science and logic - makes sense?

We have used Acidifier to try and remove the stickiness but it didn't change it. We have let Adidfier dwell, repeat several times but no change?

First.

Do you agree that high pH value will turn leather sticky.

Second.

Do you agree that low pH value will revert the sticky leather into a squeaky leather.

Third.

If you are not sure, do a testing and find out why it works and why it did not work.

Tips:
Do you need technical training?
I am available to show you how it works in your location.
It is a 5 days training course on any hands-on subject.