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Hi Richard,
In an attempt to get rid of a stubborn musty smell on a vintage chanel classic clap, I put baking soda on the front surface. Smell is gone but unfortunately so is the gloss and puffiness of the quilts. Is there anything I can do to bring back the shine and suppleness of the leather?
Thanks very much,
Casey
Shine of the leather is refinished with AnilineTop-76G and suppleness of the leather is reconditioned with neutralizing the baking-soda with Acidifier-2.0 to a squeaky feel, then hydradrate with Hydrator-3.3 until it is soft enough to stress back the puffiness to satisfaction, follows by replenishing the original fatliquor back to its about 14% moisture content of fat and oil. Leave to slow drying and massage until it is complete dry to restore the puffiness of the quilts. When puffiness is restored, it is time to shine it up.
Note:
Musty smell is restored with a pH value 3.6 which will not shrink leathers and damage the topcoat. LeatherMoldOdorInhibitor-3.6
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...hibitor-3-6-1/
This is the recommended kit for both restoring the gloss and puffiness of the quilts.
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a6-tc/
Attachment 10754
Attachment 10753
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]
WhatsApp: +639467037976
Thanks so much for your reply! I have been going through some of your older threads and am hoping to confirm the steps for applying the products.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Steps for Restoring Lambskin Denatured by Baking Soda
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1. Apply the Degreaser 2.2 to clean the surface. The leather is at some risk of splotchy discoloration. with this as the degreaser will bring grease to the surface. If this does occur, I should use the leather eraser gently on the area to fade the splotchy areas. I would love some clarification if the degreasing step is actually necessary for my project? Will the acidifier/hydrator/fatliquor penetrate without it?
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2. Apply the Acidifier 2.0 to balance the leather due to the alkaline denaturing damage from the baking soda. Leave the Acidifier for 72 hours and then check that the leather feels squeaky.
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3. Apply the LeatherMoldOdorInhibitor 3.6 to the leather and let dry (how do you know when it is dry completely?). This will prevent mold from developing with the Clingwrap/Hydrator in Step 4.
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4. Apply the Hydrator 3.0 to precondition and "open" the leather, preparing it for the fatliquor. Apply the hydrator to saturate the leather and relax it. Should this be covered in clingwrap and let to sit for 72 hours? If so, what are the pros/cons of using the clingwrap method?
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5. Apply the Fatliquor 5.0 to plump the leather. While the leather is still damp, apply the fatliquor layers continuously once it dries until it stops absorbing and begins to pool onto the surface.
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6. Reapply Hydrator 3.0 to remove residual Fatliquor and prepare the surface for topcoat bonding. Do not cover in clingwrap this time and let dry completely. Do I need to buff the hydrator in with the residual fatliquor? How will I know when the fatliquor is removed?
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7. Apply Aniline Topcoat 76G to add gloss coating to surface. [I]Any tips to ensure that the topcoat is put on evenly and correctly the first time? Would using the less concentrated topcoat (21G) reduce the risk of streaking?
And lastly, a couple more questions please:
- Will the 120 ml (vs 250 ml) of topcoat be sufficient for a small flap bag? The damage is only on the front side.
- Do I need to use the Clean 3.8 and Rinse 3.0 before the above steps?
- Would you recommend testing on a less conspicuous quilt before applying to the whole bag?
Thank you again!!
>>> 1. Apply the Degreaser 2.2 to clean the surface. The leather is at some risk of splotchy discoloration.
Any risk of splotchy discoloration is prevented by Hydrator-3.3 (let it soak entirely into the thickness of the leather and absorb/wipe off any foreign residue that resurfaces until the towel shows clean. Then soak it again for Hydrator-3.3 to work on the excess aniline dyestuff within the leather structure to resurface.
>>> with this as the degreaser will bring grease to the surface. If this does occur, I should use the leather eraser gently on the area to fade the splotchy areas.
Use an absorbent towel to extract the released grease. The leather eraser can use during wet and dry cleaning too.
>>> I would love some clarification if the degreasing step is actually necessary for my project?
Since you want to bring back the shine and AnilineTop-76G is necessary, the surface has to be free of grease for an even application, thus this project start with degreasing.
>>> Will the acidifier/hydrator/fatliquor penetrate without it?
Without the Degreaser-2.2 the leather as it is, is still absorbent
->>> 2. Apply the Acidifier 2.0 to balance the leather due to the alkaline denaturing damage from the baking soda. Leave the Acidifier for 72 hours and then check that the leather feels squeaky.
The Acidifier-2.0 acts both as a rinse for the Degreaser-2.2 and pH balancing the alkaline overexposure from a tacky or slimy feel of hand to a squeaky healthy feel. The rinse action takes the product to soak into the leather structure and rinse out by wiping with lint-free towel. Any color transfer will indicate the need to continue or repeat application and wiping/absorbing action until the towel shows clean. Any foreign contamination can only be removed from within the leather structure to the surface by towel absorption/wiping and it will take repeats with a final last soaking hoping all contamination resurfaces.
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>>> 3. Apply the LeatherMoldOdorInhibitor 3.6 to the leather and let dry (how do you know when it is dry completely?). This will prevent mold from developing with the Clingwrap/Hydrator in Step 4.
If you have a leather moisture meter or equivalent, you can read the percentage of moisture content (water, oil, and fat) and leather normal dry is about 14%. Without a moisture meter reading, you can compare it with the towel you used to squeeze and let dry time duration as a guide.
Avoid the use of clingwrap if you are not experienced enough, it has its set back too (cling marks), instead but it into a container without contact with the leather surface.
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>>> 4. Apply the Hydrator 3.0 to precondition and "open" the leather, preparing it for the fatliquor. Apply the hydrator to saturate the leather and relax it. Should this be covered in clingwrap and let to sit for 72 hours? If so, what are the pros/cons of using the clingwrap method?
An alternative to control evaporation is putting the saturated bag into a container with as little contact to the leather surface. Wrapping will create other surface problems when the leather is not fully saturated and removing it may cause unnecessary peeling marks. When a situation calls for a long dwell with Hydrator-3.3 then 72 hours is one dwell for an inspection, if continuing is necessary. A very wet saturation is necessary for long 72-hour dwell, with between inspection for topping up.
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>>> 5. Apply the Fatliquor 5.0 to plump the leather. While the leather is still damp, apply the fatliquor layers continuously once it dries until it stops absorbing and begins to pool onto the surface.
The health and suppleness of the leather depend on the percentage of fat and oil it retains (hydrogen-bond) with the protein leather fiber, originally at 14% from the tannery.
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6. Reapply Hydrator 3.0 to remove residual Fatliquor and prepare the surface for topcoat bonding. Do not cover in clingwrap this time and let dry completely. Do I need to buff the hydrator in with the residual fatliquor? How will I know when the fatliquor is removed?
Any residue remaining on the leather surface will turn milky once Hydrator-3.3 comes into contact. Apply and absorb until when Hydrator-3.3 stays on the surface and remains clear.
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>>> 7. Apply Aniline Topcoat 76G to add gloss coating to surface. [I]Any tips to ensure that the topcoat is put on evenly and correctly the first time? Would using the less concentrated topcoat (21G) reduce the risk of streaking?
AnilineTop-76G can be diluted 1:1 for the first coating and for the last coating to prevent streaks. This product is self leveling I used facial brush and it does the job as good as a show-room piece (I was the service provider for Chanel Boutique in Vancouver and they have compared my work with their showroom pieces with satisfaction.
[B]>>> And lastly, a couple more questions please:
- Will the 120 ml (vs 250 ml) of topcoat be sufficient for a small flap bag? The damage is only on the front side.
The 120ml should be able to complete a flap bag, however the entire bag is recommended to shine at the same time.
>>> - Do I need to use the Clean 3.8 and Rinse 3.0 before the above steps?
Checking surface tension is one additional step prior to AnilineTop-76G application. Surfactant-3.6/Hydrator-3.3 is wiped over the surface and observed from all angles if there is even absorption of the leather or blotchiness. Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 is a milder version of clean and rinse and check for surface tension.
>>>- Would you recommend testing on a less conspicuous quilt before applying to the whole bag?
Yes, the bottom of the bag is a good place for testing.
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected],
email: [email protected]
WhatsApp: +639467037976