Old pelt blanket restoration

Roger,

As directed here are several pictures of the blanket in question.
Hello, I'm a leatherworker in the US, and have an interesting restoration project on my table.

A client has submitted a queen sized hair on hide blanket that has ripped seams in several places. There are several sections that are creased, some worn thin, a couple of small tears (separate from the ripped seams) and much of it feels dry. However, the leather has NOT perished, as I have tested that, and it still retains strength, and integrity. But, I don't think re-stitching, and handing it back to the client as is would be viable. I think that it would simply tear in new places, and the work would be undone.

I did try oiling/restoring a few small patches prior to my discovery of your site, and products. But, stopped as soon as I found some of your documentation.

I'm reaching out today to see what kit you would recommend for the restoration of this article. And should I be concerned with the sections that I have tried oiling already, or if you have any recommendations for those sections, or would your cleaners, and cleaning protocols suffice?

Any insight, help, tips, and tricks would be appreciated. I do plan on ordering a kit, I suspect it would be one of the larger kits, but I am open to suggestions.

Attached are pictures below showing the lions share of the damage.

Attachment 10865Attachment 10866Attachment 10867Attachment 10868Attachment 10869

>>> A client has submitted a queen-sized hair-on-hide blanket that has ripped seams in several places.

Pictures show that rips are along the stitching lines, which is common when the hides are dried off their fatliquor (fat and oil), the needle holes become elongated and tear strength weakens resulting in a rip.


How to Repair a Ripped Hair-on-Hide Blanket?

Prior to a bonding repair with Leather Bond-3 and Leather Patch-4S which becomes part of the leather, the entire hide needs to be rejuvenated with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 system. Stitching will create more needle hole weakness subject to rip and tear, just for holding together for a stronger bonding repair.


>>> There are several sections that are creased,

Unnatural creases are the result of the hide drying of its fatliquor (fat and oil), thus losing its suppleness. These crushed lines slowly lose their tear strength and developed as a rip when pulled.


How to Remove Unnatural Creases on a Hair-on-Hide Blanket?

Unnatural leather creases are first relaxed with Hydrator-3.3 and then replenished with Fatliquor-5.0. Physical agitation is necessary to work out the creases, and when dry ironing with wool setting over white absorbent paper will ease out the creases.


>>> some worn thin,

Overstretching and abrasive wear is the cause of looseness and thining to the hide.


How to Restore Overstretching and Thining to the Hide?

Overstretching and thining are shrunk back with Hydrator-3.3 and strengthened with Fatliquor-5.0. Further, strengthening is performed with Impregnator-26 to control weakness.


>>> A couple of small tears (separate from the ripped seams)

Tears are the result of a combination of creases, overstretching, and thining or looseness of the hide.


>>> and much of it feels dry.

When a hide feels dry, it's the beginning of losing its useful strength and in severe cases may lead to dry rotting.


How to Recondition a Hide from Feeling Dry?

Feeling dry is the diminishing of its original fatliquor (fat and oil) that is replenished with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 system.


>>> However, the leather has NOT perished, as I have tested that, and it still retains strength and integrity.

Fatliquor is the Lifeblood of Leather! As the fat and oil percentage is reduced from evaporation it will need to be replenished accordingly to the original of about 14%.


How to Regain the Strength and Integrity of Dried Leather?

The strength and integrity of dried leather are regained once the leather is replenished with ionic-charged fat and oil.


>>> But, I don't think re-stitching, and handing it back to the client as is would be viable. I think that it would simply tear in new places, and the work would be undone.

Re-stitching will create more perforated needle holes, that again will tear when the overall leather is not re-strengthen with fatliquor.


>>> I did try oiling/restoring a few small patches prior to my discovery of your site, and products. But, stopped as soon as I found some of your documentation.

Almost all oiling conditioners are mere stuffing oil which was not used originally to tan the leather for softness and strength. These conditioners also darken the leather and caused blockage to all the breathing pores from the natural transpiration for comfort.


>>> And should I be concerned with the sections that I have tried oiling already, or if you have any recommendations for those sections, or would your cleaners, and cleaning protocols suffice?

Depending on the oil used, that may need to be degreased, and pH balanced to charge the amphoteric protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) with a low pH product system like Acidifier-2.0 and Degreaser-2.2 (Note the suffix number represent the pH value of products used). This degreasing and pH correction preconditions the leather to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0 for leather softness, strength, and integrity.


>>> I'm reaching out today to see what kit you would recommend for the restoration of this article.

The basic kit is either Kit H6 or with an extra Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 with Kit H8. And mentioned products as an individual add-on.

Attachment 10871
Hair-on-Hide Zebra & Cow Rug Cleaner, Conditioner & Repair Kit H8
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/hair-o...repair-kit-h8/

Attachment 10870
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected],
email: [email protected]

Thank you Roger. This is the information/insight I was hoping for. I'll be placing my order shortly.

Sounds like the H8 kit will have the necessary ingredients, in the volumes necessary to effect repair/restoration of the blanket.






[QUOTE=Roger Koh;39585]>>> A client has submitted a queen-sized hair-on-hide blanket that has ripped seams in several places.



The basic kit is either Kit H6 or with an extra Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 with Kit H8. And mentioned products as an individual add-on.

Attachment 10871
Hair-on-Hide Zebra & Cow Rug Cleaner, Conditioner & Repair Kit H8
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/hair-o...repair-kit-h8/

Roger,

Just to confirm it is your recommendation/advice to utilize the H8 kit plus the degreaser, and acidifier to deal with the 2 sections I tried the oil on

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> A client has submitted a queen-sized hair-on-hide blanket that has ripped seams in several places.

Pictures show that rips are along the stitching lines, which is common when the hides are dried off their fatliquor (fat and oil), the needle holes become elongated and tear strength weakens resulting in a rip.


How to Repair a Ripped Hair-on-Hide Blanket?

Prior to a bonding repair with Leather Bond-3 and Leather Patch-4S which becomes part of the leather, the entire hide needs to be rejuvenated with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 system. Stitching will create more needle hole weakness subject to rip and tear, just for holding together for a stronger bonding repair.


>>> There are several sections that are creased,

Unnatural creases are the result of the hide drying of its fatliquor (fat and oil), thus losing its suppleness. These crushed lines slowly lose their tear strength and developed as a rip when pulled.


How to Remove Unnatural Creases on a Hair-on-Hide Blanket?

Unnatural leather creases are first relaxed with Hydrator-3.3 and then replenished with Fatliquor-5.0. Physical agitation is necessary to work out the creases, and when dry ironing with wool setting over white absorbent paper will ease out the creases.


>>> some worn thin,

Overstretching and abrasive wear is the cause of looseness and thining to the hide.


How to Restore Overstretching and Thining to the Hide?

Overstretching and thining are shrunk back with Hydrator-3.3 and strengthened with Fatliquor-5.0. Further, strengthening is performed with Impregnator-26 to control weakness.


>>> A couple of small tears (separate from the ripped seams)

Tears are the result of a combination of creases, overstretching, and thining or looseness of the hide.


>>> and much of it feels dry.

When a hide feels dry, it's the beginning of losing its useful strength and in severe cases may lead to dry rotting.


How to Recondition a Hide from Feeling Dry?

Feeling dry is the diminishing of its original fatliquor (fat and oil) that is replenished with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 system.


>>> However, the leather has NOT perished, as I have tested that, and it still retains strength and integrity.

Fatliquor is the Lifeblood of Leather! As the fat and oil percentage is reduced from evaporation it will need to be replenished accordingly to the original of about 14%.


How to Regain the Strength and Integrity of Dried Leather?

The strength and integrity of dried leather are regained once the leather is replenished with ionic-charged fat and oil.


>>> But, I don't think re-stitching, and handing it back to the client as is would be viable. I think that it would simply tear in new places, and the work would be undone.

Re-stitching will create more perforated needle holes, that again will tear when the overall leather is not re-strengthen with fatliquor.


>>> I did try oiling/restoring a few small patches prior to my discovery of your site, and products. But, stopped as soon as I found some of your documentation.

Almost all oiling conditioners are mere stuffing oil which was not used originally to tan the leather for softness and strength. These conditioners also darken the leather and caused blockage to all the breathing pores from the natural transpiration for comfort.


>>> And should I be concerned with the sections that I have tried oiling already, or if you have any recommendations for those sections, or would your cleaners, and cleaning protocols suffice?

Depending on the oil used, that may need to be degreased, and pH balanced to charge the amphoteric protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) with a low pH product system like Acidifier-2.0 and Degreaser-2.2 (Note the suffix number represent the pH value of products used). This degreasing and pH correction preconditions the leather to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0 for leather softness, strength, and integrity.


>>> I'm reaching out today to see what kit you would recommend for the restoration of this article.

The basic kit is either Kit H6 or with an extra Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 with Kit H8. And mentioned products as an individual add-on.

Attachment 10871
Hair-on-Hide Zebra & Cow Rug Cleaner, Conditioner & Repair Kit H8
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/hair-o...repair-kit-h8/

Attachment 10870
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected],
email: [email protected]

---

>>> Just to confirm it is your recommendation/advice to utilize the H8 kit plus the degreaser, and acidifier to deal with the 2 sections I tried the oil on.


There are two degreasers in the Leather Doctor system.
For the leather/suede/hide side grease stain remover system.
Degreaser-2.2, and Acidifier-2.0 or Rinse-3.0 is typically used.
When there is no evidence of alkaline overexposure then Rinse-3.0 suffice for rinsing and pH balancing.
If there is some sticky residue remaining a further second step of cleaning with Cleaner-3.8 followed by Rinse-3.0 is recommended.

For natural oil and grease hair side degreasing system.
Hair-on-Hide Degreaser-5.6 and Rinse Hair-4.0 are recommended.

It seems that you are trying to remove the oiling you have done on a few patches.

#1. Show what oil you have used.

#2. Show how heavy you have oil.

And we will discuss the possibility.

Attached are pics of the blanket with the section that I used the Black Rock leather n rich on.
The right side has leather n rich, the left is untouched.

The picture with my finger is pointing to the small section I tried a little bit of neatsfoot oil on.


Attachment 10878
#1


Attachment 10879
#2


Attachment 10880
#3

>>> Attached are pics of the blanket with the section that I used the Black Rock leather n rich on.
The right side has leather n rich, the left is untouched.

According to the product description, the product you used is carnauba wax and I do not think that Degreaser-2.2 is capable to remove it.

I found someone's opinion that even rubbing alcohol cannot remove it.

To remove carnauba wax, you will need the help of a professional-grade wax remover.

We still need to know if the professional-grade wax remover is 'leather-safe' before using it otherwise will create more issues with the hide.

In my humble opinion, just leave it alone.

However, test if Hydrator-3.3 can penetrate, if so Fatliquor-5.0 may still work.


>>> The picture with my finger is pointing to the small section I tried a little bit of neatsfoot oil on.

Neatfoot oil is a 'stuffing' oil that fills up the pores in between the fiber structure that blocks the breathing pores.

Since it is oil, Degreaser-2.2, and Rinse-3.0 system will dissolve and rinse off.

Leaving it alone will eventually evaporate off.

Fatliquor-5.0 is an ionic negative (-ve) charging oil that works by hydrogen bonding with the ionic positive (+ve) hide protein fiber.

Hide is an amphoteric material, so a low pH value of 3.3 with Hydrator-3.3 strengthen the ionic charges of the hide ionic positive (+ve).

When the hydrogen bond takes place with Fatliquor-5.0, the water-encased fat and oil break free and evaporate, creating breathing pores for the hide natural transpiration.

So sleeping under a natural transpiration blanket that breathes with Fatliquor-5.0 is more comfortable than with Carnauba Wax or Neatfoot Oil which seals up all the breathing pores.


My recommendation is to do another section with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 for a comparative study to confirm the advantages and beneficial differences before you proceed with your project.

>>> Yeah, that makes sense, there are some large rips, and having another order of the bond 3D, and Patch 4S seems like a good investment to me.


The Patch-4S is 6 x 4 inches and practical to trim in 1" strip which can cover 24" length.

The total length of repairs divided by 24" will determine how many patches you need, and each patch roughly will need 30 ml of Bond-3D.