2011 Honda Ridgeline with Light Gray Leather Seats has Dye Transfer from Black Belt!

Hello, I saw your leather cleaning information on the web.
I own a 2011 Honda Ridgeline with leather seats.
I try to maintain the vehicle as new condition as possible.
Today while cleaning the interior, I found dye transfer where my black belt rubs against the lumbar area of the seat.
The seat leather color is light gray.
Will your product remove the dye?
If possible, I would like to purchase the leather doctor kit.
Please advise me how to proceed. Thank you in advance.
Sincerely,
Donald Coley

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...Ridgeline1.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...Ridgeline2.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...Ridgeline3.jpg

#4
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Here is the problem-solving guide for perforated leathers as reference.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Pp.jpg
Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (P.p) – Perforated Leathers

We have to keep in mind that although the surface of such perforated surface is non-absorbent, the perforation itself is.

Therefore, non leather-safe alkaline products has to avoid from absorbed into the leather structure (suede), otherwise neutralizing it is mandatory as in this sequence of process. Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 (the suffix of products denotes its pH value).

When Bleach-9.9 is used, it is to avoid being absorbed by the perforated holes and is to be neutralized in this sequence; Prep-7.7 + Bleach-9.9 > Cleaner-3.8 > Acidifier-2.0.


Products for the above problem solving are found in this Kit Ap5.di

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdee0bf11.jpg
Leather Doctor® Auto Pigmented Leather Care + Ink/Dye + Bleach + Topcoat = Kit Ap5.di

Instructions to follow:

It is recommended to do a complete testing on the effectiveness of removal before we do it entirely.

Selected area is mark in “red”. Upon successful, the other areas can follow, first with the non-perforated areas, then the perforated areas.
This progress will also familiarize the process as the perforated areas will need more care as not to stuff the Prep-7.7 into the perforated holes into the suede structure.

It is recommended that you take pictures of the entire steps, so that we know if you have done it right.

Test Area 1] Cut the paper towel to this shape circle in red. 2] Apply Prep-7.7 onto the area and place the paper cut over it and squeeze the Prep-7.7 through without air space and leave it for 4 hours, for an inspection thereafter. 3] Repeat as necessary withh new application until desired result, up to 72hours. 4] Sticky residue is cleaned by Cleaner-3.8 follows by Rinse-3.0. This process completes the first phase of stain removal test.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...eline3copy.jpg



Roger Koh
[email protected]

Follow the treatment from these four steps. . .

#1 Stains to be removed.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...echnique-1.jpg

#2 Apply Prep-7.7 onto the stains.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...echnique-2.jpg

#3 Place the cut-out paper towel over the stains and remove air spaces so that the stains shows through
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...echnique-3.jpg

#4 A cling wrapper prevents the cut-out paper from falling off vertical surface.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...echnique-4.jpg

The advantages of using this technique.

1] Prep-7.7 would not streaks down from vertical surface.

2] The paper helps absorb the suspended stains neatly away from the surface.

Observation:

When paper is saturated with stains, replace and renew application.
For initial short treatment inspect after a 4 hours dwell.
When stains response becomes slower a 24 hours inspection is preferred, up to 72 hours.

Meanwhile the vehicle can still be used as long as the wrapping is secured for the patch to stay in place.

Questions you may have?

Like to see pictures, how you do it!

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Hi Roger,
I am almost done.
Have been delayed due to work and holidays.
I thought I was finished, but when I took photos in prep to send to you, I can see what I believe is a soiled area that surrounds where the dye transfer was.
I cannot see it with naked eye, but in camera flash photo I can see it.
This one area on left hand side of seat Pic 1 (when facing seat on left) is the only remaining area to finish.
All others look fine to me.
See photo below to see if you agree on if area appears soiled.
Should use 7.7 on it again?
I say again, that I cannot see it with naked eye, but confess that I would like to get it done correctly.
please advise.
If successful, I will send you photos made in good daylight.
Thanks

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...pse76e3d00.jpg

#2
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#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdca146e7.jpg

The cleaning steps can be repeated to the entire panel.

With shorter dwell time for the Prep-7.7, perhaps 30 minutes suffice.

Follows with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0

For perforated panels the perforated cross section is recommended to treat with Hydrator-3.3 and follow with Fatliquor-5.0 to soften-up the leather structure.

Thereafter apply Protetion-B+ for a non-stick, rub-resistance protection.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Roger, I believe that I can claim success. See final photos pic 1 is left hand side of driver's seat which was worst. Pic 2 is the perforated backrest of driver’s seat. pic 3 is right hand side of driver seat. Thank you very much for all of your assistance. Only question now is for future how do I purchase replacement supplies to maintain my leather. I have viewed the forum and cannot find anything like an order form. ?? Again thank you so much.

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erior/pic1.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erior/pic2.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erior/pic3.jpg

Just have to say awesome job. Seats came out like new.