This is Mark.
We spoke this afternoon about how to repair leather car seats that had black mold on them.
I've attached two pictures; hopefully they are clear enough for you to see the damage.
You can also see a small rust stain where the seat belt was.
#1
Attachment 7329
#2
Attachment 7330
This is what you will need after studying the pictures
1 - Kit-Af3
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-af3...ther-care-kit/
Attachment 7331
2 - Kit-A3.mk
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a3-...or-killer-kit/
Attachment 7332
3 - Prep-7.7 - a stronger prep cleaner for the non-perforated areas
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/prep-7-7/
4 - CleanTarnish-1.3 - for removing the rust stain.
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/cleantarnish-1-3/
5 - Basifier-8.8 - to neutralize the CleanTarnish-1.3
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/basifier-8-8/
You combine the above with no duplication would be sufficient to see significant improvement, and we can go from there to further improve appearance as necessary.
What do you think?
>>> I don't have a login to post on the forum and didn't see where I could obtain a login.
Have you registered, if not go ahead.
>>> I applied the Prep 7.7 and covered with paper towel, but I was not able to get the paper towel to stick with no air, so the Prep 7.7 would dry. I applied 3 times, using new paper towels and more Prep 7.7 each time. At the 72hour mark I used Clean 3.8 and Rinse 3.0. The attached photos show the result.
See post 5 #3 Paper towel is squeeze through the Prep-7.7 without leaving air space
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...cture-Showcase
>>> I can use Prep 7.7 multiple times within the 72-hour period before applying any Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0, right?
Right!
>>> I used the included horsehair brush the first time to apply the Prep 7.7 - the other times I just rubbed it in with my gloved finger. How should I clean the horsehair brush?
Clean the brush with Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0
>>> Do I try again with the Prep 7.7?
Yes, you can.
>>> I saw that I shouldn't apply the Prep 7.7 to the perforated leather - can I apply it to the regular leather where there is stitching? I hope so, because I've already done that.
No! Use Prep-4.4 instead if it bound to get into the leather structure, otherwise need to pH balance with Acidifier-2.0 to neutralize it.
Also see post #2 from this link for some cleaning examples:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...cture-Showcase
Thanks for your reply, Roger.
I've done two rounds of Prep 7.7, Clean 3.8 and Rinse. Here are pix of after the first round and after the second round:
First round result
Attachment 7498
Second round result
Attachment 7499
There is progress. I assume I keep doing this until I get all the black out?
You may recall what "products" you may have applied before the mold sets in could be what you are cleaning off now.
Does it still smells moldy?
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]
It doesn't really smell moldy now. I'm focusing on getting the black mold stains out.
Before using your products I only sprayed on apple cider vinegar and tried to wipe off the mold with a damp rag. I also took the seats out of the car and let them sit in the sun for an afternoon to try to kill the mold.
I've realized one mistake I've made is not letting the Prep 7.7 dwell before applying a paper towel. I applied some Prep 7.7 last night to two dark spots shown in the photos and let it dwell overnight. This morning I applied a paper towel but the Prep 7.7 had pretty much dried. If it's completely dry tonight I'll do the Clean 3.8 and Rinse and see what I get.
Testing Tips:
1- Apply Prep-7.7 heavily to a section and cling wrapped (plastic food wrapper) without air space (show picture).
2- Let it dwell up to 72hrs (the cling wrapper prevents Prep-7.7 from drying up).
3- Remove cling wrapper.
4- Spray Clean-3.8 and used horsehair Brush-1 (or a stiffer nylon Brush-2) and agitate to remove the soiling (show pictures).
5- When soiling is perfectly removed spray Rinse-3.0 until the leather feels squeaky.
6- Finished with Protector-B/B+
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]
[QUOTE=Roger Koh;21195]Testing Tips:
1- Apply Prep-7.7 heavily to a section and cling wrapped (plastic food wrapper) without air space (show picture).
2- Let it dwell up to 72hrs (the cling wrapper prevents Prep-7.7 from drying up).
3- Remove cling wrapper.
4- Spray Clean-3.8 and used horsehair Brush-1 (or a stiffer nylon Brush-2) and agitate to remove the soiling (show pictures).
5- When soiling is perfectly removed spray Rinse-3.0 until the leather feels squeaky.
6- Finished with Protector-B/B+
Thanks - I wish these instructions had been on the Prep 7.7 bottle...
What do I need to repair cracks as shown in the photo below?
Attachment 7500
Do you have before and after cleaning pictures to share?
>>> What do I need to repair cracks as shown in the photo below?
Tips:
1- The leather structure is highly recommended to be rejuvenated for suppleness to prevent further or potential cracks with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. Only when the leather gains strength and suppleness with satisfaction that repairs begins, otherwise the new repairs will also have a short life, as it will crack again too soon.
2- Repairs to leather may involve Impregnator-26 > Bond-3D > Stucco-90 system depending on its severity. Impregnator-26 is for tightening and strengthening weakness and may not be needed in this instance. Light filling may be used with Bond-3D with a better flexibility in highly used areas like seat cushion. Heavier or deeper filling may need Stucco-90 to be added ratio 1: 1 to the Bond-3D.
3- Repairs will leads you to refinishing with Adhesor-73 > Micro-54 > MicroTop-54M system.
4- Finishing protection is with Protector-B/B+ to reduce wear and friction rubs.
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]
[QUOTE=Roger Koh;21197]Do you have before and after cleaning pictures to share?
>>> What do I need to repair cracks as shown in the photo below?
>>Tips:
>>1- The leather structure is highly recommended to be rejuvenated for suppleness to prevent further or potential cracks with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. Only when the leather gains strength and suppleness with satisfaction that repairs begins, otherwise the new repairs will also have a short life, as it will crack again too soon.
Do I clean the leather before doing the Hydrator 3.3 > Fatliquor 5.0 . Hydrator 3.3?
***
OK, I followed your instructions of Prep 7.7 and plastic wrap then Clean 3.8. I did this twice, once with a 24 hour dwell and once with a 10 hour dwell. Here is the result after those two tries:
Attachment 7503
I don't see any progress. What do I do?
Do you know what we are trying to remove - it is no more the mold you talk about, surely it is something else and looks tough or sort of discoloured film.
Have you used a stiffer brush mentioned earlier, maybe Eraser-4 or some wooden skeewers to help peel the unknown off the leather finish.
I do not know exactly how you do it, unless it is by on-time "skype" but the possibilities is still there.
Keep trying other tools - once the Prep-77 penetrates, soften or suspend give it a try with a wooden skeewers and see if you did them out safely.
The next test is with Stripper-2.3, but it may also compromised the original finishing.
Let me know what you think?