2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee – Jean Dye Transfer Stains!

>>> I recently ordered your "Leather Doctor Kit Ap7.di – Auto Pigmented (perforated) Leather Dye / Ink Stain Removal Kit” for my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. There are light jean dye strains on the lower back portion of the seat (lumbar area). Prior to ordering this product I had tried some leather masters dye transfer remover. Despite being recommended, this did not work. It seems like it loosened the as and it all consolidated from one large area into a dense smaller area right where my belt would sit, however it would not release it from the leather to be wiped up. It also left the whole area with a tacky feeling that did not go away with hot soapy water like the instructions indicated would neutralize the product. After some more research I found your product, which also has good reviews. I have it on order and it should be arriving in the next few days. Since the old product left the entire area with a tacky feeling, is there something I need to do first prior to using your system? Thank you for your advice.

Sounds like the tacky feeling is not good news, if the clear topcoat is removed leaving only the colorcoat becomes much weaker for further treatment. We have to be very cautious if this is the case - not more rubbing need to be observe. If this is the sticky residue then the concern is lesser as they would be removed. Anyway, need good pictures and I will recommend more precisely.
Please included a picture of the product used against the stain area, sounds like the product have melt down the finishes of the leather. Is the leather perforated? What exactly is this “hot soapy water” used. If you can try to locate from your seller in regard to the MSDS for the dye transfer remover, to have a clue to why the ‘tacky feeling”.

>>> Here is the product that was used and an image of the stain.

#1
Attachment 3930

#2
Attachment 3931


Do you have pictures before this failed removal? Please to know the MSDS for this product, I have made a search and not abler to locate it. Try from your seller.


>>> I don’t have any specific pictures of that side of the seat prior to removal. Here are some pics of the other side of the seat. Its pretty faint but widespread. The other side looked the same prior to starting the removal process. Once this didn’t go as described, I did not attempt any removal on the other side of the seat. The stains originally was very light and stretched all the way down to the bottom of the seat. Now it seems to be in a small isolated spot but much more concentrated. I have requested the MSDS sheet from the manufacturer (Uniters NA) and should have that shortly. Here is the MSDS.

#1
Attachment 3932


#2
Attachment 3933


I can assure you that the untouched dye transfer stain will be removed to your utmost satisfaction with Leather Doctor leather-safe system. I only worried that the much solvent content of the products you used may have altered the nature of the stain making it much more difficult to removed without risking the colouring removal. Anyway, we shall start with the untouched areas using “reverse transfer” technique. I will explain further from our help and support forum. Remember that the perforated holes cross section are actually “suede”. Please do a test on the product. Wet it on a paper and try lighting it up and see if it catches fire. Show pictures of the flame if it catches fire. Once transfer I will give you the link and you can continue from there.


>>> It's hard to explain so here is a short video. It doesn't seem like the product caught fire but it evaporated from the heat and the paper underneath burned.

# Video


Interesting! Now try to smear Prep-7.7 on the same type of paper and light it up - show by video as well!

>>> I can’t test the Prep 7.7 yet as it won’t arrive till Saturday. I don’t know if it makes any different but the tackiness is only where the stain is (or better yet, where it has moved too) the rest of the treated area has lost most of the tackiness at this point.

We have to move to our help and support forum to further help you solve your problem. The untouched stains will be removed safely without any side effect for sure. Worst scenario is the finishes removal of the weak and vulnerable finishes and you have to take the risk on this failed attempt.

Update: Per the instructions I used the Acidifier and rinsed the areas prior to any other steps. This removed ALL of the tacky feeling. I have been letting the prep 7.7 dwell and after 48 hours the dye on the right has been removed and the dye on the left is about 80% gone.

Thanks,

Please show how the Prep-7.7 is dwell alone or with stretchable paper.

After 72 hours the leather need to be clean-up (Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0) check for tackiness - pH balance with Acidifier-2.0 before another Prep-7.7 treatment if necessary.

Let see some pictures if you are doing it right.

Roger,

At this point I have hit 72 hours and I am satisfied that the stain has been removed. Some of the dye went into the perforated holes but I doubt anything can be done about that. I am however having a hard time getting rid of the tacky feeling. I have used the cleaner and rinse along with several rounds of the acidifier.

Should I continue doing this or is there another step to take?

Ill try and get some pictures later.

>>> Some of the dye went into the perforated holes but I doubt anything can be done about that.

Dye? Please show some pictures.
Using a bamboo skewer of tooth prick that fits the hole is often used to remove any clog to the perforation.
Horsehair Brush-1 with Clean-3.8 and Acidifier-2.0 rinse and rinse these suede holes as well.


>>> I am however having a hard time getting rid of the tacky feeling.

Are you talking about the pre-existing sticky caused by fail attempt? You may lay the stretchable skin tight and let it dwell, however if it the finishes damages topcoat removed leaving the color coating vulnerable to stickiness. MicroTop-54 is applied to repair the finishes. If stickiness still persists then Crosslinker-25 10% is added to eliminate the tackiness.


>>> I have used the cleaner and rinse along with several rounds of the acidifier. Should I continue doing this or is there another step to take?

If you are talking about the fail attempt that result in tackiness. MicroTop-54M is the initial answer and if the tackiness is still presence Crosslinker-25 is need to control or salvage the tackiness. If the tackiness continuous the entire surface finishes will be easily rub-off from friction wear. When the finishes is removed it will involve Adhesor-73 > Micro-54 (matching color) > MicroTop-54 + 3% Crosslinker for added strength to the topcoat.

The area that is tacky is the entire area that the prep 7.7 was applied too. It's not limited to the failed area. It's not like honey sticky but it's not that squeaky clean feeling that the rest of the seat has.

Attachment 3960

Is this picture the after cleaning of post #1 picture #2?

The stain areas are also subject to friction rubs that may have wear off the clear topcoat.

If you are satisfied with the stain removal, the next step is to reapply topcoat to solve the tacky problem.

Thanks for this picture. . .

Attachment 3961

Is that a particular amount of time I should let the topcoat cure for after applying?

24hrs will do, longer better.

Give it a try thereafter if the tackiness is still presence, otherwise you will need Crosslinker-25.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

24hrs will do, longer better.

Give it a try thereafter if the tackiness is still presence, otherwise you will need Crosslinker-25.

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After 18 hrs of curing it's not any smoother. Will the crosslinker put back on the protective coat? Before I order I want to make sure I have everything needed. At this point the color is fine but I want to make sure everything is sealed and this spot doesn't wear or stain too easily.

Thanks

After several coats of the MicroTop 54 and allowing it to cure for 48 hours, most of the tackiness was gone however after a 20 minute drive, the dye off my belt was pulled back onto the treated spot. I currently have prep 7.7 sitting on the new stains. How can I keep this from happening again?

>>> How can I keep this from happening again?

Are we talking about this seat - "There are light jean dye strains on the lower back portion of the seat (lumbar area)." ?

You will need 10% of Crosslinker-25 to add onto MicroTop-54 to solve the finishes problem.

Please show some pictures.