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Need help with this one. This is a lambskin Fendi spy I bought. It is supposed to be "Black" but turned dark green from the previous owner. What kit would I need to fix this?Attachment 1956Attachment 1955Attachment 1957Attachment 1958Attachment 1959
Thanks
Most of the products are found in this Kit A7.cl with Black as the color of choice from this link: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ers/Categories
And the reference guide is to use the – Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide that recommend solutions to the problems accordingly.
Attachment 1962
Attachment 1963
Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or show signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.
Email [email protected] for a color matching services.
Please email [email protected] with your choice of color available from:
Antique-Brown, Black, Yellow, Orange, Red, Red-Brown, Rubine, Blue, Dark-Brown.
And choice of topcoat luster - Gloss or Matte, Satin is a mix of Gloss and Matte.
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
I just ordered the Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit. What are the steps to take with this kit?
>>> I just ordered the Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit. What are the steps to take with this kit?
Use the guide for reference and from pictures we have problems include fading, abrasion, including a deep abrasion into the leather structure that may require repairs that need to deal with. Foreign contamination need to be removed as well as pH balance to the leather chemistry integrity, leather hydrated and softens up prior to skin and deep abrasion repairs prior to dyeing, topcoating and rub-resistant protection.
A combination sequence of steps into phase is as follows:
Phase 1 Removal of foreign soiling contamination:
Use - Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0
Stain Remover – Body Oil, Grease & Sweat.
Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorb body contact oil, grease and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifest as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In additional to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average iso-electric point (pI) of leather revitalize the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive attraction towards the negative leather constituents that includes the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reduce dye bleeding in a leather-safe waterbased system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system.
Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe waterbased degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is design for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar and cuffs of garment, handles of bag including steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse emulsified soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for rinsing, bleeding control and pH balancing sweaty contamination from leather denaturing into rawhide.
Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 is a waterbased pH 2.0 leather acidifier designs for controlling dye bleeding in conjunction with Degreaser-2.2 in extreme prolong oil, grease and sweat decontamination system. As a standalone, it is for pH balancing alkaline overexposure that manifest as marks, streaks, brightness and tackiness.
This basic cleaning or degreasing is necessary prior to refinishing, however inspection is necessary to check for other stains types that may need further specialty cleaning accordingly to the guide. When the leather looks good at this stage of soiling contamination, the process moves on to the hydrating stage with Hydrator.
Phase 2 – Removing of old and deteriorated finishes:
Use – Stripper-2.3
Leather Doctor® Stripper-2.3 is a pH 2.3 duality residue free hydrocarbon formulated leather finish stripper with bleeding control. It is use to remove existing old finishes or overspray for all leather types. Tools may include Eraser-4, Razor-60, 2000grit, etc.
Phase 3 Hydrating:
Use - Hydrator-3.3
Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
The multi functional abilities include:
a) to check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.
b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles.
c) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.
d) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.
e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
f) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively.
Hydrating is the last step of the cleaning process, especially below surface stains that need to be wick up to the surface, preferably trapped with tissue paper as an extension of the skin. This is also the last process to check for surface readiness for further refinishing processes through the leather Eraser-4 process.
Phase 4 Fatliquoring or (fat, oil and water replenishing).
Use – Fatliquor-5.0
Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0, a micro emulsion of fat, oil and water is an anionic charged pH 5.0 fatliquor for rejuvenating all leather types. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.
Phase 5 Repairs:
Use – Adhesor-73
Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73 is an auxiliary for refinishing pigmented, aniline, bicast and simulated leathers. This is a waterbased compact resin adhesion promoter for a) smoothening abraded surfaces; b) ensure proper sealing and adhesion prior to color coating.
For optional bonding holes repairs:
Use Bond-3D
Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Pigment-64, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A.
Note: depending on how the outcome of the situation hole repairs is to be done first prior to Adhesor-73.
Phase 6 Redyeing:
Use – Aniline-76
Aniline-76 is a transparent dyestuff that is design for coating over existing topcoat. This lively and brilliant new generation aqueous dyestuff provides a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes. Use AnilineTop-76 thereafter to seal dyestuff from crocking or bleeding that also decides the luster with either gloss or matte, or a mix for a satin luster.
Airbrushing will produce professional result free of streaks from simple brush application otherwise use fine varnishing brushes.
Phase 7 Topcoating:
Use – AnilineTop-76
AnilineTop-76 is a heavy-duty gloss topcoat design for upholstery and auto aniline leathers. It is a waterbased fine particular size urethane-resin emulsion to protect aniline dyestuff with excellent toughness and flexibility. Luster is available in gloss or matte for direct application or a mix to produce a satin luster.
Phase 8 Rub-Resistant Protection:
Use – Protector-B+
Leather Doctor® Protector-B+, a buttery-feel with a classic leather scent is design for pigmented, aniline and nubuck oil pull-up leather types. This is a non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural tactile feel for imparting a breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling and preventing the too common pesky ballpoint from ever ready rolling out its nasty ink. Moreover, for helping to release those tenacious blue jeans dye-transfer stains obviously on light colored leathers easily. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch; scuff and abrasion with reduce friction squeaks.
I will follow up with techniques to assist you further as you proceed.
Roger Koh
Leather care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
Roger,
I finally got around to opening the Kit A7.cl for the Fendi Spy. Phase 1 Removal of foreign soiling contamination:
Use - Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0.
I'm guess this step is the same I used to clean my Givenchy Nightingale. Question: Does it make a difference whether I use the "Acidifier" or "the Rinse"?
Function of Acidifier-2.0 and Rinse-3.0 for rinsing is the same.
To control dye bleeding (check dye transfer to towel) and use Acidifier-2.0 instead.
Completed phase 1, ready to start with phase 2 (stripper) Update: Completed Phase 2 and now in Phase 3. The bag has sat overnight, so will be checking it soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Appreciate you show your stages of progress in pictures.
Attachment 2163
Attachment 2164
In the hydrating/drying stage
Tips:
Stuff it up to retain its shape when dry.
The bag was stuffed with two small pillows when I started. Added a towel. I think the Hydrator relaxed the bag. Will start with Phase 4 tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
After-hydrating pictures: can clearly see the damage to be repaired.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippy14u
Attachment 2165Attachment 2166Attachment 2167Attachment 2168
Just completed the "fat liquoring" of the bag. Those pictures will follow after the drying.
Tips:
When the leather is crispy dry work with dry horsehair Brush-1 and Eraser-4 to erase wick-up surface soiling if any.
All deteriorated reflective remnant topcoat is to be removed as well with help of Razor-60.
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
Got as much soiling off without creating more damage. Could you do a step by step with this one?
Repairs (refer to pictures from post #12):
Products necessary for bonding is leather Bond-3D and 7A.
Missing leather fibers from abrasion will require donor from another piece of sheepskin or lambskin scrape.
The fiber is scrape with Razor-60 from the suede side and used for filling holes, especially pictures #3.
Otherwise if it is rather a tear then leather Patch-4S is used as a sub-patch to bond the tear in place.
Tools to work on the skin damages includes, forceps to place the donor lambskin fiber in position and a ball tip tool or equivalent is used to work the fiber with the bond into missing spots.
The above mentioned is the first step to the repairs.
The second step is the surface repairs to smoothen the skin by using Adhesor-73 and horsehair Brush-1. This is done to the entire surface to even out the appearance and absorbent rate prior to Aniline-76.
Anilne-76 is best applied with an airbrush with a continuous pressure of 80 to 100psi for professional result.
Other tools are also appropriate like foam brush or varnishing brushes and this is applied panel by panel to appearance satisfaction.
AnilineTop-76G or 21G is used to seal the dyestuff from bleeding or crocking.
The final application is Protector-B+ to reduce friction wear for future usage.
Let see your progress step by step and I will provide tips as we get along.
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
If the "donor lambskin" can be any color, not a problem. I don't understand the "scrape". Does this mean just using the shavings from the lambskin? If it is a hole, do a cut a piece to place under the hole?
>>> If the "donor lambskin" can be any color, not a problem.
Of the same color is preferred, otherwise test out with dyeing over it.
Tips: a little black dyestuff can be added to the Bond-3D during the repairs.
>>> I don't understand the "scrape". Does this mean just using the shavings from the lambskin?
Shave the suede side of a lambskin (preferable of the same color) and this is used as fillers once the Bond-3D is there to received them.
>>> If it is a hole, do a cut a piece to place under the hole?
If it is a hole (with missing fibers) use Patch-4s with the suede side facing upwards and work the Bond-3D at he hole edges to have the patch bond in place dried before doing the filling up.
If it is a tear bond one side of the Patch-4s to one edge first and wait till dry prior to bond the other side.
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
My kit only had the "Adhesor73", not the leather Bond-3D and 7A. Will just the Adhesor only work? If just the adhesion, is the lamb skin scrape put down first?
>>> My kit only had the "Adhesor73", not the leather Bond-3D and 7A. Will just the Adhesor-73 only work?
Adhesor-73 may not have the bonding power to do so. Bond-3D is for bonding and Bond-7A is for correcting the bonding after it is dry to remove surface excess.
>>> If just the adhesion, is the lambskin scrape put down first?
Easier to work when the Bond-3D is applied so that it will bond to suede fiber filling for better control. Application tools already mentioned to both place the suede fibers and working to smooth it down.
Attachment 2196
Leather Doctor Leather Bond-3D (30ml)
Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Pigment-64, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A. http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-7A/Categories
Attachment 2197
Leather Doctor Leather Bond-7A (30ml)
Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-7A is a bond smoothening aid and excess clean up after Bond-3D. This is a soft nitrocellulose lacquer emulsion bonding aid to level and remove excess Bond-3D from leather surface safely without the need for sanding. http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-7A/Categories
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
Will continue this after I've ordered the product(s):
Leather Doctor Leather Bond-7A (30ml), Leather Doctor Leather Bond-3D (30ml)