PDA

View Full Version : Aniline (Sauvage) - Questions on Cleaning, Conditioning & Refinishing Aniline Leathers?



chet
02-16-2009, 02:49 PM
Roger,

What is the harm in rinsing aniline with a hot rinse solution (150 to 180 degrees) of the proper pH.

I think it would help release more of the greasy soils encountered.

I'm still not happy with how aniline cleans up, and I worry about soil that is left behind.

I still don't understand why the worn and previously soiled areas still look dark after thoroughly cleaning and rinsing.

If the dye is all the way through the leather, shouldn't it just look faded and dull if it was clean?

Roger Koh
02-16-2009, 05:56 PM
>>>What is the harm in rinsing aniline with a hot rinse solution (150F to 180F / 65C to 82C) of the proper pH.


Raw or un-tanned skin shrinks in area at about 60C / 140F in a very distinctive and definite way.

Vegetable-tanned leathers shrink at about 65C / 149F

A maximum safe limit for chrome leathers is 80C / 176F

Remember, these figures are from standard tannery practice.

We have not factor in the dyestuff, fatliquors and other heat sensitive constituents that may easily break bonds with the protein fibers at its critical temperature.

So, in normal tannery practice a safe wet working temperature limit would be 38C / 100F we should adopt too!


>>>I think it would help release more of the greasy soils encountered.

I agree that higher temperatures release more greasy soil.

A rule of thumb is that for 10C / 18F rise in temperature, the rate of reaction doubles.

So naturally the higher the temperature, the faster and better will be the cleaning result.

But there are limits before damages become apparent to the protein fiber (cooked) or leaching out of essential leather constituents like dyes or fatliquors.


>>>I'm still not happy with how aniline cleans up, and I worry about soil that is left behind.
>>>I still don't understand why the worn and previously soiled areas still look dark after thoroughly cleaning and rinsing.
>>>If the dye is all the way through the leather, shouldn't it just look faded and dull if it was clean?

Let me show you some pictures on my next posting how we solve this problem.

In the meanwhile show us some pictures of your concern.

Roger Koh
Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification #942
Leather Care Technician
Master Textile Cleaner
Master Fire & Smoke Restorer
Journeyman Water Restorer
Since 1973

chet
02-17-2009, 01:18 PM
The pictures are in the aniline restoration post.

If you look back at the beginning photos the leather looks worn and lighter in most areas.

I can see some dark, areas from newsprint or crocking from clothes and soil.

My question is if you look at the same pieces after cleaning, rinsing and rehydrating they look much darker, especially after impregnator.

I feel if I could have kept them lighter I could have used less dye and kept them softer and more original.

#1:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/IMG_0803.jpg


#2:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/2-4-09373.jpg


#3:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f289/Chet50/aniline011.jpg

Roger Koh
02-17-2009, 02:50 PM
Let’s review the sequence of products, tools and techniques you used, stop at picture #2.

Roger Koh

chet
02-18-2009, 04:36 AM
1: Spot cleaned and rinsed several spots with d'Protein11.0.
d'Ink7.7 sponged on and slight agitation with brush, let dwell 24 hours.

2: d'Grease4.9 sprayed on, agitated with 3m white pad, immediately extracted with towels. Repeated until there was little or no transfer to towel.

3: clean3.8 sprayed on, agitated with horsehair brush, extracted with towels, until there was no transfer.

4: rinse3.0 sprayed on, extracted with towels and used vacuum from truckmount in worse areas, repeated several times until towels showed clean.

5: Applied relaxer3.3, covered with plastic and dwelled overnight.

6: Applied fatliquor5.0 (heavy) agitated in with brush, covered and allowed to dwell overnight.

7: Sprayed rinse3.0, covered with tissue, sprayed rinse3.0 on tissue and covered withtowels to keep tissue tight against leather (poulticed).

8 Allowed to dry 2 days with heat.

9 Erased with anilineEraser4.

This is the point this picture was taken

Roger Koh
03-12-2009, 12:32 AM
Here is what I have done to an Aniline Leather back cushion in comparison to your post #3, stopping at picture #2.


#1: Degreasing Oil & Grease from Aniline Leather back cushion headrest.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/1-11.jpg


#2: After greasy soil removal with anilineEraser4™, d’Oil4.4™ is foam brushed on.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/2-11.jpg


#3: After dwelling for at least 30 minutes or longer, the sticky soil is extracted with absorbent towel and continue with clean3.8™ to remove the sticky residue.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/3-8.jpg


#4: This picture shows the anilineEraser4™ that does the scrubbing.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/4-8.jpg


#5: Acidifying rinse follows with rinse3.0™ with this low pH value of 3.0 you does not see dye bleeding common when just using water with a pH value of 7.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/5-6.jpg


#6: Hand scudding can be accomplished with simple tools like a curve plastic card, a stake70™ or a razor60™.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/6-3.jpg


#7: Extraction with disposable absorbent towel rag is simply practical shown here.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/7-3.jpg


#8: After fatliquor5.0™ and when dry; the leather is repeatedly worked over with anilineEraser4™, stake70™ or razor60™ to achieve the intended end result.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/8-3.jpg


#9: This picture shows leatherTool6™ is used to stake the leather to eliminate the darkening effect.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/9-2.jpg


#10: This picture shows the final result of degreasing, dry prep with all tools mentioned above with fine sanding to remove deteriorated existing top coat.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/10-2.jpg


What do you think so far, before I show you the next phrase of refinishing it to an original aniline finishes.


Roger Koh
Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification #942
Leather Care Technician
Master Textile Cleaner
Master Fire & Smoke Restorer
Journeyman Water Restorer
Since 1973

Roger Koh
03-20-2009, 11:55 AM
This is what looks like as compared with the darkening effect on your pictures #3.

All the darkening areas need to be stake either with stake70™ or leatherTool6™ each time coatings dries to reduce the darkening effect to the desired result possible!

What do you think?


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/15.jpg