From what I have been reading it seems to boil down to clean, strip, fill cracks, sand dye and top coat.
What is missing is the “Leather Rejuvenating” so the complete restoration process would be in this sequence:
1] Wet Preparation:
This is done with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0 with tools like leather Brush-1, leather Eraser-4 and sanding grit 1500/2000. The main objective is to remove foreign contamination especially oily or greasy soiling residue, old and deteriorated finishes that may impede adhesion of new finishes. Notice the suffix number of products, these numbers is the pH value. At pH value below the neutral of leather approximate 4, the protein fiber is ionic positively (+ve) charged to strengthen the chemistry integrity of the leather structure.
2] Leather Rejuvenation:
This process objective is to return the leather to its original suppleness with strength; and it is accomplished with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0
3] Repairs to the Leather Structure:
Leather structure looseness is strengthen by Impregnator-26 and repair to cracks, hlding them back together is by using Leather Bond-3D.
4] Adhesion Coating:
This is also known as sealing to even out the surface absorbency prior to color coating and to ensure proper adhesion; product use is Adhesor-73
5] Color Coating:
This is done with matching color Micro-Pigment-54 – these are finer micro-size pigment that will not give a plasticky feeling to the leather.
6] Topcoating:
Topcoating is done with Micro Topcoat-72 available in matte, satin or gloss.
7] Non-stick, rub-resistant, buttery-feel, leather-scent protection:
Use Protection-B+
Any insight about replacing the screw in type legs? The creme one has a rather large hole as I was trying to use some old couch legs but that didn't work.
Picture will help.
The creme color one was advertised as Natuzzi leather. The other one was a garbage pick. What type of leather would you call these?
These are “pigmented” leathers, pigment is used as finish to cover the leather with opacity (non see through) rather that aniline (see through). There are still varieties of pigmented leather, the two are the common mono-tone types. Besides looking at the finish, the value of the leather depends on the form of leather types as well; example a full-grain leather will be typically be micro-pigmented and will be the most expensive types among all pigmented leathers. Next is the top-grain leather, follows with corrected grain; corrected grain and embossed; split, coated and embossed will be the lowest grade. Simply to say, take a look at the reverse suede side, in comparison the finer the texture the more expensive the pigment leather is.
I was thinking about making both couches black because it would be easier than color matching if I could rehab the damage. Just want these presentable so they will sell.
When having a contrasting color change, having in mind that more attention is needed to crevices and corners; moreover when scratch the existing color will show.
Any chance crack filler and light sanding will help the brown cracks?
Sure sanding and filling will help improve the appearance of the cracks, but without rejuvenating the thickness of the structure and returning to its suppleness when dry; the repairs will soon crack when flexed.
I would love to know how to rehab for resale. I see so many different opinions and products so I'm not sure the best approach. Ever heard of vinylladies.com and their "Rub N' Restore" product? Is Fiebings dye any good?
Dyes are “transparent” and are not suitable for such restoration; micro-pigment is recommended not to produce a too heavy finish over existing finish.
Ever heard of the story of the Blind men and an elephant? “All opinions maybe partly in the right”, and to some these are acceptable standard, while others seek for an holistic answer.
Roger Koh
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