My recommendation for this project is as follows:
Coffee Stain
The old coffee stains if compounded with cream or milk have to go with this recommended sequence of process;
d’Protein-10 > d’Tannin-1.3
The d’Protein-10 is a pH 10 protein stain removal, as milk is classed as a protein-based stain; tends to coagulate as it penetrate into the protein leather fiber.
This high pH value of 10 is specially design to help breakdown (emulsify) protein stain.
Thereafter the low pH value of the d’Tannin-1.3 (pH 1.3) is design both to neutralize the high pH and acts as a reducing agent (bleach) to diminish the tannin color of the coffee stain.
This combination sequence of process will bring the leather pH back to its neutral of 3 to 5, safely.
Headrest Body Oil
Body oil besides grease, there is also the sweat that is more damaging to the leather as the trace of uric acid when ferment will shift alkaline; often progressively leading leather from stiffness to cracking; recommended sequence of process is as follows:
Degreasing-2.2 > Rinse-3.0
Degreaser-2.2 at pH 2.0 have basically three functions – to degrease the penetrated oil, to neutralize the shifting of the pH back to normal; and control dye bleeding at the same time.
Unknown Stain
The unknown stain removal is recommended in this sequence of removal.
d’Protein-10 > Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0
Sunfading
Aniline dyestuff fades much easily than pigment color naturally.
Besides the color from dyes, fatliquor (fat, oil and water in the leather up to 14%) are continuous diminishing as gases; also contributes to the intensity of the color, so a loss of fatliquor will have an impact to the color.
This is the approach to leather rejuvenation that might bring back the color to a degree, with the last resort of applying matching dye coating in these steps.
Restorative Cleaning
Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0
This sequence of process objective is to remove all foreign contamination after specific stain removal as mentioned above.
Hydrating
Hydrator-3.3
This hydrating objective is to activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure to resurface (just like activating tea color with hot water); however an effective hydrating would require proper soaking the leather and leaving to dwell up to 72 hours to realize its effectiveness with control drying technique.
Fatliquor
Fatliquor-5.0
This is done in conjunction with hydrating to achieve an even appearance with reduce the surface tension prior to effective fatliquor replenishing it.
With additional of fat, oil and water hydrogen bonded to the leather fibrils, it will take a richer color effect.
Topcoating
All the light scratches or scuff you see are the damaged topcoat.
With fresh topcoating, it will magnify the color intensity; besides giving it renewed protection against friction wear.
Dyeing
Dyeing is an option and it has to be done as “Coating dye” instead of “Staining dye” over the existing topcoat; otherwise the existing topcoat has to be completely remove for the dye to stain it.
Adhesion-73 > (Aniline Dye-21 Red-Brown
Rub Resistant Protection
To reduce friction wear Protection-B+ is recommended, however if leather scent is something you do not like, than go for the scentless version know as Protection-B, without the plus (+).
Let me know if you wish to add more products as mentioned to the Kit AE3 by email.
Roger Koh
[email protected]