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Leatherestore
08-22-2008, 02:53 PM
How to decontaminate domestic animal (cat dog)/Human urine from pigmented (protected/top coated) and unprotected (semi-aniline, wax/oil pullups, Nubuck, full aniline) upholstery leathers? We might get some discussion on protected vs semi-protected vs unprotected but the bottom line is we have a stain on these that must be removed and decontaminated.

Roger Koh
08-23-2008, 12:45 PM
The banner above shows a variety of leathers that has been urine contaminated from various reasons

- bladder control from elderly people, changing of baby nappies, young child nappies overflow while sleeping on the sofa, etc.

Cats most often does it on cushion and dogs spray on corners.

Since I am doing the bag on the right side I shall talk about how I do the decontamination.

It is an aniline/suede combination design by Francesco Biasia® 6 months old from Italy.

Her 17 years old male cat urinated on it, where you can see the wet stain.

The priority request was to treat the wet urine mark invincible and the urine smell removed too.

Here are the steps for urine stains that are “still wet”.

Step 1 - Urine Extraction
Absorb as much liquid out of it as possible and turn out the lining (in this case is a bag/purse).

Step 2 - Uric Acid Removal
d’Protein11.0™ (pH value 11.0 is a protein based spotting agent for vomit, urine, eggs, milk, creams on all leathers).
It is spray on and agitate with leatherBrush1™ (horsehair) saturating the urine stain leather structure areas deep where the urine has penetrated.
Let it dwell for 5 to 15 minutes for chemical reaction and extract as much of the uric acid contaminants as possible without scratching or
damaging the sensitive aniline leather.
The purpose is to remove the protein components to minimize the attraction of natural bacteria from the atmosphere from digesting and
fermenting the protein contaminants.

Picture #1 - Urine Mark
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/018.jpg

Picture #2 - Spray, Agitate & Dwell
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/021.jpg


Picture #3 - Extract
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/020.jpg

Step 3 - Ammonia and Phosphorus Salt Removal
d’Urine2.2™ (pH value 2.2 is an urine ammonia and phosphorus salt neutralizing agent from “reverse-tanning” on all leathers).
It is similarly spray on and agitate with similar brush to saturate the urine stains leather structure deep where the urine and d’Protein11.0™ has penetrated.
Let it dwell for 5 to 15 minutes for chemical reaction to take place and thereafter extract as dry as possible.
This is a dual function approach first it is to eliminate the presence of ammonia and phosphorus salt that will turn alkaline as high as pH 9.5 to 10 from bacteria
activities.
The urea that becomes ammonia will break the bonds between the tanning agent and the protein fibers and migrate out as black residue in chrome leather
as shown on one of the above banner (green semi-aniline leather with black “tanning residue” stains).
Vegetable-tanned leather is more ammonia sensitive than Chrome-Tanned leathers.
The high pH exposure from the leather neutral of 3-5 also cause original anionic (-) fatliquor to break bonds (that's the reason for stiffness from a leach out fatliquor).
As dyes are mostly acidic in nature too, this high pH destabilizes the dyestuff as it moves away from the centre to form rings with most color loss from the center.
The other purpose of this low pH of 2.2 is to neutralize the high pH of 11.0 to bring the pH to leather neutral of 3-5.

Picture #4 Ammonia & Phosphorus Salt Removal
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/029.jpg

Step 4 - Inspection Of Spots & Stains with a Magnifying Glass (not urine related)

Picture #5 - Close-Up Inspection
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/023.jpg

Step 5 - Oil Based Stains Removal (not urine related)
d’Oil4.4™ (pH value 4.4 is a leather safe dye transfer, oil and grease mild spotting agent for all leathers).

Picture #6 - Spoting
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/032.jpg

Step 6 - Heavier Solvent Based Stains Removal (not urine related)
d’Ink7.7™ (pH value 7.7 is a general silicone, oil, grease, dye transfer and ink spotting agent for all leathers).

Picture #7 - Spotting
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/033.jpg

Picture #8 (leatherTool6™)
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/025.jpg


Step 7. - General Degreasing
d’Grease4.9™ (pH value 4.9 is an aqueous leather safe degreaser like oil, dressing, butter or lotion for all leathers).
Spray on heavy soil areas and feather out entire section of the leather/suede combination with leatherBrush1™ on aniline leather and a choice of nubuckBrush2™ or suedeBrush3™ with nubuckEraser5™ on the suede section and let it dwell 5 to 15 minutes before extraction.

Picture #9 - Degreasing
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/044.jpg

Picture #10 - nubuckEraser5™
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/053.jpg


Step 8 - General Cleaning
clean3.8™ (pH value 3.8 is a leather safe aqueous general purpose cleaner for all leathers).
Spray, agitate with appropriate brush and extract.

Picture #11 - General Cleaning.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/051.jpg


Step 9 - Acidifying Rinse
rinse3.0™ (pH value 3.0 is a leather safe aqueous mild acidifier all purpose rinse for all leathers).
Spray soak, agitate with appropriate brush and extract.

Picture #12 - Acidifying Rinsing
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/054.jpg


Step 10 - Fatliquoring
fatliquor5.0™ (pH value ±5.0 is an anionic (-) charged micro emulsion fatliquor for softening and strengthening all leathers).
Spray and spread soak with a foam brush to work into the leather structure with even penetration.

Picture #13 - Spray Fatliquoring
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/067.jpg

Picture #14 - Spread it for more effective penetrating into the leather structure.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/071.jpg

Step 11
leatherScent’B™ (is a non film-forming, non-stick tactile feel conditioner to enhance a soft natural buttery feel with a classic leather scent).
Spray and spread with a foam brush.

Picture #15 - To impart the original classic leather scent!
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/006.jpg


Questions are welcome,

or share with us your experience?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

Roger Koh
08-25-2008, 01:03 AM
Step 9A.
d’Bacteria3.7™ (pH value 3.7 is a leather safe, biodegradable, odorless and colorless bactericide to kill organic odors for all leathers).
Spray soaks onto stain area to sterilize against organic odor.

Picture #12A - Sterilize against Organic Odor

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/064.jpg

Roger Koh

Leatherestore
08-25-2008, 04:07 AM
Great shots. Would there be any changes to the procedures if the stain were not 'fresh' but more like the black one (green sofa) or the others that have been sitting for a time? Also did you force dry after extraction since it looks like you got limited wetting of the aniline? Most upholstery anilines we have seen here will immediately turn dark with even a spray on cleaner.

Roger Koh
08-25-2008, 11:18 AM
Most upholstery anilines we have seen here will immediately turn dark with even a spray on cleaner.

Please, could you let us know the pH value of products that you use?

I may be able to tell you why!

Your other two questions I will post later.

Roger Koh

Roger Koh
08-27-2008, 02:48 PM
Would there be any changes to the procedures if the stain were not 'fresh' but more like the black one (green sofa) or the others that have been sitting for a time?

Dried Urine Stain decontamination procedure:

Picture #1 - The Cat.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/DSCN3567.jpg

Picture #2 - The Black and White Stains.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/DSCN3569.jpg

Picture #3 - The close-up that went beyond the leather.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/DSCN3571.jpg

Picture #4 - Through the furniture structure onto the dust cloth.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/DSCN3589.jpg

Prolonged Dried out Urine Stain:

What we see sometimes is a combination of black stains (tanning agent) with white powdery residues (phosphorus, ammonia or other salt, etc) on aged urine stains and also resulted in stiff leather.

This cat has obediently done it many times to this sofa in the basement for almost half a year on the same spot (was told).

This is a sign of “reverse tanning” where the tanning agent, fatliquor, dyestuff (and other leather chemistry constituents) breaks bond with the protein fiber.

The ammonia high pH value raises the protein fiber above the iso-electric point thus reversing the protein fiber charges to an anionic (-) charge that causes breaking of hydrogen bonds (like poles repel, ions hydrogen bonding behaves just like a magnet).

The stiffness is the result of lost of fatliquor that need to be replenished to regain softness and strength with fatliquor5.0™.

Discoloration or loss of dyes or colors needs matching refinishing.

“Reverse tanning” or leather denaturing is an ammonia high pH phenomenon that revert the leather back to raw hide.

Theoretically speaking it can be “re-tan” (that is a long process of Decontamination > Soaking > Pickling > Tanning > Fatliquoring > Dyeing > Refinishing > Sensuous Conditioning).

In practice it is tedious as the leather in question may have to be dismantle for proper Soaking > Pickling > Tanning.


How do we decontaminate it?

Step 1 - Dry Soil Removal.
Using appropriate brushes like leatherBrush1™, nubuckBrush2™ or suedeBrush3™ follows with thorough vacuuming.

Step 2 - Dry Soil Removal Continues.
Using anilineEraser4™ for all smooth leathers and nubuckEraser5™ for all suede and nubuck.

Step 3 - Uric Acid Removal
Spray soak with d’Protein11.0™ agitate > dwell > extract.

Step 4 - Ammonia and Phosphorus Salt Removal.
Spray soak with d’Urine2.2™ agitate > dwell > extract.

Step 5 - Tackiness or Sliminess Rectification.
Spray soak with acidifier2.0™ agitate > dwell > extract until a squeaky (healthy) wet feel.

Step 6 - General Degreasing the entire panel.
Spray d’Grease4.9™ agitate > dwell > extract.

Step 7 - General Cleaning
Spray clean3.8™ agitate > extract.

Step 8 - Restore Leather Chemistry Integrity
Spray rinse3.0™ agitate > extract until towel shows clean.

Step 8 a - Organic Odor Control
Spray d'Bacteria3.7™ to sterilize agianst organic odor from bacteria activities.

Step 9 - Rehydration for entire panel (Avoid blotchiness especially semi-aniline leathers)
Spray relaxer3.3 agitate for even absorption (a clear plastic sheet to cover helps even out blotchiness).

Step 10 - Restore Leather Softness and Strength.
Spray fatliquor5.0™ and spread with a foam brush for even penetration and allow for very slow drying overnight.

Step 11 - Restore coarse break, crease and wrinkle with heat treatment.
Iron over paper/Teflon with ordinary iron without steam.

Step 12 - Restore the original classic leather scent.
Spray and spread leatherScent’B™, D, S or W to enhance the leather sensuously with choice of a non-stick buttery, draggy, silky or waxy feel.

Welcome your question!

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System

Leatherestore
08-28-2008, 04:18 PM
Is there a photo of the completed product?

Roger Koh
08-29-2008, 06:47 PM
Is there a photo of the completed product?



Here are the 37 Cleaning & Conditioning Products - Part 1 of 4.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/005.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/006-1.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/007.jpg

Roger Koh
08-30-2008, 03:44 PM
Also did you force dry after extraction since it looks like you got limited wetting of the aniline?



No force drying after extraction necessary as we want the leather structure to be hydrated for effective fatliquoring.

But not necessary over-flooding the inter-fibrillary spaces but allowing fatliquoring to be easily redistribute itself throughout the leather structure once applied.

As fatliquoring is the final stage of the wet cleaning process, it is also left for slow drying without force drying for extra softness when dry.

Roger Koh.