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ckapec
05-01-2011, 06:07 PM
hi, this is my first post. I found this forum via googling. I just bought this sofa on craig's list. now, how do I fix the defects? pictures below: full view, detail of seat, detail of arm

#1
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc448/ckapec/fullchair.jpg


#2
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc448/ckapec/couchseat.jpg


#3
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc448/ckapec/chairarrm.jpg

Roger Koh
05-03-2011, 02:36 PM
Picture #2 looks like the structure is overstretch that widens up the finish micro cracks that becomes visible. The lower seam missing finish is cause by friction rubs. Picture tells us that this is a pigmented leather finish with a possible satin luster.

These missing finishes are also where the soiling from the surrounding finishes has been accumulated; that may need.

Picture #3 shows deep creases; the result of diminishing fatliquor that leads to stiffening of the leather structure; except to the weakening collapsing or crushing fault lines due to constant flexing; resulting in cracking off the finishes (color and top coat)

How do I fix the defects?

There are too many options to fix the defect, one is short-term fix; the other is long-term fix for at least lasting over a 5 years period. I will discuss how best to have a holistic fix to be worth the effort, you may want to take some of the option out and short-cut it. Just like the three little pigs that build their house attitude.

This is the general structure for a holistic long-term fix.

1] Preparatory cleaning – this is where all foreign contamination is stripped with this Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 leather-safe system.

2] Removal of deteriorated finishes – all deteriorated finishes is also removed at this wet stage in conjunction with above 1]; taking advantage of the fact that the leather structure is stronger and the finishes is weaker; avoiding the need to use solvent products for stripping them off; with a combinations of removal tools like – Razor-60 > Wet sanding with 800/1500 grit; to avoid building the new color coating on a weak foundation.

3] Leather rejuvenation – with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 is highly recommended to soften the leather up with suppleness and strength.

4] The repairs is done to the overstretch leather structure with Impregnator-26 to seal and strengthen them with even absorbency for the Adhesor-73 and the color coat.

5] Color coating is refinished with Pigment Micro-54 system with Thickener-48 as the flow controller; and the Whites may be shade with a few percentage of Black and hue with Ochre to match you original off-white – see the color range.

6] Topcoat is with matching Micro Topcoat-72S (satin).

7] Non-stick rub-resistant protector that matches the leather type is Leather Scent-B.

You can browse through these above mentioned products in this link:
http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360

Here's the leather care kit that matches your leather type.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Semi-AnilineKit.jpg
Leather Doctor® Semi-Aniline Leather Care Kit-SA3


How do you want to go from here?

Roger Koh
[email protected]

ckapec
05-04-2011, 06:58 AM
hi, Roger,
many thanks for your reply. What I want mostly is to remove the damaged finish, smooth it out, and make the leather as soft and pliable as I can given that the couch is probably not very high-end. Could I skip the clean-rinse stage by just cleaning it with a gentle mix of Ivory dishwashing liquid and water, and go straight to the razor-60/sandpaper stage, then do the rejuvenation. would I have to strip the entire couch's fnish? I'm a little worried about the color matching; how could I match the colors? (I'm no artist). I should mention that the cushions do not come out and I can find no area where I could send a swatch or even look at the back of the leather. Awaiting your response. I will send a separate email asking for prices since I don't want to spend more on the repairs than I spent on the couch!

Roger Koh
05-04-2011, 09:32 AM
I don't want to spend more on the repairs than I spent on the couch!

Let me know how much you want to spend and I’ll help you with the best option for a quick fix.

ckapec
05-04-2011, 10:04 AM
Thanks for the price list. the first question is, can I get by with the 250 ml (smallest amount, least price) of most of the products or do I need the quart size?
Can I get by with just sandpaper to remove the crumbled topcoat or do I need the razor-60 (can I just use a razor blade carefully?)?
I don't really care about the satin top-coat. I do want the leather-scent for protection.

The big question is the color. Obviously I need to cover over all the grey flaking areas. Do I really need all three, the adhesor, micro-54 and the thickener-48?
thanks for the clarifications.

Roger Koh
05-04-2011, 12:57 PM
Thanks for the price list. the first question is, can I get by with the 250 ml (smallest amount, least price) of most of the products or do I need the quart size?
It would be good to start off with the Kit-SA3 and having the smallest size of recommended products as add-on to try it out with the worst conditioned cushion first; from there you would know how much would be needed for the remainder. Take note that the weak exposed areas is going to suck-in most of the products; unlike other areas that they stay on top and can be easily spread out to cover more areas.


Can I get by with just sandpaper to remove the crumbled topcoat or do I need the razor-60 (can I just use a razor blade carefully?)?
For a minimum color restoration you are not going to remove too much of the existing colorcoat; just sand to smoothen the rough edges; do not try any razor at all.


I don't really care about the satin top-coat. I do want the leather-scent for protection.
Topcoat protects the colorcoat as a system; and the rub-resistant protector protects the topcoat.


The big question is the color. Obviously I need to cover over all the grey flaking areas. Do I really need all three, the adhesor, micro-54 and the thickener-48?
Thickener-48 is not required as you are not going to spray them. The color repair is only to the crack areas with standard watercolor brushes. This is the minimum touch-up repairs. So the restorative cleaning with Prep-7.7 is very important; otherwise you may not get the true original color to do the color matching from. This color looks off-white, grey would be just black and white, normally a third color Ochre is involved in these shade; you never know until you match it.


Post some more better pictures so we can assess where we should prioritise our attention for a better approach.

Roger Koh
05-04-2011, 01:00 PM
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Micro-Pigment12.jpg
Semi-Aniline Leather Coloring System (12)

Leather Doctor® Pigment Micro-54
It’s micro-pigment for semi-aniline leathers.
It's an aqueous soft compact resin blend high performance pigment color; strong against UV light than standard pigment.
Standard colors available in Black-512, White-505, Tan-586, Ochre-584, Maroon-502, Yellow-526, Orange-504, Red-554 and Blue-540.
Instruction:
1] Prep clean - use Prep-7.7 follows by Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] Leather rejuvenation – use Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
3] Strengthen weak and worn areas - use Impregnator-26
4] Ensure adhesion - use Adhesor-73.
5] Control flow and color stability - use Thickener-48.
6] Ensure anchorage – pad first coat avoiding streaking for better penetration.
7] Ensure uniformity - fine spray and allow in-between drying with subsequent light coat.
8] Topcoat protection - use Topcoat Micro-72 Gloss, Matte or Satin.

Leather Doctor® Topcoat Micro-72Gloss/Satin/Matte
It’s available in G gloss, S satin and M Matte finish for Micro-Pigmented, Semi-Aniline leathers.
This micro-pigment topcoat is an aqueous soft polyurethane leather topcoat.
It is lightfast and non-yellowing.
It has excellent flow and leveling properties.
Recoatable and forms a flexible film coat.
It gives good performing results when used for fine semi-aniline effects.
Instruction:
1] Apply after color coat otherwise prep clean - use Prep-7.7 follows with Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] Satin finish - mix Matte with Gloss.
3] Fine spray evenly a panel at a time for even coverage avoiding drips and spits.
4] Buttery-feel, non-stick rub-resistant protection with a classic leather scent - use leather Scent-B.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Auxiliary3-1.jpg
Leather Dyeing & Coloring Auxiliary (3)

Leather Doctor® Adhesor-73
It’s an auxiliary for Pigmented and Aniline leathers refinishing.
This is an aqueous compact resin adhesion promoter to ensure proper adhesion prior to color coating.
Note:
Strip clean of foreign contamination prior to application – use Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 or equivalent.
Instruction:
1] Shake well, hand padding preferred to ensure better anchorage for non-absorbent leathers.
2] Fine airbrushing for absorbent leathers to reduce patchiness.
3] Let dry naturally or speed dry with blow dryer.
3] Proceed with choice of further coating.



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Repairer5.jpg
Leather Repairer (5)

Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26
It’s a Leather Surface Repairer for Pigmented and Aniline leather types.
This is a protein compact resin blend compound impregnator.
It’s for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks.
It’s to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process.
It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.
Note:
For color skin repairs add colors accordingly up to ratio 1: 1.
Instruction:
1] Shake well, pad to saturate all weak and absorbent areas.
2] Concentrate on weak areas otherwise wipe off unnecessary excess to reduce buildup.

ckapec
05-16-2011, 06:11 AM
sorry for the delay. Life has been crazy. Here is another picture of the arm of the couch:
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc448/ckapec/arrm2.jpg
and one of the back:
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc448/ckapec/couchback.jpg
and another of the seat:
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc448/ckapec/samechair.jpg

The seat seems to be wearing more; maybe because my daugher is home from school and is using it a lot, so the refinishing of the wearing finish may be more extensive than I thought. Anyway, I'm ready for the first step, the cleaning and conditioning/fatliquoring. So if you would, send me a paypal invoice for those ingredients and I look forward to your advice as I start.
-cheryl