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View Full Version : Dye Transfer on White & Blue Leather Seats in this Brand New 2011 Dodge Challenger SRT8 392 Inaugural Edition!



Fusion
02-28-2011, 08:57 AM
Hello!

I have a brand new 2011 Dodge Challenger SRT8 392 Inaugural Edition with white and blue leather seats, and from the dealership the driver's seat already had what looked like some dye transfer on it. Since then, I've mistakenly worn a brand new black jacket (unwashed) while driving it, plus there's been a little bit of transfer from some older blue jeans (previously washed several times).

Roger, which of your products should I use to correct this problem? (I'm guessing Prep 7.7, Cleaner 3.8, Rinse 3.0, and Leather Scent B?)

EDIT: How do I know which type of leather these seats are? They have a non-glossy, matte finish.

Is there any special care I need to take, since the seats have two different colors of leather (white and blue)? I'm assuming the original factory dyes will remain intact and I don't have to worry about anything with your products.

Also, for preventing vertical run-off during the dwell process, does ordinary kitchen cling wrap work well enough?

Finally, what can I do to prevent further dye transfers or make further staining much easier to clean? I want to keep these seats clean for a long time.

In the photos below, disregard any pink hue -- it's reflected light from a red car nearby. I had to increase the brightness on these photos a lot, so that may have brought out more of the reflected red. The seats are actually perfectly white except for the slight blue dye discoloration.

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc387/Fusion392/Challenger_392_Seat01_Before.jpg

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc387/Fusion392/Challenger_392_Seat02_Before.jpg

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc387/Fusion392/Challenger_392_Seat03_Before.jpg

Roger Koh
02-28-2011, 12:26 PM
Roger, which of your products should I use to correct this problem? (I'm guessing Prep 7.7, Cleaner 3.8, Rinse 3.0, and Leather Scent B?)

You’re right on…the Hydrator-3.3 and the Fatliquor-5.0 is only to treat the weak construction lines of the needle holes and seams; unlike the coated surface, these lines when wet and dry again will stiff up and when flex will crack between the seam and the stitching lines. Hydrator-3.3 is to relax the leather-structure and separate the stick together fibers; Fatliquor-5.0 is to keep the leather in these treated lines soft, supple and strong; thus preventing it from premature stiffness and cracking, often seen in cars after a period of time, it’s sooner or later without this periodic treatment. Whenever stiffness that leads to cracking for non-absorbent leathers, it will start at these weak construction lines, especially beginning from the driver’s seat.

EDIT: How do I know which type of leather these seats are? They have a non-glossy, matte finish.

From pictures the color white and blue we see are coated with micron layer of pigment, so they are known as pigmented leathers. These color pigments are protected by a typical aqueous soft polyurethane, lightfast, non-yellowing and flexible film-forming topcoat. An option to repair the topcoat is recommended only at the 4th-Cycle of the Leather-Safe Maintenance System.

Is there any special care I need to take, since the seats have two different colors of leather (white and blue)? I'm assuming the original factory dyes will remain intact and I don't have to worry about anything with your products.

A leather-safe system when used accordingly to the system instruction will mean that it will be safe to the colorcoat and topcoat.

Also, for preventing vertical run-off during the dwell process, does ordinary kitchen cling wrap work well enough?

Yes, those kitchens see-thru food cling wrap is recommended.

Finally, what can I do to prevent further dye transfers or make further staining much easier to clean? I want to keep these seats clean for a long time.

See description on Leather Scent-B…a non-stick, rub-resistant protector.

In the photos below, disregard any pink hue -- it's reflected light from a red car nearby. I had to increase the brightness on these photos a lot, so that may have brought out more of the reflected red. The seats are actually perfectly white except for the slight blue dye discoloration.

This Advanced Auto Pigmented Leather-Safe Maintenance System described below may keep your white always white.

You may want to have a close shot on the logo 392, the needle holes are the weak points where the Hydrator-3.3 and the Fatliquor-5.0 comes into play besides the other weak construction needle lines and seams.


The Bleach-10.3 and the d'Tarnish-1.3 in this Kit-PIS5 although developed as the last resort for dye stains removal for pigmented leathers is seldom used, when the potential effectiveness of the Prep-7.7 is fully realized.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Kit-PISs.jpg
Leather Doctor® Pigmented Leather Ink and Dye Stain Removal Kit-PIS5


Contents:
Bleach-10.3 – 30gm
d’Tarnish-1.3 – 60ml
Prep-7.7 – 60ml
Cleaner-3.8 – 250ml
Acidifier-2.0 – 250ml
Leather Scent-B – 120ml
Leather (horsehair) Brush-1 – 1pc
3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
Washable Rags – 5pcs


Email [email protected] for prices.


This is the recommended Kit-AP3 instead...



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/AutoPigmentedKit-AP3.jpg
Leather Doctor® Kit-AP3
Contents:
Prep-7.7 - 60ml
Cleaner-3.8 - 250ml
Rinse-3.0 - 250ml
Hydrator-3.3 - 250ml
Fatliquor-5.0 - 250ml
Leather Scent-B - 120ml
Leather Scent-D - 120ml
Leather Brush-1 (horsehair) - 1pc
3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
Washable Rags - 10pcs
Individual refill available in larger package or concentrates
Email for details: [email protected]


These kit’s seven products are thoughtfully selected; not only to keep the leather hygienically clean at all times; but to further enhance the fascinating attraction of leather; the appearance that’s aesthetically pleasing to the eyes; the pleasure of a natural smooth buttery-feel when it’s caressed; the unforgettable classic leather scent that charms both man and woman through the ages. However, leather seats are also design to be sat on; that calls for this understanding of maintaining its characteristic uniqueness of softness, suppleness and strength; otherwise premature ageing with dryness stiffen the leather and when compressed, stretched or flexed cracks it.

Prep-7.7
This is a pH 7.7 aqueous high viscosity leather preparatory cleaner for Pigmented leather types. It’s developed to strip foreign soil accumulation to its original finish. It works by dwell-time allowing its superior penetrating, lubricating and suspending power to do its work. Besides it's also used in the leather-safe dye and ink stains removal for: Grease based ink stains like ballpoint ink. Water based ink stains like stamp pad ink. Dye transfer stains like blue jeans, leather, ink print and newsprint. It is highly recommended that the remaining sticky residue is thereafter removed in conjunction with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 as a holistic leather-safe.

Cleaner-3.8
This is a pH 3.8 all purpose leather-safe anionic cleaner that is particularly effective in emulsifying oily soils and in suspending particulates. It works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling safely and effectively through gentle chemical reaction; working in perfect harmony with all leather constituents that include the tanning agent, preservative, dyestuff and especially the fatliquor. It's for all leather types including: Pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck and Suede.

Rinse-3.0
This is a pH 3.0 aqueous leather-safe rinse to neutralize harmful alkaline and perspiration residues; for stabilizing and strengthening leather constituent pH chemistry integrity. It's for Pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck and Suede leather types.

Hydrator-3.3
This is a pH 3.3 aqueous leather-safe hydrator. It’s for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers (to separates the crushed, stick together fibrils and relax them) prior to strengthening and softening with Fatliquor-5.0. And it’s also used for facilitating colloidal water movement within the leather structure capillary motion during the wicking process. That will cause suspended soil particulates to be moved to the leather surface to be extracted with absorbent towel while damp and erase with Leather Eraser-4 when dry. It’s for all leather types including: Pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on-Hide and Woolskin.

Fatliquor-5.0
This is a pH 5.0 anionic charged micro emulsion fatliquor leather rejuvenator. It’s for replenishing original fatliquor that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure or cleaning. It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying they will be capable of sliding over one another smoothly. Besides softening the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility; fatliquor enhances its rip tensile strength greatly. Relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles to provide drapes, suppleness and prevents cracking. It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. It’s for all leather types including: Pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on-Hide and Woolskin.
A Fatliquor video by Discovery Channel: http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/28309-dirty-jobs-fat-liquor-video.htm

Leather Scent-B
It’s a tactile buttery-feel for Pigmented and Aniline leather seats. This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural buttery-feel with a classic leather scent. It’s for imparting a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink. And for helping to release those tenacious dye-transfers stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather is rubbed against during movement. Or friction that wears the leather finishes caused by getting in and out of auto.

Leather Scent-D
It’s a tactile draggy-feel for Steering Wheel. This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub-resistant protector that enhances a draggy-feel with a classic leather scent. It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink. And it does help to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing. Its natural draggy-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. It is also used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance. The drag produces an unforgettable familiar sound sweet to the ears when leather is rubbed.



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/AutoPigmented-PSG1.jpg
A leather-safe Problem Solving Guide-AP9 for Auto Pigmented Leathers


Advanced Auto Leather-Safe Maintenance System

1st-Cycle
Step 1: Start new leather Preventive Maintenance with a Non-stick & Rub-resistant Protector.
This initial preventive measure for new car is to ensure that the topcoat is first protected against the detrimental effect of sticky soiling, including dye transfer from clothing and against the wearing out from sliding in and out of car. Scent-B is recommended for the seats to impart with a natural smooth buttery-feel; while else Scent-D is recommended for steering wheel and gear shift knob imparting with a natural draggy-feel for a safer anti-slip grip; both enriching the senses with the unforgettable classic leather scent. These odorless versions are also available as Buttery Feel-76 and Draggy Feel-79. Optional to the tactile feel is also available in waxy and silky feel; both infused with leather scent or come as odorless.
This sequence of non-stick, rub-resistant topcoat protection is performed by first cleaning with a leather-safe pH 3.8 cleaner, follows by a pH 3.0 rinse, then protected with the Scent-B/D when dry, thus: Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Leather Scent-B/D.

Step 2: Neutralization for pH Control.
This pH neutralizing preventive measures is recommended to control sweaty body contact, which may contain traces of urea from shifting alkaline by the natural bacteria from the environment. Resulting is tackiness to the leather surface when dry and sliminess when wet from alkaline over exposure.
This sequence of pH neutralizing is first performed by towel rinse with a leather-safe pH 3.0 rinse that imparts a momentarily refreshing fragrance, then follows with Scent-B/D protector when dry, thus: Rinse-3.0 > Leather Scent-B/D.

Step 3: Sanitization for Odor Control (optional Sanitizer-3.9 as an add-on).
This sanitizing routine preventive maintenance or as needed after a sweaty ride is to control the activities of the odor causing bacteria from attacking the sweaty surface contamination hygienically clean and odor free.
This sequence of odor controlling is performed by first appllying with a leather-safe pH 3.9 sanitizer and towel off to dry, thereafter with Scent-B/D, thus: Sanitizer-3.9 > Leather Scent-B/D.

2nd-Cycle
Step 4: Periodic Maintenance.
This will be a repeat similar to Step 1, on a quarterly to a half-yearly basis depending on usage. It’s then followed by Step 2 and 3 similar to 1st-Cycle.

3rd-Cycle
Step 5: Restorative Cleaning
This recommended yearly to 2-yearly restorative cleaning cycle is necessary to remove all foreign contaminated residues, including the age-old, build-up of protector if any; stripping it down to its original OEM leather topcoat. It’s to prevent surface build-up that may distort the original aesthetic and tactile-feel characteristics of the leather. This sequence of restorative cleaning is performed by using a pH 7.7 leather prep to do the delicate chemical reaction of penetrating, lubricating and suspending foreign surface contamination, with its ability to slowly dwell it out safely. It is then followed by the removal of its sticky residue with the leather-safe pH 3.8 cleaner and rinsing with a pH 3.0 rinse to a healthy squeaky clean. It is also the time cycle to look at the beautiful but weak perforated panels, including those needle holes and seams. These weak areas unlike the protected surface are vulnerable to absorbing cleaning solution, that when wet and dry again may cause stiffness to the leather, and when compress, stretch or flex may result in premature cracks. A leather-structure preventive maintenance is to keep these weak areas perpetually soft and supple by rejuvenating it. Rejuvenation involves a leather-safe pH 3.3 hydrator to relax the stick together fibrils, separating them to prepare for effective fatliquoring; besides it’s to purge penetrated foreign contamination by the wicking process and balance the chemistry integrity within the thickness of the leather structure. Fatliquor is derived from specially ionic charged natural fat, oil and water use in tannery worldwide. The tannery leather moisture content when dry to the touch has an average of 14% and it’s mainly derived from this fatliquor - the life-blood of leathers. The main function of the fatliquor is to lubricate these leather fibrils acting like millions of interconnecting hinges, so that they can slide over one another smoothly without breaking with softness, suppleness and strength; thus prevents premature ageing to the leather from dryness, stiffness and cracking.
This process follows in this sequence: Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Leather Scent-D. This 3rd-Cycle will be continued by Steps 2, 3 and 4 and the cycles go on.

4th-Cycle
Step 6: Topcoat Repair (optional Topcoat Micro-72 Gloss/Satin/Matte as an add-on)
The objective of the topcoat is to impart a film forming coating that provides abrasion and stain resistance to the colorcoat. It is this topcoat that decides its desired luster of gloss, satin or matte. Without this topcoat, the color basecoat would be: a) poor in aesthetics such as appearance and feel; b) susceptible to sticking together or attracting loose dust and dye especially in hot humid climate region; c) poor physical properties such as wet rub, sweat resistant and scuff resistant; d) poor in ageing properties such as soil resistant and wet cleaning resistant. It may be desirable to repair the topcoat especially to the heavy wear areas especially to the two front seats.
This process follows in this sequence: Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Topcoat Micro-72 gloss/satin/matte > Leather Scent-B. This 4th-Cycle will be continued by Steps 2, 3 and 4 and the cycles go on.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

Fusion
03-25-2011, 07:29 AM
Just wanted to include an update to let you know that the kit worked like a charm.

All of the dye stains came out, and the leather looks perfect! (And the rub resistance protector -- Leather Scent B -- smells amazing.)

Thanks so much, Roger! I'll post some "after" pictures if I get a chance to take some this weekend. :)

Roger Koh
03-25-2011, 10:22 AM
Certainly like to see some pictures!

Did you use some cling wrapper for the vertical areas from preventing the Prep-7.7 from dripping down?

Fusion
03-25-2011, 05:32 PM
Yes, the cling wrap really helped to keep everything in place. I left the Prep 7.7 for about 8 hours to work its magic. When I came back to check on the seats, I could see that the stains had floated out!

The rest was easy.