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pristine
01-24-2011, 01:25 PM
These cushions were brought to me from a property manager who said her client's home had a roof that leaked on the newly reupholstered sofa. I saw the Thread for a sewer loss. What are the proper steps for water loss. I don't know what the white line is from.:confused:

#1
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/Water%20Damaged%20Aniline/100_0751.jpg


#2
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/Water%20Damaged%20Aniline/100_0752.jpg

Roger Koh
01-24-2011, 06:34 PM
Assessment:
The only information we have that cause this damage is from a leaking roof.

Evaluation:
What could the damage be depends on what’s in the water and how best to restore it to pre-damaged condition.

Categories of Water in Water Damage:
We can categorize it as a “Clean Water” damage that may not pose discomfort or sickness when salvaged cushion is thereafter exposed to humans. However when clean water contact structural surfaces it may dissolved and becomes contaminated that causes stain to the leather; wood and metal derive stains are common in this type of water damage.

Stains Identification:
1] White Lines – these could be from the fugitive fatliquor.
2] Dark Lines – these could be from the leather constituents like the tanning agent and dyestuff; possible from contaminated water that contains cellulose tanning and/or metal tarnish.
3] Darken Water Damage Areas – same as 2]
4] Rings – same as 2]
5] Scratches - pre-existing condition

pH Phenomenal:
The pH of leather averages between 3 and 5; when contaminated water becomes alkaline; the alkalinity in the solution will shift the protein fiber anionic (-) from its original (+) ionic charge; thus repelling the hydrogen-bonding of the other leather constituent that is also anionic in nature; behaving like magnet – “like poles repel”. Resulting from staining by these fugitive leather constituents; from within the leather structure itself.

Tannin & Tarnish Stains:
All coloring that derives from vegetation and plants ranges from yellowing to dark brown. Likewise metallic stain may range from rust to brass tarnish color.

Remedies:

1] Acidification:
To acidify the leather protein fiber back to its cationic positive charge use Acidifier-2.0 to trail all those contaminated areas through its thickness – extract until towel shows clean and may require a cling wrapping dwell until the stain areas is well saturated to prevent evaporation.

2] Hydration:
To redistribute the leather structure contamination and evenly hydrate the entire leather structure; purging all foreign contamination at the same time in the wicking process to extract with terry towel until towel is clean; to produce an even appearance through the hydrating overnight with tight tissue layer to trap wick-up stains under cling wrapping to reduce evaporation. Product recommended Hydrator-3.3

3] Foreign Stains from Cellulose or Metal:
Remaining stains to be further treated with d’Tannin-3.5; follows with d’Tarnish-1.3.

The above 3 steps is best done while the leather is in a damp condition; and only when the appearance is without color variation or stains present that it is allow to have its natural drying process to take place; recommended to extract at interval to extract any staining that is wicking up.

4] Leather Rejuvenating:
When the stains are gone; it’s time to rehydrate with Hydrator-3.3 prior to fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0 to return the leather to its original suppleness.

5] Scratch Rectification:
Refinish with Topcoat Micro-72S (satin) with in-between fine sanding with 1500grit will eliminate those whitish scratches.

Pictures of recommended products:



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LeatherSpecialtyCleaner7.jpg
Leather Specialty Cleaner (7)
Acidifier-2.0 as seen from this Specialty Cleaner range of 7.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LeatherSpecialtyRemover8.jpg
Leather Specialty Remover (8)
d’Tannin-3.5 and d’Tarnish-1.3 as seen from this Specialty Remover range of 8.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Rejuvenator5.jpg
Leather Rejuvenating Conditioner (5)
Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 as seen from this Rejuvenator range of 5.


http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Micro-Pigment12.jpg
Semi-Aniline Leather Coloring System (12)
Topcoat Micro-72S (satin) as seen from this Micro Pigment system


Questions are welcome!


Roger Koh
[email protected]

pristine
02-09-2011, 11:33 AM
I completed pH balancing & rehydration. MUCH BETTER the dark rings went away. Still though can see & feel a line where the main water mark was. Do I go on to fatiquor or do I repeat step 1 or 2?


#1
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/Water%20Damaged%20Aniline/WaterDamagedLeather4.jpg

#2
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/Water%20Damaged%20Aniline/WaterDamagedLeather3.jpg

#3
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/Water%20Damaged%20Aniline/WaterDamagedLeather5.jpg



Also I don't want to use Micro Top Coat. This is the softest aniline I have ever felt, almost like a nubuck. The client claims its worth $50,000.

Roger Koh
02-09-2011, 02:12 PM
I completed pH balancing & rehydration. MUCH BETTER the dark rings went away. Still though can see & feel a line where the main water mark was. Do I go on to fatiquor or do I repeat step 1 or 2?

Is there a zip to this cushion?
Seems it would be easier to work from the reverse side as I believe you could also see the stain lines…as the stain is cross-sectional into the leather structure…repeat the Hydration until it is all evenly before the fatliquoring.

Here are the tips.
If it’s zipped, remove the leather cover…wrapped the cushion with a plastic trash bag…put back leather in place with the suede inside out…and work on it accordingly as 2] Hydration above:

The difference now is, you can squeeze out or wet vacuum it over a dry towel the contamination along the line without hurting the leather finish…and try to move the liquid content from the unaffected area into the contaminated area; extract from there to help balance out the leather chemistry within the leather.

Show us some pictures of the stain lines before you hydrated it…I may have further tips…


Also I don't want to use Micro Top Coat. This is the softest aniline I have ever felt, almost like a nubuck. The client claims its worth $50,000.

If this is Pure-Aniline use this to repair the scuff in picture #3 and feather out.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/AnilineNatural60ml.jpg
Leather DoctorŽ Topcoat Aniline-89N
It’s a natural finish for Pure-Aniline leathers. This is an aqueous formulation topcoat to improve wet rub fastness and reduces bleeding.
Instruction:
1] Padding or airbrushing; avoiding streaks or drips.
2] Let dry between coats.
3] Impart a silky-feel, non-stick protection with a classic leather scent - use leather Scent-S.


And use this as the non-stick, rub-resistant protector…to impart a silky feel as what is recommended for nubuck too; for the odorless version use Silky Feel-43.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/LeatherScent-S.jpg

Leather Scent-S
It’s a tactile silky-feel for Pure-Aniline, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-On-Hide and Woolskin leather types. This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub-resistant protector that enhances a natural silky-feel with a classic leather scent. It imparts a non-stick surface essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink. And it does help to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing. Its natural silky-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather is rubbed against during movement.


Roger Koh
[email protected]