Yes, I would be satisfied with the above example. Could we retore to a finish other than a gloss? The chairs were initially not shiny. At least not as my minds eye remembers them. I think the sample fabric which is underneath the seat cushion is representative of original patina.
You have three topcoats to choose from or inter-mixed them to get the right sheen and feel; besides the protector matches the topcoat to enhance the feel as well; the only way to determine is to try it out on the swatch that you have, thus:
Topcoat Aniline-89N
It’s a natural finish for Pure-Aniline.
This is an aqueous formulation aniline topcoat to protect aniline leathers naturally.
It improves wet rub fastness and reduces bleeding.
The matching protector is Leather Scent-S – to impart a silky-feel, non-stick protection with a classic leather scent.
Topcoat Aniline-59M
It’s a waxy-matte finish for upholstery aniline leathers.
This is an aqueous fine particular size compact resin waxy-matte topcoat.
It’s to protect aniline dyestuff with better wet rub fastness.
The matching protector is Leather Scent-W – to impart a waxy-feel, non-stick, rub-resistance protection with a classic leather scent.
Topcoat Aniline-79G
It’s a gloss finish for upholstery Aniline leathers.
This is an aqueous fine particular size urethane resin emulsion topcoat.
It’s to protect aniline dyestuff with excellent toughness and flexibility.
The matching protector is Leather Scent-B – to impart a buttery-feel, non-stick, rub-resistance protection with a classic leather scent.
So if I understand you correctly, rather than "re-dye" the chair we will undergo a process that pulls existing color from within the leather to the surface? Is that correct?
This reactivating the dyes is similar to (putting water to tea leaves); and here the water is using Hydrator-3.3 as the dyes are already in the leather structure. The thickness of the leather need to be soaked up and wrapped-up to prevent unnecessary evaporation for a day or two to activate it; thereafter when the wrapping is removed; through the natural wicking process the dyestuff moves to the surface and re-freshen it. Fatliquoring will saturate the color intensity with its fats and oils naturally. When the Hydrator-3.3 works in conjunction with the Fatliquor-5.0; not only that the thickness of the leather is relaxed from overstretching (the excess ripples from the back cushion will taut-up and disappear); the color will also freshen up. When the surface is evenly dry-prep and re-topcoated; it will give another kick-up to the beauty of depth. Sounds so unbelievable!
Does the Top Coat Aniline 79G offer a level of protection?
Among the three 79G gives the toughest protection, follow by 59M and 89N almost naked pureness with the best in breathability and leather inherent characteristics.
Once done is there a maintenance regime to prevent this from happening again?
Perspiration is the unknown culprit that will eventually wrack the leather. The ingredient is the traces of urea that when ferment from the natural bacteria found in the atmosphere turns alkaline; easily detect with the smell of ammonia. Ammonia is alkaline or base; and when the protein fiber is basified it shift anionic; that repels or break hydrogen-bond with the leather constituent especially the fatliquor – fatliquor is the life-blood of leather; and healthy leathers should have averaging 14% of it; to keep it perpetually soft, strong and supple.
Thus, the routine maintenance is simply rinsing those body contact areas with Rinse-3.0 to neutralize the possibility of perspiration contamination.
Periodic maintenance to remove oil and grease requires Cleaner-3.8 (pH 3.8) follows with Rinse-3.0 (pH 3.0).
Thereafter matching protector both for non-stick and rub-resistance is recommended to prolong the wear to the topcoating.
Leather rejuvenating may take a bigger cycle of 1 to 3 years depending on the humidity of the surrounding, near to heat source or direct sunlight or you may like to add-on once the leather is wet from cleaning. Leather when wet and dry again will feel stiffer as the fibrils becomes stick together during the wicking process - it is recommended that it should be fatliquored to prevent the fibrils to becomes stick together during the drying process. This phenomenal is known as the "Van der Waal Forces" or "London Forces".
The more you know, the more you yet to know!
Keep-on asking!
Roger Koh
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