First Post and My Project Details of a 2008 BMW M3 Coupe with the Black Novillo Leather!

[ajvee]

Hello,

I joined this website to learn more about leather cleaning and restoration so that I can keep my car's leather seats in good condition.

I have a 2008 M3 coupe with the black novillo leather. The car has 25k miles and there are a couple of issues with the leather that I would like to possibly address and correct.

1) With use, the leather covered steering wheel has become shiny. I would like to restore it to its original matte condition. The same is true of the bolster on the driver's seat. I would like to restore the bolster to its original matte finish.

2) On the driver's seat bolster, a couple of white spots are emerging which I believe are wear scratches from pants constantly rubbing on them while getting in and out of the car. Though these are small and barely noticeable to others, I would like to restore them to the orginal condition. I would anticipate that this would take some type of dye or re-colour. I will update the post with some pictures in a couple of weeks.

3) Finally, the driver's seat is starting to develop wrinkles which I've read to be the leather basically drying over time. I would like to correct this as well.

As far as products are considered, I've been using the BMW leather conditioner kit which is basically a rub in conditioner. I believe I will need more specialized products to address my issues.

I will update the thread with some pictures and hope to document the restoration process within the thread s well. :D

[Roger Koh]

Welcome to the forum and at the end of the day let us know if it does help?

1) With use, the leather covered steering wheel has become shiny. I would like to restore it to its original matte condition. The same is true of the bolster on the driver's seat. I would like to restore the bolster to its original matte finish.

The build-up of shine needless to say comes from hand perspiration besides other soiling.
It would have a combination of body oil; urea and other soiling transfer rub off.
Particularly it is the urea traces from our perspiration that when ferments off gas ammonia smell.
When ammonia smell is detected, it means that the pH of the urea have shifted to 11.
The average pH of leather “structure” is between 3 and 5; however the “finish” (comprises of the colorcoat and topcoat) when read with a pH meter may gives a reading of between 5 and 6.
It is this pH value difference that is both damaging to the finish and to the structure than any other types of soiling.
To restore to its original matte condition requires the soiling contamination to be stripped down to its original OEM finish; re-topcoat (a choice of gloss, satin or matte) to protected the color coat.
During the wet cleaning, when it is observed that the leather is absorbent; then it is recommended that the leather structure is hydrated and fatliquored to replenish original diminished fatliquor (fat, oil & water; fatliquor is the life-blood of leather; it is this fatliquor that provides softness, strength to the leather for its practical usage with suppleness.

Recommended sequence of process:

Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > (Acidifier-2.0) > Topcoat Micro-72M (matte).

Prep-7.7 is the main product to do the stripping down to the original OEM finish; Cleaner-3.8 is to remove all sticky residue; Rinse-3.0 is to ensure the chemistry pH integrity of the finish is right to a squeaky feel; if it remains tacky or slimy due to alkaline urea exposure; then Acidifier-2.0 will further rectify it squeaky (the suffix of the product denotes it’s pH value – alkaline expand and weakens the leather, acid contracts and strengthen it). The topcoat of choice is then reapplies to replace what’s deteriorated or wear-off.

2) On the driver's seat bolster, a couple of white spots are emerging which I believe are wear scratches from pants constantly rubbing on them while getting in and out of the car. Though these are small and barely noticeable to others, I would like to restore them to the orginal condition. I would anticipate that this would take some type of dye or re-colour. I will update the post with some pictures in a couple of weeks.

The recommended colorcoat is using Pigment Micro-54; however Adhesor-73 is also recommended prior to colorcoating to ensure adhesion without the fear of peeling or delaminating.

Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > (Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0) > Adhesor-73 > Pigment Micro-54 > Topcoat Micro-72M (matte) > Leather Scent-B.



3) Finally, the driver's seat is starting to develop wrinkles which I've read to be the leather basically drying over time. I would like to correct this as well.

Recommended rejuvenating system:

Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0


As far as products are considered, I've been using the BMW leather conditioner kit which is basically a rub in conditioner. I believe I will need more specialized products to address my issues.

Prep-7.7 will remove all unwanted aftermarket conditioner entirely, even if it’s the regretted silicone sheen.

I will update the thread with some pictures and hope to document the restoration process within the thread s well


Waiting for your pictures, to discuss further!


Roger Koh
[email protected]

[MJN]

Welcome and will be looking foward to see your progress :D

[ajvee]

Thanks for the responses guys!

Roger - your detailed response certainly reflects your passion for your work.

Any idea on whether both the steering wheel and the seat need to be removed to do the work? I would ideally like to avoid this.

I will try to get pictures posted asap, but likely will not start on the project for 3 weeks or so since I am traveling at the moment.

[Roger Koh]

These pictures show how the steering is strip of foreign contamination down to the original OEM finish.

It's similar doing the strip-cleaning with the seats; however when comes to refinishing you have options.

“Padding” application with the colorcoat would provide better “adhesion”.

“Spraying” application (airbrushing) would provide better “appearance”.

But since the leather is somehow textured with grains (not entire a smooth surface), you can use a dabbing technique (avoiding obvious streaks) all the way through refinishing (Adhesor-73 > Pigment Micro-54 > TopcoatMicro-72S) without removing them out of the car.

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/474.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/481.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/489.jpg

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[ajvee]

Roger that work looks great!

When you say stripped down to OEM finish and a topcoat is applied. Does the topcoat only apply to areas where the original surface has worn off (showing the white underneath)?

The reason I ask is because I would be concerned about being able to colour match the leather with the OEM colour.

[Roger Koh]

Pictures will be better for specific discussion.

Topcoat is only applied to protect the colorcoat.

Worn areas may requires Impregnator-26 prior to colorcoat > topcoat > non-stick rub-resistance protection.

See the product description:

Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26
It’s a Leather Surface Repairer for Pigmented and Aniline leather types.
This is a protein compact resin blend compound impregnator.
It’s for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks.
It’s to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process.
It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.
Note:
For color skin repairs add colors accordingly up to ratio 1: 1.
Instruction:
1] Shake well, pad to saturate all weak and absorbent areas.
2] Concentrate on weak areas otherwise wipe off unnecessary excess to reduce buildup

[ajvee]

I've included some pictures of the areas that I would like to work on. Let me know what would be the best approach.

[Roger Koh]

1) With use, the leather covered steering wheel has become shiny. I would like to restore it to its original matte condition. The same is true of the bolster on the driver's seat. I would like to restore the bolster to its original matte finish.

The earlier recommended sequence of process is as follows:

Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > (Acidifier-2.0) > Topcoat Micro-72M (matte)

The best approach is to strip unwanted conditioner and soiling down to the OEM finish and inspect from there; Prep-7.7 will do the stripping with longer the dwelling time the better the result; Cleaner-3.8 is to clean up remaining sticky residue; Rinse-3.0 is to acidify rinse the finish to a healthy squeak; if the steering wheel remains tacky due to alkaline pH exposure Acidifier-2.0 is recommended to neutralize the problem; inspection is to determine the desire appearance of a matte look; otherwise Topcoat Micro-72M (matte) is recommended for the desired matte appearance.


2) On the driver's seat bolster, a couple of white spots are emerging which I believe are wear scratches from pants constantly rubbing on them while getting in and out of the car. Though these are small and barely noticeable to others, I would like to restore them to the orginal condition. I would anticipate that this would take some type of dye or re-colour. I will update the post with some pictures in a couple of weeks.

From the pictures, it’s unable to detect the couple of white spots you mention above.

Here is the link to post better pictures:
http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148



3) Finally, the driver's seat is starting to develop wrinkles which I've read to be the leather basically drying over time. I would like to correct this as well.

Recommended rejuvenating system:

Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0
The approach to leather structure rejuvenating will require a hydrating test to determine the absorbency rate of the finish (topcoat and colorcoat); using a soak facial cotton pad with Hydrator-3.3 and placing on the wrinkle area; seal with cling wrapper and leave overnight. An alternative to access to the leather structure is through the needle holes and seams.
Wrinkles can be reduced only once the entire leather structure is hydrated by stretching it crosswise; thereafter fatliquor is introduced by the same technique of saturating absorbent paper rags and sealing it up for effective penetration.
When the leather structure dries; the wrinkles can be further improve by heat treatment the way you iron wrinkles out of fabric; by placing paper between the leather finish and the iron.

[ajvee]

Ok I am back home and am ready to begin the work. Where do I get the products that you mentioned?

I am still concerned about being able to match the original colour and finish of the steering wheel.

Also you didn't mention the topcoat micro for the seats, can I assume that just the hydrator and fatliquor will be sufficient?

I actually opened up the picture with the scratch on it and it seems pretty clear. In any case, I will try to get a better picture.

I look forward to hearing from you.

[ajvee]

Here is another picture of the scratch. Let me know what you think.

[Roger Koh]

Here is the link, how you can post better pictures!

http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148

[Roger Koh]

Ok I am back home and am ready to begin the work. Where do I get the products that you mentioned?

I am still concerned about being able to match the original colour and finish of the steering wheel.

Also you didn't mention the topcoat micro for the seats, can I assume that just the hydrator and fatliquor will be sufficient?

I actually opened up the picture with the scratch on it and it seems pretty clear. In any case, I will try to get a better picture.

I look forward to hearing from you.



This is the kit that you may need with additional color (Pigment Micro-54) add-on as an option.

Email me for prices.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/S250pet-Original.jpg
1. Semi-Aniline Leather Care Kit S250.pet
Contents:
Prep-7.7 - 60ml
Topcoat Micro-72S -60ml
Cleaner-3.8 - 250ml
Rinse-3.0 - 250ml
Leather Scent-B - 120ml
Hydrator-3.3 - 250ml
Fatliquor-5.0 - 250ml
Leather Eraser-4 - 1pc
Leather Brush-1 - 1pc
3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
Washable Rags - 5pcs


Semi-Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/SemiAniline-LPG.jpg

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[Roger Koh]

Here is another picture of the scratch. Let me know what you think.


Touch-up an edge of the scratch with Topcoat Micro-72S using fine watercolor painting brush (#1) a layer at a time between dyring (hairdryer) to see if the color is enhanced by the topcoat; otherwise you know that the colorcoat is missing.

The above is recommended after prep cleaning the entire seat and leather rejuvenated in this sequence of process:

Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Topcoat Micro-72S > Leather Scent-B.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

[ajvee]

Cool, I am quite excited to start this project. Any recommendations on outside temperature when doing this work? My car is stored in a garage, though it is not heated or anything.

[Roger Koh]

We can assume that there are three temperature ranges when comes to cleaning and conditioning leathers; from Cool 5 to 20°C, Warm 20 to 35°C and Hot 35 - 50°C; the most ideal temperature would be in the warm to hot range especially when performing the hydrating and fatliquoring process sometimes with our naked hands.

Nevertheless if the leather fibrous structure is seal with typical finishes that makes it non-absorbent for hydrating prior to fatliquoring; temperature does not help. Penetration would depend on micro finish cracks, needleholes, seams and perforations (punched holes); control evaporation by cling wrapper, dwelling time and effective surfactantcy of the hydrator to precondition the fibrous leather structure prior to fatliquoring it.

A healthy leather should average 15% of fatliquor (fat, oil and water) when completely dry with fullness and suppleness.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[ajvee]

as always good information.

Based on the products that I've purchased, what would be a good bi-weekly maintenance product to keep the leather in good shape? I think I will start a regimen once I get my driver's seat done.

[ajvee]

As an update all of the products have arrived except for the prep 7.7 and the eraser which are both en route.

I wanted to express my gratitude for Roger's amazing customer support. I mistakenly bought a kit that didn't include the prep 7.7 and the eraser. Roger was kind enough to send me the two products with free shipping :D

I really appreciate the amazing customer support Roger. Thank you very much.

[ajvee]

So I've received the entire cleaning kit and decided to test out the products today. I've attached two pictures from my project.

1) The first one is of the steering wheel with the second round of the prep 7.7. The first round removed a lot of grime and shine, but there were still a couple of problem areas, so I decided to re-apply the solution for a longer period of time. As I type this, the steering wheel has been soaking for an hour or so. I intend to leave it for another 4 or 5 hours at least.

2) The second is of the driver's seat with the hydrator. The seat has been soaking for an hour and will soak for another 4 or 5 hours at least well. It will be followed by the fatliquor. I could have sealed up the hydrator with some cling wrap, but I wanted to see if just the surface application will seep into and soften the leather.

[Roger Koh]

Remember that the hydrator "preconditions" the leather - while it is hydrated it will relax and soften the leather but once leave it to dry without fatliquoring it will not stay as soft. Fatliquor will keep the leather soft and strong when dry.
A healthy leather according to tannery standard is up to 15% of moisture content when it is dry.

[ajvee]

Remember that the hydrator "preconditions" the leather - while it is hydrated it will relax and soften the leather but once leave it to dry without fatliquoring it will not stay as soft. Fatliquor will keep the leather soft and strong when dry.
A healthy leather according to tannery standard is up to 15% of moisture content when it is dry.

Roger, according to the instructions on the hydrator, I am supposed to leave the hydrator on the leather for a minimum of 4 hours before applying the fatliquor. Is this accurate?

[ajvee]

Roger,

What is the best way to remove the prep 7.7. I've tried using a dry microfiber towel and I don't feel like it does a good enough job. As a second question, I don't have a neubuck or a suede brush. What is a good way to agitate the cleaner and the rinse following the prep 7.7?

Thanks.

[Roger Koh]

Roger, according to the instructions on the hydrator, I am supposed to leave the hydrator on the leather for a minimum of 4 hours before applying the fatliquor. Is this accurate?

This 4 hours is to doubly sure it does relax the leather.
However in extreme cases it can be cling wrapped and hydrated up to three days with periodic reapplication, to work out the dry creases with the wrapper on (prevent evaporation).

[Roger Koh]

Roger,

What is the best way to remove the prep 7.7. I've tried using a dry microfiber towel and I don't feel like it does a good enough job. As a second question, I don't have a neubuck or a suede brush. What is a good way to agitate the cleaner and the rinse following the prep 7.7?

Thanks.

Use cotton terry towel would do a better job in liquid absorption.
The remaining sticky residue has to be removed with Cleaner-3.8 (horsehair agitation and cotton towel extraction) follows with Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky-feel.

[ajvee]

1) Steering Wheel - The steering wheel had been soaking in prep 7.7 for the past 4 hours. As per Roger's suggestion, I removed the surface residue with a terry towel, followed by the cleaner. WHAT AN AMAZING DIFFERENCE!!!! To my immense surprise, every wipe of the steering wheel resulted in a black/grey, grime filled towel. I am truly surprised at the amount of contaminants in the wheel. I actually went through 3 or 4 spray sessions of the cleaner and I was still getting a dirty towel. I finally followed it up with the rinse and the steering is probably 75% on its way to being new! I would say I was at about 20% prior to starting the project. Since I just applied the fatliquor on the driver's seat, I decided to put on a third coat of prep 7.7 on the steering wheel.

2) Driver's Seat - After a good 4 to 5 hours of hydrator soaking, the seat felt pretty nice and moist. However, the difference was not as marked as is the case with the steering wheel. I've sprayed the seat down with fatliquor and I think the seat is absorbing the solution quite well. I intend to let it soak for an hour or so before I re-visit it.

I will post some update pictures at the end of tonight's session. I am EXTREMELY happy with the products' performance thus far :D.

[ajvee]

So I just checked on the fatliquor and it doesn't seem like the leather is absorbing the fatliquor very well. I have decided to leave the fatliquor on overnight and re-visit it in the morning.

Roger, can you give me some tips on how to remove the excess fatliquor on the surface of the leather? Can I just use the cleaner and the rinse?

[Roger Koh]

1) Steering Wheel - The steering wheel had been soaking in prep 7.7 for the past 4 hours. As per Roger's suggestion, I removed the surface residue with a terry towel, followed by the cleaner. WHAT AN AMAZING DIFFERENCE!!!! To my immense surprise, every wipe of the steering wheel resulted in a black/grey, grime filled towel. I am truly surprised at the amount of contaminants in the wheel. I actually went through 3 or 4 spray sessions of the cleaner and I was still getting a dirty towel. I finally followed it up with the rinse and the steering is probably 75% on its way to being new! I would say I was at about 20% prior to starting the project. Since I just applied the fatliquor on the driver's seat, I decided to put on a third coat of prep 7.7 on the steering wheel.

2) Driver's Seat - After a good 4 to 5 hours of hydrator soaking, the seat felt pretty nice and moist. However, the difference was not as marked as is the case with the steering wheel. I've sprayed the seat down with fatliquor and I think the seat is absorbing the solution quite well. I intend to let it soak for an hour or so before I re-visit it.

I will post some update pictures at the end of tonight's session. I am EXTREMELY happy with the products' performance thus far :D.



Another Tip for your Steering Wheel – Apply the Prep-7.7 sufficiently and use “all purpose food film” or “cling wrapper” to wrapped neatly around it.

Leave it for 2 to 3 days (while you can still use the car); thereafter wipe away the suspended residue and follows with Cleaner-3.8 until towel shows clean then rinse with Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky clean.


The same cling wrapper idea can be applied to the seat during the hydrating dwell time and the fatliquoring dwell time. As the fatliquor disappear into the leather reapply one more time – easier with the 3” foam brush (to avoid overspray). Good if you leave the fatliquor in this situation up to 3 days (while working out the creases at the same time without removing the see-thru wrapper).

[Roger Koh]

So I just checked on the fatliquor and it doesn't seem like the leather is absorbing the fatliquor very well. I have decided to leave the fatliquor on overnight and re-visit it in the morning.

Roger, can you give me some tips on how to remove the excess fatliquor on the surface of the leather? Can I just use the cleaner and the rinse?



If you have decided to leave the fatliquor overnight; it is a good idea to cling wrapped it to fervent evaporation; and to ensure that the fatliquor has only one way to go- into the leather structure.

The excess fatliquor on the surface need not go to waste; it can be reactivated with Hydrator-3.3 and rework into the leather structure – In situation where the leather finish is a barrier, cling wrap it would be a better way to work – as you can still use the car.

[ajvee]

Another Tip for your Steering Wheel – Apply the Prep-7.7 sufficiently and use “all purpose food film” or “cling wrapper” to wrapped neatly around it.

Leave it for 2 to 3 days (while you can still use the car); thereafter wipe away the suspended residue and follows with Cleaner-3.8 until towel shows clean then rinse with Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky clean.


The same cling wrapper idea can be applied to the seat during the hydrating dwell time and the fatliquoring dwell time. As the fatliquor disappear into the leather reapply one more time – easier with the 3” foam brush (to avoid overspray). Good if you leave the fatliquor in this situation up to 3 days (while working out the creases at the same time without removing the see-thru wrapper).

As an update, the steering wheel looks really good today! I wiped off the prep 7.7 and used the cleaner a few times and the towels started to come off pretty clean. The right and bottom areas of the steering wheel look like new, whereas the left and top still show a hint of shine. This is confirmed by the grimy towels. I will follow Roger's advice and wrap the steering wheel in cling wrap following an application of prep 7.7 for a day or so.

The seat looks much the same today as it did last night. It doesn't look like the fatliquor has penetrated the leather at all.

Roger, do you suggest I spray it down with some hydrator and spread it evenly with the foam brush before wrapping it in cling wrap? How do I tackle the specific wrinkle areas?

Thank you.

[MJN]

Don't mean to get in the middle of this and ruin your thread :D just wanted to say sure sounds like comeing along and Roger is sure helping and doing some good work. Just makes me a little worried when I go to try do my seats on how yours is doing with it. Good luck and will continue to read :)

[ajvee]

Don't mean to get in the middle of this and ruin your thread :D just wanted to say sure sounds like comeing along and Roger is sure helping and doing some good work. Just makes me a little worried when I go to try do my seats on how yours is doing with it. Good luck and will continue to read :)

Hey no problem at all!

As an update, the top and right sides of the steering wheel are soaking in prep 7.7 for a 3rd time, but this time wrapped in cling wrap. The steering wheel is basically 90% on its way to being new!

I am not so sure about the seats yet though. As per Roger's instructions, I've re-hydrated the seats using the hydrator and have wrapped the areas with the most wrinkles with cling wrap. The thing that concerns me is that the seat is just as shiny as it started out and it doesn't seem like there is any contaminants or soiling in the surface as I did do a fairly thorough cleaning phase. I will report back same time tomorrow evening on the cling wrap progress.

[Roger Koh]

Thanks for your continuous interest MJN; you shouldn’t be worried as this is a “leather-safe” system; moreover when your turn comes; with this level of help available you will not be on your own.


Ajvee, the shiny seat can be knocked down with the “satin” topcoat that you have; otherwise you can have it in “matte” too!

Do a test by putting a drop of Prep-7.7; cover it up with cling wrapper and leave it there a day or two; wipe off the Prep-7.7, clean with Cleaner-3.8 and let us know of the spot appearance from the non-treated area?


Another tip for the Hydrator-3.3; to hydrate more effectively; lay tissue paper 2-3 layers over the wrinkle area; spray wet and cling wrapped it; and can be spray repeated over in this manner.
To know if the hydrator penetrates, squeeze the leather between finger and thumb to see moisture oozing out from the leather. When the internal leather structure is relaxed and softens up; stretch the creases crosswise.

Allow the leather structure to partially dry prior to Fatliquoring it; using the same tissue paper with cling wrapping technique.


Hope this tissue paper technique makes sense.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

[ajvee]

Thanks for your continuous interest MJN; you shouldn’t be worried as this is a “leather-safe” system; moreover when your turn comes; with this level of help available you will not be on your own.


Ajvee, the shiny seat can be knocked down with the “satin” topcoat that you have; otherwise you can have it in “matte” too!

Do a test by putting a drop of Prep-7.7; cover it up with cling wrapper and leave it there a day or two; wipe off the Prep-7.7, clean with Cleaner-3.8 and let us know of the spot appearance from the non-treated area?


Another tip for the Hydrator-3.3; to hydrate more effectively; lay tissue paper 2-3 layers over the wrinkle area; spray wet and cling wrapped it; and can be spray repeated over in this manner.
To know if the hydrator penetrates, squeeze the leather between finger and thumb to see moisture oozing out from the leather. When the internal leather structure is relaxed and softens up; stretch the creases crosswise.

Allow the leather structure to partially dry prior to Fatliquoring it; using the same tissue paper with cling wrapping technique.


Hope this tissue paper technique makes sense.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

Hey Roger thank you for your inputs

As I type, the driver's seat is soaking in the hydrator solution under cling wrap. Should I remove the cling wrap and test an area with the prep 7.7?

The tissue paper approach definitely makes sense. Can I use toilet paper as well for this?

[Roger Koh]

No testing of the Prep-7.7 in the middle of hydrating. Prep-7.7 should be applied onto a dry surface. Wait until you finish the fatliquoring process - dry, then do the testing. Hindsight, you should have done this test prior to hydrating.

Toilet paper or cotton roll will do, as long as they can hold the liquid to be slowly seeping into the leather structure.

[ajvee]

No testing of the Prep-7.7 in the middle of hydrating. Prep-7.7 should be applied onto a dry surface. Wait until you finish the fatliquoring process - dry, then do the testing. Hindsight, you should have done this test prior to hydrating.

Toilet paper or cotton roll will do, as long as they can hold the liquid to be slowly seeping into the leather structure.


Thanks for the inputs.

So today I will check to see how dry the seat is after 2 days of hydration and fatliquoring. I will definitely post some pictures of the trouble areas today.

If the seat is dry, I will start the Prep 7.7 test with the clingwrap. Once this test is complete, I will apply the tissue paper method with the hydrator for 2 days followed by 2 days of fatliquoring with the tissue paper method.

Does this sound good?

[Roger Koh]

Yes!

Sounds good!


Question
How does the shine come about on the seat, is it due to some product that you applied?

Is it only part of the seat?

You can show us some pictures...

[ajvee]

Roger,

I am not sure on how the shine came about the seat. My guess is that it is a combination of wear and contamination (sweat, etc.). Here is a picture that I posted earlier. You will see that the shine on the entry bolster is far more than the shine on the inside bolster. I've used the BMW leather care kit which is a rub in conditioner that neither helped nor worsened the shine.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/IMG_1069.jpg

Let me know your thoughts

Thanks.

[Roger Koh]

Take a few pictures at different angles; with and without flash; and see if we can solve the mystery!

[Roger Koh]

My guess is that it is a combination of wear and contamination (sweat, etc.).


If the situation is due to accumulation of contamination; why then you can remove from the steering wheel and not from these areas?

If it is shine due to wear - then the cushion should look as shine.

Still puzzled!

[ajvee]

Take a few pictures at different angles; with and without flash; and see if we can solve the mystery!

Will do when I get home today;)

[ajvee]

If the situation is due to accumulation of contamination; why then you can remove from the steering wheel and not from these areas?

I did use the prep 7.7 > cleaner > rinse phase prior to hydration. When I wiped down the seat after the cleaner, I wasn't getting a dirty towel so I assumed that the seat was clean.

[ajvee]

If it is shine due to wear - then the cushion should look as shine.



I don't understand this perfectly.

[ajvee]

As a bit of background, the hydrator/fatliquor mix has been soaking under the cling wrap overnight.

I came today to unfortunately find that there wasn't much improvement. Yes, the leather does feel softer, but there is no improvement in the wrinkles. I tried stretching the leather with my finger, but it did not help.

On a more positive note, I've been using the products on an old glove and the results have been AMAZING! I apologize for not taking before pictures, but here is a picture of the glove after a night of hydration in cling wrap. The thing that is not evident in the pictures is how AMAZINGLY SUPPLE the leather is. I was literally able to smooth out all the wrinkles by running my fingers across them. I've re-wrapped the glove in fatliquor for an overnight soak. I will provide an additional picture tomorrow to show the progress.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/glove1.jpg

Now on to the seats. I also noticed that the seats were not completely dry and perhaps because of the temperature (40 degrees in my garage) the hydrator/fatliquor solution did not dry. I also noticed that it took a fair amount of effort to rub the solution into the leather in the wetter areas.

Anyway, I decided to carry out Roger's test. I picked the shiniest spot on the driver's seat bolster and treated it with prep 7.7 and wrapped it in cling wrap. I left the area below it untreated. This will help me determine if a thorough cleaning phase is effective in reducing shine. I've included a picture of the area, but I really apologize for the bad quality picture as I only had my phone camera handy and the light was terrible in the garage.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/leather1.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/leather2.jpg

I also tested a wrinkled spot on the passenger's seat (completely clean) with hydrator under cling wrap. This will help me compare the leather's suppleness to the progress on the driver's seat.

Roger - I would love to hear any tips/tricks as always.

Thanks.

[Roger Koh]

If you are trying to improve those wrinkles on the last picture; it will not work and remain as it is no matter how soft the leather has improved.

The reason is a fault in the construction; clearer to see in your post #37.

This is the curve, where the alignment and tension is not well coordinated – above the curve is almost perfect without wrinkle.
This strip is a continuous piece of leather and dryness would not be just from this curve section that result in wrinkles but should also be evident on the entire length as well; which is not the case.

Tips:

Use a magnifying glass at least 10X and take a look at the needle hole along the seam; describe to us the shape of the needle holes.

Comparing the upper rolls of holes with the lower rolls of holes; do they look identically the same?

It would be ideal if you can produce a macro shot of these needle holes.

[ajvee]

Roger,

Good morning. I will try to get macro shots of the needle holes either later today or tomorrow.

Regarding the wrinkles, the leather is quite smooth on the other driver's side bolster and the passenger side. There are also a number of small microcracks that don't seem to have anything to do with the construction. I am more concerned about the unsightly shine than the wrinkles. I would first like to have it restored to the matte finish. I hope the prep 7.7 helps in this regard.

[Roger Koh]

Remember to take a shot of the “small micro-cracks” too!

The shine could still be rectified with the Topcoat Micro-72S (satin) that you have, that we have mentioned earlier.

And another option is to use the tactile-feel conditioner “Draggy Feel-79” instead of the “leather Scent-B” to reduce sheen.



http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Tactile-FeelConditioner.jpg
Leather Tactile-Feel Conditioner (8)

Leather Doctor® Draggy Feel-79
It’s for Aniline and Nubuck Wax Pull-up, Bicast, Vachetta, Steering Wheel and Leather Flooring.
This is a non-film forming, non-stick scentless protector that enhances a natural draggy-feel.
It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink.
And it does help to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing.
Its natural draggy-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion.
It is also used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance.
The drag produces an unforgettable familiar sound sweet to the ears when leather rubs.
Instruction:
1] Identify, inspect and dry soil removal before application.
2] Shake well, mist spray and spread evenly with a foam brush.
3] Spray and wipe with absorbent towel for quick easy care.
4] Groom nubuck with nubuckBrush2 for a “finger writing effect”.

Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-B
It’s for Pigmented, Aniline and Nubuck Oil Pull-up leather types.
This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural buttery-feel with a classic leather scent.
It’s for imparting a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink.
And for helping to release those tenacious dye-transfers stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing.
Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion.
And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather is rubbed against during movement.
Or friction that wears the leather finishes caused by getting in and out of auto.
Note:
To reduce sheen and scent add Buttery Feel-76.
Instruction:
1] Identify, inspect and dry soil removal prior to application.
2] Shake well, mist spray and spread evenly with a foam brush.
3] Or spray and wipe with absorbent towel for quick easy care.

[MJN]

Why did they not offer it in cloth is what im thinking right now lol! Deffently still interested in trying the whole process myself also Roger, hoping to get a bit more heat in the garage in a few weeks also to help out with the process and then have some fun :D

Keep up the good work ajvee and I know what you mean about being hard to take some them pics in the garage.

[ajvee]

Why did they not offer it in cloth is what im thinking right now lol! Deffently still interested in trying the whole process myself also Roger, hoping to get a bit more heat in the garage in a few weeks also to help out with the process and then have some fun :D

Keep up the good work ajvee and I know what you mean about being hard to take some them pics in the garage.

I hear you MJN, they've released a cloth seat option for the M3 and I sometimes wish that I got that option.

Strangely enough, I've been enjoying this entire process as it is a good feeling to see it improve and come together. :D

[ajvee]

Today has been full of good news! :D

1) Steering Wheel

I am happy to say the my steering wheel is as good as new. The 2 days of cling wrap soaking really cleaned up the top and left sides of the steering wheel. Without further adieu, here are the pictures:

Right

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/IMG_1084.jpg

Left

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/IMG_1085.jpg

Top

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/IMG_1087.jpg

Bottom

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/IMG_1088.jpg


2) Seat

I am also happy to report that the bolster's overnight soaking in prep 7.7 has resulted in a great reduction in the shine. Unfortunately, the pictures really don't show the results.

Roger - I also noticed that the micro scratches were less evident on the cleaned surface.

Picture showing matte clean surface

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/IMG_1089.jpg

Picture showing shiny uncleaned surface

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/IMG_1090.jpg

I've decided to soak the entire driver's side bolster in prep 7.7 under cling wrap. I was liberal with the prep 7.7;)

Picture showing wrapped bolster

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p135/anvarjv/IMG_1093.jpg

Roger - I know that I promised you pictures of the needle holes and the scratches, but the light conditions in my garage are horrible. I hope to have some for you this weekend in the daylight.

A general apology for the crappy pictures as the light is really crappy in my garage.

[Roger Koh]

I am very confident that the seat would come up as new as your steering wheel.

Tip:
When lay the cling wrapper over the Prep-7.7 - makes sure there is no air bubble or wrinkle of the wrapper; it should lay perfectly flat to produce an even appearance.

Keep up with the good work, I am enjoying your progress too!

[ajvee]

I am very confident that the seat would come up as new as your steering wheel.

Tip:
When lay the cling wrapper over the Prep-7.7 - makes sure there is no air bubble or wrinkle of the wrapper; it should lay perfectly flat to produce an even appearance.

Keep up with the good work, I am enjoying your progress too!

Hey Roger thanks for the note.

Today morning while driving, I noticed that the left side of the steering wheel was still a bit sticky. I am guessing some of the cleaning residue is still on there. Given the cold weather, what would be the best way to remove the rest of it without rubbing the leather too hard? Should I just try multiple rounds of the cleaner followed by the rinse? Any scrubbing tools/techniques? I am nervous about being too hard with the horsehair brush.

Thanks.

[Roger Koh]

There are two possibilities to the stickiness:

1] Residue and suspended contamination after Prep-7.7 not thoroughly removed.
To rectify it, a thorough cleaning is recommended using Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 (to a healthy squeaky clean).
Suggestion: For steering wheel, to avoid overspray; you may want to use the foam brush to apply the Cleaner-3.8 (spray the Cleaner-3.8 onto the foam brush) for better control over the surface especially the seam (just make sure that the foam brush is clean from other products by rinsing under tap water); gently agitate with the horsehair brush and towel absorb the moisture away (this process you will not have a chance of asserting unnecessary physical forces to reduce any wet or dry rubbing) .

2] The leather finish is under alkaline exposure if Rinse-3.0 fails to rectify it.
A thorough dwelling with Rinse-3.0 (using the absorbent paper and cling wrap) as long as you wish will help to neutralize the alkaline problem.

Otherwise, if the stickiness persists – then Acidifier-2.0 at pH value 2.0 may help.

Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0
It's for Pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on-Hide and Woolskin leather types.
This is a pH 2.0 aqueous leather acidifier.
It’s for cationizing the leather protein fibers below its isoelectric point to increase hydrogen bonding with the anionic aniline dyestuff for bleeding control.
Also it’s commonly used to neutralize alkaline exposure that cause marks, streaks, brightness tackiness or sliminess from spills or cleaners.
This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 25.
Thus a 60ml bottle makes 1.64 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 250ml and in Quart.
Concentrate packing sizes are available in 60ml (1.64 quarts), 250ml (6.87 quarts) and in Quart (26 quarts).
Email [email protected] for prices.
Instruction:
1] Spray direct and agitate with leather, nubuck or suede brush.
2] Dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on exposure severity.
3] Extract residues with dry absorbent towel.
4] Test for reduced bleeding or a satisfactory healthy squeaky clean.


As seen in this kit:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Kit-Ts.jpg
Leather Doctor® Tackiness Removal Kit-T.s

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[ajvee]

Thanks for the help Roger. What do I use the leather eraser for?

[Roger Koh]

Leather Eraser-4 is used to cause a friction rub to remove sticky substance without causing an abrasion to the leather finish.

An example of sticky substance would be gum like; e.g. chewing gum or sticky residue or unwanted age old conditioner or protector.

It is recommended to use especially prior to topcoating; like Topcoat Micro-72S or equivalent.

This eraser can be used with any of the cleaning product wet; or use dry to removed wick-up soiling that is still lodged within the leather pores; especially absorbent leathers.

Test it out prior to using it direct to experience how it response.

[MJN]

You still going to try and get the seats to take the Fatliquor? Or did I loose this somewhere in the steps and I got lost :D

[ajvee]

Guys,

I hope you are enjoying the weekend. I apologize for not updating the thread as we have had a snow storm and it hasn't been pleasant working in an unheated garage

1) Steering Wheel

I am unhappy to report that I've possibly done a bit of damage to the steering wheel. The right side was completely clean, but I was struggling to remove some of the prep 7.7 residue from the left side of the wheel. I spent about half hour today morning scrubbing the spot with the cleaner and the rinse using a combination of the horsehair brush, foam brush, and the leather eraser. Unfortunately, I scrubbed one portion of the wheel a bit too hard and it looks like the leather in that spot is ruined :(. It looks like the scrubbing has resulted in a little bit of bubbling in the leather, where the top surface looks like it has loosened up from the steering wheel. I guess it serves me right for overdoing it :mad: I will try to get some pictures, but this is the other frustrating part. The light is terrible in my garage and the outside is just too cold to work comfortably.

2) Driver's Seat

As of today, the driver's seat was soaking in the prep 7.7 for almost a week. The change wasn't really very dramatic, but I did notice a cleaner looking surface. I quickly did a couple coats of cleaner and rinse and called it a day on account of the weather. The steering wheel fiasco didn't help to motivate either :(. I think the cold is playing a big part in making this process difficult. I will re-visit the seat tomorrow for the hydration step. I will follow Roger's method of using the toilet paper and the shrink wrap to ensure maximum penetration.

I don't think the products work their best in the cold weather. For example, it is really difficult to wipe the products off the surface on account of them hardening a bit due to the temperature. Inadvertently, I ended up scrubbing the steering wheel too hard which resulted in the bubbling. On the bright side, I think the wheel is completely clean though :p

3) Gloves

I think my leather driving gloves are the biggest success story. After 2 days each of soaking in the hydrator and fatliquor, I soaked them for 2 days in the Scent B. Now they smell and feel great! I will get some pictures of them as well.

Roger - Any words of advice for the steering wheel will help if you have some idea of what the damage might be.

Pictures to come....

[Roger Koh]

Don't attempt to do any cleaning if the temperature is below 5 degrees C - we talk about earlier regarding the cool, warm and the hot temperature working range.

Over scrubbing the steering wheel? - Not a problem if you have the Topcoat Micro-72S.

Need to see good quality pictures - to guide you through - like a bridge over trouble water!

Maybe, let it be...until spring sun breaks it free!

Cheers!

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[ajvee]

Don't attempt to do any cleaning if the temperature is below 5 degrees C - we talk about earlier regarding the cool, warm and the hot temperature working range.

Over scrubbing the steering wheel? - Not a problem if you have the Topcoat Micro-72S.

Need to see good quality pictures - to guide you through - like a bridge over trouble water!

Maybe, let it be...until spring sun breaks it free!

Cheers!

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Thanks a lot for the support Roger! I did put on a layer of topcoat on the steering wheel today. I will really make it a priority to have some top quality pictures posted tomorrow.

[Roger Koh]

Any lumps you can feel with your finger tips can be work-out with fine 1500 sanding grit to a smooth touch in between coats with a simple hair dryer.

Do not over-do it - let's see some pictures if you need to go this route.

Since you have done it...do you like the level of sheen?

[ajvee]

The steering wheel and seat look great Roger. I had my friend take some top quality shots and I think he will be posting them on here soon. I've decided to take your advice and wait till fairer weather to continue with the rest of the process. In the meantime, my friend who took the pictures will be starting up a restoration on his BMW (I lent him my products). He is thinking about starting his own detailing company. He should post an introduction soon.

[Roger Koh]

Yes, your friend did email me and this is what he wrote:

“I'm amazed at these products' results on my car...and I had thought my leather was in perfect shape! Ha-ha.”

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[ajvee]

Yes, your friend did email me and this is what he wrote:

“I'm amazed at these products' results on my car...and I had thought my leather was in perfect shape! Ha-ha.”

Roger Koh
[email protected]


Oh yes! He loves the products! He is also a good photographer so he has taken some great pictures of both the progress in my car and the work that he has done on his car. So stay tuned for some great pictures

[BrianMN]

Oh yes! He loves the products! He is also a good photographer so he has taken some great pictures of both the progress in my car and the work that he has done on his car. So stay tuned for some great pictures

Here's some pictures of Anvar's steering wheel and side bolster.

[BrianMN]

Oh, and in my opinion ajvee's "damage" he made by scrubbing the steering wheel too hard was not nearly as dramatic as it sounds... I honestly couldn't notice it until he pointed it out to me, and then I had to look very closely, haha.

No worries:)

Here is a picture:

[Roger Koh]

This surface abrasion could be easily rectified with the Topcoat Micro-72S (satin); applied very thinly (simply using the lint-free towel that comes with the kit) let it dry (use hair dryer) and lightly sand with 1500 sanding girt in between the drying coats.

Tips
Never sand a raw leather direct - the more it is sand the rougher it becomes.
Instead sanding is to be only to the topcoat - when you see white powder is correct.

The next level of repairs is to use Impregnator-26; this is only to be used on abrasion that suede the leather to build back the smooth skin. So you know there is such a thing!


Roger Koh
[email protected]