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scuzy
08-27-2010, 10:32 AM
Roger

So My wife spill some tea on her car seat and now it's all dried up and hard to touch. Is there a way to remove the stain and get it back to original?

http://www.got-rice.com/test/seat%202.jpg
http://www.got-rice.com/test/seat%203.jpg

Thanks

Andy

Roger Koh
08-27-2010, 01:35 PM
Let’s go over the pictures…
1] Central panel is perforated (holes punch through thus makes non-absorbent leather absorbent).
2] White ring residue may come from the original fatliquor breaking bonds thus resulting in the stiffness of the leather that need to be replenished otherwise when the leather is compressed, stretched or flex it will develop cracks into the leather structure at the coarse breaks (creases). Or it could be the milk in the tea that may cause coagulation that contributes to the stiffness.
3] Darken marks may be the shine from the conditioner (unless we have the original untouched pictures to compare) or it could be tannin (plant color) from the tea.
4] See how liquid can wicked up through the seam up the side panel; even though the surface is non-absorbent (to restore the stain line hydrator has to reach further than the spilled tea to move the foreign colloid).
5] Looks like there are two scuffs at the edge of the cushion seat.

Possibility…
1] If tea is hot the original fatliquor leach out more – thus shrink and stiffen the leather more than if it is cold. If the fatliquor becomes spews and continues to come back as cloudy residue to the surface then using d'Spew-4.8 will stop it permanently.
2] If the tea is with milk – the protein in the milk coagulate that contributes to the overall stiffness (requires a leather protein removal to help using d’Protein-11.0)
3] Tea has its natural color – tannin that stain the leather darker (requires a leather tannin removal to help using d’Tannin-3.5).

Recommend cleaning process…
Surface Finish:
1] All surface contamination is to be removed to the original OEM leather finishes – using Prep-7.7.
2] Residues to be clean off – using Cleaner-3.8.
3] Acidifier rinse to the pH chemistry integrity of the leather to a healthy squeak – using Rinse-3.0.

Inspection:
Check for further removal with specialty removals where necessary – using d’Protein-11.0 or/and d’Tannin-3.5 as mentioned above.
When all surface stains are gone proceed to restore the leather structure (the thickness of the leather where the practical usage of the leather depends).

Structure Hydrating and Fatliquoring:
The following two processes are to hydrate and rejuvenate the leather back to its original suppleness with softness and strength.
1] Hydrate – using Hydrator-3.3
2] Fatliquoring (replenishing the original fat, oil and water) – using Fatliquor-5.0.

Structure penetrated stains can be further move and redistributed by hydrating the entire leather panel by following the path the tea took and beyond to the entire panel – this technique requires dwelling overnight with plastic see-through sheet (cling wrapper) to prevent evaporation and allowing a see through manipulation of the ring marks.

Inspection:
When all is dry and well; the next phase is to improve the tactile-feel of the finish.
Assuming the color is still in very good shape, to improve the roughness, a 1500 sanding paper is used to smoothen the finish feel and re-topcoat with Topcoat Micro-72S

Thereafter for the finishing touch a non-stick, rub-resistance protector with a buttery-feel that impart the classic leather scent is recommended – using Leather Scent-B.


My recommendation is what the original leather has gone through from the beast to beauty in a modern tannery – it’s generic!

No instant magic, but when done accordingly will produce magical result.

It is all logic with the facts of leather science and the art of practice.


If you think you can, I will be there in your every step to see you through!


Roger Koh
Leather DoctorŽ
[email protected]