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View Full Version : Pigmented (Mono-Tone) - How to Remove these Unknown, Possible Food Stain, Ink or Crayon from this Pigmented Leather Ottoman?



Jermaine
03-05-2010, 11:47 AM
#1.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/3-5-10100.jpg



#2. Unknown stain, possible food stain.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/3-5-10101.jpg



#3. Looks like ink or crayon.

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/3-5-10102.jpg

Roger Koh
03-06-2010, 02:53 PM
This leather looks Pigmented leather type.

It could be either the standard pigmented type that is non-absorbent – the stronger finish type.

Or it could be the finer micro-pigmented leather also known as semi-aniline which is semi-absorbent – the weaker finish type.

Caution on pigmented leather type stain remover is to avoid removing the finishes.

Using Stain Remover to match the types of stain to cause its suspension with as little an agitation as possible is the key to its successful removal.

It is certainly much easier to remove surface than penetrated stains.

And penetrated coagulated stains are the toughest especially from protein source.

Be prepared to Color and Topcoat Touch-up when dealing with penetrated stains!

All products have to be tested to ensure it will not remove the finishes, otherwise refinishing is certain.


>>> #2. Unknown stain, possible food stain.

There is the possibility of the presence of “Protein” in food stain, use d’Protein-11.0.


>>>#3. Looks like ink or crayon.

To remove the Grease composition of crayon stain first use Ink Remover-2.2 (aka Degreaser-2.2).

To remove the remaining ink or dye transfer stain, use Ink Remover-7.7 (aka Prep-7.7).

The below are the relevant products for removing the above stains.

Always test it out at a corner that it does not remove the finishes.

And follow up a little testing to see if the stain response prior to proceeding to remove the rest of the stains.

Roger Koh
Leather DoctorŽ



Leather DoctorŽ d’Protein-11.0: for all Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on and Woolskin leather types.
This is a pH 11.0 aqueous leather protein stain remover. It’s for removing blood, body-discharge, milk, cream, ice-cream, egg, meat juices, vomit, perspiration, urine and other protein based stains. And any staining that comes from a living animal or person will probably need this product in the removing process.
Removal System:
Urine stains: d’Protein-11.0 > d’Odor-4.5 > d’Urine-2.1 > Rinse-3.0 > d’Bacteria-3.7 > Scent-B.
Blood stains: d’Protein-11.0 > d’Tarnish-1.3 > Rinse-3.0.
Food stains with coloring like mustard and meat sauce: d’Protein-11.0 > d’Tannin-3.5 > Rinse-3.0.
Instruction:
1] Inspect and remove all caked and surface deposit prior to application.
2] Apply, agitate and extract with repetition until the stain is removed.
3] Neutralize appropriately to suite stain removal system with d’Urine-2.1, d’Tarnish-1.3, d’Tannin-3.5 or Acidifier-2.0 to a squeaky feel.
4] Rinse until rag shows clean to a healthy squeak – use Rinse-3.0.


Leather DoctorŽ Ink Remover-2.2 (a.k.a. Degreaser-2.2): for Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
This is a pH 2.2 high viscosity aqueous formulated Leather Ink Stain Remover for: Solvent based stains like permanent marker, paint and nail-polish. Oil and grease based stains like crayon, wax, lipstick and ballpoint ink. Dye-transfer stains like blue jeans, ink prints and newsprints.
Note:
There may be instances where the stain may not response as this product is design to limit damages to the leather finishes. Most solvent based stains contain three main ingredient; colorant, solvent and resin; of which the permanent marker is a good example. Colorant in markers contains micro-pigments which are insoluble coloring matter, making removal more difficult than the soluble grease based ballpoint ink. The solvent carrier is the one that cause direct damages to the leather finishes. The sticky resin component adds to the permanence of markers that makes removal almost impossible. Solvent based stains will somehow dissolve most leather finishes unless its finishes are solvent resistance formulated. The technique to remove these stubborn stains is to facilitate penetration, lubrication and suspension with gentle agitation. And bear in mind that Aniline leathers with its delicate topcoat need at least a matching topcoat refinishing. Non-absorbent Pigmented leathers may survive a salvage stain removal attempt but may also requires a matching topcoat refinishing. Nubuck leather types response better to these stains removal as there is no topcoat to worry about as the nap is simply renewed with nubuck Eraser-5. Penetrated stains can be further suspended by overnight dwelling with Ink Remover-7.7 on non-absorbent leathers or Ink Remover-4.4 on absorbent leathers. Bleaching with Bleach-10.3 is the last resort for non-absorbent leathers, while absorbent leathers are further worked through Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0.
Instruction:
1] Apply and agitate on stain to facilitate penetration, lubrication and suspension.
2] Extract suspended stains simultaneously with dry absorbent towel.
3] Then remove remaining residue with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky clean.

Leather DoctorŽ Ink Remover-7.7 (Prep-7.7): for Pigmented and other non-absorbent leather types.
This is a pH 7.7 aqueous thicker-than-honey leather ink stains remover for: Grease based ink stains like ballpoint ink. Water based ink stains like stamp pad ink. Dye transfer stains like blue jeans, ink prints and newsprints.
Note:
There may be instances where the stain may not response as this product is design to limit damages to the leather finishes. To remove solvent based ink stains like Permanent Marker – use Ink Remover-2.2. The types of ink stain will determine whether it is easy or difficult to remove from leathers. The safety aspect of removal will depend on leather absorbency, as non-absorbent leathers are the safest to remove from. Because stains stay on non-absorbent leathers unlike semi-absorbent and absorbent leathers that absorb the stains.
So it is more likely to remove the finishes along with the stains on these penetrated stains. Permanent markers are probably the most difficult to remove as it may contain the insoluble micro-pigment with sticky resin that adds to its permanency. It’s unlike the easier to remove ballpoint-ink with only soluble grease and ink. And it is easier to remove recent ink stains that are not completely dried out too. The method to remove these stubborn inks is to allow dwell-time for penetration, lubrication and suspension with gentle agitation. As finishes with poor wet rub fastness will suffer physical damages with too aggressive a rubbing. It is common to repeat several cycles of penetration, lubrication, suspension, agitation and extraction to remove those with carbon or micro-pigment component. However for stubborn ballpoint ink, it is wiser to let it dwell overnight to have the product works for you with a safer more effective satisfactory result. Bleaching dyes of aged old ballpoint ink stain is an option only for non-absorbent pigmented leather types with leather Bleach-10.3.
Instruction:
1] Let dwell 30 minutes or longer for stain suspension to occur.
2] Extract suspended soil before it dries with dry absorbent towel.
3] Let dwell overnight for those penetrated stains.
3] Remove sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8.
4] Acidify rinse with Rinse-3.0 until squeaky clean.