Too much darkening post treatment

[Krraley]

You guided me through the treatment of this cushion and it is complete except for top coat which I will skip as chair is being replaced. What can I do differently to have not so dark a result? I also want to know the best procedure to protect the new piece once it arrives.

[Roger Koh]

>>> What can I do differently to have not so dark a result?

This darkening result is the combination of Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > EffectWax-8.6 system.
Less amount of the system will produce a lighter result.
Another option is to stretch it to reduce the color saturation effect.
Exposure to UV lights will also lighten the color saturation.


>>> I also want to know the best procedure to protect the new piece once it arrives.

New is only new at the tannery, the primary and secondary structural conditioner is VOC (volatile organic compound).
Look at the clouds, just an analogy, the color saturation varies, depending on its percentage of water content too.

[Krraley]

Will I need to add the top coat or just stay with protect D on new piece or pieces that are not stained and only need minimal cleaning?

[Roger Koh]

The topcoat is optional, the Protector-D is recommended.

[Krraley]

The topcoat is optional, the Protector-D is recommended.

Hello, I started working on couch cushions with same leather as chair you assisted me with. I believed one area was stained from regular use(sweat/oil). After cleaning, they are had different look and feel when wet(not squeaky and greenish color). I followed with degreaser/acidifier/hydrator and I’m just not sure it’s completely ready to continue. After dry it is very dry and crispy and light colored. There is very dark/black surrounding the lighter area(looks veiny). I used eraser on dark areas and it helped some. It’s hard for me to know normal dark areas from staining that has surfaced. 1091010910

[Krraley]

I am now working on couch cushions. I’m having trouble deciding if I need to clean more or what to continue. I will try to attach pictures. I did a second cushion but did not use degreaser and it is fine. There are some dark places, but I can’t tell normal color variations from stains that have surfaced. Second cushion I continued with fat liquor. One won’t light area and surround darkness and very dry now I have not continued.

Kelley

[Roger Koh]

>>> I’m having trouble deciding if I need to clean more or what to continue.

The stain will need more Hydrator-3.3 to move it to the surface to be extracted.

Tips:

Use the lint-free paper towel, wet it out with Hydrator-3.3, and let it dry for a reverse transfer of the stain into the paper towel. Make sure no air bubbles.

When the stain is satisfactorily removed continue in this sequence Hydrator-3.3, Fatliquor-5.0, Wax Pull-up 8.6, Top Coat, and Protector-D.

Tips:

To avoid rings, wet out the entire surface with Hydrator-3.3.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Hello, I started working on couch cushions with same leather as chair you assisted me with. I believed one area was stained from regular use(sweat/oil). After cleaning, they are had different look and feel when wet(not squeaky and greenish color).

When leather does not have a squeaky feel, it is not healthy, it needs to be pH balanced and rinsed with Acidifier-2.0 until it produces a squeaky feel. The greenish color is most likely the fugitive chrome-tanning agent that breaks the hydrogen and resurfaces. Both (not squeaky and greenish color) are signs that the leather has denatured from alkaline overexposure. And is the first step to tackle before proceeding to the next step.


>>> After dry it is very dry and crispy

To restore this "very dry and crispy" will need to replenish the fat and oil with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 system.


>>> and light colored.

The dyestuff could also migrate out from the sweat alkaline overexposure, Acidifier-2.0 helps to charge the leather protein fiber ionic positive to stabilize dyestuff hydrogen bonding, When the entire surface of the cushion is hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 into the structure, it will help redistribute the dyestuff from the non-overexposure into this light colored areas. The lack of Fatliquor-5.0 and Wax Pull-up 8.6 is also the cause of light-colored areas.


>>> There is very dark/black surrounding the lighter area(looks veiny). I used eraser on dark areas and it helped some. It’s hard for me to know normal dark areas from staining that has surfaced.

From the picture, these are suspended stains within the leather structure waiting to resurface with the Hydrator-3.3 process.

If you like personal coaching via WhatsApp to work with you to achieve the best result, let me know.

[Krraley]

>>> Hello, I started working on couch cushions with same leather as chair you assisted me with. I believed one area was stained from regular use(sweat/oil). After cleaning, they are had different look and feel when wet(not squeaky and greenish color).

When leather does not have a squeaky feel, it is not healthy, it needs to be pH balanced and rinsed with Acidifier-2.0 until it produces a squeaky feel. The greenish color is most likely the fugitive chrome-tanning agent that breaks the hydrogen and resurfaces. Both (not squeaky and greenish color) are signs that the leather has denatured from alkaline overexposure. And is the first step to tackle before proceeding to the next step.


>>> After dry it is very dry and crispy

To restore this "very dry and crispy" will need to replenish the fat and oil with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 system.


>>> and light colored.

The dyestuff could also migrate out from the sweat alkaline overexposure, Acidifier-2.0 helps to charge the leather protein fiber ionic positive to stabilize dyestuff hydrogen bonding, When the entire surface of the cushion is hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 into the structure, it will help redistribute the dyestuff from the non-overexposure into this light colored areas. The lack of Fatliquor-5.0 and Wax Pull-up 8.6 is also the cause of light-colored areas.


>>> There is very dark/black surrounding the lighter area(looks veiny). I used eraser on dark areas and it helped some. It’s hard for me to know normal dark areas from staining that has surfaced.

From the picture, these are suspended stains within the leather structure waiting to resurface with the Hydrator-3.3 process.

If you like personal coaching via WhatsApp to work with you to achieve the best result, let me know.

This photo is after saturated with 8oz hydrator and left covered to dry, then used eraser and clean and rinse again. Not much difference. There was little color on dry paper towels.

[Krraley]

We are leaving for a vacation in a couple days so whatever I do next will have to wait. Is there any particular way I should leave the cushion while gone?

[Roger Koh]

You can leave it as it is.

I can see that the irregular shape stain has improved.

I also believe the dark color marks will diminish by pH balancing with Acidifier-2.0 and redistributing with Hydrator-3.3 to the entire cushion.

Most probably the dark colorings are the fugitive tanning agent that has broken the hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber.

[Krraley]

I was thinking I was not generous enough with the acidifier before you even said that and went back and re applied until I got a squeak and no green color(it took a lot!), hope I did enough. Should I hydrate and cover while gone(7 days), or is that too long?

[Krraley]

I was thinking I was not generous enough with the acidifier before you even said that and went back and re applied until I got a squeak and no green color(it took a lot!), hope I did enough. Should I hydrate and cover while gone(7 days), or is that too long?

As it is drying, there are still a lot of dark areas.

[Roger Koh]

>>> As it is drying, there are still a lot of dark areas.

Please show some pictures.
To move the suspended stain to the surface you will also need lots of Hydrator-3.3 to float them up and gently erased them off.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Should I hydrate and cover while gone(7 days), or is that too long?

Hydrate and covering without daily inspection may result in mold growth unless treated with Kill Mold-3.6.

[Krraley]

>>> Hello, I started working on couch cushions with same leather as chair you assisted me with. I believed one area was stained from regular use(sweat/oil). After cleaning, they are had different look and feel when wet(not squeaky and greenish color).

When leather does not have a squeaky feel, it is not healthy, it needs to be pH balanced and rinsed with Acidifier-2.0 until it produces a squeaky feel. The greenish color is most likely the fugitive chrome-tanning agent that breaks the hydrogen and resurfaces. Both (not squeaky and greenish color) are signs that the leather has denatured from alkaline overexposure. And is the first step to tackle before proceeding to the next step.


>>> After dry it is very dry and crispy

To restore this "very dry and crispy" will need to replenish the fat and oil with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 system.


>>> and light colored.

The dyestuff could also migrate out from the sweat alkaline overexposure, Acidifier-2.0 helps to charge the leather protein fiber ionic positive to stabilize dyestuff hydrogen bonding, When the entire surface of the cushion is hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 into the structure, it will help redistribute the dyestuff from the non-overexposure into this light colored areas. The lack of Fatliquor-5.0 and Wax Pull-up 8.6 is also the cause of light-colored areas.


>>> There is very dark/black surrounding the lighter area(looks veiny). I used eraser on dark areas and it helped some. It’s hard for me to know normal dark areas from staining that has surfaced.

From the picture, these are suspended stains within the leather structure waiting to resurface with the Hydrator-3.3 process.

If you like personal coaching via WhatsApp to work with you to achieve the best result, let me know.

I will attach the last picture post dwelling of hydrator, I have used eraser again and soaked and covered again. Should I do anything besides eraser between repeating(clean, rinse)?

[Krraley]

I’m on at least the 3rd round of hydration/extraction. I used the eraser like you said after the attached picture and covered. Is there something els I need to do between tries besides the eraser(clean,rinse)?

[Roger Koh]

The surrounding areas look like it is the fugitive tanning agent that has broken the hydrogen bonding from the leather protein fiber, due to the pH shift of the amphoteric leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve).

To revert back the leather pH value to ionic positive (+ve), a low pH rinse like Acidifier-2.0 will need to wet out the leather structure evenly without a dry line. While the entire wet out possibly to the reverse side. Do some hand slapping or massaging to move the fugitive tanning agent back into the leather structure.

Erasing will also help during wet for massaging and dry for removing surface residue.

Let's see how it goes . . .

[Roger Koh]

>>> Could you please send me a detailed step process, including tools and dwell time for my wax pull-up I’ve been working on. I am having to go back and search forums and product descriptions for good details. I know the steps, I’m just looking for details. Or where is the best place to find specifics on the site?

Leather Pro Cleaner-1.5
Leather Pro Cleaner-1.5 by Leather Doctor is a restorative cleaner to control leather reverting into rawhide, maintain leather suppleness and prevent dye bleeding.
https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-pro-cleaner-1-5/

Acidifier-2.0
Leather Acidifier-2.0 by Leather Doctor is a water-based pH 2.0 rinse and pH-balancer for alkaline damages manifest as marks, streaks, brightness, and tackiness.
https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-acidifier-2-0/

Hydrator-3.3
Leather Hydrator-3.3 by Leather Doctor is a relaxer conditioner cleaner used before and after fatliquor top-up conditioning to soften nubuck, leather, & suede.
https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-hydrator-3-3/

Fatliquor-5.0
Leather Fatliquor-5.0 by Leather Doctor is a leather-softening conditioner to restore and rejuvenate Vachetta, Nubuck, leather & suede, from dryness and stiffness.
https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-fatliquor-5-0/

Leather Wax Pull Up-8.6
Leather Wax Pull-Up-8.6 by Leather Doctor is a wax leather conditioner for restoring a diminishing wax pull-up effect lost through usage, aging, or cleaning.
https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-wax-pull-up-8-6/

Your questions are welcome!

[Krraley]

I have completely wetted the cushion with acidifier, the image has started drying. Honestly the subject area still feels much different than the surrounding area. It was very wet through to the back side. Will see how it looks after dry.

[Roger Koh]

>>> I have completely wetted the cushion with acidifier, the image has started drying.

Tips, working out the stain with a leather eraser and white cotton towel to extract the stain until the towel shows clean repeatedly will eventually move the stain off the surface of the leather.


>> Honestly the subject area still feels much different than the surrounding area.

Can you describe what it feels like?

[Krraley]

>>> I have completely wetted the cushion with acidifier, the image has started drying.

Tips, working out the stain with a leather eraser and white cotton towel to extract the stain until the towel shows clean repeatedly will eventually move the stain off the surface of the leather.


>> Honestly the subject area still feels much different than the surrounding area.

Can you describe what it feels like?

I believe it’s what you describe as slimy. I will take a dry picture later today, it changed for the better but still some very dark areas.

[Roger Koh]

>>> I believe it’s what you describe as slimy.

"Slimy" is an indication that the leather denatures due to alkaline overexposure.

Continuous Acidifier-2.0 (pH value 2) treatment will shift the 'feel' from 'slimy' to healthy 'squeaky' leather.

Healthy leather has a pH value of 3 to 5 when read with a pH meter.

[Krraley]

>>> I believe it’s what you describe as slimy.

"Slimy" is an indication that the leather denatures due to alkaline overexposure.

Continuous Acidifier-2.0 (pH value 2) treatment will shift the 'feel' from 'slimy' to healthy 'squeaky' leather.

Healthy leather has a pH value of 3 to 5 when read with a pH meter.

The first picture is completely dry(I got those random light spots this time, but overall result looks improved to me. The second and third picture is we again with acidifier, I wanted you to see the difference in the areas. That whole corner, including the portion of the side is where I had used the degreaser for what I suspected to be sweat/oil from head. When dry that area is extremely dry and hard. The darker areas seemed to massage out(1st picture). I was after that more sqeaky feel is why I went on with another round of acidifier. How do I know if the remaining dark areas are stain or just migrated dye.

[Krraley]

>>> I believe it’s what you describe as slimy.

"Slimy" is an indication that the leather denatures due to alkaline overexposure.

Continuous Acidifier-2.0 (pH value 2) treatment will shift the 'feel' from 'slimy' to healthy 'squeaky' leather.

Healthy leather has a pH value of 3 to 5 when read with a pH meter.

The first picture is completely dry(I got those random light spots this time, but overall result looks improved to me. The second and third picture is we again with acidifier, I wanted you to see the difference in the areas. That whole corner, including the portion of the side is where I had used the degreaser for what I suspected to be sweat/oil from head. When dry that area is extremely dry and hard. The darker areas seemed to massage out(1st picture). I was after that more sqeaky feel is why I went on with another round of acidifier. How do I know if the remaining dark areas are stain or just migrated dye. Also is that the green look you talk about?

[Roger Koh]

>>> The first picture is completely dry(I got those random light spots this time, but overall result looks improved to me.

These mysterious 'random light spots' are most likely fugitive fatliquor due to alkaline residue still within the leather structure or coldness that resurfaces. Continue applying Acififier-2.0 (pH 2.0) will pH balance the amphoteric leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to attract the ionic negative (-ve) fatliquor (fat and oil). Hydrator-3.3 follow-up will also help to redistribute the fugitive fatliquor to re-hydrogen bond with the protein leather fiber. If these light spots are fugitive fat, warming up slowly with a hair dryer will dissipate them. Do a test and let me know the result.


>>> The second and third picture is we again with acidifier, I wanted you to see the difference in the areas. That whole corner, including the portion of the side is where I had used the degreaser for what I suspected to be sweat/oil from head. When dry that area is extremely dry and hard.

The sweat/oil, especially the sweat when aged could have shifted alkaline and displaced or broken the hydrogen bond between the leather protein fiber and the fatliquor (fat and oil) causing them to migrate away from the alkaline overexposure center. When performing a degreasing process, it should be a five-step wet continuous system that includes Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 to avoid dryness and hardness when dry. To correct the dryness and hardness, work again with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3. The final last step of using Hydrator-3.3 is to ensure surface fatliquor residue is cleaned into or off the surface.


>>> The darker areas seemed to massage out(1st picture). I was after that more sqeaky feel is why I went on with another round of acidifier.

Darker soiling particulates are easily massaged, stretched, or erased with a Leather Eraser-4 to lighten the appearance.


>>> How do I know if the remaining dark areas are stain or just migrated dye.

The remaining dark areas could be a combination of suspended soiling particulates or fugitive tanning agents (if you detected it slimy with wet fingers). Dyes if any will be picked up with a white cotton towel and will show brown instead. Apply Acidifier-2.0 and you will see less of the dyestuff being picked up with a wet cotton towel test.


>>> Also is that the green look you talk about?

The green is the 'fugitive tanning agent', more treatment of Acidifier-2.0 will reduce the green look.


Show more pictures of the progress!

[Krraley]

>>> The first picture is completely dry(I got those random light spots this time, but overall result looks improved to me.

These mysterious 'random light spots' are most likely fugitive fatliquor due to alkaline residue still within the leather structure or coldness that resurfaces. Continue applying Acififier-2.0 (pH 2.0) will pH balance the amphoteric leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to attract the ionic negative (-ve) fatliquor (fat and oil). Hydrator-3.3 follow-up will also help to redistribute the fugitive fatliquor to re-hydrogen bond with the protein leather fiber. If these light spots are fugitive fat, warming up slowly with a hair dryer will dissipate them. Do a test and let me know the result.


>>> The second and third picture is we again with acidifier, I wanted you to see the difference in the areas. That whole corner, including the portion of the side is where I had used the degreaser for what I suspected to be sweat/oil from head. When dry that area is extremely dry and hard.

The sweat/oil, especially the sweat when aged could have shifted alkaline and displaced or broken the hydrogen bond between the leather protein fiber and the fatliquor (fat and oil) causing them to migrate away from the alkaline overexposure center. When performing a degreasing process, it should be a five-step wet continuous system that includes Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 to avoid dryness and hardness when dry. To correct the dryness and hardness, work again with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3. The final last step of using Hydrator-3.3 is to ensure surface fatliquor residue is cleaned into or off the surface.


>>> The darker areas seemed to massage out(1st picture). I was after that more sqeaky feel is why I went on with another round of acidifier.

Darker soiling particulates are easily massaged, stretched, or erased with a Leather Eraser-4 to lighten the appearance.


>>> How do I know if the remaining dark areas are stain or just migrated dye.

The remaining dark areas could be a combination of suspended soiling particulates or fugitive tanning agents (if you detected it slimy with wet fingers). Dyes if any will be picked up with a white cotton towel and will show brown instead. Apply Acidifier-2.0 and you will see less of the dyestuff being picked up with a wet cotton towel test.


>>> Also is that the green look you talk about?

The green is the 'fugitive tanning agent', more treatment of Acidifier-2.0 will reduce the green look.


Show more pictures of the progress!

One wet picture again, I feel like the green color and slimy feel are improving or corrected. The dry pictures are without me rubbing dark places out. The one light spot is from a very light pressure with hand.

[Roger Koh]

>>> One wet picture again, I feel like the green color and slimy feel are improving or corrected.

Besides, the white random spots (fugitive fat or leather spew) from the original fatliquor are also corrected and disappear.


>>> The dry pictures are without me rubbing dark places out. The one light spot is from a very light pressure with hand.

Stretching and working with leather Eraser-4 helps improve the darkening appearance. Up to now, the main effort has been to remove or correct the darkening appearance. Once satisfied the leather structural integrity or pH neutral of the leather is restored with Acidifier-2.0. Relaxing the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3, replenishing or reconditioning leather suppleness or softness with Fatliquor-5.0, and replenishing or reconditioning the leather fashion pull-up effect with Wax Pull Up-8.6. Restoring the natural protective gloss top coat with Aniline Top-76G. The final routine maintenance protection is with Leather Protector-D or Protector-D'plus with a classic leather scent to charm.

11006
Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Topcoat Refinishing Kit Aw6.tc
https://leatherdoctor.com/aniline-wax-pull-up-leather-topcoat-refinishing-kit-aw6-tc/

[Krraley]

>>> One wet picture again, I feel like the green color and slimy feel are improving or corrected.

Besides, the white random spots (fugitive fat or leather spew) from the original fatliquor are also corrected and disappear.


>>> The dry pictures are without me rubbing dark places out. The one light spot is from a very light pressure with hand.

Stretching and working with leather Eraser-4 helps improve the darkening appearance. Up to now, the main effort has been to remove or correct the darkening appearance. Once satisfied the leather structural integrity or pH neutral of the leather is restored with Acidifier-2.0. Relaxing the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3, replenishing or reconditioning leather suppleness or softness with Fatliquor-5.0, and replenishing or reconditioning the leather fashion pull-up effect with Wax Pull Up-8.6. Restoring the natural protective gloss top coat with Aniline Top-76G. The final routine maintenance protection is with Leather Protector-D or Protector-D'plus with a classic leather scent to charm.

11006
Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Topcoat Refinishing Kit Aw6.tc
https://leatherdoctor.com/aniline-wax-pull-up-leather-topcoat-refinishing-kit-aw6-tc/

1103111031

I am on the second round of hydrator and fat liquor. What if I decide I am still not happy with ph? I’m just not sure it’s right and I’m afraid to go on to wax.

[Krraley]

I’m attaching more pictures, I’m not satisfied with appearance. Is this as good as I can expect or should I do something els. I really don’t like that area in the close up picture. This is after a lot of massaging and stretching. 11033

[Krraley]

11034

This is close picture

[Roger Koh]

>>> I am on the second round of hydrator and fat liquor.

Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0 system is for softening the leather when dry and may be repeated to satisfaction.


>>> What if I decide I am still not happy with ph? I’m just not sure it’s right and I’m afraid to go on to wax.

The darkening appearance could be fugitive tanning agents and further treatment with Acidifier-2.0 deep into the leather structure will help the pH balancing, again the treatment can be repeated until satisfaction. The wax pull-up conditioning can wait until appearance and softness are achieved.


>>> I’m attaching more pictures, I’m not satisfied with appearance. Is this as good as I can expect or should I do something else?

I believe this appearance comes from under the surface where foreign contamination is not fully purged out, The process can be repeated with Degreaser 2.2 and Acidifier 2.0 systems.


>>> This is after a lot of massaging and stretching.

The main purpose of massaging and stretching is to produce a softer leather. Surface soiling particulates are also partly removed. A more effective procedure for improving the surface appearance of resurfaced soiling particulates is by erasing with leather Eraser-4.

[Krraley]

>>> I am on the second round of hydrator and fat liquor.

Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0 system is for softening the leather when dry and may be repeated to satisfaction.


>>> What if I decide I am still not happy with ph? I’m just not sure it’s right and I’m afraid to go on to wax.

The darkening appearance could be fugitive tanning agents and further treatment with Acidifier-2.0 deep into the leather structure will help the pH balancing, again the treatment can be repeated until satisfaction. The wax pull-up conditioning can wait until appearance and softness are achieved.


>>> I’m attaching more pictures, I’m not satisfied with appearance. Is this as good as I can expect or should I do something else?

I believe this appearance comes from under the surface where foreign contamination is not fully purged out, The process can be repeated with Degreaser 2.2 and Acidifier 2.0 systems.


>>> This is after a lot of massaging and stretching.

The main purpose of massaging and stretching is to produce a softer leather. Surface soiling particulates are also partly removed. A more effective procedure for improving the surface appearance of resurfaced soiling particulates is by erasing with leather Eraser-4.


I’m getting frustrated with this whole process that seems like I will never get it right! I repeated the degreaser and acidifier and feel like I can not get rid of the slimy feel. I ran out of acidifier, so just ordered some more which take a while to come in so more frustration! I was hoping to be done with this project by next weekend as I have people coming over. Really feeling like I would have spent less on hiring someone than all the product I have purchased. I think I was able to remove some more soiling unless it was dye. The color on the towels looks like the dye color.

[Krraley]

I’m attaching a picture of a different cushion. I thought I was finishing with last coat of hydrator. What could be causing the light spots.1106011060

[Krraley]

11061

Same cushion. It also feels rough to the touch in places. It’s only visible when wet. I didn’t see it when I was doing first hydrator or fat liquor, I did notice it was difficult to wet. I saw it the next morning after wetting with hydrator again. It’s pretty diffuse throughout cushion, more on ends. This is a cushion that no one hardly even sits in.

[Krraley]

[QUOTE=Krraley;39731]11061

Same cushion. It also feels rough to the touch in places. It’s only visible when wet. I didn’t see it when I was doing first hydrator or fat liquor, I did notice it was difficult to wet. I saw it the next morning after wetting with hydrator again. It’s pretty diffuse throughout cushion, more on ends. This is a cushion that no one hardly even sits in. Looks a little like leopard spots when the light hits it just right.

[Roger Koh]

>>> I repeated the degreaser and acidifier and feel like I can not get rid of the slimy feel.

>>> I think I was able to remove some more soiling unless it was dye. The color on the towels looks like the dye color.

Try having a light spray with Çlean 3.0 brush it and rinse deep soak into the structure wet with Acidifier 2.0 to determine what causes this slimy feel.
This process may help improve both of the above issues. Remember this leather is absorbent, and whatever has been absorbed before has to be suspended and pH balanced to the surface during the wet towel extraction and dry soil removal.

[Roger Koh]

>>> I’m attaching a picture of a different cushion. I thought I was finishing with last coat of hydrator. What could be causing the light spots.

Could possibly be a pH issue of some unknown alkaline liquid used in the past now manifests as such side effects. Leather has a pH value of 3 to 5. Any liquid beyond this leather neutral pH range will denature the leather. These light spots may be fugitive fat that breaks hydrogen bonds from the fatliquor, known as 'fatty spew'. Fatty spew is commonly observed when the leather has gone through a cold, warm, cold journey during shipping from China to the USA in containers. Fatty spewing is also commonly observed during winter times when the leather store in the garage appears white.

Since there is no change in temperature causing these leopard spots it is possibly the pH issue.

Can I know your room temperature during the day and during the night?

A combination with Hydrator 3.3 followed by Acidifier 2.0 treatment is the most logical route to go.

When these leopard spots remain on a dry surface, you may need this
11062
https://leatherdoctor.com/clean-spew-4-8/

[Roger Koh]

>>> It also feels rough to the touch in places.

A rough surface is most likely a grain issue and a top coat issue.
Roughness due to grain deteriorating is smooth with Adhesor 73
11063
https://leatherdoctor.com/adhesor-73/

which becomes a smooth grain.
Roughness due to the topcoat deteriorating that also loss of its original gloss requires refinishing with Aniline Top 76
11064
https://leatherdoctor.com/aniline-top-76g/

[Krraley]

>>> It also feels rough to the touch in places.

A rough surface is most likely a grain issue and a top coat issue.
Roughness due to grain deteriorating is smooth with Adhesor 73
11063
https://leatherdoctor.com/adhesor-73/

which becomes a smooth grain.
Roughness due to the topcoat deteriorating that also loss of its original gloss requires refinishing with Aniline Top 76
11064
https://leatherdoctor.com/aniline-top-76g/

The room temp remains 72-74. The piece sets facing away from windows(have high efficiency glass), there is a gas fireplace near by but it is not ran a lot. I have only used your clean 3.8 and rinse 3.0, hydrator/fat liquor, wax and protect d. This whole process only one time since new.

[Krraley]

Any towel extraction or just brush, soak with acidifier again and allow to dry?

[Roger Koh]

Any towel extraction or just brush, soak with acidifier again and allow to dry?

Apply and brush in to saturate, suspended soiling particulates wicks to the surface to be towel extracted until towel shows clean. Repeat treatment and extraction until towel shows clean.
When this repeated process ends determine how much foreign contamination has been absorbed in the past no one knows, some contamination is unknown and forgotten, and some are using unsafe liquid. Even water from the drinking faucet or tap is certainly not safe on leather. The reason is the pH of average drinking water is 7 and the pH neutral of leather is 3 to 5, the leather denatures and manifests in various forms of side effects.

[Krraley]

Hello and Merry Christmas.111691117011168111691117011168

The images are of the cushion we discussed with the leopard spotting and roughness. It was time for Christmas and I had to have places to sit so I finished the cushion with wax effect and protect D. It is not smooth and buttery like it should be. I will send a close picture so hopefully you can help me decide what next, you had said aniline top or or adhesor. My gut says to try the aniline top but I was afraid to try something and it not work out and I didn’t have time for another disaster. For reference I included a non treated cushion that sits beside the one in question, I think it will also have the roughness. The 2 are both near a window and a gas fireplace. Fireplace is not ran often and couch faces away from window but still I think both had something to do with the problem. The cushions are extremely lightly used! Another cushion oriented perpendicular did not have the roughness, nor did the stained one I am still dealing with. I will send a separate reply to lessen confusion. 11171

[Roger Koh]

Recommendation to solve the surface roughness and achieve a smooth buttery feel is as follows:

Step-1
Protector D has to be removed to prevent a peeling issue with Adhesor 73.
1* Degreaser 2.2 to degrease followed by Acidifier 2.0/Rinse 3.0 as rinse.

Step-2
Adhesor 73 is used to seal the surface roughness.
1* Adhesor 73 is scrubbed with a white 3M nylon pad to remove surface conditioners down to the leather grain.
2* Excess is extracted with a lint-free towel.
3* Fine sanding with 1000/2000 grit for surface smoothness.

Step-3
Aniline Top 76G is used to finish the surface with a gloss luster to satisfaction.
1* Use a folded lint-free towel or a varnishing brush for professional results.
2* Blow dry in between coats and ensure proper drying before the next coating.
3* A light touch coating with a varnishing brush reduces dragging or unwanted streaks.
4* Sanding if necessary for extra smoothness in between coats.

Step-4
Protector D or Protector D Plus the leather scent version is applied with a foam brush, lint-free folded towel, or varnishing brush.
1* Apply, blow dry, and is ready for use.

[Krraley]

Recommendation to solve the surface roughness and achieve a smooth buttery feel is as follows:

Step-1
Protector D has to be removed to prevent a peeling issue with Adhesor 73.
1* Degreaser 2.2 to degrease followed by Acidifier 2.0/Rinse 3.0 as rinse.

Step-2
Adhesor 73 is used to seal the surface roughness.
1* Adhesor 73 is scrubbed with a white 3M nylon pad to remove surface conditioners down to the leather grain.
2* Excess is extracted with a lint-free towel.
3* Fine sanding with 1000/2000 grit for surface smoothness.

Step-3
Aniline Top 76G is used to finish the surface with a gloss luster to satisfaction.
1* Use a folded lint-free towel or a varnishing brush for professional results.
2* Blow dry in between coats and ensure proper drying before the next coating.
3* A light touch coating with a varnishing brush reduces dragging or unwanted streaks.
4* Sanding if necessary for extra smoothness in between coats.

Step-4
Protector D or Protector D Plus the leather scent version is applied with a foam brush, lint-free folded towel, or varnishing brush.
1* Apply, blow dry, and is ready for use.

That sounds a bit scary!

[Roger Koh]

You should practice on a hidden reverse side of one of the cushions to gain confidence before you do the front.
That will put your fear away in exchange for a satisfactory smile.
Do not follow blindly.
Perhaps you would want to ask more in-depth reasons why this approach is logically correct before you even practice out.
You can rely on my hindsight, I have done it.

[Krraley]

The steps above don’t include the fat liquor/wax effect steps, that will go after adhesor?

[Roger Koh]

Have you completed "the fat liquor/wax effect steps" already?

Adhesor 73 is after the "fat liquor/wax effect steps!

[Boris]

This seems like quite the restoration! How is it going so far?

[Krraley]

This seems like quite the restoration! How is it going so far?

I do not have any degreaser left to work on the rough cushion. It has been 3-4 months so will clean 3.8 with acidifier be enough to remove protect d. I also rinse/soaked with acidifier and that is the pic attached. This was the spotted cushion. It does not show spots when dry. Is there anything els I should do to address the spotting before I continue with adhesor?
11358

[Krraley]

This is cushion I’m about to give up on. It started I believe stained with sweat/head oil. I have done everything you have suggested. Last was multiple soaks with cleaner/acidifier as suggested. I was thinking acidifier again as it doesn’t have the squeak feel when wet. I just don’t know. It feels hard/stiff in that upper right quadrant and along the front half.

[Krraley]

Image 50 is in reference to 34,35,36 and 43. 43 contains a non-treated cushion as well(top image), image with both cushions, the left is treated.

Image 51 is in reference to 5,6,9,17,20,24,27,28, 30, and 31

[Roger Koh]

Reference to your Post #50.

>>> It does not show spots when dry.

Alright!

Show us a picture that does not show spots when dry, please!

[Roger Koh]

About your Post #51

>>> It feels hard/stiff in that upper right quadrant and along the front half.

Am I right that the cushion is dry already?

We will do a physical treatment to improve suppleness before a redo with a chemical treatment to improve appearance.

Find a stainless steel tablespoon, and work out inch by inch with deep slow, and forceful stretching techniques without causing surface damage, to lighten up dark spots and hard/stiff surfaces. Show pictures halfway to see any contrasting differences.

[Krraley]

About your Post #51

>>> It feels hard/stiff in that upper right quadrant and along the front half.

Am I right that the cushion is dry already?

We will do a physical treatment to improve suppleness before a redo with a chemical treatment to improve appearance.

Find a stainless steel tablespoon, and work out inch by inch with deep slow, and forceful stretching techniques without causing surface damage, to lighten up dark spots and hard/stiff surfaces. Show pictures halfway to see any contrasting differences.

Cushion is dry and ok

[Krraley]

Attaching finished picture in reference to pic 50.

[Krraley]

This looks like a greasy head stain to me, hopefully this comes out easier! It is on the couch back toward the bottom. I’ll start with degreaser when I can get it.