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View Full Version : Aniline (Sauvage) - Restore faded brown aniline furniture.



pristine
02-09-2010, 08:58 AM
This is my latest set, it consists of 2 chairs and 1 sofa. I hope to use the two chairs at an upcoming trade show (restore one to let people see the before & after). I will need to order a quart of brown aniline dye. I would prefer translucent over transparent. This is a reddish brown though not as red as your stock red brown dye. There is no deck tag nor any extra material. Can you come close?


#1
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline001.jpg


#2
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline002.jpg


#3
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline003.jpg


#4
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline004.jpg


#5
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline004.jpg


#6
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline006.jpg
IMG]http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline007.jpg[/IMG]

Roger Koh
02-09-2010, 09:15 PM
Turnover and remove the staples of the dust cloth, you may get quarter to half inch beyond the staples.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

pristine
02-17-2010, 12:36 PM
After letting the Prep-7.7 have a few minutes dwell time the old finish just rolled right off with the leather Eraser-4.
It seemed to help to let it dry a little to create more drag then the Eraser-4 just pulled it right off.:D

#1
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline2001.jpg


#2
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline2002.jpg



Other areas were more difficult to get the product to penetrate through and so I incorporated the Razor-60 & sanding.
#3
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline2006.jpg


This is how it looked after hydration & fatliquoring. After I use the Eraser-4 again does it look ready for dye?
#4
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline2007.jpg


#5
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline2008.jpg



On one of the arms I can still see what looks like cracking. The leather feels soft and supple. Do I need to use Impregnator-26 and Bond-3D to strenghten this area?
#6
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline2009.jpg



This shows the top of the back cushion. Do I need to sand with 1500 grit to reduce roughness?
#7
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline2012.jpg


#8
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/FadedBrownAniline2011.jpg

Roger Koh
02-17-2010, 03:16 PM
>>>This is how it looked after hydration & fatliquoring. After I use the eraser again does it look ready for dye?
#4

When you use Rinse-3.0 immediately following Fatliquor-5.0 to work the surface fatliquor into the leather structure the end dry result would be less patchy without the blotchiness.
Since it is dry you can use Hydrator-3.3 to evenly wet it and extract clean with absorbent rag to even out the appearance.


>>>On one of the arms I can still see what looks like cracking. The leather feels soft and supple. Do I need to use impregnator and bond to strengthen this area?
#6

It looks like this is a borderline case, Impregnator-26 may be use without the leather Bond-3D (too heavy) with Aniline Pure-21 (be aware of the darkening effect Impregnator-26 may produce, if the darkening effect is lighter than your intend color, go for it).


>>>This shows the top of the back cushion. Do I need to sand with 1500 grit to reduce roughness?
#7

There is no end to sanding Aniline Top Grain leathers, the deeper you sand the rougher it becomes.
Just lightly remove the obvious roughness and leave the sanding to the in-between sanding during either your Aniline T’parent-27 or Topcoat Aniline-79G application (This recommendation will help you keep the beauty of the leather grain more intact).

pristine
02-18-2010, 08:52 AM
Thanks for your help. As soon as you get the color swatch I need to place an order and have it processed & sent ASAP. My deadline is next Friday.

pristine
02-25-2010, 01:47 PM
Feeling really scared:(

Worrying about what happened to waxed aniline (how streaky it was).

So the back looked a little streaky after some dying and I tried to do what you said to his problem & wet sand with hydrator.

Well it balled up the color and scratched circles on the leather.

The color seems off.

I started adding a darker color to help compensate.

I feel doomed at this point.


#1
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/redye006.jpg


#2
The front edge of the seat cushion.
The finish was still in good condition so I just lightly sanded.
Now the dye is absorbing only in those areas.
Should have I tried to remove it all, if so how, the Prep seems to only loosen old fininsh not finish that is still in good condition.


http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/redye005.jpg


#3
Does this look ready for top coat or will it look awful?
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/redye004.jpg


#4
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/redye003.jpg


#5
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/redye002.jpg

Roger Koh
02-25-2010, 03:37 PM
>>>Feeling really scared
>>>Worrying about what happened to waxed aniline (how streaky it was).

The infused wax in the leather structure is the cause of this streaky problem.

Adhesor-73 needs to be applied prior to coat-dyeing with Aniline T’parent Dye-27.

Aniline Dye-21 would be a poor choice for trying to stain the leather evenly.


>>>So the back looked a little streaky after some dying and I tried to do what you said to his problem & wet sand with hydrator.

Which Dyestuff you used 21, 25 or 27?


>>>Well it balled up the color and scratched circles on the leather.

What grade of sandpaper do you use and do you have a speed control oscillating sander (very low speed to imitate hand sanding)?


>>>The color seems off.

Topcoat Aniline-79G is the determine result of the color – it can pull the color as much as 25% (so if the dye color on the leather crust is paler, is not a concern at the moment).
My suggestion would to use a cotton swab and go over the leather crust with Topcoat Aniline79G to determine the final outcome of color.


>>>I started adding a darker color to help compensate.

There is a problem when you are getting too near and the topcoat gives you a leap over what you expect.


#2
>>>The front edge of the seat cushion.
>>>The finish was still in good condition so I just lightly sanded.
>>>Now the dye is absorbing only in those areas.

Which Dye 21, 25 or 27?


>>>Should have I tried to remove it all, if so how, the Prep seems to only loosen old finish not finish that is still in good condition.

Sometimes even Razor-60 will not remove good condition finishes (Always try a test removing on these good condition finish).
That is why you need Aniline T’parent Dye-27 to coat-dye it.


#3
>>>Does this look ready for top coat or will it look awful?

You can see the difference wear of the finishes.
And practically it is very difficult to remove all the good condition finishes especially the non-wear inner areas.
I would reduce the difference to the best practicality without using any solvent remover (cause blotchiness as the solvent disperse the dye unevenly).
And test finish it by a 1 – 2” wide strip from the front to the back.

1] Adhesor-73 – foam brush it and blow dry (this block the wax contact with the coating-dye Aniline T'parent-27).
2] Aniline T’parent Dye-27 – airbrushes and pads it to even out the spray.
3] Topcoat Aniline-79G - airbrushes and pads it to even out the spray.

Let’s see some pictures!