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View Full Version : Aniline (Sauvage) - 15yr old aniline furniture commercial use.



pristine
02-01-2010, 09:39 AM
A local lodge asked me to restore this 15 year old set of furniture. The main complaint is the color difference. The luv seat & one sofa cushion are redder than the rest.
To me the first issue is all the soil and staining. Is leather prepClean a good way to start? How do I know which to use (4.4 or7.7)?
I mentioned to you earlier about another company's strong cleaner and removers. In the past I used the strong cleaner and maybe a light remover to remove heavy soil. In this instance does prepClean do the job or something else?


#1
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/100_0390.jpg


#2
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/100_0391.jpg



#3
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/100_0392.jpg


#4
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/100_0393.jpg


Notice this last photo the top coat is cracking. I know you recommend sanding and scrapping. Do I do this before or after the rehydration process?
http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/Pristine_Leather/100_0394.jpg

Roger Koh
02-01-2010, 11:17 AM
Prep-7.7 is a stronger more effective prep cleaner design for pigmented leathers.

So far most of the posting here have use Prep-4.4 for absorbent aniline leathers follows by Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 with good result.

Penetrated oil and grease will be more effective with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 to reduce bleeding from alkalinity especially from body stain armrest.

Note the suffix product numbers indicate the pH value of the cleaning products.

As a leather-safe system it strengthen the chemistry integrity of the leather protein collagen fibers more cationic (+) to hydrogen-bond with the other anionic (-) leather constituents like dyes, preservatives, fatliquors, tanning agents, etc.

This system is better than the “strong cleaner and removers” combination.
Strong cleaner has a pH value of 6.5 – 8.5; a pH neutral is not a leather neutral (pH 3-5) that will weaken the hydrogen-bonding of the leather constituents and in the long run denatures the leather structure.
“Remover” is the makeup of these solvent products – Acetone, Ethyl Alcohol and Methyl Alcohol to weaken the finish to be removed. Unless remove totally becomes a weak base for new finishes. Using solvent or alcohol affects the fatliquor in the leather structure thus makes the leather stiffer and may develop cracks sooner than not using any solvent to remove at all.

Topcoat cracking is removed immediately after Rinse-3.0 while the leather is still wet.
Wet removal using leather Razor-60 is much more effective as you can see the color contrast – dark areas are without any topcoat while the lighter areas need to be surgically shave-off. Wet sanding to even out the appearance assures even appearance when Topcoat Aniline-79G is reapplied at the final “dry process”.

However, when the deteriorated topcoat is removed evenly, let it dry for inspection to see all the stains gone otherwise repeat the stain and deteriorated finishes removing process.

Then comes the hydrating with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0.

Inspection, then ready to re topcoat to finish it as the “leather rejuvenating” process with Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 would have reactivated the dyestuff to the surface.

But you have the color difference to solve – easier to use “coating” Aniline T’parent-27 than the “staining” Aniline Pure-21.

We are still improving what we already know best!

What do you think?

And don’t forget to take pictures of every step to share with us.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

pristine
02-08-2010, 11:54 AM
Sounds good. I am still not clear on the proper method of removing the old top coat. I don't want to damage the leather. I wish you had video of the proper use of the razor. This is the first time I have heard of wet sanding. How are you doing that?

Roger Koh
02-09-2010, 01:57 PM
Here are a few examples of the “Wet Green Removal Process”.

The wet process ends with Fatliquor-5.0.

All the physical removal can be used in conjunction with any products up to the fatliquoring process.

The leather structural is strongest at the fatliquoring stage, so for very fragile and delicate leather surface I would do the shaving at this stage with rinsing the residue off with Leather Rinse-3.0.

Well, shoot me with more questions?


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

#1 – Leather Razor-60 and Leather Cleaner-3.8 is used to remove old and deteriorated leather finishes prior to refinishing.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/0074.jpg

#2 – The shaving process.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/0102.jpg

#3 – The close-up views.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/022-1.jpg

#4 – The work-in-progress.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/0534.jpg

#5 – Wet sanding with a low speed sander.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/096-1.jpg

#6 – Wet Erasing with Leather Eraser-4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/1353.jpg

pristine
02-11-2010, 06:56 AM
I have a hard time finding 1000 to 1500 grit sand paper. I go to the local Carquest auto refinishing dealer. Are you using paper or some other material for sanding?

Roger Koh
02-11-2010, 10:48 AM
Used standard wet & dry sand disc (5" diameter I think) to fit your speed control sander. Let me know if you need some to try it out - 1000, 1200 & 1500.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

pristine
02-15-2010, 08:23 AM
This process is amazing! That Prep-7.7 works so well! Where do you buy your sanding pads from. I get my sandpaper from a local auto paint supply/dealer.

Roger Koh
02-15-2010, 10:24 AM
Please show us some of your amazing work with this new found prep system!

Supplies stores that sells sander usually would carry the wet sanding disc.

Email [email protected] if you need them with your order.


Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®